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The 

St.  Lawrence  River 

Historical —  Legendary — Picturesque 


By 


George  Waldo   Browne 

Author  of  "Japan  :  The  Place  and  the  People,''  "  Paradise  of  the  Pacific  ' 
"  Pearl  of  the  Orient,"  »'  Wood-Ranger  Tales,"  etc. 


j82.3d> 


G.  P.  Putnam's  Sons 

New  York   and   London 

Ube  IknicherbocMer  press 

1905 


\8'S.;53 


Copyright,  1905 

BY 

G.  P.  PUTNAM'S   SONS 


Ube  Itntcfterbochcr  prese,  t\ew  jpotft 


3? 


To 

SIR  jAiMES  Mcpherson  LeMoine,  d.c.l. 

THIS  VOLUME  OF 

THE  STORIED  ST.  LAWRENCE 

IS  MOST  RESPECTFULLY   INSCRIBED 

BY  THE  AUTHOR 


Preface 

WHILE  the  St.  Lawrence  River  has  been  the 
scene  of  many  important  events  connected 
with  the  discovery  and  development  of  a 
large  portion  of  North  America,  no  attempt  has  before 
been  made  to  collect  and  embody  in  one  volume  a  com- 
plete and  comprehensive  narrative  of  this  great  water- 
way. This  is  not  denying  that  considerable  has  been 
written  relating  to  it,  and  some'  of  this  told  in  an 
interesting  and  painstaking  manner,  but  the  various 
offerings  have  been  scattered  through  many  volumes, 
and  most  of  these  have  soon  become  inaccessible  to 
the  general  reader.  Sir  J.  M.  LeMoine,  F.R.S.C,  of 
Quebec,  who  has  done  so  much  to  give  the  St.  Law- 
rence place  in  the  literature  of  Canada,  says  of  this 
noble  river  : 

It  lies  for  a  thousand  miles  between  two  great  nations,  yet 
neglected  by  both,  though  neither  would  be  so  great  without  it, — a 
river  as  grand  as  the  La  Plata,  as  picturesque  as  the  Rhine,  as  pure 
as  the  Lakes  of  Switzerland.  .  .  .  The  noblest,  the  purest, 
most  enchanting  river  on  all  God's  beautiful  earth  .  .  .  has 
never  yet  had  a  respectable  history,  nor  scarcely  more  than  an 
occasional  artist  to  delineate  its  beauties. 

The  writer  of  this  volume  has  undertaken  as  far  as 
he   could   in  a  single  work,   to   present  a  succinct  and 


VI 


Preface 


unbroken  account  of  the  most  important  historic  inci- 
dents connected  with  the  river,  combined  with  descrip- 
tions of  some  of  its  most  picturesque  scenery  and  frequent 
selections  from  its  prohfic  sources  of  legends  and  tradi- 
tions. He  has  not  hoped  to  treat  so  vast  a  subject  fully 
in  one  volume,  but  he  trusts  that  he  will  meet  the  expec- 
tations of  the  majority.  In  writing  a  work  of  this  kind 
the  difficulty  has  not  been  in  finding  sufficient  material, 
but  rather  it  has  been  in  the  selection  of  those  matters 
which  most  closely  concerned  the  subject  in  hand. 
Thus,  he  has  felt  obliged  to  pass  over  in  silence,  or 
describe  hastily,  many  scenes  that  appear  to  deserve 
greater  recognition.  It  does  not  seem  practicable  to 
make  a  continuous  narrative  in  a  work  of  this  kind,  but 
this  plan  has  been  followed  as  nearly  as  possible,  and  at 
the  same  time  to  give  an  intelligent  account  of  the 
incidents  in  their  order.  When  and  where  orig-inal 
documents  and  papers  have  not  been  available  for 
consultation,  only  the  best  authorities  have  been  ac- 
cepted and  then  not  without  comparison  with  others. 
It  is  hoped  that  but  few  errors  have  crept  in,  while  it 
must  be  borne  in  mind  that  no  two  historians  ever 
exactly  agree  on  the  local  history  of  a  place. 

The  author  wishes  to  acknowledge  his  indebtedness 
to  the  numerous  persons  whose  works  have  proved 
especially  valuable  to  him  in  his  study  of  the  subject. 
Among  these  it  is  a  pleasure  to  mention  Cartier's  Brcf 
Rdcit,  Champlain's  Narratives,  Jesuit  Relations,  Haldi- 
mand   Papers,   Colden's  Iroquois  Nation,  Prof.   Grant's 


Preface  vii 

Picturesque  Canada,  Willis's  Canadian  Scenery,  Charle- 
voix's History  of  Canada,  The  Johnson  Journals,  MSS. 
of  M.  Fere,  Winsor's  Cartier  to  Frontenac,  Haddock's 
Picturesque  St.  Lawrence,  LeMoine's  Maple  Leaves, 
Parkman's  Pioneers  of  France  in  the  New  World,  and 
many  others,  besides  those  credited  from  time  to  time 
in  the  following  pages,  not  forgetting  the  numerous 
fugitive  articles  that  have  materially  assisted  him.  He 
also  wishes  to  record  his  appreciation  of  the  valuable 
assistance  given  him  by  his  friends  who  have  so  gener- 
ously lent  their  aid  in  securing  data  which  was  not 
always  easy  to  obtain. 

In  producing  the  hundred  illustrations  that  accom- 
pany the  work  care  has  been  taken  to  give  as  wide  a 
scope  as  possible  to  the  views  belonging  to  the  river. 
In  this  department  many  thanks  are  due  to  the  artists 
and  photographers  for  their  efforts  toward  making  the 
work  attractive  and  interesting.  The  thanks  of  the 
publishers  are  due  the  Department  of  the  Interior  at 
Ottawa  for  a  plan  of  the  river. 

G.  W.  B. 


Contents 


CHAPTER  I 

PAG* 

From  Lake  to  Gulf i 

Physical  and  Picturesque  Features  of  Canada's  Remarkable  River  — 
Fifty  Miles  of  Islands —  Scenery  of  "  Les  Mille  lies  "  —  A  Hundred 
Miles  of  Rapids— Shooting  the  Rapids^— The  Bright  Path  of  Peril 
— Romantic  Montreal — Twin  Rows  of  Towns — Historic  Quebec — 
Long  Miles  of  Tide-Water — Then  Out  to  Sea  ! 

CHAPTER  II 
In  the  Wake  of  Cartier  .......       15 

His  Voyages  of  Discovery — Planting  the  Cross  at  Gaspe — From  Gulf  to 
River — Scenery  along  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence. 

CHAPTER  III 
The  Lower  St.  Lawrence 25 

The  Oldest  Town  in  America — Legend  of  Perce  Rock — A  Glimpse  of 
the  Saguenay — Cartier  Reaches  Stadacone,  the  Original  Quebec. 

CHAPTER  IV 

The  Primitive  Capital  of  Canada  .....       34 

Cartier  Keeps  up  the  River  to  Hochelaga — Ascends  Mount  Royal  — 
Description  of  the  Stronghold  of  the  Amerinds — Returns  to  France 
— Coming  of  Roberval — His  Failure  —  Romance  of  the  Isle  of 
Demons. 

CHAPTER  V 
The  Coming  of  Champlain         ......       50 

New  Interest  in  France  for  America — Beginning  of  the  Fur-Trade — 
Champlain,  Pontgrave,  and  De  Monts  Appear  on  the  Scene  —  The 
Lost  Colonists — Settlement  of  St.  Croix — First  Blows  for  Quebec. 


X  Contents 

CHAPTER  VI 

PAGE 

Founding  of  Quebec 61 

Champlain's  First  Expedition  against  the  Iroquois  —  Discovers  Lake 
Champlain — Scenery — Situation  of  the  Five  Nations — Rout  of  the 
Mohawks — Afifairs  at  Quebec — The  Rival  Factors. 


CHAPTER  VII 
From  Fur-Trade  to  Commerce 75 

Cardinal  Richelieu  and  his  Hundred  Associates — First  Surrender  of 
Quebec  to  the  English — Comparison  of  the  Settlements  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  Valley  to  those  of  Massachusetts  Bay — Trade  TroubTST" 
Licrease — Founding  of  Three  Rivers — Death  of  Champlain — His 
Character — The  Great  Company  Make  Concessions — Laziness  De- 
nounced— Fisheries — Lack  of  Pilots — Early  Shipbuilding — Fairs — 
Suppression  of  Knowledge — Ladies  of  Quebec — First  Newspaper 
in  Canada — First  Steamship  to  Cross  the  Atlantic  —  Commerce  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  To-day. 


CHAPTER  Vni 

The  Wilderness  Missions  .......       95 

Four  Recollet  Priests  Come  to  Quebec  —  Were  Explorers  as  well  as 
Missionaries — First  Missions  —  Encouragement  of  Agriculture  — 
Recollets  Forced  to  Abandon  their  Work — Taken  up  by  the  Jesuits 
— Work  Interrupted  by  the  English — Westward  from  the  Ottawa — 
The  Thessaly  of  Olden  Canada — The  Huron  Missions  —  The  Mis- 
sion of  the  Martyrs — College  Established  at  Quebec. 


CHAPTER  IX 
The  Beginning  of  Montreal 107 

Founders  of  the  Ursuline  Convent  in  Quebec  —  Maisonneuve,  the 
Champlain  of  Montreal — The  Heroines  of  Ville-Marie — A  Canadian 
Regulus — The  Holy  Wars  of  Early  Montreal. 


Contents  xi 

CHAPTER   X  ♦ 

PAGE 

Spartans  of  Canada 123 

The  Story  of  Daulac  and  his  Heroic  Band,  every  Man  of  whom  Died 
for  New  France — How  Twenty-two  Heroes  Held  Seven  Hundied 
Iroquois  Warriors  at  tiay. 

CHAPTER  XI 
The  Heroic  Period 136 

La  Salle  and  his  Associates  — Talon,  the  First  Intendant — Frontenac 
— The  Great  Council  with  the  Iroquois — Laval  Restored  to  the  Epi- 
scopate— Maids  of  Quebec — First  Ship  upon  Lake  Erie — Fate  of 
La  Salle — Frontenac  Recalled — Treachery  of  Denonville — Massacre 
at  La  Chine — Return  of  Frontenac — His  "Winter  Raids" — Phips's 
Expedition — Death  of  Frontenac. 

CHAPTER  XII 

Bushrangers  and   Vovageurs    .         .         .         .         .         .162 

The  Coureurs  dc  Bois — A  Unique  Canadian  Character — Their  Dress 
and  Habits — The  Voyageurs — Rangers  of  Romance — Personal  Ap- 
pearance— Their  Roving  Natures — Rowing  Songs — Story  of  Cadieux 
— His  "  Lament" — Revelry  at  the  Rendezvous — Homeward  Bound. 

CHAPTER  XIII 
When  Quebec  Fell 174 

Situation  under  Frontenac's  Successors — Infamous  Conduct  of  Bigot 
and  Others  —  Declaration  of  W^ar,  1756 — Arrival  of  Montcalm — 
His  Early  Victories — Driven  back  to  Quebec — Wolfe  and  his  Army 
Reach  Isle  of  Orleans — Siege  of  Quebec  —  Wolfe's  Famous  Path  to 
the  Plains  of  Abraham — The  Battle — Rout  of  the  French — Wolfe 
and  Montcalm  Shot — Scenes  that  Followed. 

CHAPTER  XIV 
Under  the  New  Regime 192 

Second  Battle  of  the  Plains— Surrender  of  Montreal  —  Conquest 
Closes  at  Pontchartrain — Result — Campaign  of  1775-76 — Fall  of 
Montgomery — Arnold's  Retreat — The  "  Hungry  Year" — Heroism  of 
the  Canadians  at  Chateauguay — Naval  Fight  on  Lake  Champlain 
— Victory  of  McDonough — Hard  Blow  to  the  English — End  of  War 
of  1812-15 — Result  of  this  War  to  Canada — Important  Periods  in 
History — Final  Union  of  the  Provinces. 


xii  Contents 

CHAPTER  XV 

PAGB 

The  Mysterious  Saguenay 212 

Tadousac  of  Historic  Interest — First  Mission  here — The  Old  Church 
— The  Fur-Trade — The  Cavern  River — Sixty  Miles  of  Mountain 
Walls — Ha-Ha  Bay — Chicoutimi — Lake  St.  John — "The  Grand 
Discharge  " — Falls  of  Ouiatchouan — Cape  Eternity. 

CHAPTER  XVI 
Up  from  Tadousac         . 224 

The  Mission  of  the  Montagnais — Story  of  the  Last  Missionary — Rivihe 
du  Loup — Murray  Bay — Giant  of  Cap  aux  Corbeaux — Earthquake 
of  1663 — A  Vivid  Scene — Isle  of  Hazels — A  Legion  of  Mountains 
— First  Mass  in  Canada — Bale  St.  Paul — Gouffre — Nature  Asleep 
and  Awake. 

CHAPTER  XVII 

Between  Cap  Tourmente  and  Beauport    ....     234 

Where  Art  and  Nature  Meet — A  Climax  in  Mountains — The  Island  of 
Sorrow — Legend  of  Crane  Island — Chateau  Le  Grande — Prisoner 
of  the  Jealous  Wife — Cartier's  Isle  of  Bacchus — Ancient  Petit 
Cap — Divine  Ste.  Anne — Canadian  Mecca — Story  of  the  Saint — A 
Bird's-Eye  View  of  Beauport — Falls  of  Montmorency. 

CHAPTER  XVIII 
Picturesque  Quebec      . 248 

A  Peopled  Cliff — The  Lower  Town — A  Spiral  Street — Cape  Diamond 
— The  Citadel — A  Relic  of  Bunker  Hill — Rare  Panorama  of  Country 
— Memorable  Trip  of  Major  Fitzgerald — His  Unhappy  Love  Ro- 
mance— "Ribbon  Farms" — Scene  of  Cartier's  "White  Winter" 
— Two  Acres  of  Clover,  Daisies,  and  Buttercups — Road  to  Charles- 
bourg — Chateau  de  Beaumanoir — Ruins,  Flowers,  and  Vines — His- 
toric Names — Story  of  the  Acadian  Maid— Old  Fortress — Its  Secret 
Passage — Plains  of  Abraham. 

CHAPTER  XIX 
Sights  and  Shrines  of  Quebec     ......     260 

Monuments  to  Wolfe,  Montcalm,  and  "Aux  Braves" — Ste.  Foye 
Road — Mount  Ilermon — Cliateau  St.  Louis — Portraits  of  Celebrities 
— Chateau  Frontenac — "The  Golden  Dog" — Story  of  M.  Phillibert 
— University  of  Laval — "Notre  Dame  des  Victoires" — Graves  of 
Richelieu  and  Laval — A  Winter  Niijht — Lauiihter  and  Good  Cheer. 


Contents  xiii 


CHAPTER  XX 

PAGS 

From  Quebec  to  Montreal 269 

North  Bank — Sillery — Indian  Settlements  in  the  St.  Lawrence  Valley 
— St.  Francis  —  St.  Regis  —  Three  Rivers  —  Poetical  Names — An 
Atmosphere  of  Age  —  Peasant  Population  —  Three  Types  —  Early 
Farmhouses — The  Harvest  Festival — Christmas-tide — A  True  Son 
of  Old  Normandy. 

CHAPTER  XXI 
The  Region  of  Rivers 285 

The  Chaudiere  Valley — Watershed  of  Northern  New  England  — 
Falls  of  the  Chaudiere — Eastern  Townships — As  Seen  by  the  Early 
Voyagers — A  Primeval  Picture — Feathered  Denizens  of  the  Woods 
— Noble  Old  Trees— Memory  of  Cartier's  Men— Lake  St.  Peter — 
Town  of  St.  Francis — St.  Francis  River — An  Old-Time  War-Trail 
— Rogers's  Raid — The  Loyalists — Yamaska — A  Vista  of  Mountains 
— The  Richelieu  Valley  —  Extract  from  an  Old  Journal — Saintly 
Names — A  Ghostly  Bivouac. 


CHAPTER  XXn 
Canada's  "  White  City  " 300 

Oldest  Town  on  the  St.  Lawrence  —  Victoria  Bridge — Helen's  Island 
— "All  's  Lost  but  Honour" — History  and  Tragedy — First  Steamer 
on  the  St.  Lawrence  — Churches — Notre  Dame  —  Great  Bell — Mid- 
night Mass — The  Devil  and  the  Wind — Grave  of  le  Rat — Recollet 
Gate — Public  Parks — Terrible  Fate  of  the  Four  Iroquois  Brothers 
— Noted  Homes  —  Chateau  de  Ra.mezay  —  Scene  of  Momentous 
Events — Hallowed  by  the  Presence  of  Famous  Men — Old  Kitchen 
— Portrait  Gallery — Future  of  Montreal. 


CHAPTER  XXHI 
Climbing  the  Rapids   ........     323 

The  White  Steamer — Hardships  of  the  Early  Portages — "  Roads  of 
Iron  " — La  Chine  Canal — Nature  Outwitted  —The  Place  of  Captives 
— Lake  St.  Louis — The  Ottawa — Once  a  Part  of  the  Great  River 
— Lake  St.  Francis — Sunset  on  the  River — Cornwall — Crossing  the 
Line — St.  Regis  —  Its  Historic  Bell  —  First  Steamer  to  Run  the 
Rapids — How  it  was  Done — Prescott — Ancient  Landmarks — Grave 
of  Barbara  Heck  —  "Patriot  War" — Ill-starred  Adventures — The 
Fenian  Insurrection. 


xiv  Contents 

CHAPTER  XXIV 

PAGB 

The  Gateway  to  the  West 338 

Mission  of  La  Presentation  —  Ogdensburg  —  Brockville — Romance  of 
the  Thousand  Islands — A  Daughter's  Devotion  to  a  Father — Carle- 
ton  Island — "Lost  Channel" — Memory  of  a  Bonaparte — Origin  of 
the  Feud  between  the  Iroquois  and  the  Algonquins — Legend  of  the 
League  of  the  Five  Nations — Tradition  of  Hiawatha — Cooper's 
"Station  Island"  —  Gananoque — "  The  Place  of  the  Deer" — A 
Poet's  Tribute — Kingston,  the  Limestone  City — Conclusion. 

Index 355 


Illustrations 


View  of  Quebec,  Lower  Town 


Frontispiece 


Modern  Attractions  of  the  Thousand  Islands 

From  a  photograph  by  W.  Notman  &  Son,  Montreal. 

Long  Sault  Rapids 

From  a  drawing  by  W.  H.  Bartlett. 

Shooting  the  La  Chine  Rapids 

From  a  photograph  by  W.  Notman  &  Son,  Montreal. 

View  of  the  City  of  Quebec 

Portrait  of  Jacques  Cartier 

From     B.     Suite's    Histoii-e   des    Canadiens-Francais    (Montreal 
iSS2-'34). 

The  Voyage  of  Jacques  Cartier  to  Canada,  1534    . 

From  an  old  print. 


Gaspe  Basin 

Perce  Rock 

Riviere  du  Loup  Falls 

Cartier's  Visit  to  Hochelaga,  1535    . 

From  an  old  print. 

Cartier  on  His  Way  up  the  St,  Lawrence  River 

^L\^•OR  DE  Cartier,  St.  Malo        .... 

Samuel  De  Champlain  ..... 

From  the  O'Niel  copy  of  the  Hamel  Painting. 

A  Squall  on  Lake  St.  Peter        .... 

From  a  drawins;  bv  ^Y.  H.  Bartlett. 


12 
16 


26 
28 
32 
34 

40 

5^ 
58 


xvi  Illustrations 

PAGR 

Old  Fort  Chambly 64 

From  a  drawing  by  W.  H.  Bartlett. 

The  Champlain  Monument,  Quebec 72 

From  a  photograph  by  Livernois,  Quebec. 

The  St.  Louis  Gate,  Quebec 76 

From  a  photograph  by  Livernois,  Quebec. 

The  French  Flag  in  the  Time  of  Champlain     ...       82 

Scene  on  the  Jacques  C artier  River  ....       86 

Habitation  de  Quebec 92 

From  Champlain's  Works,  rare  Paris  ed.  of  1613. 

Chateau   St.  Louis  (1694-1834),    Destroyed  by  Fire   in 

1834  96 

The  Rapids  Above  the  Cedars 100 

From  a  drawing  by  W.  H.  Bartlett. 

The  Indian  Village  of  Caughnawaga        ....     104 
From  a  photograph  by  W.  Notman  &  Son,  Montreal. 

Portrait  of  Marie  Guyard  (Mere    Marie  de   L'Incar- 

nation) 108 

From  B.  Suite's  Histoire  des  Canadiens-Fran^ais. 

Portrait  of  Maisonneuve 116 

Ibid. 

The  Junction  of  the  Ottawa   and   the   St.  Lawrence 

Rivers 126 

From  a  drawing  by  W.  H.  Bartlett. 

Grandmere  Rock,  St.  Maurice  River  ....     130 

Portrait  of  Laval,  First  Canadian  Bishop      .         .         .     136 

Ibid. 

La  Salle  House,  Lower  La  Chine  Road,  Montreal         .     138 

From  a  photograph  by  W.  Notman  &  Son,  Montreal. 

A  Summer  Scene  on  the  Shore  of  Lake  Memphremagog        144 

From  a  photograph  by  W.  Notman  &  Son,  Montreal. 
Portrait  and  Autograph  of  Cavalier  De  La  Salle         .     148 

From  B.  Suite's  Histoire  des  Canadiens- Francois. 


Illustrations 


XVll 


Frontenac      

From  Hebert's  Statue  at  Quebec. 

View  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  from  Citadel,  Quebec 

From  a  photograph  by  Livernois,  Quebec. 

St.  Patrick's  Hole,  St.  Ferreol 

From  a  photograph  by  Livernois,  Quebec. 

The  St.  Lawrence  River  IN  Winter 

Portrait  of  Montcalm 

From  B.  Suite's  Histoire  des  Canadiens-Fran^ais. 

The   Louisbourg  Gun  in  the  Yard  of  the  Chateau  de 
Ramezay,  Montreal       .... 

From  a  photograph  by  W.  Notman  &  Son,  Montreal 

Cap  Rouge 

Major-General  James  Wolfe       ... 
Montmorency  Falls      .... 

From  a  photograph  by  Livernois,  Quebec. 

The  Citadel,  Quebec,  from  Parliament  Building 

From  a  photograph  by  Livernois,  Quebec. 

In  THE  Days  of  the  Pioneers 

From  a  drawing  by  W.  \\.  Bartlett. 

The  Old  Tadousac  Church 

A  Group  of  Montagnais  Indians 

From  a  photograph  by  Livernois.  Quebec. 

The  Little  Saguenay  .... 
From  a  photograph  by  Livernois,  Quebec. 

Ouiatchouan  Falls       .... 

Pointe-a-pic,  Murray  Bay    . 

Cap  Tourmente  (St.  Joachim) 

St.  John's  Church,  Isle  of  Orleans    . 

From  a  photograph  by  Livernois,  Quebec. 

Bonne  Ste.  Anne — Old  Church 

From  a  photograph  by  Livernois,  Quebec. 


PAGE 

160 
164 

176 

180 
184 

196 


204 

212 

214 

218 

222 
226 
234 
240 

242 


XVIU 


Illustrations 


Cape    Diamond,    Showing   Tablet   to   the    Memory   of 
Montgomery    

From  a  photograph  by  Livernois,  Quebec. 

The  Break-neck  Steps,  Quebec    .... 
Natural  Steps,  Montmorency  River  , 

From  a  photograph  by  Livernois,  Quebec. 

The  Ruins  of  Chateau  Bigot       .... 

A  Distant  View  of  the  Jacques  Cartier  Monument 

The  Golden  Dog 

From  a  photograph  by  Livernois,  Quebec. 


Sillery  Cove 


A  French  Canadian  Farmer 

From  a  photograph  by  Livernois,  Quebec. 

A  French  Canadian  Homestead  (St.  Prime) 
Chaudiere  River 


Chaudiere  Falls    ....... 

From  a  photograph  by  Livernois,  Quebec. 

A  Toss-up.     A  Form  of  Canadian  Sport.     . 

From  a  photograph  by  W.  Notman  &  Son,  Montreal. 

A  Spill  on  the  Toboggan  Slide  .... 

The  Ice  Palace,  Montreal,  1885 

Dominion  Square,  Montreal       .... 

From  a  photograph  by  W.  Notman  &  Son,  Montreal. 

View  of  Montreal  from  Mount  Royal 

From  a  photograph  by  W.  Notman  &  Son,  Montreal. 

The  Chateau  de  Ramezay,  Montreal 

From  a  photograph  by  W.  Notman  &  Son,  Montreal. 

Kitchen  in  the  Chateau  de  Ramezay,  Montreal 
From  a  photograph  by  W.  Notman  &  Son,  Montreal. 

Victoria  Square,  Montreal         .... 

From  a  photograph  by  \V.  Notman  &  Son,  Montreal. 


Illustrations  xix 


PAGE 


An  Old  Windmill  on  Lower  La  Chine  Road,  Montreal    324 

From  a  photograph  by  W,  Notman  &.  Son,  Montreal. 

The  Methodist  Church  at  Prescott  ....     334 

Founded  by  Barbara  Heck.      Her  grave  is  marked  by  a  cross. 

The  Old  Windmill  at  Prescott 3^6 

View  of  the  Thousand  Islands  from  Devil's  Oven  .         .     340 

From  a  photograph  by  W.  Notman  &  Son,  Montreal. 

Below  THE  "Rift,"  Thousand  Islands        ....     346 

From  a  photograph  by  W,  Notman  &  Son,  Montreal. 

Among  the  Thousand  Islands 350 

From  a  photograph  by  W.  Notman  &  Son,  Montreal. 
Map  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River  ....         a/  end 


SIA 

ItC3  HjSlCSLiSS,  CEl';. 


The  St.  Lawrence  River 


Chapter  I 

From  Lake  to  Gulf 

/S2.33 

Physical  and  Picturesque  Features  of  Canada's  Remarkable  River — Fifty  Miles  of 
Islands — Scenery  of  "  Les  Mille  lies" — A  Hundred  Miles  of  Rapids — 
Shooting  the  Rapids — The  Bright  Path  of  Peril — Romantic  Montreal 
— Twin  Rows  of  Towns — Historic  Quebec — Long  Miles  of  Tide-Water 
— Then    Out    to  Sea  !  ' 

RIVERS  play  an  important  part  in  the  history 
of  a  country.  They  reflect  more  clearly  the 
character  of  the  settlers  than  any  other  natu- 
ral boundary.  They  were,  in  truth,  the  one  divid- 
ing line  acknowledged  by  the  American  aborigines, 
and  by  them,  as  a  rule,  the  limitations  of  the  tribes  be- 
came fixed,  so  far  as  it  was  possible  for  a  people  with 
unwritten  laws  to  establish  their  domains.  Along  the 
banks  of  these  unmapped  streams  clustered  their  conical 
tents ;  here  they  held  their  councils  of  war ;  here  they 
celebrated  their  festivals  of  peace  ;  here  they  fished  and 
hunted ;  here  they  staked  their  fates,  and  won,  and 
lost.  These  streams  became  their  main  highways  of 
travel.     Along   their   sedgy   courses   they   sped    their 


2  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

lio-ht  canoes,  leavinor  in  their  wake  no  stone  disturbed, 
no  twig  turned,  and  scarce  a  ripple  upon  the  surface  of 
the  water.  The  same  boulders  and  smaller  stones  that 
strewed  the  pathway  of  the  earliest  voyager  remaiAed 
in  the  path  of  the  last.  Upon  reaching  the  fountain- 
head  of  a  river  recourse  was  had  to  a  land  journey 
to  the  nearest  water,  the  craft  which  had  been  their 
means  of  transit,  as  well  as  their  rude  "baggage," 
borne  on  their  shoulders  over  the  intervening  portage, 
known  for  this  reason  as  a  "carrying-place." 

Upon  the  advent  of  the  white  man  these  rivers  again 
became  the  natural  paths  of  the  explorers,  their  banks 
the  homesteads  of  the  pioneers ;  later,  the  sites  for 
cities  builded  through  the  industries  arising  from  the 
mills  and  manufactories  whose  power  was  furnished  by 
their  waterfalls.  Thus,  in  many  ways,  they  became 
closely  identified  with  the  progress  of  civilisation. 

The  history  and  description  of  a  river  should  be 
written,  it  would  seem,  by  starting  at  its  fountain-head 
and  following  its  course  to  that  larger  body  of  water 
where  it  yields  its  life  and  treasures.  Unfortunately 
for  this  purpose,  the  tide  of  human  events  runs  counter 
to  the  current  of  most  rivers,  and  the  storied  St.  Law- 
rence is  no  exception.  If  this  is  true  the  series  of  inci- 
dents that  have  helped  form  its  history  will  be  better 
comprehended  after  an  outline  of  its  natural  career 
from  lake  to  gulf ;  each  rapid,  lakelet,  rocky  bluff,  and 
tributary,  having  a  double  interest  when  linked  with  its 
ancient  and  now   silent  glory,   is  the  story  of  human 


From  Lake  to  Gulf  3 

achievement,  some  deed  of  heroism,  sacrifice,  or  suffer- 
ing endured  by  the  brave  race  that  led  the  way  along 
its  trackless  aisles  bordered  by  mighty  forests. 
p  The  St.  Lawrence  River,  in  its  most  limited  bounds, 
begins  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Ontario,  opposite  the  city 
of  Kingston,  and  flows  generally  in  a  north-easterly 
direction  about  750  miles,  when  its  flood  mingles  with 
that  of  the  gulf  by  the  same  name.  Treated  in  a 
more  extended  manner,  according  to  the  ideas  of  the 
early  French  geographers,  and  taking  either  the  river 
and  lake  of  Nipigon,  on  the  north  of  Superior,  or  the 
river  St.  Louis,  flowing  from  the  south-west,  it  has  a 
grand  total  length  of  over  two  thousand  miles.  With 
its  tributaries  it  drains  over  four  hundred  thousand 
square  miles  of  country,  made  up  of  fertile  valleys 
and  plateaux  inhabited  by  a  prosperous  people,  desolate 
barrens,  deep  forests,  where  the  foot  of  man  has  not 
yet  left  its  imprint. 

Seldom  less  than  two  miles  in  width,  it  is  two  and 
one-half  miles  wide  where  it  issues  from  Ontario,  and 
with  several  expansions  which  deserve  the  name  of  lake 
it  becomes  eighty  miles  in  width  where  it  ceases  to  be 
considered  a  river.  The  influence  of  the  tide  is  felt  as 
far  up  as  Lake  St.  Peter,  about  one  hundred  miles  above 
Quebec  and  over  five  hundred  miles  from  the  gulf, 
while  it  is  navigable  for  sea-going  vessels  to  Montreal, 
eighty  miles  farther  inland.  Rapids  impede  navigation 
above  this  point,  but  by  means  of  canals  continuous  com- 
munication is  obtained  to  the  head  of  Lake  Superior. 


4  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

If  inferior  in  breadth  to  the  mighty  Amazon,  if  it 
lacks  the  length  of  the  Mississippi,  if  without  the 
stupendous  gorges  and  cataracts  of  the  Yang-tse-Kiang 
of  China,  if  missing  the  ancient  castles  of  the  Rhine,  if 
wanting  the  lonely  grandeur  that  still  overhangs  the 
Congo  of  the  Dark  Continent,  the  Great  River  of 
Canada  has  features  as  remarkable  as  any  of  these.  It 
has  its  source  in  the  largest  body  of  fresh  water  upon  the 
globe,  and  among  all  of  the  big  rivers  of  the  world  it  is 
the  only  one  whose  volume  is  not  sensibly  affected  by 
the  elements.  In  rain  or  in  sunshine,  in  spring  floods 
or  in  summer  droughts,  this  phenomenon  of  waterways 
seldom  varies  more  than  a  foot  in  its  rise  and  fall.  By 
this  statement  it  should  not  be  understood  that  the 
river  maintains  every  year  the  same  depth  of  water,  as 
from  other  causes  it  varies  somewhat.  One  of  the  his- 
torians of  its  upper  section,  Mr.  J.  A.  Haddock,  says: 

The  level  of  the  river  differs,  one  year  with  another,  the  extreme 
range  being  about  seven  feet.  These  changes  are  not  the  immediate 
effects  of  the  excessive  rains,  such  as  cause  floods  in  other  rivers, 
but  appear  to  be  occasioned  by  the  different  quantities  of  rain  fall- 
ing, in  some  years  more  than  in  others,  and  which  finds  its  way 
down  months  afterwards.  A  series  of  several  years  of  high  water, 
and  others  of  low  water  are  known  to  have  occurred.  The  level  of 
the  river  is  also  affected  by  strong  prevailing  winds,  blowing  up  or 
down  the  lake,  and  several  instances  of  rapid  fall,  followed  by  a  re- 
turning wave  of  extraordinary  height,  have  been  reported. 

While  favoured  with  America's  Great  Lakes  as  the 
reservoir  from  which  to  draw  its  supply,  the  St.  Law- 
rence has  not  been  niggardly  treated  in  the  offerings  of 
tributary  streams,  some  of  which  are  themselves  noble 


From  Lake  to  Gulf  5 

rivers,  the  largest  being  the  Ottawa  and  Saguenay. 
Hundreds  of  streams,  many  of  them  deserving  the 
designation  of  river,  come  winding  down  from  the  region 
of  the  northland,  or  from  the  great  watershed  of  the 
south.  Canada  is  a  country  of  canons  and  waterfalls, 
and  the  streams  that  seek  the  St.  Lawrence  run  tortuous 
races  before  they  reach  the  parent  river.  Some  come 
tipped  up  edgewise,  like  the  mysterious  Saguenay ; 
others  come  flattened  like  the  Montmorency,  rolled  so 
thin  that  the  sunlight  breaks  through  ;  but  one  and  all 
roll  and  tumble,  toss  and  twist,  and  wear  the  white  veil 
of  mist.  Beside  Canada,  New  England,  with  her  rivers 
and  mountains,  must  be  content  to  take  a  second  place 
in  the  matter  of  waterfalls. 

Where  the  great  Laurentian  chain  of  mountains, 
running  from  east  to  west  across  Canada,  swings  south- 
ward to  enter  Northern  New  York,  it  drops  a  link,  as  it 
were,  so  as  to  allow  the  last  of  the  big  lakes  an  outlet  in 
the  channel  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  which  moves  slug- 
gishly among  the  thousand  islands  helping  to  form  the 
most  picturesque  archipelago  in  the  world,  its  nearest 
rival  being  that  other  section  of  lakes  and  islands,  Fin- 
land. The  actual  number  of  the  islands  of  this  Lake  of 
the  Thousand  Isles  is  really  nearer  two  thousand, 
though  this  discrepancy  would  not  be  noticed  by  the 
new-comer  into  this  enchantino-  realm.  Nor  can  it 
matter  greatly  to  the  daily  voyager,  as  he  threads  the 
winding  passages  of  the  interior,  or  glides  along  the 
broader  way  leading  into  the  American  channel.      This 


6  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

was  the  old  Indian  trail,  and  along  this  course  followed 
the  adventurous  Champlain,  who  was  the  first  white  man 
to  gaze  upon  this  entrancing  scene. 

Leaving  the  city  of  Kingston,  which  stands  upon 
the  site  of  that  frontier  town,  Cataraqui,  with  its  Mar- 
tello  towers  and  decidedly  military  appearance,  the 
course  of  modern  travel  leads  to  the  lively  American 
town,  Clayton,  noted  as  a  summer  resort.  Below  this 
thriving  village,  island  after  island  studding  the  placid 
lake  rises  into  view,  the  finger-tips  of  the  great  moun- 
tain range.  On  one  of  these  larger  isles  is  located 
the  "  Thousand  Island  Park,"  while  a  little  below  is  the 
fashionable  resort  known  as  the  "  Saratoga  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,"  Alexandria  Bay,  its  shores  the  foreground 
for  many  elegant  villas  and  summer  hotels.  Gazing 
upon  the  numerous  cottages  now  dotting  the  islands, 
the  mind  of  the  thoughtful  observer  quickly  spans  the 
years  that  have  seen  this  beautiful  region  opened  to  the 
admiring  sight-seer  ;  to  the  period,  not  so  very  remote, 
when  this  lovely  expanse  of  river  and  isles  was  known  to 
the  romantic  red  man  as  Manatoana,  or  "  The  Garden 
of  the  Great  Spirit."  As  usual,  the  Amerind  expressed 
in  fitting  term  the  natural  beauties  of  the  spot  named. 
Covered  with  the  ancient  forest,  fittinor  haunts  for  the 
wild  deer,  the  little  bays  and  inlets  the  common  resort 
of  water-fowl,  it  must  indeed  have  been  a  paradise  for 
the  dusky  hunter  and  fisher.  It  is  well  that  all  of  these 
natural  attractions  have  not  vanished,  for  still  many  of 
the  isles 


c    ^ 

o    ^ 


From  Lake  to  Gulf  7 

are  bristling  with  firs  and  pines;  others  lie  open  like  a  level  field 
awaiting  the  husbandman's  care.  Some  are  but  arid  rock,  as  wild 
and  picturesque  as  those  seen  among  the  Faroe  Islands;  others  have 
a  group  of  trees  or  a  solitary  pine,  and  others  bear  a  crown  of  flow- 
ers or  a  little  hillock  of  verdure  like  a  dome  of  malachite,  among 
which  the  river  slowly  glides,  embracing  with  equal  fondness  the 
great  and  the  small,  now  receding  afar  and  now  retracing  its  course, 
like  the  good  Patriarch  visiting  his  domains,  or  like  the  god  Proteus 
counting  his  snowy  flocks. 

From  Clayton  to  Chippewa  Bay  the  river,  with  its 
clustered  isles,  is  like  a  fairyland,  the  thousand  and  one 
gems  brightened  by  the  fantastic  imagery  of  the  be- 
holder. Now  an  island  comes  into  view  which  bears 
a  happy  resemblance  to  some  spot  known  in  child- 
hood. Yonder  is  a  bit  of  rock-landscape  diamond- 
shaped,  the  gleam  and  glitter  of  the  gem  in  its  setting 
rather  than  in  itself.  Close  by,  in  marked  contrast  to 
the  other's  barren  aspect,  is  a  star-pointed  plot  of  green- 
sward, adorned  by  three  trees  whose  interlacing  branches 
form  the  outline  of  a  cross.  Below,  like  a  huge  hand 
laid  upon  the  waters,  is  the  green-bordered  isle  of  the 
"lost  lover"  of  Indian  legend.  The  pointing  finger 
of  this  island  hand  still  shows  the  way  the  dusky 
maid  went  in  search  of  her  recreant  lover,  never 
to  return.  And  everywhere  art  has  combined  with 
nature  to  enliven  if  not  to  enhance  the  scene. 
Upon  a  tiny  island,  barely  large  enough  to  afford 
it  standing  room,  is  a  modest  cottage.  Over  the 
brown  shingle  of  the  rocky  beach  of  a  larger  island 
loom  the  dark  grey  walls  of  a  western-world  imitation 
of  the  Castle  of  Chillon,  but  happily  the  white  face  of 


8  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

its  prisoner,  made  immortal  by  Byron,  is  not  to  be  seen 
at  its  windows. 

The  last  of  the  Thousand  Islands  are  called  "  The 
Three  Sisters,"  on  account  of  their  resemblance  and  in- 
timate relations  to  each  other,  a  beautiful  trio  that  have 
been  the  silent  witnesses  of  the  coming  and  going  of 
the  races  of  men  claiming  lordship  over  the  wonderland 
of  the  noble  river. 

Brockville,  "  the  Queen  City  of  the  St.  Lawrence," 
named  for  General  Brock,  is  situated  on  the  Canadian 
shore,  below  the  last  of  the  islands,  with  Morristown  on 
the  New  York  bank  nearly  opposite.  Below  these, 
Ogdensburg,  on  the  American  side,  and  Prescott  on 
the  other,  stand  also  vis-a-vis,  like  sentinels  long  on 
duty.  Then  the  Massena  Landing  is  passed,  and  the 
approach  to  the  famous  rapids  is  begun. 

There  is  a  concealed  velocity  to  the  current  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  which  we  do  not  realise,  though  at  times 
conscious  of  passing  along  swift  water,  until  we  are  forci- 
bly reminded  of  the  troubled  condition  of  the  river,  and 
are  told  that  we  are  entering  the  first  of  the  series  of 
rapids  marking  the  downward  flight  of  the  waters.  The 
Galops  are  passed  when  we  come  in  sight  of  du  Plat, 
thrilled  with  the  pleasant  sensation  of  excitement,  and 
longing  for  a  repetition  of  the  exhilarating  experience. 
We  may  be  cowards  at  heart,  but  there  is  a  fascination 
in  this  mild  form  of  danger  which  arouses  our  interest. 
Aware  that  the  descent  just  made  was  merely  the  pre- 
lude to  the  grand  march  ahead,  as  if  nature  were  alive 


From  Lake  to  Gulf  9 

to  the  best  effect  to  be  produced,  we  approach  with 
quickening  pulse  the  nine  miles  of  rapids  known  as  the 
Long  Sault.  The  river  is  now  divided  by  a  string  of 
islands.  The  roar  of  the  surges  now  breaks  solemnly 
upon  the  ear,  and  the  gaze  is  greeted  with  whirlpools  of 
foaming  waters  and  curved  lines  of  yellow  flood  charg- 
ing some  hidden  enemy  which  flings  it  back  with  furious 
defiance,  only  to  receive  again  and  again  the  rallying 
legions  forever  beating  its  rock-ribbed  front.  Farther 
than  the  eye  can  reach  extend  these  series  of  rifts,  now 
capped  with  white  plumes,  anon  darkling  with  rage  ;  at 
one  moment  rushing  madly  past  jutting  headlands,  and 
then  leaping  with  bounds  the  broken  barriers  in  its 
pathway. 

The  engineer  shuts  off  the  steam,  but  the  current 
carries  us  on  at  the  rate  of  twenty  miles  an  hour.  The 
pilot,  a  descendant  of  the  dusky  boatmen  who  navigated 
the  river  in  their  light  barks  long  ere  the  coming  of  the 
white  race,  stands  with  confidence  at  his  post,  every 
sense  on  the  alert,  and  the  most  timid  feels  safe  under 
his  guidance.  Thus  one  and  all  give  their  undivided 
attention  to  watching  the  progress  of  the  steamer  glid- 
ing downward  amid  the  pitch  and  toss  of  the  broken 
current,  the  froth  and  foam  upon  the  dishevelled  waters, 
the  bended  breakers  that  wind  about  her  pathway  like 
the  fateful  combers  of  some  reef-bound  coast.  Upon 
getting  better  command  of  ourselves,  we  are  surprised 
at  the  smoothness  with  which  the  o;reat  boat  follows  its 
winding  course,  and  the  swift  and  faithful  compliance  it 


lo  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

yields  to  the  man  at  the  wheel.  Upon  one  hand  a  big 
white  cap  of  foam  covers  a  snarly  head  of  rocks  ;  on  the 
other,  a  granite  arm  reaches  out  to  seize  us  as  we  sweep 
past,  and  though  we  can  see  it  is  a  dozen  fathoms  too 
short  to  reach  us,  we  breathe  easier  when  it  is  left  astern. 
Held  fast  in  the  granite  teeth  of  a  ledge  an  ill-fated  raft 
is  seen  not  far  away,  the  sight  an  unpleasant  suggestion 
of  what  might  happen  to  us. 

At  last,  with  pleasure  and  regret  striving  for  the 
mastery  over  our  feelings,  calm  water  is  seen  in  the 
distance,  and  we  realise  we  have  passed  the  long  rapids, 
while  the  steamer  moves  gently  on  where  the  reunited 
streams  mingle  their  waters  with  a  tranquillity  quite 
remarkable  considering  the  recent  display  of  violence. 
Below  the  Long  Sault  the  river  widens  so  as  to  form 
Lake  St.  Francis,  five  and  one-half  miles  in  width  and 
twenty-five  miles  in  length.  Here  and  there  an  island 
dots  the  placid  surface.  This  soon  proves  to  be  the 
training-ground  for  another  charge  in  its  downward 
march  from  the  lake  to  the  gulf,  the  preparation  for  a 
series  of  plunges  down  four  rapids  known  as  Couteau, 
Cedars,  Split  Rock,  and  Cascades,  the  quartette  so 
closely  connected  as  really  to  form  one  continuous 
rift. 

Upon  reaching  the  foot  of  this  watery  stairway,  we 
come  upon  another  body  of  calm  water,  another  muster- 
ground,  named  Lake  St.  Louis.  The  distant  range  of 
mountains  —  a  spur  of  the  Adirondacks  —  which  has 
loomed  so  long  and  plain  upon  our  view,  now  grows  in- 


o    2 


From  Lake  to  Gulf  ii 

distinct,  and  we  turn  from  its  peaceful  outlines  to  watch 
the  river-banks  gradually  drawing  nearer,  as  if  fearful 
of  giving  their  charge  too  great  scope  of  freedom. 
Soon  the  misty  form  of  Mount  Royal  appears  on  the 
horizon. 

Then  the  quickening  current  again  speaks  of  rapids, 
of  the  running  of  a  swift  and  furious  race  with  fate,  as 
if  the  elements  were  forever  fleeing-  from  gaolers  that 
would  bind  them  in  fetters  of  granite.  The  water  is 
whipped  into  serpents  of  foam,  coiling  about  the  rocky 
heads  thrust  above  the  surface,  betraying  with  added 
ferocity  the  rage  they  would  seem  to  conceal.  Borne 
on  once  more  solely  by  the  current,  the  boat  settles 
under  our  feet  as  if  it  were  slipping' from  under  us. 
The  thrill,  the  exhilaration,  the  excitement,  the  hazard, 
the  fury  of  the  eddies,  the  foam  of  the  surf,  the  twists 
and  mazes  of  the  turgid  stream  that  tend  to  bewilder 
the  onlooker,  the  efforts  of  the  man  at  the  wheel,  the 
watchfulness  of  the  pilot,  the  anxiety  of  the  captain, 
— all  these  are  doubled  against  our  previous  experi- 
ences, and  we  have  run  the  famous  rapids  of  Lachine  ! 

The  river  again  widens  and  assumes  a  tranquil  ap- 
pearance. The  wood-fringed  shores  of  Nun's  Island  are 
passed,  and  then  the  steamer  sweeps  proudly  under  the 
far-reaching  spans  of  Victoria  Bridge,  over  two  miles  in 
length,  and  considered  one  of  the  great  engineering  feats 
of  the  nineteenth  century.  Then  Montreal,  Canada's 
great  metropolis,  the  city  of  churches  and  cathedrals, 
massive   business    buildings,   commodious    hotels,   and 


12  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

magnificent  parks,  with  the  yet  more  magnificent 
mountain  rising  in  the  background,  comes  into  view. 

Tried  no  more  with  rapids,  the  great  river,  Hke  the 
mighty  stream  it  is,  sweeps  calmly  and  majestically  be- 
tween high,  precipitous  banks,  or  where  the  shores  are 
low  and  level,  with  continuous  rows  of  white-walled 
cottages,  with  groups  of  these  dwellings  at  regular 
intervals  forming  a  well-ordered  hamlet,  from  among 
whose  tree-tops  rises  the  spire  of  a  church,  proving 
the  inhabitants  to  be  a  religious  people.  Forty-five 
miles  below  Montreal,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Richelieu 
River,  stands  the  thriving  town  of  Sorel. 

Another  broadening  of  the  river  forms  Lake  St.  Peter, 
nine  miles  wide  and  twenty-five  miles  long.  Then  the 
St.  Frangois  River,  flowing  down  past  the  picturesque 
and  historic  Indian  village  by  the  same  name,  enters 
the  St.  Lawrence  ;  on  the  north  another  stream  joins 
the  larger  river  through  three  channels,  giving  name 
to  the  bustling  town  of  Three  Rivers;  then  the  namesake 
of  a  famous  Indian  chief,  Batiscan,  the  inlet  of  Jacques 
Cartier  River,  an  increasing  ruggedness  of  the  river- 
banks  ;  the  mouth  of  the  Chaudiere  ;  and  then,  more 
conspicuous  than  all  else,  rises  upon  the  view  the 
ancient  stronghold  of  New  France, — the  Gibraltar  of 
America, — Quebec.  Here  is  more  history  wrapped  in 
the  silence  of  grey  battlements  ;  more  romance  buried 
under  antique  walls ;  more  mystery  veiled  by  the  at- 
mosphere of  departed  centuries,  than  is  to  be  found 
elsewhere  in  America.    Here  the  luxurious  splendour  of 


From  Lake  to  Gulf  13 

the  Old  World  mingled  with  the  barbaric  simplicity  of 
the  New ;  here  was  cradled  a  new  empire  for  France ; 
and  here,  upon  her  battlefields,  was  decided  the  fate  of 
nations. 

Quebec  is  about  midway  between  the  lakes  and  the 
gulf,  and  with  still  four  hundred  miles  to  journey  the 
St.  Lawrence  sweeps  on  toward  the  sea,  its  current  now 
the  servant  of  the  ocean  tide,  passing  leisurely  in  suc- 
cession islands  strung  upon  a  broad  band  of  silver, 
picturesque  villages  under  the  dedication  of  church 
spires,  an  occasional  tributary  stream,  the  grandest  of 
which  is  the  deep-volumed  Saguenay,  frowning  points 
of  land  and  rock,  mountains  whose  ruggedness  is  soft- 
ened by  the  enchantment  of  distance. 

Rivers  have  at  least  one  human  trait.  They  are 
invariably  loath  to  render  over  their  treasures,  to  yield 
unto  the  sea  the  tribute  they  have  brought  from  hills 
and  woods  through  many  a  difficult  passage  and  peril- 
ous rapid.  As  the  end  draws  near  they  move  with 
increasing  sluggishness.  The  Great  River  of  China, 
after  leaping  dizzy  mountain  cliffs  and  running  a  furi- 
ous race  along  a  thousand  leagues  of  rapids  and  gorges, 
slows  its  gait  at  last,  and  finally,  in  its  desperation, 
heaps  up  bars  of  sand  in  a  vain  effort  to  save  itself 
from  the  hungry  sea.  The  Amazon  deploys  right  and 
left  over  the  adjacent  country,  as  if  bent  upon  swallow- 
ing instead  of  being  swallowed,  until  it  is  difficult  to 
distinguish  between  river  and  ocean.  The  Mississippi, 
after  overflowing  its  banks  for  miles,   creeps  sullenly 


14  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

over  sand-bars  it  is  constantly  building  up,  and  pours 
its  flood  into  the  gulf  through  several  avenues.  The 
Great  River  of  Canada  forms  no  exception.  Gradu- 
ally widening  after  leaving  Quebec,  at  Point  de  Montes 
it  suddenly  makes  a  broader  pathway  than  ever,  but 
if  moving  through  Amazonian  portals  it  still  clings  to 
well-defined  shores  for  another  two  hundred  miles — 

Then  out  to  the  sea  with  a  stately  sweep, 

It  mingles  its  tide  with  the  mighty  deep, 
As  it  has  for  a  thousand  years. 


I 


Chapter  II 
In  the  Wake  of  Cartier 

His  Voyages  of  Discovery — Planting  the  Cross  at  Gaspe — From  Gulf  to  River — 
Scenery  along  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence. 

THE  St.  Lawrence  is  the  only  large  river  traced 
upon  Novus  Orbis,  which  is  claimed  to  be  the 
first  general  atlas  of  the  Western  Hemisphere; 
and  whether  done  from  the  knowledo-e  of  actual  ex- 
ploration  or  from  imagination,  it  became  in  Europe  the 
most  famous  waterway  in  America  before  the  Hudson, 
the  Mississippi,  or  any  other  stream  had  created  a 
ripple  on  the  surface  of  discovery. 

In  regard  to  its  navigation,  tradition  says  one 
Thomas  Aubert  sailed  up  the  river,  in  the  early  part  of 
the  sixteenth  century,  as  far  as  Tadousac,  and  brought 
back  an  Indian  captive.  This  seems,  at  first  glance,  to 
be  the  earliest  account  of  an  ascent  by  a  European, 
still  there  is  strong  evidence  to  show  that  before  this 
adventurous  explorer  from  Dieppe  made  this  voyage 
the  Normans,  Basques,  and  Malouns  had  ascended  the 
river  as  far  as  he  claimed,  to  fish  and  to  trade  with 
the  natives  for  furs.  How  much  farther  these  rugged 
fishermen    went    there    is   nothing  to   show,  though   it 

15 


1 6  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

is  quite  likely  they  went  as  far  as  the  present  site  of 
Quebec,  where  there  was  an  Indian  town  known  as 
Stadacone. 

Apropos  of  this  interesting  subject,  Mr.  W.  H.  H. 
Murray  wrote  of  these  voyages  of  the  Basque,  while  he 
was  enjoying  a  yacht  trip  up  the  Saguenay : 

There  is  reason  to  think  that  before  the  Christ  was  born  the  old 
Iberian  ships  were  here  ;  and  their  descendants,  the  Basques,  con- 
tinued the  commerce  which  their  progenitors  had  established,  and 
who  had  rendezvoused  here  1500  years  after  the  Galilean  name 
had  conquered  kingdoms  and  empires.  The  Norsemen  were  here, 
we  know,  a  thousand  years  ago,  and  many  a  night  the  old  sea  kings 
of  the  north  drank  out  of  their  mighty  drinking  horns  good  health 
to  the  distant  ones  and  honours  to  Thor  and  Odin.  Then,  late 
enough  to  have  his  coming  known  to  letters,  and  hence  recorded, 
Jacques  Cartier  came,  himself  a  Breton,  and  hence  cousin  in 
blood  to  the  Basque  whalers,  whom  he  found  here  engaged  in  a 
pursuit  which  their  race  had  followed  before  Rome  was  founded  or 
Greece  was  born,  before  Jerusalem  was  builded,  or  even  Egypt, 
perhaps,  planted  as  a  colony.  St.  Augustine,  Plymouth  Rock,  Que- 
bec— these  are  mushroom  growths,  creations  of  yesterday,  tradition- 
less,  without  a  legend  and  without  a  fame,  beside  this  harbour  of 
Tadousac,  whose  history,  along  a  thin  but  strong  cord  of  sequence, 
can  be  traced  back  for  a  thousand  years,  and  whose  connection 
with  Europe  is  older  than  the  name  ! 

y/  Passing  into  the  more  substantial  structure  of  history 

we  find  three  names  standing  out  with  prominence  in 
the  narrative  of  our  river :  Cartier,  the  Pathfinder ; 
Champlain,  the  Father  of  French  colonisation  ;  Fronte- 
nac,  the  Saviour  of  New  France.  Fortunately  the  first 
two  left  very  full  accounts  of  their  discoveries*  that  of 
the  second  being  especially  valuable  in  the  detail  and 
fulness   of  his  descriptions  of  the  new  country  and  its 


JACQUES    CARTIER. 


<^:^^Si^< 


In  the  Wake  of  Cartier  17 

denizens.  Even  if  not  as  complete,  no  narrative  given 
to  the  eager  seekers  after  knowledge  at  that  anxious 
period  threw  so  much  light  upon  the  New  World  as 
the  Bref  Rdcit  of  the  redoubtable  Breton  who  was 
foremost  of  this  trio. 

The  opening  of  the  sixteenth  century  was  the  dawning 
of  a  new  day  upon  the  long,  moonless  night  of  the  Mid- 
dle Ages.  Columbus  had  startled  Europe  with  the  out- 
come of  his  hazardous  voyages,  and  Spain,  reaping  the 
glory,  stood  at  the  head  of  the  leading  Powers  of  the 
civilised  world.  What  Rome  had  done  in  the  van  of 
conquest  Castile  promised  to  repeat.  In  his  overflow 
of  exultation  her  king  very  magnanimously  divided  the 
earth  with  the  king  of  Portugal,  who  was  disposed  to 
believe  he  had  a  joint  interest  in  the  matter,  and  their 
popes  issued  a  papal  bull  to  that  effect.  The  spirit  of 
the  times  and  the  audacity  of  kings  is  shown  by  the 
ruler  of  France,  who  went  Ferdinand  one  better  by 
laying  claim  to  all  of  the  New  World.  Thus  we  see 
marked  upon  the  maps  and  globes  of  that  day  the  con- 
tinents of  North  and  South  America  under  the  name 
of  "New  France!" 

The  assumption  for  this  bold  claim  was  based  upon 
the  discoveries  of  Verrazzano  in  1524,  and  those  of 
Jacques  Cartier,  1534-36.  As  the  first  of  these  intrepid 
navigators  only  sailed  along  the  coast  of  the  unexplored 
country,  I  have  no  occasion  to  speak  of  the  fruits  of 
his  voyages.  Those  of  the  latter  have  a  direct  bearing 
upon  the  subject  in  hand,  for  he  penetrated  so  far  into 


1 8  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

the  interior  as  to  become  not  only  the  discoverer  but  the 
explorer  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Little  is  known  of  Cartier  outside  of  his  voyages  to 
America.  He  belonged  to  a  race  of  hardy  fishermen, 
and  had,  it  is  claimed,  made  several  fishing  voyages 
between  St.  Malo  and  the  shores  of  Labrador,  until  he 
had  become  imbued  with  the  idea  that  it  would  be 
worth  his  while  to  penetrate  into  the  interior  of  the 
country,  whose  shores,  if  inhospitable  and  forbidding, 
yet  beckoned  him  hither  with  the  finger  of  mystery. 
Others  speak  of  him  as  a  corsair.  Let  which  will  be 
right,  or  both  for  that  matter,  it  is  certain  he  was  a  bold 
navigator,  who  had  sailed  the  seas  to  such  an  extent  he 
had  created  for  himself  a  confidence  among  his  friends 
and  patrons  that  he  was  equal  to  the  undertaking  of 
leading  the  way  for  any  enterprise  France  might  under- 
take in  the  unknown  West.  He  was  in  the  prime  of 
life,  being  forty-three  years  of  age  at  the  time  he  pro- 
posed his  daring  scheme,  and  the  opportunity  was  pro- 
pitious. Central  Europe  was  shaken  by  the  spirit  of 
a  religious  revolution.  Germany  was  under  the  rod 
of  Luther,  and  France  was  trembling  before  the  attacks 
of  Calvin.  In  both  cases  Catholicism  was  the  sufferer 
and  it  was  argued  that  the  success  of  Spain  was  due 
largely  to  her  fidelity  to  this  church.  Thus  Francis  the 
First,  King  of  France,  whose  piety  was  equalled  only  by 
his  political  ambition,  eagerly  seized  upon  the  prospect 
of  recompensing  his  church  for  its  loss  in  the  Old 
World  by  opening  up  a  field  in  New  France. 


In  the  Wake  of  Carder  19 

St.  Malo  stood  upon  a  peninsula,  whose  point  ran 
out  into  the  water  so  as  to  form  a  small  harbour,  left 
nearly  dry  at  the  ebb  of  the  tide,  which  went  out  with 
a  roar  and  rush  quite  terrific.  Naturally  the  men  of 
such  a  place  were  experienced  sailors,  and  it  is  certain 
none  stood  higher  than  the  master  pilot,  Jacques 
Cartier,  who  upon  the  morning  of  April  20,  1534,  felt 
his  heart  bound  with  freedom  as  the  tide  lifted  upon  its 
mighty  bosom  his  small  vessels,  and  bore  them  resolute- 
ly away  upon  their  long  voyage.  Among  the  friends 
who  bade  the  departing  sailors  a  hearty  god-speed,  not 
even  the  most  sanguine  could  have  dreamed  of  the  out- 
come of  the  undertaking. 

The  passage  of  the  Atlantic  was  made  without 
serious  delays,  but  off  the  shore  of  Newfoundland, 
Cartier  experienced  such  stormy  weather  that,  after 
going  as  far  as  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle,  he  was  fain  to 
turn  south,  by  this  manoeuvre  accomplishing  the  first 
navigation  of  the  coast.  Rounding  the  Magdalene 
Islands  he  entered  the  gulf,  and  sailing  along  the  shore 
of  Prince  Edward's  Island,  he  made  on  the  8th  of  July 
the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  giving  it  the  name  by  which  it  is 
now  known  from  the  excessive  heat  of  that  day. 

The  exact  course  followed  by  him  after  this  is  not 
clearly  shown,  though  this  is  a  matter  of  small  import- 
ance. Where  the  land  juts  out  into  the  gulf  as  a  sort 
of  dividing  line  between  that  body  of  water  and  its 
generous  afifluent,  he  landed  to  implant  the  first  cross 
upon  the  shores  of  the  New  World.     To  appease  the 


20  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

fears  of  the  wondering  natives  he  explained  that  he  was 
doing-  it  as  a  beacon-post  for  other  voyagers  Hkely  to 
follow  him.  Then,  enticing  two  of  the  men  on  board 
and  impressing  them  as  pilots,  he  sailed  away  from  the 
solitary  but  magnificent  shore,  whose  scenery  has  not 
yet  been  appreciated  save  by  an  occasional  artist  who 
has  reached  the  ancient  hamlet  of  Ste.  Anne  des  Monts 
and  Cape  Gaspe.  It  has  its  own  peculiar  attractions, 
however,  and  the  day  cannot  be  far  distant  when  the 
southward  tide  of  tourists  will  find  them,  and  the 
quiet  simplicity  of  the  humble  fisher-  and  farmer- 
folk  will  be  swallowed  up  in  the  train  of  modern  fashion 
and  revelry. 

Highly  elated  over  his  pious  accomplishment  at  Cape 
Gaspe,  Cartier  sailed  proudly  up  the  gulf,  coasting  along 
the  shore  of  the  island  of  Anticosti.  But  he  failed  to 
realise  that  he  was  within  the  sweep  of  the  flood  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,  and  thus  missed  the  knowledge  of  a 
discovery  of  the  great  waterway  bringing  its  offerings 
from  its  vast  system  of  inland  seas  nearly  two  thousand 
miles  distant.  He  was  nine  weeks  in  making  this 
exploration,  and,  after  repassing  the  lonely  strait  which 
had  led  him  into  the  gulf,  bore  away  for  his  homeland. 
If  he  carried  with  him  little  to  encourage  his  King  in 
another  enterprise  of  the  kind,  he  had  accomplished,  in 
fact,  from  having  paved  the  way  for  future  voyages, 
more  than  he  could  have  foretold. 

The  following  spring  Cartier  started  on  his  second 
voyage,  his  one  aim  and  instruction  this  time  being  to 


I 


In  the  Wake  of  Carder  21 

carry  Christianity  to  the  heathen.  One  cannot  help 
speculating,  without  intending  sarcasm,  as  to  whether 
there  was  not  quite  as  much  necessity  for  this  work  upon 
his  ships,  inasmuch  as  his  crew  was  made  up  largely  of 
criminals  pressed  into  his  service.  Letting  that,  which 
is  really  none  of  our  concern,  alone,  the  weather  on  this 
voyage  was  adverse,  so  his  little  fleet  of  three  caravels 
was  scattered  before  he  could  bring  them  safely  to  the 
shores  of  the  new  country.  It  was  late  in  July  when  he 
again  entered  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle,  on  the  Labrador 
coast,  and  sought  safety  in  a  small  harbour  he  christened 
the  "  Bay  of  St.  Lawrence  "  (Saint  Laurens),  the  first 
appearance  of  this  name  which  was  later  to  be  applied  to 
both  gulf  and  river. 

Soon  the  doughty  Breton  resumed  his  onward  course, 
hugging  the  southern  shore,  along  a  river  eighty  miles 
in  width.  With  what  awe  he  watched  the  surrounding 
scene  may  be  imagined,  believing,  as  he  did,  he  had  at 
last  found  the  passage  to  Cathay,  the  Mecca  of  the 
dreams  of  every  voyager  of  that  day.  As  his  brave 
little  craft  plunged  boldly  along  the  coast  frowning 
cliffs,  bleak,  barren,  forbidding,  frowned  down  upon 
him,  and  then  he  came  abreast  of  the  stern  bulwarks  of 
the  Gaspe  range,  whose  watchmen,  the  Shicksaws, 
tower  like  huge  giants  vainly  climbing  to  reach  the  sky 
that  bended  low  over  their  crests  as  if  eager  to  meet 
them  half-way.  Over  all  hung  the  silence  of  forest  and 
mountain,  the  restless  sleep  of  river  and  sea. 

Farther  away,  upon  the  other  hand,  rose  rocky  walls 


22  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

that  formed  mighty  barriers  to  the  mysterious  wilder- 
ness beyond.  Broken  here  and  there  with  huge  rents, 
gorges,  and  chasms,  these  defiles  only  served  to  reveal 
the  mightier  breastworks  beyond  thrown  up  by  na- 
ture in  her  defence  against  the  incursions  of  explorers. 
What  a  grand  sight!  Grey  rocks,  piled  tier  upon  tier ; 
sombre  forests,  looming  terrace  above  terrace ;  the 
vague,  mist-like  outline  of  mountains  beyond.  Over  all 
hung  the  shifting  tints  of  light  and  shade.  Now  the 
bright-hued  beams  of  breaking  day  illuminated  pine 
and  spruce,  brilliant  maple,  dazzling  poplar,  and  the  deep 
green  of  the  cedar.  At  noontide  this  crimson  and  pink 
became  intensified  with  the  gorgeous  brightness  of  mid- 
day. Anon,  the  atmosphere  of  evening  glorified  all 
with  many  tints,  splashing  the  landscape  with  an  added 
transparency  of  gold  and  silver  upon  green  and  brown, 
russet  and  purple,  the  lighter  shades  swiftly  taking  on 
the  deeper  hues  as  the  sun  sank  behind  the  distant 
ranges,  each  halo  forming  a  distinct  band  of  shadows. 
These,  too,  proved  of  short  life  and  shifting  shades,  for 
the  rising  moon  touched  them  with  her  magic  wand, 
sending  them  deeper  and  deeper  into  the  gorges  and 
ravines  from  whence  they  had  sprung,  as  she  ascended 
the  stairway  of  the  sky. 

As  he  progressed,  bold  headlands  thrust,  ever  and 
anon,  their  solemn  fronts  far  out  into  the  water,  and 
then  these  gave  way  to  long,  level  reaches,  marking  the 
outer  boundaries  of  some  bay  or  deep  swamp,  the  re- 
sort of  innumerable  birds,  the  most  prominent  of  which 


In  the  Wake  of  Cartier  23 

were  great  flocks  of  crows,  whose  flight  darkened  the 
sun.  Then  the  mountain  breeze,  tempered  with  the 
aroma  of  a  perennial  forest,  kissed  away  the  damp  of 
the  sak-sea  spray  from  his  brow,  and  exchanging  the 
plaintive  swish  of  the  moaning  tide  for  the  soughing  of 
the  west  winds  through  the  groves  of  fir  and  pine,  he 
passed  boldly  through  the  open  gate  to  Canada,  leading 
the  way  into  the  primeval  fastness  for  the  bold  voya- 
geurs  who  were  to  follow  in  his  wake. 

*'  What  river  is  this  ? "  asked  Cartier,  of  his  dusky 
pilots, — the  two  natives  whom  he  had  taken  captive  the 
year  before, — as  he  stood  with  uncovered  head,  begin- 
ning to  realise  that  his  dream  of  a  passage  to  India 
was  fading  away.  The  red  man,  with  solemn  dignity 
becoming  his  reply,  answered  : 

"  A  river  without  end." 

Now  Cartier  moved  slowly  and  cautiously  along  the 
great  river,  which  he  felt  certain  must  come  from  the 
interior  of  the  continent.  His  dark-hued  companions 
told  him  many  wonder  stories  of  the  strange  region  to 
the  north,  over  which  roamed  the  tribe  of  Montagnais, 
or  "mountaineers,"  so  frequently  written  of  by  the 
Jesuit  missionaries  in  after  years.  These  Indians  had 
been  long  at  war  with  the  Innuits.  They  evidently 
had  come  at  some  remote  period  from  the  north  and 
west.  To  the  south-west  of  the  Ungava  district  dwelt 
the  Little  Whale  River  Indians,  more  mild  in  their  con- 
duct than  the  others.  They  were  boatmen  of  extra- 
ordinary skill.     In  their  birch-bark  canoes,  which  had 


24  The  St  Lawrence  River 

a  higher  curve  at  prow  and  stern  than  others  gave  to 
theirs,  so  as  to  cut  better  the  foaming  current,  they 
outrode  winds  and  waves  that  would  appall  the  hearts 
of  braver,  but  less  skilled,  canoe-men.  Then  there 
were  the  Koksoak  Indians,  whose  leading  trait  was 
their  ability  to  carry  on  a  long-distance  conversation. 
Through  an  inflection  of  speech,  peculiar  to  them, 
they  could  raise  their  voice  to  such  a  pitch  that  they 
could  make  themselves  understood  by  their  companions 
who  might  be  more  than  a  mile  away,  while  each  alter- 
nate word  would  sink  to  a  whisper.  These  Indians 
were  also,  and  are  still,  noted  for  their  exactness  in 
imitating  the  cries  of  wild  geese.  In  doing  this  some 
of  the  men  will  make  one  note,  and  others  follow  with 
the  variations.  It  is  claimed  by  ethnologists  that  all  of 
these  families  of  Amerinds  belong  to  the  Cree  stock, 
their  difference  in  customs  and  language  being  due  to 
their  environments. 

The  scene  along  the  south  shore  was  less  suggestive 
of  the  sublime  and  fiercer  elements  which  reio^ned  over 
the  northern  country,  the  realm  of  the  foaming  torrent 
and  the  warrino-  wilderness.  Here  were  to  be  seen  at 
times  wide  breadths  of  lowland  forests,  with  a  frame- 
work of  mountains  in  the  distance.  To-day  there  is  an 
almost  continuous  chain  of  fisher  hamlets,  farm-houses, 
villages,  diamonded  by  church  spires,  marked  by  wind- 
mills, groves  of  trees,  and  green  meadows,  whose 
bosoms  are  knotted  with  silvery  streams  winding  slug- 
gishly down  to  the  sea. 


Chapter   III 
The  Lower  St.   Lawrence 

The  Oldest  Town  in  America — Legend  of  Perce  Rock — A  Glimpse  of  the  Sague- 
nay — Cartier  Reaches  Stadacone,  the  Original  Quebec. 

THIS  lower  section  of  the  Great  River  of  Canada 
is  the  birthland  of  the  gods  and  heroes  of 
the  pictqresque  Amerinds,  whose  myths  and 
legends  have  not  yet  fled  before  the  searchlight  of  civi- 
lisation, so  there  is  not  a  spot  without  its  warrior 
dream  and  some  allusion  to  that  day  when  the  land  was 
peopled  by  a  race  with  an  unwritten  history.  Here, 
long  before  the  coming  of  Cartier  and  his  successors, 
the  most  poetical  and  chivalrous  of  the  explorers  of 
America,  was  waged  many  a  sanguinary  battle  for  the 
lordship  of  these  fruitful  hunting-grounds  and  fisheries 
between  the  Micmacs,  Malecites,  Abnakis,  Montagnais, 
Souriquois,  and  others.  Nor  did  these  tragedies  cease 
with  the  coming  of  the  white  conquerors,  themselves 
made  up  of  many  families.  From  where  lies  grim 
Anticosti,  swathed  long  nights  in  its  cloaks  of  mist,  dis- 
closing with  the  sunlight  desolate  shores  strewn  with  the 
wreckage  of  good  vessels  driven  upon  its  rocks  under 
the  stress  of  the  furious  gales  prevalent  off  this  coast, 

25 


26  The  St  Lawrence  River 

there  is  not  an  island,  point  of  mainland,  or  indentation 
of  water  where  some  wonder  story  does  not  cling,  some 
wraith  of  old-time  adventure  does  not  hover.  We  see 
signs  of  these  imprinted  upon  the  rugged  features  of  the 
inhabitants, — singular  compounds,  it  would  seem,  them- 
selves of  the  ancient  voyageur  and  the  latter-day 
farmer-  and  fisher-folk. 

The  oldest  French  name  on  the  continent  is 
"  Breton,"  supplied  by  a  Portuguese  cartographer  in 
1520,  in  memory  of  the  hardy  fishermen  from  Brittany, 
who  had  been  in  the  habit  of  visiting,  for  an  unknown 
period,  the  place  on  their  fishing  trips.  Gaspe  can 
claim  a  greater  honour,  as  it  has  reason  to  be  considered 
the  most  ancient  town  founded  by  Europeans  in 
America,  if  it  is  true  the  Vikinofs  had  a  fishinor  station 
here  in  the  tenth  century,  five  hundred  years  before 
Columbus  went  forth  to  rediscover  the  New  World. 
Velasco,  the  Spanish  navigator,  is  supposed  to  have 
visited  the  bay  in  1506.  Cartier,  as  I  have  already 
shown,  was  there  in  1534,  taking  possession  of  the  sur- 
rounding country  in  the  name  of  the  King  of  France, 
and  leaving  as  a  monument  of  his  easy  conquest  a  cross 
thirty  feet  in  height,  decked  with  the  fleur-de-lis  of  his 
native  land.  If  the  Latin  race  proved  poor  colonisers, 
so  did  the  Gallic  adventurers,  and  it  was  left  for  the 
Anglo-Saxons  to  accomplish  what  the  others  had  failed 
to  do.  Fortunately  the  earlier  feelings  of  racial  dislike 
have  gradually  softened,  and  out  of  the  union  has  come 
a  strong  and  virile  people,  working  harmoniously  to- 


f 

1 

m 

The  Lower  St.  Lawrence  27 

gether   for   their   common    good    toward   building   up 
a  nation  destined  to  become  a  power  in  the  world. 

Gaspe  Bay  is  about  twenty  miles  in  length,  and 
ends  in  a  basin  larg-e  enouo^h  to  shelter  a  fleet  of 
a  thousand  vessels,  so  it  is  worthy  of  the  notice  it 
attracted  in  the  days  of  exploration,  when  the  first 
object  desired  was  the  safety  of  the  ships. 

It  is  easy  to  imagine  the  feelings  of  these  doughty  voy- 
agers as  they  gazed  for  the  first  time  upon  that  grey  obe- 
lisk five  hundred  feet  in  length  and  nearly  three  hundred 
feet  in  height,  known  as  Perce  Rock.  Rising  from  the 
water  in  the  distance  like  a  pillar  of  solid  stone,  when 
they  drew  nearer  a  lofty  arch  opened,  as  if  the  massive 
walls  had  been  swung  ajar  by  the  Omnipotent  Hand. 
Some  rocks  lose  their  startling  shapes  upon  closer  ap- 
proach, and  the  air  of  mystery  melts  into  the  clear 
sunshine,  robbing  each  point  and  fissure  of  unlikely  pic- 
tures. But  this  one  manages  to  increase  the  vividness 
of  its  setting,  until  it  requires  no  grievous  strain  of  the 
imagination  to  feel  that  you  are  gazing  upon  the  outer 
wall  of  some  old  granite  castle  long  since  depleted  of 
its  tower  and  temple.  This  illusion  is  enhanced  by  the. 
dark  broadsides  of  a  mountain  in  the  background,  whose 
top  is  as  square  as  if  it  had  been  chopped  off  by  a  single 
stroke  from  the  mighty  axe  of  Glooscap  or  some  other 
weird  deity  of  the  aborigines  of  this  vicinity.  As  usual 
where  nature  reigns  supreme,  rock  and  water  and  moun- 
tain blend  together  so  as  to  form  one  grand  and  perfect 
whole.      Throw  over  this  the  broad  bars  of  the  setting 


2  8  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

sun,  and  an  atmosphere  that  only  the  clear  air  of  this 
hyperborean  temperature  can  produce,  and  you  have  ob- 
tained a  most  remarkable  effect  of  a  remarkable  scene. 

Beyond  this  the  same  sunset  is  flooding  a  long,  huge 
pile  of  brownish  ledge  of  rock,  cutting  in  twain  a  tide 
that  rolls  majestically  over  fifty  fathoms  of  water.  This 
last  is  Bonaventura  Island,  which  has  been  beating  back 
for  unnumbered  ages  the  white-maned  cavalry  of  the 
sea,  until  its  high  walls  bear  the  marks  of  the  inroads  of 
these  invincible  legions,  which  in  the  end  must  become 
its  conquerors  though  that  day  is  still  far  removed. 

Romance  delights  to  cluster  around  such  spots,  and 
Perce  Rock  is  not  devoid  of  interest  in  this  direction. 
The  sweetest,  saddest,  of  these  stories  still  told  by 
the  fishermen  of  this  locality  is  the  account  of  the  fair 
Breton  maid  who  lost  her  life  here,  and  whose  white 
wraith  is  still  to  be  seen  hovering  over  the  fateful  place 
at  certain  times  when  the  sun's  light  dips  just  so  far  and 
no  farther  over  the  rim  of  the  distant  mountain.  She 
is  seen  but  a  moment,  and  sharp  and  quick  indeed  must 
be  the  eye  of  him  who  catches  a  glimpse  of  her.  Those 
who  have  been  so  fortunate  declare  that  her  form  is 
clearly  outlined,  and  that  she  is  very  beautiful. 

It  has  been  nearly  two  hundred  years  since  her 
earthly  figure  assumed  the  spiritual.  Her  lover — for, 
like  most  of  the  delightful  folklore  of  this  region,  hers 
is  a  love-story — was  among  the  early  voyagers  who 
came  to  seek  his  fortune  in  the  wilds  of  the  American 
wilderness  in  the  valley  of  the  storied  St.   Lawrence. 


I 


I 


I 
I 


The  Lower  St.  Lawrence  29 

She  was  his  promised  bride,  and  fain  would  have  ac- 
companied him  upon  his  hazardous  journey,  but  he 
deemed  it  best  for  her  to  remain  behind  until  he  should 
send  for  her.  Upon  reaching  Quebec  he  soon  arranged 
for  her  coming,  and  sent  her  word  to  come  by  the  next 
vessel.  She  obeyed  gladly,  but  the  ship  upon  which 
she  sailed  was  captured  by  Spanish  corsairs,  and  she  of 
all  the  crew  was  spared,  as  it  proved,  for  a  worse  fate. 
Her  beauty  had  so  captivated  the  pirate  captain  that 
he  soon  announced  his  purpose  of  making  her  his  wife. 
She  refused  to  comply  with  his  demands,  and,  finding  his 
threats  could  not  move  her,  he  swore  that  she  should 
never  reach  Quebec.  Furthermore,  he  would  sail  past 
the  town  upon  the  rock,  and  in  sight  of  its  walls  and  the 
home  of  her  lover  she  should  be  put  to  death.  This 
fate  so  preyed  upon  her  mind  that  as  the  vessel  entered 
the  waters  of  the  Great  River  she  escaped  her  watchers 
and  sprang  overboard.  The  efforts  put  forth  to  effect 
her  rescue  were  in  vain,  but  later,  as  the  ship  was  sail- 
ing past  this  rock,  the  lookout  discovered  what  appeared 
to  him  as  a  woman  just  arisen  from  the  water,  her 
clinging  garments  dripping  with  the  salt  spray. 

It  was  the  hour  of  sunset,  and  attracted  thither  by 
some  mysterious  power,  the  vessel  slowly  approached 
the  figure  lurine  them  on.  In  the  midst  of  this  advance 
it  was  discovered  that  the  ship  was  slowly  sinking, 
though  she  had  appeared  to  spring  no  leak  !  In  vain 
her  frantic  commander  shouted  his  orders  to  wear  away 
from  the  haunted  spot.     In  vain  did  his  frenzied  crew 


30  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

endeavour  to  obey.  It  was  soon  found  that  the  hulk  of 
the  ship  and  themselves  were  turning  into  stone  !  The 
masts  became  uplifted  pillars  of  iron,  and  the  sails  were 
transformed  into  sheets  of  slate  !  While  she  drifted 
with  invincible  power  toward  the  fateful  rock  she  con- 
tinued to  sink  deeper  and  deeper  into  the  tide.  Be- 
fore the  seamen  and  their  officers  could  leap  overboard 
they  were  changed  to  bodies  of  stone.  Then,  as  the 
doomed  vessel  collided  with  the  rock,  in  some  mysteri- 
ous manner  she  became  a  part  of  it !  Yonder  point  of 
ledge  is  said  to  have  been  her  bowsprit,  but  time  and 
tide  have  dimmed  her  outlines  somewhat,  though  there 
was  a  day  when  she  could  be  plainly  discerned.  If  the 
ship  has  lost  its  identity  in  the  rock  the  wraith  of  the 
unfortunate  maiden  still  lingers  over  the  place.  It  is 
believed  now  she,  too,  will  depart  when  the  last  vestige 
of  the  ship  shall  have  vanished.  The  fisherman  who 
tells  you  this  legend  of  Perce  Rock  may  vary  its  details 
somewhat,  for  no  two  tell  it  alike,  but  in  one  respect  all 
will  agree.  No  one  will  hazard  his  luck  by  dropping  a 
line  for  fish  at  the  sacred  hour  when  its  white  visitant 
is  expected  to  appear. 

Even  this  has  come  since  that  distant  day  when 
Cartier,  still  wondering,  still  anxious,  kept  on  his  lonely 
way,  the  swish  of  a  leaping  fish  clearing  at  a  bound  yards 
of  water  and  air,  the  calling  of  a  pair  of  gulls  in  the  lan- 
guage known  only  to  them,  the  deeper  call  and  answer 
of  a  couple  of  loons  far  out  over  the  water,  the  plashing 
of  some  white  whales  disporting  in  the  tide,  plunging 


The  Lower  St.  Lawrence  31 

about  like  porpoises,  while  giving  utterance  to  a  deep, 
lowing  sound  like  a  cow  calling  to  her  calf,  the  sounds 
breaking  upon  the  solemnity  of  his  lonely  advance.  As 
he  sailed  on,  the  distant  walls  of  the  forest,  which  Ruskin 
has  compared  to  a  mighty  cathedral,  with  painted  win- 
dows and  hung  with  illuminated  manuscripts,  gradually 
drew  nearer,  the  silence  unbroken  by  the  clink  of  a  sur- 
veyor's chain,  and  where  the  industrious  beaver,  w'hich 
was  unconsciously  to  become  such  a  potent  factor  in 
opening  up  this  wilderness,  now  plied  its  craft  undis- 
turbed, save  when  that  being,  half-human,  half-satyr, 
silently  set  his  traps  for  it  and  clothed  his  dusky  form 
in  its  skins. 

In  turn  the  bronzed  and  bearded  voyager  passed 
the  silent  places  where  stand  to-day  the  quiet  hamlets 
of  Ste.  Anne  de  Monts,  named  for  another  bold  navi- 
gator as  well  as  in  memory  of  a  saint,  past  Cape  Chat, 
Metis,  the  favourite  resort  of  romantic  lovers,  Rimouski, 
noted  for  its  cathedrals,  picturesque  Bic,  and  many  other 
places  of  modern  interest,  to  stay  his  progress  at  last 
where  a  tremendous  break  appeared  in  the  mountain 
range  on  the  north,  making  a  gigantic  gateway  opening 
into  the  mysterious  region  beyond,  a  fitting  passage  to 
the  underworld. 

He  had  been  looking  for  this  gloomy  passway,  for 
the  Indians  of  Gaspe  had  awakened  his  curiosity  with 
wild  stories  of  marvellous  mines  and  stores  of  gems 
lying  behind  the  rock-wall,  to  be  reached  only  by  a  river 
that  flowed  through  a  cavern.     His  Indians  with  him 


32  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

told  him  this  was  that  river, — the  Saguenay, — and  on  the 
I  St  of  September,  1535,  he  anchored  his  Httle  fleet 
in  St.  Catherine's  Bay  around  Point  Noire.  His  pilots 
told  him  the  country  far  to  the  north  was  inhabited  by 
a  race  with  white  skins,  and  who  clothed  themselves  in 
wool.  Great  wealth  lay  hidden  in  the  earth  in  that 
region.  Seeing  little  evidence  of  it  here,  and  having 
little  relish  to  brave  the  frown  of  the  hills  about  him 
by  entering  the  silence  of  the  sublime  gateway,  Cartier 
speedily  headed  up  the  river,  until  at  last  he  came  in 
sight  of  that  rocky  escarpment  which  was  the  site  of  the 
first  settlement  of  natives  he  had  seen  since  entering 
the  river.  This  he  was  told  was  the  "  great  town  of 
Stadacone,"  where  dwelt  the  mighty  chief  Donnacona 
and  his  followers.  He  saw  only  a  cluster  of  bark  camps 
covering  the  rocky  outpost  of  barbarism,  clothed  in  the 
majesty  of  supreme  silence  and  breathing  the  stern 
poetry  of  the  wilderness. 

Passing  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  which  so  abounded 
with  grapes  that  he  named  it  the  Isle  of  Bacchus,  the 
ships,  which  already  had  awakened  the  keenest  interest 
of  the  dusky  watchers  on  the  lookout,  glided  to  anchor- 
age. In  an  incredibly  short  time  the  water  swarmed 
with  the  birch-bark  boats  of  these  amazed  Indians,  who 
climbed  upon  the  decks  of  the  new-comers  with  undis- 
guised curiosity,  even  the  chief  forgetting  the  dignity 
of  his  kingly  position  and  joining  his  rabble  of  followers 
in  their  childish  wonder  at  the  strangers,  who  they 
were  inclined  to  believe  were  superior  beings.     A  few 


RIVIERE  DU  LOUP  FALLS. 


The  Lower  St.  Lawrence  33 

trinkets,  some  wine  and  cake,  were  sufficient  to  secure 
their  friendship,  and  without  loss  of  time  Cartier,  with 
a  few  chosen  companions,  approached  the  rocky  pro- 
montory in  a  boat,  soon  reaching  that  harbour  which  has 
since  been  the  port  of  so  many  inland  ships.  Guided 
by  the  dusky  natives  he  made  the  summit  by  a  circuit- 
ous path,  when  for  the  first  time  upon  record  a  Euro- 
pean gazed  upon  that  wonderful  panorama  of  country 
unfolded  to  this  day  to  him  who  stands  upon  the  em- 
battled heights.  He  saw,  as  one  sees  to-day,  far  below 
him  the  harbour,  sparkling  like  a  silver  buckler  in  the  clear 
northern  light ;  beyond,  the  bold  front  of  Cap  Tour- 
mente  ;  on  the  north  and  east  he  looked  upon  a  crescent 
of  primeval  forest  where  we  look  calmly  down  upon  the 
farms  of  peaceful  people,  framed  in  now,  as  then,  by  the 
mountains  whose  blue  vies  with  the  azure  of  the  horizon  ; 
on  the  south-east,  with  the  Isle  of  Orleans  forever 
breasting  the  current  of  the  mighty  river  a  little  to  the 
left,  he  gazed  upon  the  unpeopled  highlands  of  Point 
Levi ;  from  above,  and  of  greater  interest  to  him  than  all 
else,  moved  the  slow-coming  stream,  bringing  its  tribute 
from  the  o;reat  storehouse  of  the  west.  A  nobler  or  more 
picturesque  expanse  of  country  was  never  disclosed  to 
the  gaze  of  an  explorer.  But  even  he  could  not  fore- 
see that  this  spot  was  to  become  the  site  of  America's 
greatest  fortress,  where  the  proudest  warriors  of  the 
Old  World  were  to  be  marshalled  in  after  years  to 
decide  the  fate  of  the  empire  of  which  he  was  to  lay  the 
corner-stone  of  discovery. 


Chapter  IV 
The  Primitive  Capital  of  Canada 

Cartier  Keeps  up  the  River  to  Hochelaga — Ascends  Mount  Royal — Description  of 
the  Stronghold  of  the  Amerinds — Returns  to  France — Coming  of  Roberval — 
His  Failure — Romance  of  the  Isle  of  Demons. 

CARTIER  had  already  been  informed  that  a 
town  larger  and  of  more  importance  than 
Stadacone  was  situated  farther  up  the  river, 
and  was  known  as  Hochelaga.  Received  here  with 
friendliness,  and  having  a  lingering  hope  in  his  bosom 
that  he  was  still  on  the  broad  road  to  Cathay,  the 
bold  pathfinder  soon  pushed  bravely  ahead,  promis- 
ing the  dusky  chieftain  of  the  town  upon  the  rock  that 
he  should  return.  It  is  possible  this  promise  afforded 
the  aged  king  little  cause  for  rejoicing,  as  it  is  said  that 
he  displayed  evident  feelings  of  relief  when  he  saw  the 
strangers  heading  away  in  the  wake  of  the  westering 
sun.  Be  that  as  it  may,  their  minds  were  too  deeply  en- 
grossed with  the  wonders  of  the  new  land  to  take  into 
consideration  the  effect  their  coming  or  going  might 
have  upon  a  small  confederation  of  untutored  men. 

Upon  the  morning  of  October  2nd  he  was  warned 
of  his  approach  to  the  primitive  capital  of  the  wilder- 
ness by  the  appearance  of  a  great  crowd  of  half-naked 

34 


X    .5 
X   2 


The  Primitive  Capital  of  Canada  35 

natives,  who  rapidly  gathered  along  the  banks  upon 
sighting  them,  and  began  to  display  wild  antics  which 
he  easily  imagined  to  mean  both  surprise  and  welcome. 
In  the  background  was  a  high  eminence  of  land,  and 
at  its  foot  they  saw  fields  of  maize,  melons,  and  beans, 
showing  that  the  people  were  to  a  certain  extent  agri- 
culturists. Some  of  the  early  writers  describe  them,  as 
well  as  those  at  Stadacone,  as  belonging  to  the  Iro- 
quois. Others  say  they  were  Hurons,  It  does  not 
seem  to  matter  which  were  right,  as  another  race  occu- 
pied both  towns  when,  years  later,  Cartier's  successor 
visited  them. 

Cartier  described  his  reception  as  most  cordial  by  the 
natives,  who  seemed  to  look  upon  him  and  his  followers 
as  superior  beings.  The  best  they  had  was  placed 
before  the  visitors,  while  the  sick  and  crippled  were 
brought  to  be  healed.  The  chief  went  so  far  as  to 
place  upon  the  brow  of  Cartier  his  crown  of  wild  vines, 
thus  acknowledging  the  latter  as  his  sovereign. 

The  primitive  town  stood  at  the  base  of  a  hill, 
encircled  by  corn-fields,  with  the  river  and  forest  be- 
yond. The  village  was  surrounded  by  high  palisades, 
after  the  rude  form  of  protection  common  among  the 
Amerinds.  The  following  day,  with  some  of  his  of- 
ficers, and  a  body-guard  of  twenty  men,  Cartier  visited 
the  fortress.  As  they  were  escorted  through  a  gate 
into  the  inclosure  they  found  on  the  inside  a  gal- 
lery built  to  afford  a  vantage-ground  from  which  the 
defenders  could  hurl  missiles  over  the  fence  upon  an 


36  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

attacking  enemy.  A  pile  of  stones  was  placed  to  be  in 
readiness  for  immediate  use.  In  describing  this  strong- 
hold of  these  wildwood  warriors,  Parkman,  in  his  pictur- 
esque language,  says  : 

An  Indian  path  led  them  through  the  forest  which  covered  the 
site  of  Montreal.  The  morning  air  was  chill  and  sharp,  the  leaves 
were  changing  hue,  and  beneath  the  oaks  the  ground  was  thickly 
strewn  with  acorns.  They  soon  met  an  Indian  chief  with  a  party  of 
tribesmen,  or,  as  the  old  narrative  has  it,  "  one  of  the  principal  lords 
of  the  said  city,"  attended  with  a  numerous  retinue.  Greeting  them 
after  the  concise  courtesy  of  the  forest,  he  led  them  to  a  fire 
kindled  by  the  side  of  the  path,  for  their  comfort  and  refreshment* 
seated  them  on  the  earth,  and  made  them  a  long  harangue,  receiving 
in  requital  of  his  eloquence  two  hatchets,  two  knives,  and  a  crucifix, 
the  last  of  which  he  was  invited  to  kiss.  This  done,  they  resumed 
their  march,  and  presently  issued  forth  upon  open  fields,  covered 
far  and  near  with  the  ripened  maize,  its  leaves  rustling,  its  yellow 
grains  gleaming  between  the  parting  husks.  Before  them,  wrapped 
in  forests  painted  by  the  early  frosts,  rose  the  ridgy  back  of  the 
Mountain  of  Montreal,  and  below,  encompassed  with  its  corn-fields, 
lay  the  Indian  town. 

Cartier  spoke  in  glowing  terms  of  the  height  of  land 
behind  this  lodgment,  and  the  thought  of  the  view  from 
its  summit  must  have  been  in  his  mind  during  his  visit 
to  the  palisaded  town,  as  he  improved  an  early  oppor- 
tunity to  make  its  ascent,  led  by  a  few  of  the  red  men, 
and  followed  by  a  mob.  He  had  named  it  at  first  sight 
"  Mont  Royale,"  a  designation  since  easily  transposed 
into  Montreal,  the  name  of  the  city  that  stands  upon  the 
site  of  ancient  Hochelaga,  the  primitive  metropolis  of 


I 


The  Primitive  Capital  of  Canada  37 

the  Canadian  wilds.  From  its  crest  he  looked  out  over 
the  great  green  roof  of  the  boundless  west,  which  was 
for  centuries  the  battle-ground  of  rival  races.  No  voice 
of  prophecy  came  up  to  him  from  the  savage  silence 
saying  that  the  canopied  desert  at  his  feet  was  destined 
to  produce  in  its  time  the  towers,  domes,  and  spires, 
congregated  roofs,  and  bright  walls  of  the  city  of  a 
civilised  people.  While  he  gazed  up  and  down  the 
broad  river  rolling  toward  the  sea,  and  its  tributary,  the 
tumultous  Ottawa, — if  smaller,  scarcely  less  impressive, 
— he  must  have  seen  but  dimly  the  realisation  of  any 
hope  to  reach  that  Cathay,  for  ever  in  the  minds  of  the 
early  voyagers. 

It  was  now  too  late  in  the  season  for  him  to  dally 
longer  here,  as  much  as  he  may  have  wanted  to  do  so, 
and  on  the  iith  of  October  he  was  back  again  at  his 
station  on  the  St.  Charles  River,  just  below  Stadacone, 
and  called  by  him  Havre  de  Sainte  Croix,  in  many 
respects  greatly  pleased  with  his  trip.  He  now  pre- 
pared to  spend  the  coming  winter  here. 

The  experiences  which  followed,  during  what  he 
termed  '*  the  white  winter,"  were  severe  enough  to  have 
discouraged  a  less  energetic  leader.  Soon  after  the  cold 
weather  had  set  in,  which  was  a  revelation  in  itself  to 
these  men  of  France,  a  disease  resembling  the  scurvy 
broke  out  among  the  natives.  This  dread  malady  soon 
spread  among  the  French,  until  there  was  scarcely  a 
man  able  to  keep  about.  Before  the  warm  weather 
brought  relief  twenty-five  had  perished.     Probably  the 


38  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

lives  of  the  survivors  were  saved  by  drinking  a  bever- 
age prepared  by  the  Indians  which  they  called  ameda. 
This  was  supposed  to  have  been  brewed  from  pine 
boughs  and  bark.  Beyond  question  it  had  a  soothing 
and  beneficial  effect. 

With  the  coming  of  spring  the  handful  of  emaciated, 
disheartened  French  found  courage  in  the  thought  of 
returning  to  France,  and  as  soon  as  the  river  began  to 
clear  of  ice  they  prepared  to  make  the  homeward  trip. 
One  of  their  vessels  was  so  badly  disabled  in  coming 
that  it  was  looked  upon  as  quite  unseaworthy.  But 
this  made  little  difference,  as  there  were  really  barely 
men  enough  left  to  man  the  other  two.  So  they  de- 
cided to  give  the  condemned  ship  to  the  natives. 

Feeling  it  his  duty  to  leave  here  some  monument  of 
his  visit,  on  the  3rd  of  May  Cartier  planted  a  new 
cross  upon  the  shore  of  the  river  and  placed  upon  it  a 
notice  of  his  claim  to  the  country  in  the  name  of  his 
king,  couching  his  notice  in  the  following  words : 
"  Francis  Primus,  Dei  Gratia  F rancor  tun  Rex 
Regnat" 

Having  accomplished  this  purpose  he  next  per- 
formed an  act  less  humane.  This  was  nothing  less 
than  the  seizure  of  the  poor  king  of  the  little  band  who 
had  treated  him  in  such  a  friendly  manner  through  the 
most  trying  winter  of  his  life,  and  four  of  his  subjects, 
having  enticed  them  on  board  of  his  ship  under  the 
pretence  of  friendship.  Perhaps  he  excused  this  deed 
to   his   conscience  upon  the  ground  that  it  would  be 


The  Primitive  Capital  of  Canada  39 

necessary  to  have  some  proof  of  the  kind  to  offer  his 
sovereign  at  home. 

Though  indignant  at  this  outrage  the  Indians  offered 
first  to  ransom  their  chieftain.  This  being  firmly  de- 
clined, they  resorted  to  force,  when  Cartier  outwitted 
them  by  compelling  Donnacona  to  stand  up  in  sight  of 
them,  and  declare  that  he  was  not  displeased  with  the 
treatment  given  him.  Another  year  they  might  look  for 
him  back  again,  with  wonderful  stories  to  tell  and  laden 
with  many  beautiful  presents.  These  artful  words,  with 
a  few  simple  presents  flung  to  them,  together  with  the 
proffer  of  the  abandoned  vessel,  so  far  appeased  the  red 
men  that  they  allowed  the  abductors  to  depart  without 
further  molestation. 

This  act  closed  the  more  noteworthy  incidents  of 
Cartier's  second  voyage.  Certainly  this  time  he  had 
not  made  any  discovery  that  was  likely  to  benefit  his 
King.  While  there  had  been  held  up  before  the  gaze 
of  Cartier  at  all  times  the  alluring  picture  of  a  land 
abounding  in  gold  and  precious  gems,  covered  with 
a  forest  filled  with  wonderful  creatures,  not  the  least 
among  them  being  a  race  of  white  men  who  walked  on 
one  leg  and  lived  without  food,  he  had  really  found 
a  country  clothed  most  of  the  time  under  the  white 
mantle  of  winter,  peopled  by  a  race  of  savages ;  and,  if 
he  had  made  strange  discoveries,  he  had  reaped  a  whirl- 
wind of  disease  and  disappointment.  So  his  mind  was 
not  wholly  free  from  trouble,  any  more  than  the  abused 
king  and  his  companions  who  had  accompanied  him  as 


40  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

captives,  the  one  party  looking  back  with  bitter  regret 
at  the  cabin  walls  they  were  never  to  look  upon  again, 
and  the  other  with  mingled  joy  and  sadness  upon  the 
lonesome  emblem  of  Christianity  entwined  with  the 
fleur-de-lis  of  their  native  land,  all  they  had  left  to 
speak  of  their  year  of  hardships. 

Cartier  designated  the  stream  which  he  had  dis- 
covered "the  river  of  Hochelaga,"  or  "the  great  river 
of  Canada."  The  former  term  was  no  doubt  an  Indian 
word,  applied  by  them  to  a  collection  of  cabins  or  wig- 
wams ;  as  we  should  use  it,  a  town  or  villap;e.  In  the 
journal  of  this  voyage  he  says  explicitly,  ''Ills  appellent 
ttne  ville  Canada''  This  word  belonged  to  the  Iroquois 
tongue,  with  this  meaning,  and  it  was  the  same  in  the 
speech  of  the  Mohawks,  which  was  a  dialect  of  the 
other.  Cartier  limited  the  application  of  the  name 
"  Canada "  to  the  country  about  Stadacone,  while  he 
designated  that  below  as  "  the  country  of  the  Saguenay," 
and  that  above  as  "  Hochelaga."  ^ 

In  his  description  of  the  river  he  had  discovered  the 
voyager  from  St.  Malo  declared  it  was  "the  greatest 
river  that  is  ever  to  have  been  seen."     So  his  narrative 


'  The  cartographer  Ortelius  published  in  1572-73  a  map  of  America,  upon  which 
he  applied  the  name  of  "  Saguenai  "  to  the  country  about  the  river  which  still  bears 
that  name  ;  "  Canada,"  to  the  country'  above  and  reaching  to  the  Ottawa  ;  "  Mos- 
cosa,"  to  the  district  south  of  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  east  of  the 
Richelieu;  "  Chilaga  "  (Hochelaga),  that  near  the  mouth  of  the  Ottawa  ;  "Avacal," 
to  the  south  and  west  of  the  Moscosa  country  ;  "  Norumbega,"  to  Maine  and 
New  Brunswick.  lie  followed  others  in  giving  the  name  of  New  France  to 
all  of  North  and  South  America. 


i 


I 


The  Primitive  Capital  of  Canada  41 

flashes  out  with  wild  visions  of  the  country,  the  whole 
inflated  with  superstition,  which  was  a  prevalent  leaven- 
ing in  the  accounts  from  most  of  the  explorers  of  that 
period.  He  brought,  too,  specimens  of  the  gold  and 
diamonds  that  were  said  to  abound  so  plentifully  in 
the  land.  But  his  former  patron,  Charbot,  had  fallen 
into  trouble ;  his  King  had  all  he  could  do  to  look 
after  his  wars  and  affairs  nearer  home.  His  "gold" 
proved  spurious ;  his  "  diamonds,"  valueless  quartz. 
So  Cartier's  account  did  not  find  sufficient  response  to 
enable  him  to  return  on  his  third  voyage,  as  he  had 
hoped.  In  fact,  so  slowly  did  the  importance  of  his 
discovery  impress  itself  upon  the  King  and  his  subjects 
that  it  was  not  until  1 544  that  the  first  fruit  of  his  work 
appeared  as  a  map,  while  the  narrative  of  his  second 
voyage  was  not  published  till  a  year  later.  Neither 
seemed  to  have  afforded  the  Government  any  satisfac- 
tion, and  the  publication  of  both  was  not  only  suspended, 
but  all  copies  that  had  been  put  out  which  could  be  found 
were  secured  and  destroyed.  It  is  now  supposed  that 
only  one  copy  of  the  map  and  his  Bref  Rdcit  of  1 545 
have  been  preserved.  The  first  of  these  is  to  be  found 
in  the  Library  of  Paris,  having  been  recovered  in 
Germany,  and  the  other  still  exists  in  the  British 
Museum.  (Parenthetically,  it  may  not  be  out  of  place 
to  say  that  the  map  is  believed  by  some  to  be  a  copy 
of  the  original.)  It  was  in  reality  sixteen  years  after 
Cartier  had  completed  his  voyages  that  the  French 
people   were    made    acquainted   with    his    work,    and 


42  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

then  through  an  Itahan  author  named  Giambattista 
Ramusio. 

In  the  meantime  Cartier  was  not  inactive.  At  Fon- 
tainebleau,  January  15,  1540,  Francis  signed  the  papers 
which  made  one  of  his  favourites,  Jean  Francois  de  la 
Roche,  a  Picard  seigneur  better  known  by  the  designa- 
tion of  his  vast  estate  as  Roberval,  Vice-Royal  over 
the  country  discovered  by  Cartier.  What  was  of  more 
importance  than  this,  he  placed  to  his  credit  45,000 
livres.  Even  under  such  encouragement  this  nobleman 
from  Picardy  dallied  so  with  starting  upon  his  enter- 
prise that  the  King  felt  obliged  to  return  to  Cartier, 
whom  he  had  neglected,  and  he  appointed  him  pilot  and 
captain-general  of  the  expedition.  The  latter  showed 
that  he  was  equal  to  the  trust,  and,  though  Roberval 
still  delayed,  on  the  23rd  of  May,  1541,  Cartier,  in  com- 
mand of  three  vessels,  set  sail  on  his  third  voyage, 
leaving  his  superior  to  follow  at  his  leisure. 

Again  he  met  with  a  stormy  passage  of  the  Atlantic, 
and  his  ships  were  scattered,  but  fortunately  reunited 
before  making  the  "great  river."  For  the  second  time 
he  drew  near  the  tower  of  rock  overlookinsf  the  foam- 
flecked  water  at  its  base.  There  had  been  no  apparent 
change  in  the  scene.  On  the  summit  of  this  natural 
lookout,  commanding  a  wide  view  of  the  surrounding 
country,  under  the  oak  and  walnut  trees,  still  stood  the 
primitive  dwellings  of  the  people  who  were  the  keepers 
of  the  wilderness.  It  was  evident  they  had  been  look- 
ing for  him  a  long  time,  and  had  discovered  the  sails  of 


The  Primitive  Capital  of  Canada  43 

his  caravels  from  afar,  as  they  flocked  upon  the  shore 
and  swam  out  to  meet  him  as  he  drew  near.  Their 
first  demand  was  to  meet  their  King,  whom  they  had 
missed  for  over  five  years. 

Cartier  told  the  truth  when  he  informed  them  that 
he  was  dead,  adding,  as  a  saving  grace,  that  he  had  died 
strong  in  the  faith  of  the  white  man's  religion.  The 
French  captain  dared  not  risk  too  much  upon  the  truth, 
so  he  denied  that  the  others  had  also  fallen  victims  to 
disease,  but  declared  that  they  lived,  had  married  white 
women,  and  were  so  well  contented  with  their  new 
life  that  they  had  refused  to  come  back.  They  had, 
however,  sent  kindly  greetings  to  their  old  companions. 
These  answers  served  their  purpose,  though  the  astute 
commander  could  see  that  he  had  lost  largely  the  confi- 
dence of  the  red  men. 

This  time  he  selected  a  harbour  twelve  miles  farther 
up  the  river,  near  Cap  Rouge,  where  he  established  a 
fort  he  named  Charlesbourg.  Rumours  reached  him  of 
an  intended  attack  on  the  part  of  the  Iroquois  at  Hoche- 
laga,  and,  while  these  did  not  prove  true,  he  passed  a 
rather  uncomfortable  season.  As  soon  as  their  fortifica- 
tions were  completed,  leaving  the  command  here  with 
one  of  his  trusty  followers,  Cartier  started  up  the  river 
with  two  boats  to  continue  the  exploration  he  had  begun 
on  his  previous  voyage.  His  discoveries  did  not  add 
materially  to  his  knowledge,  but  it  was  late  in  October 
when  he  returned,  to  find  his  followers  gloomy  and 
distrustful.     Nothing  had  been  seen  of  Roberval ;    the 


44  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Indians  had  continued  to  hold  aloof,  if  not  displaying 
open  hostilities  ;  and  with  the  winter  already  setting  in, 
it  was  natural  a  spirit  of  homesickness  should  prevail. 
Nothing  more  hopeful,  however,  could  be  done  than  to 
wait  until  spring,  when  their  leader  promised  them  to 
return  to  France. 

Fortunately  they  were  better  prepared  for  the  cold 
weather  than  on  the  previous  occasion,  while  the  winter 
seems  to  have  been  less  severe.  At  any  rate  they 
apparently  suffered  less,  and  another  May-day  found 
them  sailing  once  more  down  the  river  on  their  home- 
ward voyage.  Again  the  grand  scenery  of  the  lower 
St.  Lawrence  was  passed,  the  rocky  islets  nearly  hidden 
behind  clouds  of  screaming  sea-fowls  left  behind,  and 
their  staunch  little  ships  stood  boldly  down  the  gulf. 
Upon  approaching  the  harbour  of  St.  John,  whither 
they  had  been  attracted  by  several  fishing  vessels  lying 
at  anchor,  Cartier  was  taken  aback  to  discover  the  fleet 
of  Roberval,  who  had  left  France  upon  the  i6th  of 
April,  with  three  ships  and  two  hundred  colonists. 

Cartier  was  quickly  ordered  to  retrace  his  course,  the 
Viceroy  assuring  him  that,  with  the  large  number  of 
colonists  aboard  his  ships,  little  trouble  would  be  exper- 
ienced in  establishing  a  settlement.  But  the  homeward- 
bound  Breton,  for  reasons  of  his  own,  had  no  mind  to 
return  to  Stadacone.  Wisely  keeping  his  peace,  under 
cover  of  the  following  night  he  stole  away  toward  the  open 
sea,  leaving  his  superior  to  continue  his  expedition  as 
he  chose. 


The  Primitive  Capital  of  Canada  45 

Upon  finding  that  he  had  been  deserted,  Roberval 
resumed  his  course  steering  toward  the  Strait  of  Belle 
Isle,  passing  on  the  way  those  ill-fated  piles  of  rocks 
denominated  "  the  Isle  of  Demons,"  believed  by  the  abo- 
rigines to  have  been  from  time  immemorial  the  abode 
of  a  giant,  with  more  of  the  monster  than  of  the 
human,  and  his  satellites,  who  lived  upon  children  and 
young  women.  Over  the  ill-fated  place  hovered,  in  the 
forms  of  birds  and  beasts,  the  spirits  of  the  slain,  forever 
haunting  the  dead  slayers.  It  seemed  destined  that  the 
French  explorer  was  to  add  another  wonder  tale  to  the 
gruesome  list  already  accumulated.  This  time  it  was  a 
love  romance,  which  doubtless  had  some  groundwork  of 
reality,  as  it  is  told  with  great  gravity  by  the  historian 
of  this  expedition,  M.  Thevet.  Shorn  of  its  supersti- 
tious adornments  the  story  runs  somewhat  as  follows : 

Among  the  Viceroy's  passengers  was  his  niece,  an 
extremely  comely  maiden  by  the  name  of  Marguerite, 
who  had  a  lover  upon  the  vessel.  When  this  fact  was 
made  known  to  Roberval  he  was  so  enraged  that  he 
declared  that  she  must  either  forswear  her  lover  or 
suffer  banishment  from  the  ship.  This  she  refused  to 
do,  and  soon  after,  coming  abreast  of  the  haunted  isle, 
he  caused  her  to  be  put  into  a  boat.  Giving  her  four 
arquebuses  with  which  to  defend  herself  from  demons, 
and  a  scanty  allowance  of  food,  she  was  set  adrift, 
accompanied  by  her  old  nurse  who  would  not  be  torn 
from  her.  While  this  was  being  done  her  lover,  prov- 
ing himself  as  faithful  as  she,  managed  to  escape  the 


46  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

watchful  eyes  of  the  commander,  and  followed  her  to 
the  island.  Exulting  over  what  he  had  done,  a  deed 
that  the  old  chroniclers  say  doomed  him  to  everlasting 
disappointment,  Roberval  sailed  on  his  way  up  the  St. 
Lawrence, 

Letting  alone  the  imaginary  perils  from  the  haunting 
demons  ever  trying  to  assail  them,  the  fortunes  of  the 
marooned  lovers,  and  their  faithful  old  friend  were 
extremely  hard  to  bear.  With  their  arquebuses  they 
managed  to  kill  enough  of  the  birds  and  beasts  to  live 
upon  during  the  long  months  that  followed.  Then 
came  the  sufferings  of  the  long,  intense  cold  of  the  winter. 
Then  another  spring,  and  with  it  came  another  life  to 
care  for,  and  the  Crusoes  grew  doubly  anxious.  Wilder 
and  fiercer  than  before  did  the  demons  wage  their 
ceaseless  warfare  to  get  possession  of  the  babe,  which 
they  seemed  to  look  upon  as  their  especial  prey.  But 
the  mother's  heart  was  strong,  and  the  Virgin,  to  whom 
she  prayed  almost  constantly,  had  pity  upon  her.  The 
child  was  spared  for  a  time  to  cheer  their  loneliness, 
but  the  father  lost  courage,  and,  sickening,  died  that 
summer.  As  well  as  they  could  the  two  women  laid 
his  worn-out  form  to  rest.  Soon  after  the  little  one, 
too  innocent  for  such  a  life,  pined  away,  and  its  little 
body  was  laid  beside  that  of  its  father.  The  elder 
woman  lived  through  another  winter,  and  then  she  laid 
down  her  burden,  when  poor  Marguerite  was  left  alone 
with  her  sorrow.  Several  months  later  she  descried  the 
sail  of  a  fishing  vessel,  and,  by  building  a  fire,  finally 


The  Primitive  Capital  of  Canada  47 

succeeded  in  attracting  the  attention  of  the  fishermen, 
who  drew  near  the  island  with  great  reluctance,  until 
they  discovered  the  figure  of  a  woman  in  strange  attire, 
beckoning  frantically  to  them.  So  Marguerite  event- 
ually found  her  way  back  to  France,  where  she  told 
her  strange  story,  and  the  island  became  known  among 
the  French  voyagers  as  "  1'  He  de  la  Demoiselle." 

Whether  or  no  the  curse  of  the  demons  followed 
Roberval  for  his  cruel  treatment  of  his  niece,  whose  only 
sin  seemed  to  have  been  artlessness  in  her  love,  he  and 
his  followers  had  a  sorry  time  of  it  in  the  end.  Cap 
Rouge,  Cartier's  last  stopping-place  was  reached,  and 
here  the  new-comers  built  their  rude  fort,  patterned 
roughly  after  some  Old -World  castle,  the  while  the 
dusky  inhabitants  of  the  country  looked  on  with 
askance.  Well  they  might,  had  they  been  invested 
with  higher  intellect,  for  never  was  there  a  stranger 
compound  of  human  beings  than  those  gathered  there 
under  one  roof :  ofhcers  and  soldiers,  artisans  and 
sailors,  noblemen  and  felons,  women  and  children,  for 
the  first  time  undertaking  their  important  part  in  the 
colonisation  of  the  New  World. 

If  they  had  builded  well  in  their  minds  they  soon 
found  experience  to  be  a  hard  taskmaster.  If  they  had 
shown  good  judgment  in  preparations  of  defence,  they 
had  overlooked  a  matter  of  even  more  importance. 
This  was  in  the  matter  of  provisions.  Two  vessels  were 
sent  back  to  France  with  the  proud  tidings  of  their 
successful  beginninor  in  colonisation,   but    the   sails  of 


48  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

the  outgoing  caravels  had  barely  faded  from  the  blue 
expanse  of  the  distant  St.  Lawrence  before  they  dis- 
covered that  the  supply  of  food  was  wofully  short.  So 
winter  and  famine  came  hand  in  hand,  the  horrors  of 
which  outweighed  the  "white  winter"  of  Cartier,  in- 
asmuch as  a  goodly  portion  of  this  band  of  sufferers 
were  fair  women  and  helpless  little  ones.  Again  the 
Indians  came  tardily  to  the  rescue,  selling  them  fish, 
and  digging  roots  for  them,  which  they  boiled  in  whale 
oil.  Disease  was  inevitable,  doubling  the  horror,  and 
had  it  not  been  for  the  iron  hand  of  Roberval  it  is  not 
impossible  but  the  immigrants  would  have  torn  each 
other  like  a  pack  of  wolves.  So  sorely  were  they 
pressed  that  the  old  narrative  says  the  hearts  of  the 
Indians  were  stirred  to  pity.  The  balance  of  the 
account,  if  ever  written,  is  lost.  It  could  not  be  pleasant 
reading. 

Cartier  had  returned  to  France,  and  the  following 
spring,  1544,  the  King,  getting  anxious  over  the  pro- 
tracted absence  of  his  favourite,  sent  Cartier  to  find  him. 
The  latter  was  successful  in  so  far  that  he  succeeded 
in  bringing  back  to  France  a  handful  of  wretched 
survivors  of  an  expedition  which  had  set  forth  with 
such  enthusiasm  and  under  such  auspicious  circum- 
stances. Of  the  fate  of  Roberval  there  are  conflicting 
accounts.  That  he  was  among  those  rescued  by  Cartier 
is  certain.  One  writer  says  that  he  had  not  got  his  sur- 
feit of  experience  in  the  new  country,  and  that  in  1549, 
after  the  death  of  Francis  the  First,  accompanied  by  his 


The  Primitive  Capital  of  Canada  49 

brother  Achille,  he  made  another  voyage,  landing  this 
time  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay.  From  here  the 
natives  declare  that  he  and  his  men  passed  up  this 
river,  but  never  came  back,  and  that  they  are  wandering 
yet  somewhere  in  the  interior.  Another  says  he  was 
killed  in  a  mob  in  Paris.  The  latter  is  doubtless  right, 
though  he  may  have  undertaken  a  second  voyage  to 
the  St.  Lawrence. 

Cartier  had  made  his  last  voyage  to  America.  His 
King,  in  recognition  of  his  valuable  services,  gave  him 
a  manor  on  the  coast  shortly  removed  from  St.  Malo, 
where  he  seems  to  have  passed  his  remaining  years 
contented  and  peaceful.  He  died  September  i,  1557. 
Among  the  sea-rovers  and  wonder-seekers  of  his  age, 
when  adventurous  voyagers  and  daring  explorers  were 
braving  the  perils  of  the  trackless  oceans,  no  one  ranks 
higher  among  the  French.  While  he  had  not  estab- 
lished a  single  colonist  in  the  vast  country  claimed  by 
his  King,  to  him  belongs,  more  than  to  any  other  man, 
the  honour  of  leading  the  way  in  that  colonisation  which 
was  to  awaken  Europe  to  the  possibilities  of  the  new 
continent. 


Chapter  V 
The  Coming  of  Champlain 

New  Interest  in  France  for  America — Beginning  of  the  Fur-Trade — Champlain, 
Pontgrave,  and  De  Monts  Appear  on  the  Scene — The  Lost  Colonists — Settle- 
ment of  St.  Croix — First  Blows  for  Quebec. 

IT  is  not  necessary  to  dwell  upon  the  successive  ex- 
plorations that  followed  in  the  wake  of  Cartier,  as 
none  of  them  were  of  lasting  importance  until  we 
come  to  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth  century. 
France  had  quite  as  much  on  hand  as  she  could  well 
look  after  during  the  latter  half  of  the  sixteenth  century. 
Great  Britain  was  now  bending  her  energies  toward 
establishing  a  foothold  in  America.  This  aroused 
Henry  the  Fourth  of  France  to  action,  and  the  struggle 
between  the  rival  Powers  to  gain  the  prize  of  the  new 
country  began  in  earnest. 

By  this  it  must  not  be  supposed  that  the  interval 
had  been  wholly  a  waiting  time.  The  Norman  and 
Breton  fishermen  had  continued  to  ply  their  vocation. 
The  sight  of  their  sails  was  a  common  occurrence  to  the 
Indians,  and  they  often  sought  them  with  their  spoils 
of  the  hunt,  eager  to  barter  these  for  such  trinkets  and 
gewgaws  as  the  strangers  might  offer  them.  In  this 
way  began  an  industry  which  was  to  supplant  in  a  large 

50 


4 


I 


The  Coming  of  Champlain  51 

measure  the  craft  of  fishing.  Here  were  possibiHties 
the  other  calHng  did  not  hold  forth,  with  far  less  of 
danger  and  uncertainty.  Among  the  early  fur-traders 
we  find  two  nephews  of  Cartier.  The  seekers  after 
bearskins  and  beaver  pelts  built  rude  huts  for  their 
comfort  on  the  inhospitable  shores  of  Anticosti,  while 
others  went  up  the  river  as  far  as  Tadousac.  But 
in  the  infancy  of  this  enterprise  bitter  jealousies  and 
intense  rivalries  entered,  until  these  fortune  -  seekers 
not  only  abused  the  dusky  hunters  upon  whom  they 
depended  for  their  wares,  but  they  abused  each  other. 

The  attention  of  men  of  speculative  minds  at  home 
was  attracted  by  the  gaining  of  a  monopoly  of  the 
business  for  twelve  years  by  the  two  Cartiers,  who 
seemed  to  possess  something  of  the  indomitable  spirit  of 
their  uncle.  Finally,  at  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth 
century,  an  enterprising  merchant  of  St.  Malo,  named 
Fran9ois  Grave,  but  commonly  spoken  of  as  Pontgrave, 
undertook  to  colonise  and  explore  the  country  upon 
his  own  account,  with  an  eye  to  the  profits  of  the  fur- 
trade.  He  engaged  as  an  associate  one  M.  Chauvin. 
Pontgrave  made  two  successful  voyages,  ascending  the 
St.  Lawrence  as  far  as  Three  Rivers.  Then,  in  1603, 
his  partner  died.  They  had  already  enlisted  in  their 
interest  another  in  the  person  of  Pierre  du  Gaust, 
Sieur  de  Monts,  a  Gentleman  of  the  Bedchamber  to 
Henry  the  Fourth.  Through  his  influence  a  patent  was 
obtained  allowing  the  exclusive  trade  of  the  territory 
between  the  40th  and  54th  degrees  of  latitude. 


52  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

De  Monts  immediately  began  to  fit  out  an  expedition 
equal  to  the  purpose  in  hand.  Even  while  this  was 
being  done,  another,  with  a  commission  from  the  King 
in  his  pocket,  was  sailing  up  the  St.  Lawrence  with 
the  destiny  of  New  France,  in  spite  of  all  others,  in  his 
keeping.  His  name  is  one  we  shall  not  forget,  as  there 
is  scarcely  an  incident  in  the  following  years  with  which 
it  is  not  connected.  He  was  a  native  of  a  small  seaport 
of  Brouage  on  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  in  his  thirty-sixth  year, 
a  captain  in  the  royal  navy,  a  favourite  of  King  Henry 
the  Fourth,  fresh  from  adventures  in  the  West  Indies. 
Fortunately  his  activity,  daring,  and  enterprise  were 
equalled  by  his  firmness,  honesty,  and  cheerfulness.  No 
one  understood  better  than  he  how  to  relieve  the  tedium 
of  a  long  sea  voyage  of  that  day,  and  no  one  seemed  to 
exercise  better  judgment  in  following  up  his  explora- 
tions and  in  founding  his  settlements.  Always  faithful 
to  the  charge  reposed  in  him  by  his  patrons,  he  was 
just  to  those  who  crossed  his  path.  In  addition  to  the 
good  qualities  mentioned  and  many  others,  none  of 
which  were  too  abundant  in  those  trying  days,  he  wrote 
with  a  fluent  and  accurate  pen,  carefully  recording 
all  that  he  saw  and  did.  He  was  a  Catholic  without 
being  bigoted  ;  a  soldier  without  being  tyrannical ;  the 
one  man  equal  to  the  task  of  founding  an  empire  in 
the  dream  of  New  France.  Perhaps  enough  has  been 
said  to  recognise  the  sturdy  figure  of  Samuel  de 
Champlain. 

With  him  was  Pontgrave,  who  had  yielded  some- 


SAMUEL  DE  CHAMPLAIN. 
From  the  O'Niel  copy  of  the  Hamel  Painting. 


The  Coming  of  Champlain  53 

what  his  ambition  to  De  Chatte  or  Du  Chaste,  who  had 
obtained  a  patent,  and,  as  Champlain  says  in  his  jour- 
nal, "  though  his  head  was  crowned  with  grey  hairs  as 
with  years,  he  resolved  to  proceed  to  New  France  in 
person,  and  dedicate  the  rest  of  his  days  to  the  service 
of  God  and  his  King." 

With  the  memory  of  the  little  colony  of  sixteen  that 
Chauvin  had  left  a  year  before  to  found  a  trading  post 
at  Tadousac  in  his  mind,  Pontgrave  desired  to  stop  at 
that  place.  Reaching  here  without  mishap,  they  found 
the  mountains  capped  with  fog,  and  the  mist  hanging 
low  over  the  broad  expanse  of  water,  but  the  only  sign 
of  life  which  greeted  their  gaze  was  the  sportive  por- 
poises at  play  in  the  silver-crested  waves.  A  rocky 
point  reaching  out  to  the  south-west  formed  the  outer 
wall  of  the  bay,  in  which  their  vessels  could  find 
anchorage.  Down  from  among  the  deep  shadows  of 
the  lofty  crags,  whence  the  dusky  canoeists  had  been 
wont  to  come  with  their  freights  of  furs,  rolled  un- 
peopled the  dark  Saguenay.  From  out  of  the  solitude 
of  the  place  no  friendly  voice  greeted  them ;  no  hearty 
welcome  from  men  who  had  long  waited  for  their 
coming.  Of  all  of  Chauvin's  little  band  of  colonists,  not 
one  was  ever  found.  It  was  learned  from  the  Indians 
afterwards  that  a  portion  had  perished  of  famine  or 
disease,  and  the  others  had  gone  into  the  interior  of 
the  country  in  comradeship  with  some  of  their  race. 

As  eager  to  escape  this  bleak  shore  as  his  com- 
panion, Pontgrave  gladly  consented  to  have  Champlain 


54  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

hold  his  course  resolutely  up  the  St.  Lawrence,  looking 
in  vain  for  evidence  of  the  native  population  that  Car- 
tier  had  found  sixty-eight  years  before.  Solitude  reigned 
primeval  on  every  hand.  The  rock  of  Stadacone  was 
desolate  of  its  bark  cabins,  and  when  they  had  come 
under  the  dome  of  Mont  Royale  they  looked  in  vain 
for  the  palisaded  walls  of  ancient  Hochelaga.  A  few 
Indians,  of  a  different  tribe  from  those  who  had  occu- 
pied the  town,  were  roving  about  the  region,  like 
shadows  haunting  some  beautiful  vale.  These  greeted 
them  with  friendly  frankness,  and  in  answer  to  the  ques- 
tions of  Champlain,  traced  for  him  upon  pieces  of  bark 
rude  outlines  of  the  river  above,  with  its  rapids,  lakes, 
cataracts,  and  islands.  Then,  finding  himself  baffled  in 
his  attempt  to  ascend  the  chain  of  rapids,  the  indomit- 
able explorer  was  fain  to  retrace  his  course  down  the 
river,  delaying,  rather  than  abandoning,  his  resolution 
to  penetrate  the  mysteries  of  the  country  that  lay 
beyond. 

Upon  reaching  Havre  de  Grace  the  weather-beaten 
voyagers  learned  with  sorrow  that  their  commander, 
De  Chatte,  was  dead.  Already  Sieur  de  Monts  had 
obtained  his  grant  and  been  made  Lieutenant-General 
of  the  vast  territory  stretching  from  the  St.  Lawrence 
to  Cape  May,  known  under  the  name  of  L' Acadie. 
Though  the  apparent  purpose  was  to  colonise  the  new 
country  and  Christianise  the  aborigines,  it  was  known 
to  be  a  gigantic  monopoly  of  the  fur-trade.  Hence  the 
merchants  of  St.  Malo,  Rouen,  Dieppe,  and  Rochelle, 


The  Coming  of  Champlain  55 

all  of  which  had  been  sendino^  out  their  claimants  for 
these  privileges,  raised  such  a  remonstrance  that  De 
Monts  was  fain  to  include  in  his  corporation  De  Chatte's 
company. 

De  Monts  set  forth  upon  his  mission  in  four  ships 
upon  the  7th  of  April,  1604,  taking  Champlain  along  as 
pilot,  and  leaving  Pontgrave  to  follow  with  supplies. 
Champlain's  narrative  goes  on  to  describe  the  incongru- 
ous medley  of  passengers  that  De  Monts  took  with  him  to 
begin  his  colonisation.  Along  with  noblemen,  the  most 
prominent  of  whom  was  the  Baron  de  Poutrincourt, 
were  the  occupants  of  prisons ;  with  Catholic  priests 
were  Huguenot  ministers,  for  De  Monts  was  a  Calvinist, 
though  he  pledged  himself  to  convert  the  Indians  ac- 
cording to  the  rites  of  the  Church  of  Rome.  Showing 
themselves  to  be  more  human  than  divine,  these  last 
fell  to  arguing  on  questions  of  faith,  and  from  angry 
words  often  came  to  blows. 

Having  had  a  taste  of  the  more  northern  clime,  De 
Monts  did  not  steer  directly  for  the  St.  Lawrence,  but, 
shaping  his  course  more  southerly,  entered  the  Bay  of 
Fundy,  on  the  northern  shore  of  the  peninsula  of  Nova 
Scotia,  where  he  established  a  post  that  afterwards 
became  the  site  of  Port  Royal.  Poutrincourt  was  so 
pleased  with  the  country  that  he  asked  for  a  grant,  that 
he  might  settle  here  v/ith  his  family.  De  Monts,  with 
half  a  continent  at  his  disposal,  could  well  afford  to  part 
with  this  plot.  With  singular  infelicity  De  Monts  se- 
lected for  the  site  of  his  capital  an  island  at  the  mouth 


56  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

of  the  River  St.  Croix,  giving  the  name  the  stream  now 
bears  to  his  capital  in  the  wilderness.  Before  winter 
had  set  in  willing  hands  had  constructed  a  row  of  houses 
around  a  square,  where  a  solitary  tree  had  been  left 
standing.  In  this  square  were  the  storehouses,  a  maga- 
zine for  the  powder,  workshops,  and  lodgings.  De 
Monts  had  built  a  more  pretentious  dwelling  for  himself, 
and  Champlain  had  followed  his  example.  This  was 
barely  completed  when  November's  chill  blasts  began  to 
warn  them  of  what  was  to  come.  PontQ^rave  had  come 
and  gone  to  trade  with  the  natives  at  Tadousac.  Now 
Poutrincourt  started  for  France,  promising  to  return  in 
the  spring.  This  left  De  Monts's  little  colony  by  itself. 
Says  Parkman,  in  describing  the  situation  : 

From  the  Spanish  settlements  northward  to  the  pole,  no  domestic 
hearth,  no  lodgment  of  civilised  men  through  all  the  borders  of 
America,  save  one  weak  band  of  Frenchmen,  clinging,  as  it  were  for 
life,  to  the  fringe  of  the  vast  and  savage  continent.  The  grey  and 
sullen  autumn  sank  upon  the  waste,  and  the  bleak  wind  howled 
down  the  St.  Croix,  and  swept  the  forest  bare.  Then  the  whirling 
snow  powdered  the  vast  sweep  of  desolate  woodland,  and  shrouded 
in  white  the  gloomy  green  of  the  pine-clad  mountains.  Ice  in 
sheets,  or  broken  masses,  swept  by  their  island  with  the  ebbing  and 
flowing  tide,  often  debarring  all  access  to  the  mainland,  and  cutting 
off  their  supplies  of  wood  and  water.  A  belt  of  cedars,  indeed, 
hedged  the  island;  but  De  Monts  had  ordered  them  to  be  spared, 
that  the  north  wind  might  spend  something  of  its  force  with  whist- 
ling through  their  shaggy  boughs.  Cider  and  wine  froze  in  the 
casks,  and  were  served  out  by  the  pound.  As  they  crowded  around 
their  half-fed  fires,  shivering  in  the  icy  currents  that  pierced  their 
rude  tenements,  many  sank  into  a  desperate  apathy. 

That  disease  which  proved  such  a  scourge  to  the 
colonists,  scurvy,  before  spring  had  claimed  as  Its  victims 


The  Coming  of  Champlain  57 

thirty-five  out  of  the  seventy-nine.  The  survivors,  mere 
wrecks  of  humanity,  now  thought  only  of  the  promised 
succour.  In  this  respect  they  were  not  disappointed. 
On  the  1 6th  of  June  Pontgrave  reached  them  with  a 
reinforcement  of  forty  men,  and,  what  was  yet  more 
needed,  a  supply  of  provisions. 

De  Monts  now  lost  no  time  in  pushing  the  explora- 
tion which  he  had  begun  so  anxiously.  Champlain,  who 
had  been  the  one  among  them  to  face  without  flinching 
their  desperate  situation  during  the  long,  bitter  winter, 
had  the  previous  fall  explored  the  adjoining  country  to 
a  considerable  extent,  making  a  detailed  account  of  what 
he  saw.  His  commander,  hoping  to  find  some  more  de- 
sirable place  to  remove  to,  taking  Champlain  along  with 
him,  besides  several  of  his  most  distinguished  compan- 
ions, a  crew  of  twenty  sailors,  and  an  Indian  pilot,  in  a 
bark  of  twenty  tons,  sailed  down  the  coast  of  Maine  and 
Massachusetts  as  far  as  Cape  Cod,  which  they  named 
Cap  Blanc.  Landing  almost  daily,  the  natives  had 
treated  them  upon  friendly  terms,  until  one  day  a  party 
of  sailors,  in  seeking  for  a  fresh  supply  of  water,  lost  the 
kettle  which  they  had  taken  with  them.  Three  or  four 
Indians  had  followed  them,  and  these  they  accused  of 
stealing  it.  Enraged  at  this,  the  natives  fired  upon  the 
sailors,  killing  one.  Immediately  the  crew  upon  the 
ship  opened  a  volley  upon  the  Indians.  The  arque- 
buse  of  Champlain  burst,  and  he  barely  escaped  being 
killed.  The  red  men  on  the  shore  fled  with  nimble 
feet,  and  escaped  uninjured.     Others,  who  had  been  on 


58  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

board  of  the  vessel  at  the  breaking  out  of  the  unfor- 
tunate occurrence,  sprang  overboard,  and  all  escaped 
excepting  one,  who  was  afterwards  released. 

Provisions  now  were  running  low,  and  De  Monts 
prudently  steered  toward  his  infant  settlement,  ill-pleased 
with  the  prospect  he  had  found.  No  place  suited  him 
as  well  as  the  region  he  had  so  freely  granted  to  Pou- 
trincourt,  and  he  resolved  to  remove  thither.  Arriving 
at  St.  Croix  in  August,  he  lost  no  time  in  carrying  out 
the  plan  of  removal,  as  he  knew  only  too  well  he  had 
scanty  time  in  which  to  make  the  change  before  winter 
should  set  in.  While  he  was  doings  this  a  messenger 
came  from  France  to  inform  him  that  rivals  were  en- 
deavouring to  steal  the  rights  of  his  company.  Leaving 
Pontgrave  to  take  the  command  of  the  new  settlement 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Annapolis,  called  by  them 
the  Esquille,  and  by  others,  afterwards,  the  Dauphin,  he 
set  sail  for  France.  Champlain  and  others  of  his  faith- 
ful followers  offered  to  remain  and  brave  the  rigours  of 
another  winter.  Fortunately  these  were  not  as  severe 
as  those  of  the  preceding  season,  but  the  next  news 
that  reached  them  from  France  was  the  discouraging 
fact  that  De  Monts  had  been  deprived  of  his  grant. 
Hence  Champlain  and  his  companions  returned  to  their 
homeland. 

If  baffled  for  a  time,  the  indefatigable  De  Monts 
soon  recovered  a  portion  of  what  he  had  lost.  Upon 
the  advice  of  Pontgrave  and  Champlain  he  sought  for 
and  obtained  a  monopoly  of  the  fur-trade  for  one  year. 


The  Coming  of  Champlain  59 

The  plan  was,  for  the  first,  to  revive  the  old  trading 
station  at  Tadousac,  and,  for  the  latter,  to  establish  a 
new  station  farther  inland. 

Two  small  vessels  sufficed  for  this  expedition,  one 
commanded  by  Pontgrave,  and  which  stopped  at  Tadou- 
sac, as  arranged  ;  the  other  by  Champlain,  which  can 
claim  the  distinction  of  carrying  to  New  France  the 
pioneer  colony.  He  sailed  from  Honfleur  on  the  13th 
day  of  April,  1608.  This  was  a  year  before  Hudson 
sailed  from  Amsterdam  upon  the  voyage  during  which 
he  was  to  discover  the  river  that  bears  his  name,  and 
only  a  year  after  the  founding  of  Jamestown  by  the 
English,  and  which  at  this  very  time  was  undergoing 
such  experiences  as  only  another  of  Champlain's  cour- 
age and  indomitable  will.  Captain  John  Smith,  could 
have  saved  from  utter  failure. 

While  Champlain  was  not  following  a  course  entirely 
new  to  him,  he  having  passed  that  way  five  years  before, 
with  his  deep-seated  love  for  nature  he  scanned  closely 
each  point  of  interest  as  he  sailed  up  the  great  river. 
Leaving  his  companion  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay, 
he  passed  the  lofty  Cap  aux  Corbeaux, which  name  comes 
from  the  dismal  croakings  of  the  innumerable  ravens  as 
they  hover  over  the  jagged  cliffs  and  rock-shelves  be- 
yond the  reach  of  the  most  nimble  climber ;  under  the 
pilotage  of  the  Laurentian  range  he  followed  the  great 
river  up  past  Cartier's  Isle  of  Bacchus,  past  the  shim- 
mering falls  of  Montmorency,  to  which  he  had  given  that 
name  on  his  previous  voyage,  steadily  advancing  until 


6o  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

he  had  entered  that  beautiful  harbour  which  has  since 
become  the  anchorage  of  so  many  fleets  of  vessels  and 
craft  of  varied  descriptions.  His  keen  judgment  had 
already  told  him  that  the  site  pre-eminently  fitted  for 
his  purpose  was  the  deserted  Indian  town  upon  the 
rock.  The  indentation  of  the  river  where  his  ship  had 
come  to  anchor  was  protected  upon  the  south  by  that 
rugged  promotory  since  named  the  Heights  of  Levi, 
and,  on  the  other  hand,  by  the  bold  escarpment  of  Cape 
Diamond.  Under  its  shadow,  on  the  narrow  strip  of 
land  covered  with  its  primeval  growth,  the  founder  of 
the  great  northern  stronghold,  which  was  to  become  the 
centre  of  action  in  New  France  for  one  hundred  and 
fifty  years,  stepped  ashore  and  began  his  work.  The 
very  day  of  his  landing  the  axes  of  his  labourers  broke 
the  solitude  of  the  unpeopled  wilderness,  their  ringing 
sounds  the  speaking  signals  of  civilisation  arrived  at 
last. 


Chapter  VI 
Founding  of  Quebec. 

Champlain's  First  Expedition  against  the  Iroquois — Discovers  Lake  Champlain — 
Scenery — Situation  of  the  Five  Nations — Rout  of  the  Mohawks — Affairs  at 
Quebec — the  Rival  Factors. 

THE  original  Quebec  consisted  plainly  of  a  few 
rough  cabins  such  as  a  party  of  adventurers, 
equipped  with  the  few  implements  at  their  com- 
mand, could  build.  These  were  constructed  in  the  form 
of  an  open  square,  near  the  centre  of  which  Champlain 
placed  on  the  top  of  a  pole  a  dovecote,  emblematical  of 
his  peaceful  intentions.  Around  the  group  of  dwellings 
he  raised  a  wooden  wall,  and  outside  of  this  dug  a  ditch, 
the  few  guns  he  possessed  so  arranged  as  to  command  the 
place.  This  was  a  prudent  policy  to  pursue,  though 
the  deserted  lodges  of  the  people  inhabiting  this  coun- 
try in  the  days  of  Cartier  alone  haunted  the  rock  of 
Stadacone,  and  the  triumphant  cry  of  the  dusky  warrior, 
once  master  of  these  domains,  found  only  a  hopeless 
echo  in  the  dismal  croak  of  the  raven  or  the  howl  of 
the  wolf. 

If  Champlain  had  little  to  fear  outside  of  his  own  fol- 
lowers, it  soon  proved  that  he  had  enemies  within  his 
camp.     Among  his  men  were  those  who  hated  him  for 

6i 


62  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

his  check  on  the  fur-trade,  which  they  looked  upon  as  a 
legitimate  source  of  plunder,  and  a  conspiracy  was  laid 
to  murder  him,  and  get  control  of  affairs.  Fortunately 
not  only  for  the  sake  of  Champlain,  but  for  the  weal  of 
the  little  colony,  this  plot  was  betrayed  by  one  of  its 
tools,  and  the  conspirators  were  treated  with  the  usual 
vigour  of  this  energetic  leader. 

Presently  the  little  settlement  was  visited  by  some 
Indians  from  the  country  to  the  west,  who  frankly  ac- 
knowledged that  they  came  in  the  hope  of  enlisting  the 
"man  with  the  iron  breast,"  as  they  designated  Cham- 
plain,  for  their  ally  in  the  troublesome  wars  they  were 
having  with  their  ancient  enemies,  the  Iroquois.  More 
fully  than  ever  before  the  new-comers  came  to  realise 
the  deadly  feud  of  long  standing  between  the  rival 
tribes  of  aborigines  inhabiting  the  country,  a  struggle 
which  had  accomplished  the  ruin  of  Stadacone  and 
Hochelaga.  Champlain  listened  to  their  story  with  a 
friendly  interest,  knowing  that  it  would  be  impolitic  for 
him  to  refuse.  For  this  act  Champlain  has  been  con- 
demned, and  even  if  there  was  reason  to  censure  him 
in  this,  it  speaks  in  eloquent  tribute  to  him  that  this 
alone  stands  against  him.  But  in  this  it  would  appear 
that  he  followed  the  only  feasible  course  open  to  him. 
Having  cast  his  fortunes,  as  it  were,  among  the  Algon- 
quins  and  their  allies,  he  of  necessity  must  become  their 
friend,  and  consequently  opposed  to  that  powerful  ele- 
ment occupying  much  of  the  territory  now  included  in 
the  State  of  New  York,  with  an  influence  felt  far  beyond 


Founding  of  Quebec  63 

their  border.  There  was  in  reaUty  no  middle  policy 
for  him  to  pursue,  though  even  he  could  not  anticipate 
the  far-reaching  result  to  arise  from  his  choice.  This 
result,  however,  was  destined  to  be  tempered  by  the 
strength  or  weakness  of  those  who  were  to  follow  him 
in  his  own  path.  Ay,  had  Champlain's  successors 
always  possessed  his  rugged  honesty  and  courage  of 
conviction,  there  would  have  been  no  occasion  to  ac- 
cuse him  of  mistakes,  or  to  have  written  whole  pages  of 
the  history  of  New  France  in  tears  and  blood. 

Elated  to  know  that  they  had  secured  such  a  power- 
ful ally,  the  Indians  immediately  urged  their  new-found 
friends  to  accompany  them  upon  an  expedition  against 
their  dreaded  enemies,  whose  name  they  frankly  con- 
fessed carried  terror  to  the  most  remote  regions  lying 
between  the  sea  and  the  sunset  plains  beyond  the 
Father  of  Waters  and  fir  fringes  of  the  frozen  north. 
Prompted  by  a  desire  to  explore  the  country,  as  well 
as  to  add  to  his  influence  with  the  Indian  tribes  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  valley,  Champlain  joined  the  Hurons  and 
Algonquins  with  a  handful  of  his  followers  in  the 
spring  of  1609,  to  enter  upon  his  first  memorable  raid 
against  the  Five  Nations. 

This  expedition  was  made  along  a  course  afterwards 
to  become  famous  in  the  French  and  Indian  wars  with 
the  English,  as  it  had  been  in  the  annals  of  the  wildwood 
warfare  for  many  generations.  Keeping  up  the  St.  Law- 
rence to  Lake  St.  Peter,  they  entered  that  river  which 
lies  like  a  broad  arrow  upon  the  landscape,  reaching 


64  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

from  the  lake  of  the  highlands  since  christened  in 
honour  of  the  leader  of  this  band,  to  Canada's  great 
river.  Cartier  did  not  have  time  to  explore  it,  and 
passed  it  by  without  giving  it  a  name.  Champlain, 
knowing  it  had  been  the  main  highway  of  the  Iroquois, 
very  appropriately  called  it  Riviere  des  Yrocois,  "the 
River  of  the  Iroquois,"  which  it  would  have  been  well 
to  keep.  But,  later,  when  the  renowned  Cardinal- 
Duke  Richelieu  became  the  head  of  the  French  com- 
merce and  navigation  in  New  France,  Chef,  Grande 
Maitre,  et  Sur-Intendant  Ghieral,  it  was  given  his 
name,  which  it  still  bears.  In  this  respect  it  suffers  no 
more  than  the  lakelet  forming  its  headwaters,  whose 
apt  Indian  designation  has  been  supplanted  by  the 
name  (Lake  George)  of  a  king  whose  association  with 
it  is  meaningless.  Champlain  pursued  resolutely  his 
course,  as  the  poet  tells  us — 

Through  woods  and  waste  lands  cleft  by  stormy  streams, 
Past  yew-trees,  and  the  heavy  air  of  pines, 
And  where  the  dew  is  thickest  under  the  oaks. 
This  way  and  that ;    but  questing  up  and  down 
They  saw  no  trail. 

Upon  getting  as  far  as  where  is  now  the  great  dam 
of  St.  Ours,  Champlain  abandoned  the  undertaking  for 
the  time  being.  But  the  tidings  was  soon  brought  to 
him  that  the  Iroquois,  exulting  over  what  they  believed 
to  be  the  fear  of  the  allied  forces,  were  planning  to 
make  a  grand  raid  to  recover  their  ancient  fishing -and 
hunting-grounds  of    the  valley  of   the    St.   Lawrence. 


Founding  of  Quebec  65 

Believing  that  it  would  be  well  to  carry  war  into  the 
enemy's  country,  Champlain  determined  this  time  to 
follow  the  River  of  the  Iroquois  to  its  source.  Accord- 
ingly every  preparation  needed  was  made,  the  Algon- 
quins  eager  and  anxious  to  encourage  the  expedition, 
realising  that  their  possession  of  the  Canadian  paradise 
depended  upon  the  success  of  this  undertaking. 

With  a  flotilla  of  twenty-four  canoes,  his  own  skiff 
leading  the  way,  Champlain  moved  silently  and  cau- 
tiously under  the  overhanging  arms  of  the  towering 
oaks  and  walnuts  that  grew  abundantly  along  the  river- 
banks,  and  anon  under  the  deeper  canopy  of  the  wilder- 
ness of  Beloeil,  until  he  came  to  where  the  stream 
broadens  into  what  is  now  known  as  Chambly  Basin, 
with  its  primeval  intervales  and  deep-sounding  woods. 
Where  these  last  began  to  assume  darker  shades  the 
voyagers  came  upon  the  rapids,  which  they  were  forced 
to  pass  around  by  the  old  Indian  portage  where  now 
is  the  Chambly  and  St.  John  Canal,  Just  above  here 
they  came  upon  an  island  since  christened  Ste.  Therese, 
which  was  then  covered  with  a  growth  of  pine  that 
excited  the  keenest  admiration  of  the  doughty  leader. 

Still  on  they  moved  in  solitude  past  where  the  city  of 
St.  John  now  stands,  and  then  past  He  atcx  Noix,  with 
a  stirring  history  yet  to  be  enacted.  Noiselessly  the 
little  fleet  glided  around  Rouse's  Point,  and  the  unsus- 
pected vanguard  of  civilisation  advanced  triumphantly 
into  the  very  battle-ground  of  past  and  future  races, 
Lake  Champlain.     Now  the  veteran  of  sea  and  land, 


66  The  St  Lawrence  River 

the  hero  of  many  hard-fought  battles,  and  the  explorer 
of  many  strange  scenes  paused  with  uncovered  head  and 
unspoken  applause  to  bend  his  keen  gaze  over  the 
sheet  of  water  which  was  to  perpetuate  his  name.  He 
saw,  rich  in  their  summer  vesture,  a  scene  of  orlisteninof 
water,  wooded  islands,  shores  banked  in  forests,  distant 
mountains  groined  into  "  great  domes  of  foliage  "  such 
as  even  he  had  never  found  before.  Woods  and  water 
abounded  with  wild  life,  and  in  the  lightness  of  heart 
given  by  the  happy  mingling  of  Nature's  gifts,  he 
quickly  gave  the  order  to  move  on  into  the  mystery 
ahead,  when  his  swarthy  and  dusky  rowers  plied  anew 
their  paddles,  sending  their  light  canoes  swiftly  over 
the  crystal  water,  little  dreaming,  little  caring  for  the 
horrors  to  follow  in  their  wake,  the  wars  and  rumours 
of  wars  into  which  were  to  be  drawn  not  only  the 
several  tribes  of  red  men  then  claiming  the  country, 
but  the  French,  British,  Dutch,  and  Americans. 

Happily  free  from  the  burden  of  all  this,  the  bold 
explorer  continued  to  watch  with  a  critical  eye  his  sur- 
roundings, while  his  rowers  carried  him  on  into  the  heart 
of  a  region  which  it  was  fitting  such  as  he  should  enter. 

To  the  west  lay  the  Adirondacks,  the  ancient  homestead  of 
the  Algonquin  warriors  who  were  his  companions.  Their  fore- 
fathers deserted  that  picturesque  wilderness  for  the  gentler  shores 
of  Hochelaga,  driving  before  them  the  then  unwarlike  Iroquois, ' 
whom  Cartier  had  found  fishing,  corn-planting,  and  road-making. 
Contrasting  their  own  better  fare  with  that  of  the  improvident  and 
often  famished  Algonquins,  the  Iroquois  had  nicknamed  them 
Adirondacks,  "bark  eaters."  Once  in  Canada,  the  Adirondacks 
'  Probably  that  branch  known  as  the  Hurons — Author. 


Founding  of  Quebec  67 

became  infused  into  the  other  Algonquin  tribes  that  occupied  the 
banks  of  the  Ottawa  ;  but  the  ancient  nickname  still  happily 
applies  to  their  old  mountain  home.  Through  Emerson's  muse 
these  peaks  have  won  a  name  in  literature,  as  well  as  on  maps  ;  but 
on  that  morning,  and  long  afterwards,  they  were  "  titans  without 
muse  or  name."  Then  away  on  his  left  Champlain  saw  the  soaring 
peaks  of  the  Green  Mountains,  which,  through  the  French  verts 
monts,  have  given  name  to  the  State  of  Vermont.  The  discoverer 
remarked,  though  a  July  sun  was  shining,  that  their  summits  were 
white  with  snow. 

Toward  midnight  an  Algonquin  scout  discovered 
an  Iroquois  encampment  at  that  place  since  become 
famous  as  Crown  Point.  Here  Champlain  prepared  to 
wage  his  opening  battle,  and  just  as  the  rays  of  the 
morning  sun  were  tingeing  the  distant  forest  with  their 
gold  he  and  his  two  French  soldiers  stepped  out  upon 
the  headland.  Soon  after,  the  solitude  of  the  country- 
was  broken  for  the  first  time  by  the  report  of  firearms. 
Watching  this  audacious  approach  of  their  enemies 
from  their  vantage-ground  some  thirty  yards  away,  the 
disdain  of  the  Mohawks  was  swiftly  changed  to  terror 
at  the  sound  of  that  discharge  of  powder  which  sent  its 
death-dealing  slugs  into  their  midst.  A  panic  followed, 
which  ever  rankled  in  the  breasts  of  the  discomfited 
braves,  and  which  was  paid  for  over  and  over  again  in 
future  years,  though  it  could  not  then  save  their  town 
from  the  ravages  of  the  conquerors.  Considering  this 
victory  suf^cient  for  the  time,  celebrating  the  event 
by  giving  his  name  to  the  lake  he  had  discovered, 
Champlain  immediately  retraced  his  course  to  the  St. 
Lawrence. 


68  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

The  significance  of  this  rout  of  the  Iroquois  at 
Crown  Point  is  shown  by  the  fact  that  the  alHed  nations 
of  the  Indians  were  not  only  undisputed  masters  of  the 
Great  Lakes,  but  they  also  commanded  all  of  the  prin- 
cipal rivers  from  the  Ottawa  and  the  Hudson  to  the 
Mississippi.  It  was  estimated  by  La  Hontan  in  1684 
that  the  Five  Nations  numbered  seventy  thousand  souls, 
and  that  they  could  muster  nearly  eight  thousand  war- 
riors. What  the  allied  forces  of  Rome  at  the  zenith  of 
Roman  glory  were  to  Europe,  were  the  combined  tribes 
of  the  Iroquois  to  aboriginal  America.  Thirty  years 
later  a  sixth  tribe,  the  Tuscaroras,  were  admitted  to  the 
league,  adding  materially  to  their  strength  as  well  as  to 
their  numbers.  Among  these  shrewd,  stalwart  sons  of 
the  council  and  the  war-trail,  by  their  boldness,  sagacity, 
and  eloquence,  the  Mohawks  stood  at  the  head. 

While  the  British,  as  a  rule,  showed  greater  wisdom 
than  the  French  in  not  discriminating  between  native 
tribes,  it  was  inevitable  that  the  Five  Nations,  with  the 
beginning  that  had  been  made,  should  ally  themselves 
to  a  certain  extent  with  the  former.  It  was  also  in- 
evitable that  the  British  should  arm  them,  while  the 
French  did  the  same  by  the  Algonquins  and  the  Hu- 
rons.  If  the  French  went  farther  and  taught  the  last- 
named  tribes  the  arts  of  defence,  it  was  because  they 
intended  them  for  allies.  Neither  the  whites  of  New 
York  or  New  England  went  as  far  as  this,  for  they  never 
sought  to  make  the  Indians  their  allies  in  the  full  sense 
of  the  term. 


Founding  of  Quebec  69 

The  Treaty  of  Utrecht,  1713,  held  that  the  Iroquois 
Confederacy  was  under  British  protection,  and  through 
the  long  and  bitter  hostilities  that  followed,  as  a  rule 
these  tribes  remained  faithful  to  "  Great  Father."  They 
proved  so  true  in  this  direction  that  they  fought  against 
the  colonists  during  the  American  Revolution,  and  at 
its  close  found  themselves  in  the  same  situation  as 
the  Loyalists  or  Tories.  In  this  dilemma  they  sought 
the  protection  of  the  Canadian  government,  then  under 
British  power,  and  were  given  reserves  along  the  Grand 
River.  Brant,  at  this  time  leader  of  the  Mohawks,  se- 
lected the  fertile  and  beautiful  valley  where  since  the 
town  of  Brantford  has  sprung  into  existence.  It  was 
his  purpose  to  establish  here  a  reproduction  of  the  agri- 
cultural community  which  had  formerly  made  famous 
the  valley  of  the  Mohawks.  Unfortunately  he  did  not 
live  to  see  his  dream  fulfilled.  A  period  of  peace  with 
the  red  men  was  pretty  sure  to  be  followed  by  one 
of  war,  and  after  his  death  in  1807  the  relapse  of  his 
tribe  into  paganism  was  speedy. 

We  get  an  inkling  of  the  condition  of  the  Five 
Nations  before  the  coming  of  the  French  and  English 
from  the  fact  that  prior  to  Sullivan's  expedition  of  fire 
and  sword  the  valleys  of  the  Mohawk  and  the  Wyoming 
were  set  with  great  grain-fields,  whose  nodding  heads 
whispered  of  Indian  thrift,  and  the  hillsides  white 
with  apple  blossoms  were  huge  flower  gardens.  It  was 
to  duplicate  such  a  homelike  picture  that  Brant  la- 
boured so  zealously,  when  the  bloody  drama  of  war  was 


70  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

practically  over,  and  if  the  red  men  failed  to  follow 
the  example  of  their  leader  it  was  because  they  fell 
victims  to  their  own  weakness  rather  than  to  the 
prowess  of  their  enemies.  As  a  matter  of  fact  it  was 
the  vices  of  civilisation  which  overpowered  them  and 
not  its  manifold  strength.  It  has  been  so  with  all 
native  races. 

From  his  first  expedition  against  the  Iroquois 
Champlain  had  quite  as  much  as  he  could  do  in  making 
his  journeys  of  exploration  and  war  against  the  foes  of 
his  dusky  allies,  to  say  nothing  of  the  repeated  demands 
made  upon  him  by  the  home  government.  Frequent 
chanofes  in  the  control  of  affairs  crave  him  not  a  little 
trouble.  While  remaining  in  France  upon  one  of  these 
visits  he  married  a  girl  of  twelve,  though  she  did  not 
accompany  him  to  Quebec  until  1620,  the  year  the  Pil- 
grims landed  at  Plymouth  Rock.  Upon  his  return  from 
France  in  16 13  he  was  stirred  by  the  report  that  an 
adventurer  named  Nicolas  Vignan  had  discovered  the 
passage  to  Cathay  by  following  up  the  Ottawa,  and 
thence  by  other  great  rivers  he  claimed  to  have  found 
in  the  north.  It  proved  that  Champlain,  not  less  than 
other  explorers,  still  dreamed  dreams  of  this  northern 
passage,  and  he  quickly  set  about  undertaking  a  voyage 
into  the  north,  the  result  of  which  brought  him  only 
disappointment.  Still,  this  failure  did  not  deter  him 
from  making  other  trips  of  exploration  and  war  into  the 
interior. 

One  of  these  incursions  into  the  land  of  the  Iroquois 


Founding  of  Quebec  71 

proved  less  satisfactory  to  him  than  the  victory  at 
Crown  Point.  This  took  him  and  his  followers  across 
Lake  Ontario,  to  where  the  Onondagas  lived  behind 
the  barriers  of  their  stoutly  fenced  town.  Filled  with 
an  unbounded  faith  in  the  supernatural  powers  of  their 
leader,  while  ignoring  his  tactics  of  war,  the  Hurons 
and  Algonquins  attacked  wildly  the  defence  of  their 
enemies  and  were  as  wildly  routed.  Champlain  had 
taught  them  to  construct  a  movable  tower  from  which 
he  and  his  companions  might  shoot  over  the  walls 
of  the  Onondagas.  But,  becoming  furious  the  moment 
the  battle  opened,  Champlain's  orders  were  drowned 
by  their  maddening  cries,  and  he  found  himself  power- 
less to  control  them.  The  result  of  the  fiQ-ht  was 
disastrous  to  him.  He  was  wounded  in  the  knee  and 
thigh,  and  the  attack  finally  abandoned,  very  much  to  the 
chagrin  of  Champlain,  who  found  he  had  lost,  through  no 
fault  of  his,  the  prestige  he  had  hitherto  enjoyed  among 
his  allies.  Beating  a  headlong  retreat,  the  disappointed 
Hurons  then  broke  their  pledge  to  take  their  leader 
back  down  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Mont  Royale.  Unable 
to  make  the  journey  without  their  assistance,  Champlain 
was  obliged  to  pass  the  winter  with  the  Hurons,  who 
treated  him  well,  and  one  of  their  chiefs  paid  particular 
attention  to  his  wounds.  In  the  spring  he  returned  to 
Quebec,  where  he  had  been  looked  upon  as  dead. 

During  his  absence  Champlain  had  learned  consider- 
able of  Indian  character  which  was  to  be  of  benefit  to 
him  and  his  followers  in  the  succeeding  wars.     From 


72  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

the  nature  of  their  combats  they  had  been  trained  only 
to  meet  single  foemen,  or  else  to  overpower  a  concealed 
body  of  men  by  massing  themselves.  They  drilled  for 
such  encounters  by  sticking  pieces  of  wood  into  the 
ground  to  represent  the  chiefs  and  their  soldiers,  a  dif- 
erence  in  the  size  of  the  sticks  used  indicating  the 
leaders  and  their  followers.  Takino-  a  bundle  of  these 
sticks  the  chief  would  select  a  spot  suitable  for  his  pur- 
pose, and,  having  chosen  his  own  position,  mark  it  with 
a  dummy,  and  then  place  in  the  ground  a  smaller  up- 
right to  show  the  position  each  of  his  soldiers  was  to 
occupy.  They  must  then  study  carefully  the  position 
assigned  them.  This  simple  drill  was  practised  until 
every  warrior  was  perfectly  familiar  with  his  part.  The 
Hurons  entered  into  battle  nude,  except  for  the  war 
paint  daubed  generously  over  their  lithe  forms.  Cham- 
plain  described  the  Mohawks,  whom  he  routed  upon 
the  shore  of  Lake  Champlain,  as  dressed  in  armour  of 
cotton  fibre,  which  was  arrow-proof.  When  he  came 
to  discharge  his  arquebuse  at  a  distance  of  thirty  paces, 
loaded  with  four  balls,  he  killed  two  chiefs  and  wounded 
a  third.  Small  wonder  these  simple-minded  sons  of 
Mars,  who  had  never  witnessed  anything  like  it,  should 
become  panic-stricken,  fleeing  in  wild  disorder  at  the 
second  shot  fired  by  one  of  Champlain's  men. 

Meanwhile  the  little  band  of  colonists  at  Quebec 
were  making  exceedingly  slow  progress.  Fourteen 
years  after  its  establishment  the  colony  numbered  less 
than     fifty.       In     1617    an     apothecary    named    Louis 


rmm%> 


1 


THE  CHAMPLAIN  MONUMENT,   QUEBEC. 
From  a  photograph  by  Livernois,  Quebec. 


Founding  of  Quebec  7Z 

Hebert,  who  had  experienced  a  season  at  Port  Royal  un- 
der Biencourt,  settled  at  Quebec,  with  his  wife  and  two 
children,  this  courageous  family  having  the  honour  of 
founding  the  first  household  in  Canada.  Three  years 
later,  a  few  months  before  the  Pilgrims  made  their 
wintry  landing  at  Plymouth,  Champlain  brought  his 
own  family  to  Quebec.  His  wife  was  a  woman  of  great 
beauty,  enthusiasm,  and  accomplishments,  and  she  en- 
tered heartily  into  the  work  of  converting  the  women 
and  children  of  the  Indians,  and  of  helping  to  raise  the 
standard  of  morals  then  prevailing  there. 

This  unhappy  condition  of  the  social  and  intellectual 
life  of  the  struggling  colony  was  due  mainly  to  the 
utter  lack  of  honesty  on  the  part  of  the  fur-traders,  who 
from  the  first  had  been  a  disturbing  element.  Meeting 
in  Champlain  a  firm  and  powerful  opponent  to  their 
nefarious  purpose,  they  seemed  to  have  developed  the 
very  worst  phase  of  their  character.  To  add  to  the  per- 
plexity of  the  situation  this  monopoly  of  the  traffic  was 
constantly  changing  hands.  Rivals  were  continually  com- 
ing to  the  surface,  old  favourites  were  driven  out,  and 
scarcely  had  one  set  of  men  or  one  corporation  become 
established  before  another  would  enter  the  contention. 
Always  were  they  met  by  Champlain,  doing  all  in  his 
power  to  save  the  common  people  and  the  red  men  from 
the  greed  and  corruption  of  the  reckless  fur-traders,  who 
hesitated  at  nothing  to  carry  their  unjust  ends. 

Champlain  was  obliged  to  cease  his  explorations,  as 
loath  as  he  was  to  do  so.     In  the  future  this  must  be 


74  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

left  to  others.  He  had  all  he  could  attend  to  in  lookinof 
after  the  welfare  of  his  infant  colony,  which  was  about 
equally  divided  between  being  a  trading  station  and  a 
mission.  Out  of  this  bitter  rivalry  were  to  spring  two 
factors  destined  to  become  powerful  in  shaping  the  wel- 
fare of  the  new  empire.  These  can  be  best  treated  in 
separate  chapters. 


Chapter  VII 
From   Fur-Trade  to  Commerce 

Cardinal  Richelieu  and  his  Hundred  Associates — First  Surrender  of  Quebec  to 
the  English — Comparison  of  the  Settlements  of  the  St.  Lawrence  Valley  to 
those  of  Massachusetts  Bay — Trade  Troubles  Increase — Founding  of  Three 
Rivers — Death  of  Champlain — His  Character — The  Great  Company  Make 
Concessions — Laziness  Denounced — Fisheries — Lack  of  Pilots — Early  Ship- 
building— Fairs — Suppression  of  Knowledge — Ladies  of  Quebec — First  News- 
paper in  Canada — First  Steamship  to  Cross  the  Atlantic — Commerce  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  To-day. 

WHILE  the  two  infant  colonies  in  America 
that  were  destined  to  become  intense 
rivals  in  years  to  follow — the  Pilgrims  at 
Plymouth  Rock  and  the  little  band  under  Champlain 
at  Quebec — were  undergoing  such  vicissitudes  as  must 
have  disheartened  less  courageous  founders,  potent 
changes  were  taking  place  in  the  affairs  of  France.  The 
religious  wars  of  the  sixteenth  century  brought  to  the 
surface  of  power  a  French  statesman  named  Richelieu 
who  had  begun  his  military  education  as  Marquis  du 
Chillon  and  rose  to  become  the  most  important  political 
figure  in  Europe.  He  was  made  cardinal  in  1622,  at 
the  time  when  Champlain  was  meeting  his  trying 
opposition,  and  in  his  ambitious  desire  to  add  to  the 
greatness  of  France,  he  extinguished  the  remains  of 
feudalism,  subjected  the  higher  nobility  to  the  sway  of 

75 


76  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

the  Crown,  abased  the  House  of  Austria,  and  in  his 
triumph  at  Rochelle  crushed  Protestantism.  The  con- 
queror now  dreamed  of  bending  Europe  to  his  will. 
Again  he  dreamed,  and  this  time  saw  visions  of  an  em- 
pire in  the  New  World,  which  he  vaingloriously  believed 
would  revivify  the  grandeur  of  Old  France,  and  im- 
mortalise his  name  in  the  wilderness  of  America. 

With  vivid  conceptions  he  ran  over  the  names  of  the 
gallant  discoverers, — the  illustrious  quartette  of  C's, — 
Columbus,  Cabot,  Cortes,  Cartier.  Now  to  these  was 
added  a  fifth,  Champlain,  whose  glowing  accounts 
awakened  his  fertile  imagination  with  such  plots  of 
conquest  as  had  not  stirred  others.  With  less  religious 
zeal  than  Champlain,  he  schemed  to  build  upon  the  in- 
terest of  the  fur-trade.  First  of  all,  the  complications  sur- 
rounding this  industry  must  be  removed,  and  instead 
of  many  petty  factions,  quarrelling  one  with  another, 
there  must  be  a  unity  of  effort.  To  secure  this  he  caused 
to  be  discontinued  the  honourable  office  of  Admiral 
of  France,  and  created  in  its  stead  the  ofifice  of  Grand 
Master  and  Superintendent  of  Navigation  and  Com- 
merce. It  is  perhaps  needless  to  say  that  he  made 
himself  head  of  this.  He  then  organised  a  trading 
company  of  one  hundred  influential  men.  This  body 
became  the  famous  Company  of  the  Hundred  Asso- 
ciates, and  Samuel  de  Champlain  was  its  strongest 
member. 

The  charter  for  Richelieu's  company  carried  on  its 
face  the  possession  of  all  New  France — Canada,  Acadie, 


I 


From  Fur-Trade  to  Commerce  ^^ 

Newfoundland,  and  Florida — and  its  members  consisted 
of  priests  and  religious  workers,  as  well  as  traders  and 
voyageurs.  It  openly  declared  that  its  first  object  was 
the  conversion  of  the  Indians  to  the  faith  of  the  Catho- 
lic church  by  its  zealous  teachers,  the  Jesuits  ;  in  the 
second  place,  it  was  to  extend  the  fur-trade  ;  and  third, 
and  last,  to  continue  the  search  for  a  route  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean.  This  was  exactly  reversing  the  order  of 
purpose  controlling  the  movements  of  Cartier,  whose 
first  object  was  to  find  the  passage  to  Cathay. 

Under  the  policy  of  this  company  was  established 
that  feudal  seigniory  which  so  long  dominated  the 
methods  of  colonisation.  It  thought  to  end  the  re- 
ligious discords  which  had  been  such  a  disgraceful 
portion  of  previous  efforts.  No  Huguenot  or  "other 
heretic  "  was  to  be  allowed  on  its  soil.  The  company 
was  given  a  perpetual  monopoly  of  the  fur-trade,  with 
a  control  for  fifteen  years  of  all  other  trade,  except 
traffic  in  cod  and  whale  fisheries.  To  those  who  might 
want  to  trade  in  furs,  and  who  did  not  belong  to  the 
corporation,  it  was  stipulated  that  the  company  should 
buy  every  beaverskin  at  the  rate  of  forty  sous  each. 
The  company  was  pledged  to  aid  colonisation  by 
sending  out  three  hundred  colonists  the  first  year, 
and  within  the  following  fifteen  years  to  increase  the 
number  to  six  thousand.  As  proof  of  its  fealty  and 
homage  the  company  was  to  present  each  successive 
heir  to  the  throne  with  a  crown  of  gold.  The  King,  as 
a    personal    tribute,    presented    it    with    two    armed 


78  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

battleships.  Champlain  was  placed  in  command.  The 
new  company  then  sent  out  a  fleet  of  eighteen  vessels 
laden  with  provisions  and  commodities  for  the  new 
colony.  The  command  was  entrusted  to  De  Roque- 
mont,  who  sailed  from  Dieppe  for  Quebec  in  the  spring 
of  1628. 

This  was  an  anxious  time  for  the  handful  of  in- 
habitants by  the  rock  of  Quebec,  who  were  languishing 
under  short  allowance  of  food  and  with  hope  at  ebb- 
tide. All  of  Champlain's  wonderful  resource  of  tact 
and  good  cheer  was  called  into  play  in  order  to  keep  his 
followers  under  control  until  the  expected  succour  should 
reach  them.  But  this  was  not  destined  to  arrive. 
England  and  France,  as  usual  during  the  long  and  try- 
ing period  of  American  colonisation,  were  at  war,  and 
an  adventurer  named  Sir  David  Kertk  or  Kirke,  a  na- 
tive of  Scotland,  at  one  time  professing  allegiance  to 
the  French  but  now  carrying  the  flag  of  Great  Britain, 
sailed  boldly  into  the  harbour  of  Tadousac  with  his 
fleet  of  six  vessels.  Finding  this  trading  station  poorly 
equipped  to  resist  him,  he  seized  and  pillaged  the 
place.  He  then  sent  a  boat  up  the  St.  Lawrence  to  de- 
mand the  surrender  of  the  starving  colony  at  Quebec. 
Upon  meeting  an  enemy  seeking  to  destroy  him,  in- 
stead of  some  of  his  own  countrymen  coming  to  his 
rescue,  Champlain  answered  the  new-comers  boldly. 
Despite  the  fact  that  he  did  not  have  fifty  pounds  of 
ammunition,  and  that  the  walls  of  his  primitive  fortifi- 
cations were  sadly  in  need  of  repair,  he  sent  word  to 


From  Fur-Trade  to  Commerce  79 

the  British  admiral  that  he  should  defend  Quebec  to 
the  last. 

Deceived  by  this  reply  Kertk  abandoned  for  the 
time  his  scheme  of  attack  in  that  direction  and  sailed 
down  the  river.  Near  its  mouth  he  encountered  and 
captured  De  Roquemont's  fleet  of  eighteen  vessels,  tak- 
ing possession  of  the  supplies  so  desperately  needed 
at  Quebec,  whose  hope  was  shattered  by  this  calamity. 
Reinforced  by  his  two  brothers  and  their  ships,  Admiral 
Kertk  continued  to  hover  about  the  gulf  for  awhile,  and 
then  crossed  the  ocean  to  England  with  his  prizes. 

Learning  of  the  fate  of  De  Roquemont  and  his 
transports,  Champlain's  little  colony  grew  more  and 
more  despondent,  as  well  they  had  reason  to  be.  Their 
rations  were  reduced  to  seven  ounces  of  pounded  peas 
a  day,  until  in  May  even  this  scanty  supply  failed  and 
recourse  was  had  to  the  roots  that  grew  along  the  mar- 
gins of  the  streams,  last  year's  acorns,  and  the  green, 
tender  leaves  of  the  trees.  In  desperation  some  of  the 
inhabitants  sought  the  friendly  Indians  on  the  west,  or 
the  Abnakis  on  the  east.  It  is  possible  that  Champlain 
was  contemplating  invading  the  Iroquois  country,  to 
seize  one  of  their  palisaded  towns,  and  take  up  his 
abode  there.  He  would  be  pretty  sure  of  finding  a 
supply  of  corn,  which  was  so  sorely  needed  here. 

The  season  wore  on  into  midwinter  without  any 
prospect  of  a  relief  from  their  friends,  when  the  sails 
of  three  ships  were  discovered  a  league  below  Point 
Levis.     There  was  no  doubt  as  to  the  character  of  the 


8o  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

strangers,  but  even  an  enemy  was  not  likely  to  receive 
a  very  cold  reception.  Champlain,  with  that  display  of 
rugged  determination  so  natural  to  him,  called  around 
him  his  handful  of  ragged,  hungry  followers,  now  re- 
duced to  sixteen  in  number,  and  calmly  awaited  the 
approach  of  the  English  under  the  cover  of  a  white 
flag.  It  was  not  difficult  to  agree  upon  the  terms  of 
capitulation,  and  on  July  20,  1629,  the  cross  of  St. 
George  of  England  was  planted  for  the  first  time  upon 
Canadian  soil. 

It  proved  that  negotiations  for  peace  were  already 
well  under  way,  and  England  thought  so  little  of  the 
prize  won  surreptitiously  by  Kertk,  that  Champlain,  still 
loyal  to  his  trust,  but  almost  alone  of  his  countrymen, 
succeeded  in  winning  back  to  France  by  the  skill  of  his 
diplomacy  all  of  Canada.  Then,  it  was  said,  the  honour  of 
France  was  saved,  and  her  golden  lilies  were  restored 
to  the  rock  of  Quebec. 

With  the  romance  that  clusters  about  its  name,  and 
the  mystery  clinging  to  its  history,  this  fair  emblem  of 
French  sovereignty — this  flag  of  Champlain — is  worthy 
of  more  than  passing  mention.  Not  unlike  other 
insignia  that  have  given  inspiration  to  thousands  and 
become  the  sacred  symbol  of  the  virtue  of  a  race,  the 
origin  of  the  iris  as  the  heraldic  emblem  of  France  is 
lost  in  the  obscurity  of  distance.  So  far  back  does 
tradition  carry  us  that  it  becomes  evident  it  antedates 
the  Frankish  Government.  But  this  does  not  rob  the 
fleur-de-lis  of  the  glory  it  shares  with  the  prestige  of 


From  Fur-Trade  to  Commerce  8i 

France.  It  can  even  claim  to  have  originated  with  the 
beginning  of  Christian  France.  According  to  story, 
Clovis,  the  pagan  conqueror,  before  entering  upon  his 
battle  of  Tolbiac,  496,  fearful  of  defeat,  pledged  his 
wife  Clotilda,  the  Christian  heroine  of  ancient  Paris, 
that  he  would  accept  Christianity  if  he  should  gain  a 
victory  on  the  morrow.  Pleased  with  this  promise, 
which  had  long  been  her  dream,  she  prayed  continually 
for  his  success,  and  her  prayer  was  answered.  Clovis 
continued  a  conqueror.  Within  a  year  he  and  three 
thousand  of  his  followers  accepted  the  Christian  faith. 
Immediately  upon  becoming  a  believer  in  her  teach- 
ings, his  beautiful  wife  presented  him  a  blue  banner, 
that  her  own  hands  had  embroidered  with  orolden  fleur- 
de-lis,  and  declared  that  as  long  as  the  kings  of  France 
should  keep  that  as  their  standard  so  long  would  their 
armies  be  victorious.  Others,  content  to  give  it  less 
ancient  origin,  claim  that  the  iris  was  a  device  adopted 
by  Louis  the  Seventh,  in  1147,  just  before  undertaking 
his  crusade  to  the  Holy  Land,  which  ended  so  dis- 
astrously. He  may  have  simply  revived  the  emblem 
that  Clotilda  orave  to  her  illustrious  husband.  Let  it 
be  as  it  may,  the  iris  as  an  emblem  of  wide-spread  influ- 
ence became  popular  about  the  middle  of  the  twelfth 
century,  and  was  conspicuous  not  only  upon  the  na- 
tional flag,  but  upon  church  crosses,  chalices,  win- 
dows of  houses,  seals,  and  sceptres. 

The  flag  of  Champlain,  which  was,  of  course,  the 
naval  standard,  had  a  blue  background,  with  the  fleur- 


82  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

de-lis  in  gold.  The  fleur-de-lis  ceased  to  be  the 
standard  of  France  with  the  abdication  of  the  citizen 
King,  Louis  Philippe,  and  the  rise  of  the  republic  in 
1848,  after  an  illustrious  career  of  over  a  thousand 
years.  It  was  succeeded  by  the  tri-colour,  which  has 
held  its  place  through  the  vicissitudes  of  French  gov- 
ernment until  the  present  day. 

Immediately  upon  the  signing  of  the  Treaty  of 
St.  Germain-Laye  in  1632,  Emeric  de  Caen,  one  of  the 
sufferers  from  the  recent  war,  was  sent  to  receive 
Quebec  from  her  captors.  To  him  was  given  the 
monopoly  of  the  fur-trade  for  one  year,  that  he  might 
be  reimbursed  for  his  losses.  It  was  not  a  pleasant  or 
prosperous  scene  that  Kertk  left  when  he  pulled 
down  the  flag  of  England  and  sailed  away,  glad,  no 
doubt,  to  get  well  rid  of  his  prize.  Parkman,  in  describ- 
ing the  situation,  says  : 

Caen  landed  with  the  Jesuits,  Paul  le  Jeune  and  Anne  de  la  Noue, 
They  climbed  the  steep  stairway  which  led  up  the  rock,  and  as  they 
reached  the  top  the  dilapidated  fort  lay  on  the  left,  while  farther  on 
was  the  massive  cottage  of  the  Heberts,  surrounded  with  its  vege- 
table gardens, — the  only  thrifty  spot  amid  the  scene  of  neglect. 

Few  Indians  remained,  having  found  the  compan- 
ionship of  the  English  less  congenial  than  that  of  the 
French,  and  those  remaining  here  were  noting  under  the 
maddening  effects  of  liquor.  De  Caen's  occupancy  of 
the  wilderness  capital  was  not  in  accord  with  the  aims 
of  the  Jesuits,  and  when,  in  the  succeeding  spring,  1633, 
the   Hundred   Associates  again  assumed  control,  rein- 


From  Fur-Trade  to  Commerce  83 

stating  Champlain  as  governor,  rejoicing  reigned  among 
them.  The  Recollets  had  removed  to  other  fields,  the 
Huguenots  were  expelled,  and  religious  peace  predomi- 
nated at  the  settlement  under  the  dark  walls  of  Cape 
Diamond.  The  two  years  that  followed  were  the 
brightest  Quebec  had  known.  Champlain  was  now 
invested  with  all  the  power  and  prestige  of  Richelieu 
and  his  Hundred  Associates,  but  he  was  soon  to  find 
that  this  could  not  be  fully  transplanted  to  the  New 
World.  In  fact,  he  was  finally  forced  to  believe  that  he 
had  no  greater  expectations  from  the  new  company 
than  from  any  that  had  been  organised  before.  He 
made  such  preparations  for  a  defence  from  the  Iroquois 
as  he  could,  and  this  called  for  a  station  at  Three  Riv- 
ers strong  enough  to  check  any  advance  down  the  river. 
Another  was  needed  below  Quebec  to  prevent  the  Eng- 
lish from  coming  up,  as  well  as  a  protection  against 
the  Indians  in  that  direction.  It  was  in  vain  that  he 
asked  for  soldiers  from  France  to  maintain  these  sta- 
tions. Two  aims  were  paramount  in  the  minds  of  those 
who  turned  their  gaze  upon  New  France.  One  of  these 
was  still  the  conversion  of  the  Indians  by  the  Jesuits,  and 
to  carry  on  this  work  the  missions  here  were  strength- 
ened by  the  coming  of  four  priests,  Brebeuf,  Masse, 
Daniel,  and  Davost.  The  other  was  the  trafific  in  furs, 
which  lasted  during  the  summer  season.  This  was 
not  materially  different  at  first  thought  from  the 
course  being  followed  by  the  Dutch  in  New  Netherlands, 
and  the  English  in  New  England.     Albany  found  its 


84  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

greatest  source  of  revenue  from  it,  and  large  consign- 
ments were  annually  shipped  from  Manhattan  to 
Holland.  New  England  was  maintaining  its  trading 
posts  on  the  borderland  of  the  rival  colonies  at  the 
headwaters  of  the  Kennebec.  But  the  similarity  be- 
tween the  last  two  colonies  ended  here.  While  the  en- 
tire population  of  Canada  numbered  in  the  vicinity  of 
only  sixty,  and  could  boast  of  only  two  households, 
fully  four  thousand  English  had  settled  about  Massa- 
chusetts Bay,  and  already  that  tide  of  immigration  had 
bepfun  which  was  to  brino-  twelve  thousand  more  to  the 
country.  What  was  of  even  greater  importance,  these 
people  were  home-builders.  They  began  at  once  to 
build  ships  and  open  commerce  with  distant  places. 

No  one  realised  this  difference  more  keenly  than 
Champlain,  and  in  the  hope  of  encouraging  enterprise 
in  this  direction,  in  1634,  he  began  a  new  settlement  at 
Three  Rivers.  He  encouraged  the  priests  in  carrying 
the  gospel  still  farther  west,  and  Brebeuf  and  his  com- 
panions went  to  establish  their  missions  among  the 
Hurons.  In  July  Champlain  made  hislast  journey  west- 
ward, in  going  to  see  how  work  was  progressing  upon 
the  fort  at  Three  Rivers.  Shortly  after,  Le  Jeune  went 
to  take  charge  of  the  new  post.  Then  an  epidemic  broke 
out  which  threatened  to  destroy  the  settlement.  A 
register  of  the  baptisms  and  deaths  in  the  hand  of  this 
faithful  priest  now  remains  as  the  only  document  of  the 
old  Canadian  days  that  is  in  existence.  The  burning  in 
1640  of  the  chapel  of  Notre  Dame  de  Recouvrance,  built 


From  Fur-Trade  to  Commerce  85 

by  Champlain  to  commemorate  the  restoration  of  the 
town  by  the  Enghsh,  caused  the  loss  of  the  early  records 
of  Quebec. 

July  22,  1635,  Champlain  met  in  his  last  council  with 
the  Indians  at  Quebec.  According  to  their  practice  a 
goodly  number  of  the  Hurons  were  present,  and  the 
founder  of  New  France  spoke  like  a  father  to  his 
children.  Without  dreaming  that  the  end  was  so  near 
the  dusky  listeners  paid  careful  attention  to  all  he  said, 
for  no  man  was  so  revered  among  them.  A  little  later 
Champlain  learned  of  the  return  from  among  the 
Indians  of  the  west  of  the  young  Norman  explorer, 
Nicollet,  whose  story  fills  so  large  a  space  in  the  Jesuit 
Relations  of  those  days.  On  the  15th  of  August  he 
wrote  his  last  letter  addressed  to  Richelieu,  endeavour- 
ing to  impress  upon  him  the  importance  of  assisting 
the  colony.  Two  months  later  he  was  stricken  with 
paralysis,  from  which  he  suffered  until  upon  the  after- 
noon of  Christmas  Day,  1635,  in  his  sixty-eighth  year, 
the  "  Father  of  Quebec"  found  surcease  from  his  trou- 
bles in  that  sleep  called  death.  There  was  genuine 
grief  among  those  who  stood  around  his  bier,  though 
none  of  his  mourners  fully  appreciated  or  understood 
him.  If  he  had  failed  in  a  great  measure  of  reaping  the 
harvest  he  had  anticipated,  it  was  not  his  fault.  Had 
there  been  more  Heberts  and  Gifarts  with  his  followers, 
his  disappointment  would  have  been  less  poignant. 
The  widow  of  the  first-named  still  lived,  and  to  this  day 
can  be  pointed  out  to  you  the  spot  where  this  one  early 


86  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

householder  of  Quebec  did  more  than  all  other  yeomen 
towards  establishing  the  permanency  of  New  France. 
At  this  time  across  the  valley  of  the  St.  Charles  could 
be  seen  the  stone  manor  of  Robert  Gifart,  who  had  only 
the  year  before  builded  him  here  a  home,  where  homes 
were  the  only  thing  lacking  to  make  the  new  empire 
complete. 

The  Jesuit  Lalemant  performed  the  last  service,  while 
Le  Jeune  delivered  the  eulogy.  Then  the  body  of  the 
hero  was  laid  away  to  rest  in  a  tomb  built  by  the  feeble 
colony.  In  the  changes  which  have  taken  place  since 
then  this  mortuary  chapel  has  been  swept  away,  and  no 
man  can  point  out  the  resting-place  of  Champlain  with 
any  more  precision  than  that  his  sepulture  was  made 
where  is  now  an  open  square  in  the  upper  town.  It 
matters  little  where  he  may  have  found  his  resting- 
place,  so  long  as  it  was  in  the  heart  of  the  town  he  loved 
so  well ;  where  his  dust  has  mingled  with  the  earth,  so 
long  as  it  is  with  the  dust  of  the  streets  of  that  city  which 
he  founded  with  not  a  little  sacrifice.  Champlain  has 
many  mementoes  and  monuments,  but  the  greatest  and 
most  enduring  of  these  is  the  great  and  powerful  city  of 
Quebec. 

No  true  estimate  of  a  man  can  be  made  without 
taking  into  account  the  influences,  environments,  and 
opportunities  of  his  day.  Champlain  lived  in  a  stormy 
period,  when  no  man  could  count  upon  the  friends  of 
the  day  to  stand  by  him  on  the  morrow,  and  when  cor- 
ruption entered  soon  or  late  into  the  relationships  of 


I 


From  Fur-Trade  to  Commerce  87 

most  men.  Above  these  wrecks  rises  the  sturdy  figure 
of  Champlain,  incorruptible  and  unchangeable.  No  man 
of  his  times  was  more  sincerely  mourned,  and  there  is 
no  one  whose  memory  will  live  longer.  Possessing  all 
of  the  qualities  needed  for  such  arduous  undertakings  : 
a  sublime  patience,  an  enduring  frame,  a  keen  foresight, 
an  unswerving  passion  for  discovery,  a  mind  capable  of 
discerning  the  true  from  the  false  to  a  remarkable  extent 
under  his  surroundings,  a  courage  that  never  faltered, 
and  a  good  cheer  that  always  animated  his  companions 
with  hopefulness,  he  was  an  ideal  explorer.  He  was, 
too,  a  statesman  of  no  mean  quality,  and  if  his  scheme 
of  colonisation  ultimately  failed,  it  was  due  to  the  system 
under  which  it  was  founded.  The  prestige  of  Richelieu 
waxed  and  waned  ;  the  Hundred  Associates  yielded  to 
a  weaker  combination  ;  but  the  influence  of  Champlain 
was  still  the  guiding  star  of  New  France  for  a  long 
time.  Ay,  while  governments  have  changed,  and  a 
nation  greater  than  even  he  could  have  conceived  has 
risen  upon  the  ruins  of  that  he  so  fondly  planned,  his 
illustrious  light  kindled  by  the  goodness  of  his  heart 
cannot  fade  from  the  firmament  of  stars. 

Champlain  was  succeeded  by  De  Montmagny  as  Gov- 
ernor, and  in  1645  the  monopoly  of  the  fur-trade  which 
had  been  enjoyed  by  the  Company  of  the  Hundred  As- 
sociates was  made  over  to  inhabitants  of  the  colony, 
who  assumed  all  of  the  debts,  and  allowed  the  corpora- 
tion to  retain  all  seignioral  rights  and  an  annuity  of  a 
thousand  pounds  of  beaver-skins.     It  was  now  hoped 


88  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

many  of  the  evils  which  had  prevailed  would  be  stopped, 
and  the  colonists  expected  to  receive  direct  benefits 
from  the  change.  Under  this  arrangement,  no  private 
individual  was  allowed  to  enter  into  trade,  and  he  could 
sell  his  furs  only  to  the  colonial  corporation  and  at  a 
fixed  price. 

Even  here  we  see  the  old  spirit  of  monopoly  para- 
mount. Individual  rights  were  unheeded.  Under  this 
system,  the  evil  was  not  lessened,  while  another  was 
fostered.  This  was  a  habit  of  looking  to  the  home 
government  for  encouragement  in  whatever  enterprise 
was  undertaken.  Appeals  of  this  kind  were  seldom 
ignored,  more  's  the  pity.  This  served  to  encourage 
claimants,  without  materially  adding  to  the  trade  and 
prosperity  of  the  country.  The  result  was  demoralis- 
ing. Of  all  the  industries,  the  people  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence were  favoured  in  the  matter  of  fisheries,  as  far  as 
Nature  had  performed  her  part.  But  for  one  reason 
and  another  the  progress  was  not  made  that  should 
have  been,  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  the  King  was 
supposed  to  be  heartily  in  accord  with  such  an  enter- 
prise. "  His  Majesty,"  wrote  Denonville,  in  1688,  "de- 
sires you  [the  governor]  to  unite  with  the  merchants  to 
encourage  the  inhabitants  to  overcome  their  natural 
laziness,  since  it  is  the  only  way  to  save  themselves 
from  the  poverty  they  are  now  suffering."  Then, 
after  declaring  against  the  young  men  who  "ran  wild 
in  the  woods  "  for  the  sake  of  a  few  pelts,  "  Boston  is 
getting  rich  out  of  it  [the  fishery]  at  our  loss." 


From  Fur-Trade  to  Commerce  89 

We  find  in  diis  same  year  that  the  St.  Lawrence  was 
without  pilots  and  sailors.  Twenty-five  years  later,  En- 
gineer Catalogne  reported  to  the  government  that  the 
river  was  dangerous  for  vessels  at  many  places,  but  that 
it  was  almost  impossible  to  find  a  pilot.  De  Chalons 
writes  at  this  period  :  "  We  ought  to  have  a  trade  with 
the  West  Indies  and  other  countries.  Everybody 
agrees  that  this  is  true,  but  no  one  attempts  it.  Our 
merchants  are  too  poor,  or  they  are  taken  up  with  the 
fur-trade." 

As  early  as  1674,  the  energetic  Talon  undertook 
to  encourage  shipbuilding,  but  met  with  slight  suc- 
cess. In  1 714,  one  Duplessis  built  a  vessel,  from 
which  is  dated  the  beginning  of  shipbuilding  in  Can- 
ada, which  was  so  well  adapted  to  become  a  great 
maritime  nation.  But  the  day  when  that  glory  should 
be  known  was  still  far  distant.  The  slight  interest  paid 
to  commerce  reflected  upon  agriculture,  which  has  since 
become  such  an  important  factor  in  the  prosperity  of 
the  country. 

The  absorbing  trade  was  the  traffic  in  beaver-skins. 
It  seemed  the  best  adapted  to  the  wild,  adventurous 
nature  of  the  French  colonists.     Says  Parkman  : 

In  the  eighteenth  century,  Canada  exported  a  moderate  quan- 
tity of  timber,  wheat,  the  herb  called  ginseng,  and  a  few  other  com- 
modities; but  from  first  to  last  she  lived  chiefly  on  beaver-skins. 
The  government  tried  without  ceasing  to  control  and  regulate  this 
traffic;  but  it  never  succeeded.  It  aimed  above  all  things  to  bring 
the  trade  home  to  the  colonists,  to  prevent  them  from  going  to  the 
Indians,  and  induce  the  Indians  to  come  to  them. 


go  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

To  accomplish  this  purpose,  annual  fairs  were  in- 
augurated at  Montreal  and  Three  Rivers,  when  great 
fleets  of  canoes  laden  with  pelts  came  down  the  rivers. 
In  the  former  place,  upon  the  day  following  the  arrival 
of  the  Indians  with  their  cargoes,  a  grand  council  was 
held  on  the  Common  between  the  river  and  St.  Paul 
Street ;  every  possible  courtesy  was  paid  to  the  red  men  ; 
compliments  were  showered  upon  them,  and  then  trade 
began.  For  a  time  good  order  prevailed,  but  the  result 
was  inevitable.  The  fair  would  become  a  wild  scene 
of  uncontrollable  actors.  Indians,  clothed  only  in  a 
feathered  headdress,  and  armed  with  bows  and  arrows 
or  a  highly  painted  "  trade  gun  "  ;  French  bush-rangers, 
decked  out  in  gaudy  finery,  and  as  untamed  and  un- 
tamable as  the  wild  sons  of  the  forest ;  greedy  mer- 
chants ready  for  any  sacrifice  to  make  a  livre ;  habitans 
in  their  plain,  coarse  garb,  as  lookers-on  in  a  scene  in 
which  they  had  the  smallest  interest ;  officials  in  high 
office,  vainly  trying  to  bring  order  out  of  chaos  ;  and 
sedate  priests  of  St.  Sulpice,  in  their  dark  robes  now 
sadly  bedraggled,  praying  and  exhorting, — all  these, 
and  many  others,  became  involved  in  a  maddening,  but 
picturesque,  medley  of  human  beings. 

A  great  check  to  the  growth  of  commerce  in  the 
valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence  was  the  suppression  of 
knowledge.  The  government,  blind  to  its  own  inter- 
est, was  ever  watchful  to  see  that  the  merchants,  and 
would-be  merchants  did  not  meet  to  discuss  the  situ- 
ation,  and  inform  themselves  by   learning    of   others. 


From  Fur-Trade  to  Commerce  91 

Hence  there  was,  with  a  single  exception  of  little 
account,  no  bourse  or  place  of  exchange ;  no  encour- 
agement from  one  to  another,  and  least  of  all  from  the 
officials  at  the  head  of  affairs.  The  education  of  those 
who  came  to  the  country  compared  favourably  with 
others  of  the  times,  but  their  children  were  not  de- 
stined to  be  as  fortunate.  For  the  women  to  learn  to 
any  great  extent,  or  to  read  such  few  books  as  had  been 
brought  from  the  homeland,  was  looked  upon  as  a  sin- 
ful waste  of  time.  From  such  literature  as  was  at  their 
command,  the  latter  deprivation  could  have  been  no 
serious  loss,  as  it  could  not  have  afforded  them  great 
benefits.  The  complaint  does  not  seem  strange,  under 
these  circumstances,  that  the  greater  portion  of  the 
ladies  in  Canada  took  too  much  care  of  their  dress,  and 
squandered  money  upon  it,  with  too  little  regard  for 
the  future  comforts  of  the  home.  Professor  Kalm  of 
Sweden,  writing  in  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  cent- 
ury, says  of  them  with  a  hint  of  sarcasm  : 

They  are  no  less  attentive  to  know  the  newest  fashions;  and 
they  laugh  at  each  other,  when  they  are  not  dressed  to  each  other's 
fancy.  .  .  .  The  ladies  of  Quebec  are  not  very  industrious. 
A  girl  of  eighteen  is  reckoned  poorly  off  if  she  cannot  enumerate 
at  least  twenty  lovers.  These  young  ladies,  especially  those  of  a 
higher  rank,  get  up  at  seven  and  dress  till  nine,  drinking  their 
coffee  at  the  same  time.  When  they  are  dressed,  they  place  them- 
selves near  a  window  that  opens  into  the  street,  take  up  some 
needle-work,  and  sew  a  stitch  now  and  then,  but  turn  their  eyes 
into  the  street  most  of  the  time.  When  a  young  fellow  comes  in, 
whether  they  are  acquainted  with  him  or  not,  they  immediately  set 
aside  their  work,  sit  down  by  him,  and  begin  to  chat,  laugh,  joke, 
and  invent  double  entendres  j  and  this  is  reckoned  very  witty. 


92  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

So  far  as  the  matter  of  frivoHty  goes,  there  is  Httle  to 
show  that  the  sterner  sex  had  any  reason  to  claim  greater 
industry.  The  daughters  of  famihes  of  all  ranks  did  not 
disdain  to  go  to  market,  and  to  carry  home  whatever 
they  had  purchased.  With  all  their  faults,  real  or  im- 
aginary, it  seems  that  the  young  ladies  of  Montreal  felt 
"very  much  displeased  because  those  of  Quebec  get 
husbands  sooner  than  they  !  " 

Returning  to  the  subject  from  which  this  is  a  digres- 
sion, there  was  no  printing-press  in  the  colony  to  spread 
intelligence.  It  is  true,  one  was  brought  to  Quebec 
early  in  the  eighteenth  century,  but  it  was  looked  upon 
as  a  dangerous  experiment  and  sent  back  from  whence 
it  had  come  with  all  the  despatch  possible.  The  first 
newspaper  did  not  appear  until  after  the  British  con- 
quest, and  its  founder  came  from  Philadelphia,  as  did 
another  a  few  years  later  to  begin  the  publication  of  a 
paper  in  Montreal,  the  second  of  its  class  in  Canada. 
The  enterprising  young  man  in  this  venture  was  named 
William  Brown,  and  his  sponsor  was  the  Rev.  William 
Dunlap,  a  relative  of  the  wife  of  Benjamin  Franklin. 
Thinking  there  was  a  fertile  field  here  for  him  to  work, 
he  took  in  as  partner  another  young  man  named  Gil- 
more,  and  the  two  prepared  at  once  for  their  under- 
taking. The  latter  went  to  England  to  buy  material, 
while  Brown  started  for  Quebec  to  make  a  beginning. 
Upon  reaching  Boston,  and  disappointed  in  not  finding 
a  boat  to  take  him  to  Quebec,  he  started  on  horseback 
for  an  overland  journey.      Upon  reaching  Albany,  he 


Abitation  dz 
CLvEBEca 


HABITATION  DE  QUHKEC,  FROM  CHAMPLAIN'S  SKETCH. 
Key  to  illustration  :  A,  Storehouse  ;  B,  Dovecote  ;  C.  Workmen's  lodgings  and 
armoury  ;  D,  Lodgings  for  mechanics  ;  E,  Dial ;  F,  Blacksmith's  shop  and  work- 
men's lodgings;  G,  Galleries;  H,  Champlain's  residence;  I,  Gate  and  draw- 
bridge ;  L,  Walk  ;  M,  Moat  ;  N,  Platform  for  cannon  ;  O,  Garden  ;  P,  Kitchen  ; 
Q,  Vacant  space  ;  R,  St.  Lawrence. 


From  Fur-Trade  to  Commerce  93 

completed  his  trip  by  boat,  going  down  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  the  Richelieu  River  to  Montreal,  and  thence  by 
the  St.  Lawrence  to  his  destination,  which  he  reached 
September  30,  1763.  He  then  began  a  canvass  for 
subscribers,  and  made  all  preparations  for  carrying  on 
the  business,  learning  during  the  interval  the  French 
language.  In  due  season  Gilmore  arrived  from  Lon- 
don with  a  press,  type,  ink,  paper,  and  other  articles 
needed.  The  initial  number  of  the  paper,  called  the 
Quebec  Gazette,  appeared  upon  June  21,  1764,  the  first 
newspaper  printed  in  Canada.  Great  credit  belongs  to 
the  young  men,  who  paid  every  dollar  of  debt  they  had 
incurred,  and  were  very  successful  in  their  endeavours. 

Before  the  British  conquest,  Quebec  had  become 
quite  a  shipbuilding  place,  and  as  many  as  fifty  vessels, 
varying  from  five  hundred  to  two  thousand  tons  burden, 
besides  many  smaller  craft,  were  built  here  in  a  year. 
The  oak  used  in  the  construction  of  these  ships  had  to 
be  brought  from  the  highlands  between  New  France 
and  New  England,  as  that  growing  about  Quebec  was 
too  small  and  inferior  in  quality.  French  war-ships 
were  built  here  for  a  time,  but  finally  the  order  came 
not  to  build  any  more,  as  American  oak  did  not  have 
the  lasting  quality  of  the  European  species. 

As  a  great  maritime  highway,  however,  the  St.  Law- 
rence was  not  really  appreciated  until  within  half  a 
century.  But  a  quarter  of  a  century  before  this,  in 
1 83 1,  Quebec  sent  from  her  stocks,  with  Montreal  fur- 
nishing the   machinery,   the  Royal   William,   the    first 


94  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

steamship  to  cross  the  Atlantic  from  the  St.  Lawrence. 
To  Canada  belongs  the  credit  of  originating  the  pioneer 
line  of  ocean  steamers,  the  Cunard  Line,  founded  by 
Samuel  Cunard,  of  Halifax,  in  1840.  The  first  line  of 
ocean  steamers  plying  directly  between  Quebec  and 
Liverpool  was  the  Allan  Line,  founded  by  Hugh  Allan, 
and  his  first  ship  was  the  Canadian,  built  at  Quebec  in 
1 852-1 853.  Mr.  Allan  met  with  great  obstacles  in  car- 
rying out  his  plans,  but  through  his  indomitable  perse- 
verance won,  and  was  eventually  knighted  in  honour  of 
his  achievement.  To-day  the  St.  Lawrence  is  one  of 
the  greatest  maritime  highways  of  the  world,  and  her 
commerce  extends  to  the  most  distant  ports  of  the 
globe.  Montreal  alone  has  a  shipping  trade  amount- 
ing to  3,500,000  tons  annually,  and  fifteen  transatlantic 
steamship  lines.  At  present  Quebec  has  to  take  a  sec- 
ond place  in  this  department,  though  her  citizens  look 
hopefully  forward  to  the  day  when  she  shall  become  the 
"  Empire  City  "  of  that  great  maritime  nation,  Canada, 
and  her  sister  across  the  way  become  her  Brooklyn. 


Chapter  VIII 
The  Wilderness  Missions 

Four  Recollet  Priests  Come  to  Quebec — Were  Explorers  as  well  as  Missionaries 
—  First  Missions  —  Encouragement  of  Agriculture  —  RecoUets  Forced  to 
Abandon  their  Work — Taken  up  by  the  Jesuits — Work  Interrupted  by  the 
English — Westward  from  the  Ottawa — The  Thessaly  of  Olden  Canada — The 
Huron  Missions  —  The  Mission  of  the  Martyrs  —  College  Established  at 
Quebec. 


M 


ENTION  has  been  made  of  those  who  came  to 
the  valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence  as  religious 
teachers,  and  no  narrative  of  the  great  river 
would  be  complete  without  their  story  and  that  of  the 
wilderness  missions  founded  by  them.  No  story  in  the 
annals  of  history  is  of  more  thrilling  and  pathetic  in- 
terest. It  is  filled  with  such  personal  sacrifices,  trials  of 
fortitude,  and  patient  suffering  as  make  the  tales  of  the 
most  adventurous  explorers  read  like  commonplace  in- 
cidents. If  it  often  showed  confidence  misplaced,  and 
dreams  the  most  sanguine  could  hardly  expect  to  be 
fulfilled,  the  golden  deed  remains  as  a  living  monument 
of  what  man  is  willing  to  do,  to  dare,  and  to  suffer  in 
the  zeal  of  relicrious  work. 

The  missionary  was  the  saviour  of  the  little  bands  of 
colonists  in  New  France  at  the  beginning  of  the  seven- 
teenth century.  Champlain,  himself  half  missionary, 
with  the  other  half  voyageur,  giving  him  a  spirit 

95 


96  The  St  Lawrence  River 

Always  roaming  with  a  hungry  heart, 

encouraged  the  coming  of  the  Jesuits,  though  even  he 
could  not  foresee,  when  a  few  years  later  he  forbade 
the  Huguenots  to  sing  their  psalms  to  the  symphony  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  that  within  a  hundred  and  fifty  years 
\)ci^  fleur-de-lis  he  had  so  proudly  planted  upon  the  forti- 
fied heights  of  Quebec  would  be  torn  down,  and  New 
France,  then  empress  of  America,  would  be  represented 
by  a  few  fishing  islands  clinging  to  the  coast  of  the  great 
country  he  fondly  believed  was  destined  to  reflect  the 
glory  of  Old  France. 

When  Champlain  brought  to  New  France  four 
priests  of  the  Order  of  Recollets  in  1615,  a  religious 
influence  in  more  than  name  was  given  to  the  under- 
taking of  founding  the  colony.  It  should  be  said  to  the 
credit  of  these  new  agents  in  the  work  that  they  came 
with  words  of  peace  and  compassion,  and  a  purpose  to 
do  and  to  suffer.  The  cruelty  of  the  Spanish  missionary 
in  the  South,  which  encircled  the  word  "  Christian " 
with  such  terrors,  was  unknown  here.  The  Indian  of 
Canada,  with  thrice  the  ferocity  of  his  southern  cousin, 
had  no  occasion  to  exclaim  to  those  who  claimed  to  be 
his  Salvationists  : 

"  The  devil  is  more  kind  to  us  ;  we  adore  him  !" 
These  brave  men  and  their  followers  were  not  only 
missionaries  but  explorers  and  discoverers.  Not  only 
did  they  lead  the  way  up  the  Kennebec  from  the  shores 
of  Maine  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  but  they  pierced  the 
wilds    of    the    Saguenay,    and    pushed    overland    from 


^?i 


Kt' 


i^'it. 


^"^ 


m 


K!l 


l^'  lii^s 


'•^iil^ 


i 


The  Wilderness  Missions  97 

Quebec  to  Hudson  Bay,  the  Recollet  Father  Le  Caron 
being  the  first  to  carry  the  cross  to  the  tribes  of  the 
Great  Lakes.  But,  faithfully  as  they  went  about  their 
work,  for  ten  years  these  austere  soldiers  of  the  cross, 
in  their  grey  garbs  of  coarse  gown  and  hood,  with 
wooden  sandals  on  their  feet,  unused  to  the  severe  cli- 
mate of  this  country,  moving  hither  and  thither  through 
the  pathless  wilderness  upon  what  they  believed  to  be 
errands  of  sacred  duty,  met  with  no  perceptible  success, 
thousfh  others,  with  far  less  sacrifice  of  comfort  and 
personal  vanity,  were  reaping  a  harvest  from  trade  and 
from  politics. 

Humiliated  and  dispirited,  but  not  lagging  in  the 
faith,  they  felt  compelled  to  ask  the  succour  of  that 
stronger  brotherhood,  the  Society  of  Jesus,  already 
established  in  Asia,  Africa,  and  South  America.  Three 
of  the  Jesuits  came,  among  them  that  giant  in  figure 
and  intellect,  Jean  de  Brebeuf.  His  companions  were 
Masse  and  Charles  Lalemant.  Even  the  united  efforts 
of  these  do  not  appear  to  have  borne  any  lasting  fruits. 
Quebec  then  was  indeed  but  a  collection  of  a  few  miser- 
able huts.  With  its  surrender  to  Kertk,  the  career  of 
the  Recollets  ended  here,  and  that  of  the  Jesuits  for  the 
time  was  suspended. 

Followinor  the  restoration  of  Quebec  to  the  French, 
the  Jesuits  reorganised  the  mission  here  in  1632,  and  ex- 
tended their  field  of  action  so  as  to  cover  the  whole  of 
New  France,  a  country  reaching  from  the  gulf  to  the 
Mississippi.     Interrupted  by  the  fortunes  of  war,  they 


9^  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

continued  their  herculean  task,  having  first  to  master 
the  language  of  the  people  they  hoped  to  bring  to  an 
understanding  of  their  teachings.  They  established 
missions  at  Three  Rivers,  Montreal,  Sillery,  Becancourt, 
and  St.  Francis  de  Sales.  These  were  intended  for  the 
Algonquins,  who  had  settled  along  the  St.  Lawrence, 
the  Montagnais,  and  such  of  the  Abnakis  as  chose  to 
come  within  the  fold. 

Among  the  most  noted  and  influential  of  the  mis- 
sions was  that  of  the  palisaded  station  first  named  St. 
Joseph,  but  later  honoured  with  the  name  of  Com- 
mander Noel  Brulart  de  Sillery,  who  gave  liberally 
towards  its  founding.  This  was  established  in  1637, 
and  enjoyed  the  distinction  of  accomplishing  the  first 
step  towards  bringing  the  Indians  to  adopt  agricultural 
pursuits.  Here  twenty  Algonquins  were  persuaded  to 
take  up  the  cultivation  of  the  soil,  but  allowed  to  fish 
and  hunt  when  not  actually  needed  among  the  growing 
crops. 

Early  in  their  work,  the  missionaries  had  come  to 
understand  that  the  greatest  dif^culty  they  had  to  con- 
tend with  was  the  fixed  habit  of  the  red  men  to  follow  a 
wandering  life,  fishing,  hunting,  warring,  never  settling 
in  one  place,  and  always  lapsing  from  their  pledges  by 
these  frequent  changes.  Thus  the  missionaries  endeav- 
oured to  interest  them  in  a  more  settled  pursuit.  At  first 
this  worked  in  favour  of  that  growing  power  in  the  new 
country,  the  fur-traders,  but  they  soon  saw  that  if  this 
idea  was  carried  out  it  would  end  or  seriously  curtail 


The  Wilderness  Missions  99 

their  enterprise.  On  the  other  hand,  these  "meets" 
between  the  dusky  hunters  and  the  buyers  of  their 
wares  brought  about  several  evils,  not  the  least  of  which 
was  the  introduction  of  rum.  So  between  the  priest  and 
the  trader,  one  who  thought  only  of  saving  souls,  and 
the  other  of  the  profit  from  his  traf^c,  there  sprang  up 
a  rivalry  which,  at  times,  developed  into  feelings  of 
bitterness  bordering  upon  enmity. 

Eventually  some  Montagnais  joined  the  other  In- 
dians at  Sillery,  and  the  little  hamlet  grew  gradually  into 
importance.  In  1640,  its  usefulness  was  increased  by 
the  opening  of  a  hospital  here  by  the  nuns  of  Quebec. 
This  was  for  the  benefit  of  both  French  and  Indians. 
After  an  existence  of  six  years,  the  laudable  enterprise 
had  to  be  abandoned  on  account  of  the  hostilities  of 
rival  tribes  of  red  men.  Soon  after,  the  chapel  and 
mission  house  were  destroyed  by  fire.  Then  disease 
broke  out  among  the  Indians,  the  soil,  exhausted  by  its 
prodigal  treatment,  refused  to  yield  enough  to  sustain 
its  meagre  population,  and  the  old  Sillery  was  given  up. 
The  descendants  of  its  original  founders  re-established 
themselves  at  a  new  mission  named  St.  Francis  de  Sales, 
soon  better  known  as  the  Mission  of  St  Francis,  of  which 
I  shall  speak  more  anon. 

Father  Bateaux  established  a  mission  at  Three 
Rivers,  formerly  a  trading  station,  to  fall  a  few  years 
later,  1652,  at  the  hands  of  the  Iroquois.  He  made 
some  of  the  longest,  most  difficult,  and  most  painful 
journeys  recorded  among  his  Order. 


loo  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

The  missionary  settlement  of  Montreal  was  founded, 
1 64 1,  by  Maisonneuve,  but  this  mission  was  soon  taken 
in  charge  by  Abbe  d'  Olier,  who  established  in  Paris 
four  years  later  the  "  Priests  of  the  Society  of  St.  Sul- 
pice,"  and  this  colony  was  transferred  to  the  Sulpicians 
in  1656.  Afterwards  this  mission  was  removed  to  the 
Sault  au  Recollet,  and  from  there  to  the  Lake  of  the 
Two  Mountains,  where  it  still  exists,  the  oldest  in 
the  country.  Here  several  tribes  of  red  men,  among 
them  the  Algonquins,  the  Nipissing,  and  the  Iroquois 
descendants,  meet  to-day. 

No  permanent  mission  was  attempted  on  le  grande 
rivilre,  the  Ottawa,  though  this  was  for  some  time  the 
main  way  of  travel  by  the  missionaries  into  the  west. 
The  first  Indians  to  trade  with  the  French  from  the  re- 
gion of  the  Upper  Lakes  were  the  Ottawas,  hence  that 
territory  became  known  as  the  country  of  the  Ottawas, 
though  several  other  tribes  dwelt  within  the  region. 
From  this  came  the  modern  name  of  the  river. 

Looking  westward,  we  behold  the  great  battle-ground 
of  the  races.  Here  were  lighted  the  momentous  coun- 
cil-fires of  the  Iroquois  ;  here  was  carried  from  border 
to  border  the  Huron's  tocsin  of  war ;  and  here  wound 
the  war  trails  of  nations  that  fought,  bled,  and  perished 
in  the  same  cause  that  has  wruno-  tears  from  the  old 
earth  since  it  was  young.  This  was  the  Thessaly  of 
old  Canada.  Here  the  stately  Titanis  mustered  his 
dusky  legions,  and  went  forth  as  did  Varus  of  old 
Rome,    to   vanish    into   the    night    of   the    wilderness. 


05       g 


The  Wilderness  Missions  loi 

Here  was  the  home  of  the  fiery  Pontiac,  who  staked 
his  all  and  lost  on  the  ebb  of  the  tide.  Here,  the  cur- 
tain fallen  upon  the  last  act  in  the  terrible  drama  of 
war,  came  the  noble  Brant  to  teach  his  people  the  ways 
of  peace,  dying  with  his  dream  a-dreaming.  Here  the 
grand  Tecumseh  rallied  his  faithful  followers  in  the 
interest  of  an  alien  race,  and  here  he  fell,  bravely  bat- 
tling for  a  lost  cause.  No  mean  warriors  these,  worthy 
to  stand  shoulder  to  shoulder  with  the  noblest  of  the 
Old  World  heroes.  The  door  to  this  magnificent  coun- 
try was  the  Huron  Mission,  of  which  it  has  been 
truthfully  said  : 

No  men  have,  in  the  zealous  exercise  of  their  faith,  performed 
hardier  deeds  than  these  Jesuits  of  the  Huron  Mission  ;  yet  after 
three  years  of  unremitting  toil,  they  could  [1640]  count  but  a  few 
hundred  converts  out  of  a  population  of  16,000,  and  these  were  for 
the  most  part  sick  infants  or  aged  persons,  who  had  died  soon  after 
baptism.  The  rugged  braves  scorned  the  approaches  of  the  fathers, 
and  unmercifully  tormented  their  converts  ;  the  medicine  men 
waged  continual  warfare  on  their  work  ;  smallpox  and  the  Iroquois 
were  decimating  the  people. 

Still  they  clung  to  their  work,  and  new  missions 
were  undertaken.  During  the  thirty-five  years  in  which 
they  carried  on  their  labours  here,  twenty-nine  mission- 
aries entered  the  field,  five  of  them  sacrificing  their  lives 
on  the  altars  of  their  ambition.  But  the  end  was  in- 
evitable. The  time  came,  in  the  summer  of  1650,  when 
the  few  survivors  of  the  unfortunate  missions  aban- 
doned their  last  resort  on  some  islands  in  Lake  Huron, 
and  with  their  flocks  gladly  accepted  the   hospitality 


I02  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

offered  them  by  the  founders  of  a  small  village  on  the 
Island  of  Orleans,  just  below  Quebec.  Even  here, 
they  soon  found  that  they  had  not  escaped  the  ven- 
geance of  the  Iroquois,  and  they  saved  themselves  only 
by  making  a  desperate  stand  at  Lorette,  also  near  Quebec, 
where  are  still  to  be  found  reminders  of  the  faithful  band. 

At  this  time  the  dusky  allies  of  the  French  against 
the  Iroquois, — the  Montagnais,  the  Hurons,  the  Algon- 
quins,  the  Petuns,  and  the  Neutrals, —  had  suffered  so 
from  the  inroads  of  their  enemies,  not  the  least  among 
which  was  that  of  disease,  that  the  colonists  of  New 
France  were  threatened  with  complete  extinction  at  the 
hands  of  the  Five  Nations.  Not  only  had  the  Jesuits 
reasons  to  be  disheartened,  but  the  coureur  du  bois  had 
found  his  forest  trade  ruined,  and  the  settlements  of 
Quebec,  Three  Rivers,  and  Montreal  were  sorely  op- 
pressed by  an  enemy  that  knew  neither  mercy  nor  the 
limit  of  human  endurance. 

In  1653  came  an  unexpected  overture.  This  was 
nothing  less  than  a  proposal  on  the  part  of  the  Iroquois 
for  peace,  and  an  invitation  to  the  Jesuits  to  establish  a 
mission  in  their  country.  It  was  a  shrewd  act  on  the 
part  of  the  Five  Nations,  as  they  were  anxious  to  dis- 
tract the  French  from  helping  the  routed  Hurons,  Al- 
gonquins,  and  Petuns  to  rally  against  them.  This  was 
essential  to  them,  as  they  had  about  as  much  as  they 
could  attend  to  in  stemmincr  the  tide  of  the  Fries  com- 
ing  in  upon  them  from  the  west,  and  of  the  Susque- 
hannas  from  the  south. 


The  Wilderness  Missions  103 

The  first  missionary  to  enter  the  territory  of  the 
Five  Nations  had  been  Jogues,  1642,  who  went  as  cap- 
tive of  the  Mohawks.  The  second  was  Bressani,  1644, 
who  had  a  similar  introduction,  and  who,  like  the  first, 
after  a  series  of  hazardous  hardships,  eventually  re- 
turned with  the  forlorn  hope  that  he  could  Christianize 
these  warlike  people.  These  two,  with  a  companion  in 
each  case,  suffered  torture  and  death  at  the  hands  of 
those  whom  they  would  fain  have  converted  to  milder 
ways.  In  1659,  the  Iroquois  formed  a  conspiracy  to  kill 
all  of  the  French  within  their  country,  and  then  to  blot 
out  of  existence  the  settlements  in  the  St.  Lawrence 
valley.  Fortunately,  this  plot  was  betrayed  by  one  of 
their  number,  and  the  missionaries  then  among  them 
managed  to  escape  and  reach  Montreal  after  a  series 
of  adventures  of  the  most  hazardous  nature.  Though 
baf^ed  at  the  outset,  the  Iroquois  actually  massed  to 
carry  out  this  far-reaching  plan,  the  sequel  of  which  will 
be  told  in  another  chapter. 

In  the  midst  of  this  unstable  condition,  they  again, 
as  a  subterfuge  possibly,  in  the  person  of  a  Cayuga 
sachem,  asked  for  another  visit  from  the  black-robed 
Fathers.  As  usual,  the  appeal  was  not  made  in  vain, 
the  fearless,  patient  Le  Moyne  answering  the  summons 
this  time.  He  passed  the  winter  with  them.  It  was 
not  until  five  3'ears  later,  however,  when  the  French 
had  become  strong  enough  to  subdue  four  of  the  allied 
tribes,  the  Cayugas,  Oneidas,  Onondagas,  and  Senecas, 
that  the  missionary  could  go  among  them  without  fear 


I04  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

and  trembling.  The  Mohawks,  still  stubborn,  were 
humbled  and  humiliated  only  when  their  village  had 
been  laid  in  ruins.  Among  the  converts  of  this  period 
was  one  at  least  worthy  of  mention.  She  was  an 
Iroquois  woman  known  as  Catharine  Tegakouita, 
"the  Iroquois  saint."  She  afterwards  founded  a  native 
mission  on  the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

The  French  did  not  wholly  retire  from  this  field 
until  1687,  when  the  English  had  become  so  strong  that 
they  felt  obliged  to  abandon  an  enterprise  which  at 
Its  most  prosperous  period  was  barren  of  great  result. 
The  New  York  Indians  who  had  been  attracted  to  the 
valley  of  the  St,  Lawrence  were  cared  for  at  a  palisaded 
mission,  nearly  opposite  Montreal,  known  as  the  St. 
Francis  Xavier.  This  mission,  which  was  originally  an 
outpost  against  the  marauding  Iroquois,  was  subse- 
quently removed  to  Sault  St.  Louis,  and  is  known  to 
this  day  as  Caughnawaga. 

The  accounts  of  the  sufferings  and  hardships  borne 
by  these  pious  followers  of  the  cross  surpass  the  belief 
of  the  most  humane,  and  overleap  the  imagination  of 
those  who  have  not  read  them.  It  would  seem  as  if  the 
savage  mind  invented  every  form  of  cruelty  that  was 
possible  to  punish  these  heroic  men  who  were  sacri- 
ficing everything  for  them.  Among  them,  none  could 
exceed  the  Mohawks  in  their  ingenious  and  devilish 
atrocities,  hence  the  labour  undertaken  in  their  midst 
has  appropriately  been  distinguished  as  "The  Mission 
of  the  Martyrs." 


The  Wilderness  Missions  105 

So  assiduously  did  they  apply  themselves  to  the  task 
in  hand,  that  within  seven  years  of  their  second  arrival 
they  had  accomplished  the  exploration  of  the  country 
to  the  borders  of  Lake  Superior,  and  thence  down  the 
Mississippi  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  On  the  shores  of 
the  Great  Lakes,  they  established  their  outposts  of 
civilisation  while  yet  the  battle-cry  of  a  savage  race 
was  awakening  the  fastnesses  of  the  wilderness, —  all 
this  before  the  sturdy  New  Englander  had  cared  to 
push  away  from  the  seacoast,  and  while  the  slow-mov- 
ing Dutch  were  occupied  within  their  limited  domains. 
Before  Eliot,  of  New  England,  had  addressed  a  single 
word  to  the  Indians  within  six  miles  of  Boston  Har- 
bour, Le  Jeune,  Brebeuf,  and  others  had  mastered  the 
Algonquin  and  Huron  tongues,  and  were  preaching  to 
the  dusky  congregations  in  their  own  language. 

Neither  the  conversion  of  souls  nor  exploration  was 
their  paramount  purpose,  for  the  education  of  the 
young  was  ever  in  their  mind.  In  1637,  while  the 
English  were  debating  the  building,  upon  the  banks 
of  the  river  Charles,  of  Harvard  University,  a  Jesuit 
named  Rene  de  Rohaut  established  a  school  for  Indian 
children  and  a  college  for  French  boys  at  Quebec. 
The  first  pupil  came  from  the  Huron  country,  under 
the  charge  of  Father  Daniel,  who,  in  1648,  fell  with 
half  a  dozen  Iroquois  bullets  in  his  body,  the  second 
Christian  martyr  in  New  France.  Nicollet,  who  had 
spent  so  much  time  among  the  Indians  to  learn  their 
language,  succeeded  in  furnishing  several  subjects  for 


io6  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

the  training  of  the  pious  teachers.  But  these  dusky 
seekers  after  knowledge  came  with  little  aspiration  for 
light,  and  Father  Le  Jeune  confesses  that  some  ran 
away  ;  one  was  kidnapped  by  parents  who  could  not  ap- 
preciate the  golden  opportunity  open  to  their  offspring, 
while  two  others  met  more  ignoble  fates  by  gorging 
themselves  to  death  with  —  not  overstudy,  but  over- 
eating !  The  college  building,  which  was  a  wooden 
structure,  was  made  into  a  soldiers'  barracks  upon  the 
occupation  of  the  city  by  the  English. 

It  is  fortunate  for  those  who  seek  for  a  knowledge 
of  the  scenes  in  which  they  figured  that  the  missionaries 
were  faithful  chroniclers  of  what  they  saw  and  did,  and 
that  the  French  Government  required  them  to  render 
such  reports  from  time  to  time.  The  style  of  these 
writers  was  simple  in  the  extreme,  while  a  pathetic  inter- 
est pervades  all  they  say.  There  is  no  other  source  of 
early  history  which  contains  so  much  of  the  customs, 
religion,  legends,  and  language  of  the  native  races.  The 
Jesuit  Relations  was  originally  published  in  forty  small 
octavo  volumes,  and  is  now  (1904)  being  reprinted,  in 
Cleveland,  in  a  definitive  edition  comprising  73  volumes. 


Chapter  IX 
The  Beorinnins:  of  Montreal 

Founders  of  the  Ursuline  Convent  in  Quebec — Maisonneuve,  the  Champlain  of 
Montreal — The  Heroines  of  Ville-Marie — A  Canadian  Regulus — The  Holy 
Wars  of  Early  Montreal. 

IT  must  not  be  supposed  by  those  reading  the  story 
of  the  wilderness  missions  that  all  of  the  heroism 
of  founding  the  Catholic  Church  in  New  France 
belonged  to  the  sterner  sex.  From  among  the  gentler 
followers  of  the  cross  came  spirits  equally  brave  and 
self-sacrificing.  The  touching  and  beautiful  pictures 
the  devout  Fathers  sent  home,  in  spite  of  the  pain  and 
the  burden  they  had  taken  upon  themselves,  found 
sympathetic  hearts  in  court  ladies  and  youthful  nuns. 
Many  young  and  beautiful  maids  and  matrons  promptly 
vowed  themselves  ready  to  help  in  the  grand  work  of 
upbuilding  the  missions  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

"  A  charitable  and  virtuous  lady  is  needed  here  to 
teach  the  word  of  Christ  to  little  Indian  girls,"  wrote 
Father  Le  Jeune,  nothing  discouraged  by  the  obstacles 
constantly  rising  in  his  path  of  trying  to  educate  the 
dusky  youths.  No  sooner  was  his  touching  request 
heralded  across  the  water,  than  thirteen  nuns  from  one 
convent  pledged  their  lives  to  work  in  the  good  cause 

107 


io8  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

in  Quebec,  or  wherever  they  should  be  called.  This 
same  appeal  awakened  the  religious  ecstasy  of  another, 
even  as  the  religious  zeal  of  the  young  and  beautiful 
Madame  Champlain  had  been  stirred  twenty  years  be- 
fore into  a  determination  to  devote  her  life  to  the 
work.  This  good  and  pious  woman  was  the  widow 
of  the  lamented  De  la  Peltrie,  and,  left  childless,  she 
resolved  to  become  a  nun.  In  vain  her  father,  to 
force  her  to  marry  again,  threatened  to  disinherit  her. 
Upon  the  advice  of  a  Jesuit  she  did  allow  arrange- 
ments to  be  made  for  the  form  of  a  marriage,  but  the 
death  of  her  father,  soon  after,  left  her  free  to  carry 
out  the  purpose  which  now  absorbed  her  life.  From 
the  convent  at  Tours  she  easily  secured  three  nuns  to 
help  her  in  founding  an  Ursuline  convent  at  Quebec. 
One  of  these  companions  became  the  noted  Marie  de 
r Incarnation,  then  a  tall,  regal  woman  of  forty,  with  a 
romantic  and  pathetic  history.  She  was  both  a  widow 
and  a  mother,  having  been  married  at  seventeen,  and 
left  without  a  husband  at  nineteen.  It  was  only  after 
long  and  earnest  meditation,  severe  discipline,  and  de- 
vout supplication  to  the  power  upholding  her  that  she 
could  finally  separate  herself  from  her  child.  When 
she  had  at  last  concluded  to  take  the  veil,  she  was  re- 
ceived by  the  Ursulines  of  Tours  with  great  rejoicing. 
She  was  made  Superior  of  the  new  convent  at  Quebec, 
and  proved  herself  to  be  worthy  of  the  hopes  of  her 
associates. 

M.  de  Montmagny,  a  Knight  of  Malta,  had  become 


MARIE  GUYARD  (MERE  MARIE  DE  L'INCARNATION.) 


I 


i 


The  Beginning  of  Montreal  109 

the  successor  of  Champlain,  and  though  lacking  the 
other's  resourceful  enthusiasm  he  did  fairly  well.  He 
rebuilt,  in  stone,  Fort  St.  Louis,  close  to  the  precipice  ; 
he  restored  the  fallen  tenements  of  Champlain's  first 
habitation ;  he  saw  the  first  Hdtel-Dieu  rise  on  the 
cliff  commanding  the  valley  of  the  St.  Charles  ;  and  he 
looked  with  satisfaction  upon  the  progress  of  Quebec's 
lonely  farmer,  Louis  Hebert.  He  had  encouraged  the 
brave  Ursuline  sisters  to  found  their  mission  at  Sillery, 
where  they  nobly  contended  with  disease  and  dangers 
such  as  must  have  discouraged  less  brave  hearts.  A 
memorial  of  their  unselfish  work  endures  to-day  in  the 
cloisters  of  Garden  Street,  where  in  the  sweet  repose 
of  seclusion  gentle  followers  of  their  faith  minister  still 
to  the  maids  of  French-speaking  Quebec  ;  and  yet  an- 
other exists  in  Palace  Hill  Hospital,  where  the  suffering 
are  cared  for  as  tenderly  as  in  the  dark  days  of  Indian 
invasion  when  their  Order  undertook  the  humane  work 
of  establishino-  itself  among-  the  wilderness  missions 
of  1639. 

Not  alone  was  Quebec  the  scene  of  womanly  devo- 
tion to  duty  and  religion,  but  already  the  gaze  of  some 
of  the  religious  spirits  of  France  was  turned  upon  the 
island  situated  at  the  vortex  of  two  rivers,  both  im- 
portant waterways  for  trade  with  the  natives  of  the  in- 
terior. The  very  fact  that  this  was  in  the  midst  of  one 
of  the  most  troublesome  periods  of  Indian  invasions 
made  it  the  more  imperative  that  an  outpost  should 
be  established  here.     Mention  has  already  been  made 


no  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

of  the  founding  of  the  mission  of  Montreal  by  Maison- 
neuve,  under  the  patronage  of  M.  Dauversiere  and  M. 
d'Oher,  who  estabHshed,  four  years  later,  the  Order  of 
St.  Sulpice.  The  island  of  Montreal  then  belonged 
to  M.  Lauzon,  one  of  the  Hundred  Associates,  who 
was  induced  to  transfer  his  title,  with  the  reserve  that 
they  should  not  engage  in  the  fur-trade  nor  build  forts. 
The  Society  of  Notre  Dame  de  Montreal  was  then 
organised,  and  the  leadership  of  the  undertaking  in- 
trusted to  that  brave  Christian  knight,  Paul  de  Maison- 
neuve,  who  was  worthy  to  wear  the  mantle  of  Champlain, 
and  by  his  untiring  efforts  linked  his  name  inseparably 
with  the  queen  city  of  Canadian  commerce,  no  little 
honour. 

Neither  does  all  of  the  credit  belong  to  this  brave 
man.  Among  those  who  became  interested  in  the  laud- 
able enterprise  was  a  devout  lady.  Mademoiselle  Mance, 
who  joined  the  mission,  and  encouraged  three  other 
women  to  go  with  the  settlers.  Forty-two  men,  be- 
sides Maisonneuve  and  the  three  women,  after  meeting 
at  the  church  of  Notre  Dame,  at  Paris,  to  consecrate 
the  new  settlement,  which  they  had  christened  Ville 
Marie  de  Montreal,  set  sail  for  New  France. 

Delayed  in  getting  started,  they  did  not  reach  Que- 
bec in  season  to  continue  up  to  their  proposed  stopping- 
place.  Here  they  met  with  an  opposition  they  had  not 
expected.  Montmagny  opposed  the  scheme  upon  the 
exceedingly  plausible  ground  that  the  settlers  were 
needed  at  Quebec  ;  that  it  would  be  folly  to  try  and 


The  Beginning  of  Montreal  iii 

establish  another  settlement  in  the  very  teeth  of  the 
enemy,  when  he  had  all  he  could  do  to  defend  his  own 
flock.  The  governor  knew  whereof  he  spoke.  Only  a 
short  time  before  had  the  Iroquois,  grown  bold  and 
sinister  with  their  previous  successes  against  their  rival 
tribes,  sent  two  Frenchmen,  whom  they  had  captured, 
in  advance  of  their  large  force,  to  demand  the  surrender 
of  the  post  at  Three  Rivers.  The  terms  proposed  were 
for  the  French  to  accept  an  armistice  of  peace,  and 
leave  their  Algonquin  allies  to  the  mercy  of  their  foes. 
The  messenger,  whose  name  was  Frangois  Marguerie, 
under  a  flag  of  truce,  did  as  he  was  bid  in  delivering  the 
infamous  message  intrusted  to  him.  Then,  seeing  his 
countrymen  wavering  in  their  duty,  knowing  the  fearful 
odds  they  were  facing,  he  broke  forth  into  a  defiant  state- 
ment of  their  duty  to  the  allies  who  had  always  stood 
by  them,  and  who  would  be  butchered  in  cold  blood  by 
the  Iroquois  did  they  accept  such  conditions  of  peace. 
His  bold  words  saved  the  honour  of  New  France,  and 
it  was  decided  that  a  desperate  stand  should  be  made 
until  the  last.  Marguerie  was  then  advised  to  remain 
with  them,  as  it  was  known  he  would  be  put  to  the 
most  fiendish  torture  should  he  return  to  his  captors 
after  having  betrayed  them  in  this  manner.  But  this 
modern  Regulus  pointed  out  that  if  he  did  not  go  back, 
his  companion,  who  was  held  as  hostage  until  he  should 
return,  would  have  to  suffer  in  his  place.  Under  these 
circumstances  Marguerie  heroically  bade  adieu  to  his 
companions  and  went  back  to  meet  his  fate.     Fortun- 


112  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

ately,  the  delay  caused  by  this  parley  enabled  the  gov- 
ernor to  send  a  small  body  of  reinforcements  to  the 
post,  and  upon  learning  of  this  the  Iroquois  abandoned 
the  siege.  They  also  consented  to  let  Marguerie  and 
his  companion  go  free  upon  a  ransom,  and  thus  the 
hero  was  spared  the  fate  that  he  expected  when  he 
decided  upon  his  bold  stand. 

Maisonneuve  was  equally  firm  in  his  purpose.  He 
showed  how  he  was  simply  an  agent  with  an  appointed 
duty  before  him.  "  I  have  not  come  here  to  deliber- 
ate," he  declared,  "but  to  act.  It  is  my  duty  and  my 
honour  to  found  a  colony  at  Montreal ;  and  I  would 
go  if  every  tree  were  an  Iroquois."  That  autumn,  Octo- 
ber 14,  1 64 1,  the  site  of  Ville-Marie  was  dedicated,  but 
the  settlers  wintered  in  Quebec,  where  their  leader  was 
looked  upon  by  the  governor  as  his  rival  in  power.  He 
softened  somewhat  in  his  attitude  with  the  coming  of 
spring,  and  accompanied  the  colonists  upon  their  trip  in 
May  to  their  future  homes. 

Over  the  route  that  is  now  accomplished  by  one 
of  the  river  steamers  in  as  many  hours,  Maison- 
neuve's  little  fleet  forged  its  way  for  fifteen  days,  when, 
on  the  17th  of  May,  the  rounded  slopes  of  Mount 
Royal,  clad  in  the  delicate  green  foliage  of  spring,  burst 
into  sight,  stirring  the  hearts  of  the  anxious  beholders 
with  new-found  joy.  They  were  delighted  with  the 
scenery,  the  fragrance  of  the  springing  forest  per- 
meated the  balmy  air,  and,  what  was  dearer  far  to  them, 
over  the  water  and  over  the  landscape  rested  an  air 


The  Beginning  of  Montreal  113 

of  peace  quite  in  keeping  with  their  pious  purpose. 
There  was  nothing  save  rumours  of  an  enemy  that  never 
allowed  their  vengeance  to  sleep,  to  forewarn  them  of 
the  bloody  deeds  so  soon  to  be  enacted  upon  that  fair 
scene. 

As  belonged  to  him,  Maisonneuve  was  the  first  to 
step  upon  the  land,  and  as  the  others  followed  him. 
Mademoiselle  Mance  next  to  their  leader,  they  fell 
upon  their  knees,  sending  up  their  songs  of  praise  and 
thanksgiving.  Their  first  work  was  to  erect  an  altar  at 
a  favourable  spot  within  sight  and  sound  of  the  river- 
bank,  the  women  decorating-  the  rough  woodwork  with 
some  of  the  wild-flowers  growing  in  abundance  upon 
the  island,  until  the  whole  looked  very  beautiful.  Then 
every  member  of  the  party,  from  the  stately  Governor 
Montmagny,  in  his  courtly  dress,  the  tall,  dignified 
Maisonneuve,  the  fair,  brave  women,  with  their  female 
attendants,  lending  grace  to  the  scene  by  their  presence, 
to  the  humbler  persons, — the  artisans,  soldiers,  and 
sailors, — knelt  in  solemn  silence  while  M.  Barthelemy 
Vimont,  the  Superior  of  the  Jesuits,  in  his  dark,  ecclesi- 
astical robes,  performed  the  ceremony  of  high  mass. 
As  he  closed,  he  addressed  his  little  congregation  with 
these  prophetic  words  : 

"  You  are  a  grain  of  mustard  seed  that  shall  rise 
and  grow  till  its  branches  overshadow  the  earth.  You 
are  few,  but  your  work  is  the  work  of  God.  His  smile 
is  on  you,  and  your  children  shall  fill  the  land." 

Speedily  the  site  of  Ville-Marie  was  surrounded  by 


114  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

a  palisade,  but  the  hospital  erected  by  them  was  set 
outside  of  this  wall.  This  was  a  stone  structure,  look- 
ing more  like  a  fortress,  which  it  proved  to  be  in  the 
battles  to  come.  The  summer  passed  quietly,  while  a 
little  village  of  small  wooden  houses  sprang  up  around 
the  spot.  A  small  chapel  was  built  over  the  altar. 
Happily  the  band  remained  in  ignorance  of  the  bitter 
strife  being  waged  all  around  them. 

As  yet  the  Iroquois  had  not  discovered  the  presence 
of  this  party  of  brave  colonists  daring  to  invade  terri- 
tory they  claimed  belonged  to  them.  Certainly  they 
had  shed  blood  enough  to  possess  it.  But  all  too  soon 
the  discovery  was  made,  when  they  patrolled  the  woods 
in  large  bodies  and  in  small,  waiting  for  the  opportunity 
to  strike  the  blow  which  should  sweep  this  new  outpost 
from  existence.  The  stockade  was  deemed  insufficient 
to  meet  such  an  enemy,  and  it  was  replaced  by  solid 
walls  and  bastions.  This  summer  was  passed  in  anx- 
iety and  alarm.  The  cultivation  of  the  soil  had  to  be 
abandoned,  except  as  it  was  done  under  the  protection 
of  arms.  The  fuel  needed  to  keep  them  warm  during 
the  cold  weather  had  to  be  procured  under  cover  of 
arms.  Cut  off  from  intercourse  with  the  posts  below, 
that  were  experiencing  equal  extremities,  Ville-Marie 
was  little  better  than  a  prison-pen.  The  Iroquois  held 
a  rough  fort  at  Lachine,  and  had  openly  declared  that 
they  would  not  rest  until  they  had  cleared  the  country  of 
both  French  and  Algonquins.  Some  Hurons,  falling  into 
a  trap  of  their  setting,  to  save  themselves  betrayed  their 


The  Beginning  of  Montreal  115 

allies,  and  assured  them  that  it  would  be  an  easy  matter 
to  capture  Ville-Marie,  which  was  too  poorly  equipped 
to  stand  a  siege. 

Another  winter  passed  in  inactivity.  Now  and  then 
the  enemy  had  been  seen,  and  an  occasional  skirmish 
took  place,  but  Maisonneuve  counselled  prudence.  As 
might  have  been  expected,  some  of  his  men  began  to 
murmur,  saying  that  a  bold  onset  would  scatter  the 
foes.  Their  sagacious  leader  replied  that  a  single  de- 
feat would  ruin  all.  Better  to  remain  inactive  and 
watchful  than  to  hazard  their  fate  by  overconfidence 
in  their  strength.  That  fall  the  little  colony  had  re- 
ceived from  France  several  watch-dogs,  which  proved 
remarkably  intelHgent  and  useful.  One,  named  Pilote, 
was  especially  helpful,  acting  as  scout  and  sentinel, 
leading  her  train  in  evident  enjoyment  upon  her  round 
of  duties. 

One  morning  in  early  spring,  while  the  snow  still 
lay  deep  upon  the  ground,  Pilote  was  sent  out  upon  her 
daily  round  of  reconnoissance.  She  had  not  been  gone 
many  minutes  before  she  came  bounding  back,  barking 
furiously,  as  much  as  to  say,  "  The  enemy  are  skulking 
in  the  woods."  "  Let  us  prove  if  the  dog  be  right  or 
not,"  said  the  soldiers  among  themselves,  and  Maison- 
neuve answered  promptly  that  they  should  have  the 
opportunity  to  see  all  the  fighting  they  would  care  for. 

Eagerly  the  men,  whose  bravery  over-ruled  their 
better  judgment,  armed  themselves  with  guns,  and 
fastened  snow-shoes  upon   their  feet.     As   there  were 


ii6  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

not  enough  of  the  latter  for  all,  some  went  without. 
Thus,  in  battle  array,  Maisonneuve  marched  his  band  of 
thirt)-  out  of  the  fort  into  the  clearing,  covered  deeply 
with  the  melting  snow.  Entering  the  deep  forest  they 
could  see  no  sign  of  the  enemy,  and  the  soldiers  began 
to  think  that  Pilote  had  given  a  false  alarm.  Then  a 
volley  of  bullets  and  arrows  whistled  around  their  heads, 
and  the  words  of  Maisonneuve  proved  a  prophecy  of 
truth,  when  every  tree  became  an  Iroquois  ! 

The  suddenness  of  the  attack,  the  outburst  of  yells 
coming  from  throats  of  demons,  fairly  paralysed  the 
soldiers,  who  were  unused  to  Indian  warfare.  Massed 
in  a  bunch  they  must  have  fallen  easy  targets  for  the 
arms  of  the  Iroquois,  who  were  exultant  over  their  sur- 
prise, had  not  their  leader  proved  himself  wise  enough 
to  order  them  to  get  behind  the  trees.  Three  or  four 
were  already  killed  and  several  wounded.  The  brave 
fellows  returned  the  fire  of  the  Iroquois,  and,  reloading 
their  firearms,  poured  a  second  volley  into  the  forest, 
though  few,  if  any,  of  their  bullets  took  effect.  Maison- 
neuve was  shrewd  to  see  that  such  a  fight,  if  continued, 
was  sure  to  end  disastrously  to  them,  so  he  ordered  a 
retreat,  instructing  his  men  to  bear  off  the  dead,  and  to 
gain  a  sledge-path  leading  to  the  fort.  Nothing  loath 
they  obeyed,  while  the  gallant  Maisonneuve  covered 
their  retreat  with  his  pistols,  the  Indians  following  upon 
their  steps,  while  they  dodged  from  tree  to  tree.  Upon 
gaining  the  sledge-track  the  soldiers  fled  in  such  dis- 
order to  the  fort  that  the)'  were  mistaken  by  the  occu- 


SIEUR    DE    MAISONNEUVE. 


« 


The  Beginning  of  Montreal  1 1 7 

pants  for  the  enemy,  and,  but  for  a  timely  warning  from 
one  of  the  women  would  have  received  a  volley  of 
bullets  from  their  friends. 

With  a  pistol  in  either  hand  Maisonneuve  slowly 
followed  his  men,  keeping  his  eye  upon  his  foes,  who 
refrained  from  shooting  him,  as  they  now  considered  it 
a  great  honour  to  capture  such  an  enemy  alive.  War- 
wise  in  this  course  of  action,  the  brave  captain  kept 
them  at  bay,  until  the  last  of  his  soldiers  had  got  within 
the  gate,  with  the  bodies  of  the  dead  and  the  wounded. 
Then  he  began  to  look  to  his  own  safety,  when  an  Iro- 
quois chief,  seeing  their  last  opportunity  of  capturing 
him  slipping  away,  sprang  boldly  forward  to  intercept 
him.  But  Maisonneuve  proved  that  he  was  alert  for 
such  an  act,  and  before  the  other  could  close  in  upon 
him  he  sent  a  bullet  through  his  brain.  The  next  mo- 
ment he  leaped  inside  of  the  gate,  gladly  opened  to  him 
by  his  anxious  companions,  who  shouted  for  joy  over 
his  escape.  Henceforth  no  man  ever  questioned  the 
courage  of  their  leader,  who  had  shown  himself  a  hero. 

The  death  of  the  chief  threw  the  Iroquois  into  such 
confusion  that  his  body  was  dragged  away  without  fur- 
ther attack  being  made.  The  spot  where  the  valiant 
Maisonneuve  stood  when  he  fired  the  shot  that  saved 
himself  and  his  friends  is  now  known  in  commemora- 
tion of  his  deed  as  Place  d! Amies.  And  so  prophetic 
have  the  words  of  the  Jesuit  Father  proved  that  it  lies 
in  the  heart  of  a  great  commercial  city  and  near  to  that 
noted   church,   Notre    Dame,  the  largest  cathedral   in 


ii8  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

America,  with  the  exception  of  one  other  standing  on 
the  site  of  the  ancient  Aztec  pyramid  of  Mexico. 

While  a  period  of  comparative  peace  followed  for  a 
time,  this  little  outpost  of  civilisation  was  never  free 
from  concern  over  its  safety.  Making  the  Richelieu 
River,  as  they  had  always  done,  their  main  entrance 
into  the  valley  of  the  St,  Lawrence,  the  Iroquois  would 
lie  in  ambush  along  Lake  St.  Peter  to  intercept  the  fur- 
traders  coming  down  from  the  upper  country,  or  send 
their  scouting  parties  farther  down  the  stream  to  waylay 
whomever  they  could  find.  As  has  been  mentioned, 
Montmagny  built  a  fort  at  its  mouth,  but  this,  though 
meeting  successfully  an  attack  upon  it,  the  wily  red  man 
found  many  ways  to  get  around,  and  maintain  a  barrier 
of  armed  forces  between  this  upper  outpost  on  the  St. 
Lawrence  and  the  settlements  below.  This  state  of 
affairs  lasted  for  over  ten  years  without  an  abatement 
of  its  terrors  and  its  horrors.  During  the  interval  the 
Jesuits,  in  the  person  of  Father  Jogues,  had  their  first 
experience  in  the  homeland  of  the  Iroquois.  In  the 
west  the  Huron  missions  had  suffered  beyond  the 
power  of  description,  until  finally  the  few  survivors  fled 
toward  Quebec,  finding  a  place  of  refuge  at  Sorel. 

At  this  time  the  colonists  of  New  Eno-land  were 
enjoying  peace  and  a  rapid  growth  of  population.  The 
confederacy  known  as  "The  United  Colonies  of  New 
England  "was  formed  to  secure  such  protection  as  could 
be  obtained  from  a  union  of  interests.  Hitherto,  and  in 
the  years  to  follow,  however,  the  settlements  in  New 


The  Beginning  of  Montreal  119 

England  and  those  in  the  valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
might  flourish,  whether  planning  war  upon  each  other 
or  enduring  internal  strife  at  home,  neither  knew,  or 
seemed  to  care,  what  the  other  was  doing.  At  this 
time,  however,  the  eyes  of  the  prosperous  New  Eng- 
landers  became  turned  upon  the  region  along  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  a  treaty  of  perpetual  amity  was  pro- 
posed between  New  France  and  New  England.  Com- 
ing in  the  midst  of  such  distress  as  the  former  colonists 
were  enduring  it  was  received  with  joy  by  them. 
Montmagny  had  been  succeeded  as  governor  by  D'Aille- 
boust,  and  he  immediately  sent  as  a  representative  to 
act  in  their  behalf  Father  Druilettes  to  confer  with  the 
Eno-lish  council  at  Boston.  Smarting  under  the  terrible 
blows  being  dealt  against  them  by  their  unswerving 
foes,  the  Government  at  Quebec  stipulated  that  one 
condition  of  the  treaty  should  be  that  the  colonists  of 
New  England  should  join  with  them  in  exterminating 
the  Iroquois.  This  the  latter  stoutly  refused  to  do. 
An  armistice  of  peace  had  existed  between  them  and 
the  Five  Nations  which  they  had  no  desire  to  break. 
The  emissary  from  Canada  was  firm  in  his  demands, 
and  so  the  negotiations  came  to  naught.  Disappointed 
In  this  direction  Druilettes  resolved  to  secure  an  ally 
elsewhere,  and  so  astutel}"  did  he  manage  matters  that 
he  won  over  to  his  cause  the  AbnakI  tribes  in  the  east, 
who  had  shown  but  little  disposition  to  be  unfriendly 
to  the  English.  So,  Instead  of  averting  bloodshed  as 
they  had  hoped,  the  New  Englanders  were  drawn  Into 


I20  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

a  series  of  struggles  and  bush  battles  which,  with  few 
and  short  cessations,  lengthened  into  a  war  lasting  over 
a  hundred  years. 

Nor  were  the  French  able  to  escape  what  they  had 
hoped  to  throw  off  in  a  large  measure.  Learning  of 
this  intrigue  the  Iroquois  became  more  bitter  than 
before  in  their  hostilities.  Their  lonely  settlements  in 
the  heart  of  New  France  never  rested  in  peace.  Un- 
der the  canopy  of  the  great  forest  skulked  a  foe  that 
never  slept,  and  so  bold  did  he  grow  that  his  war- 
plumes  danced  under  the  very  guns  of  St.  Louis  on 
the  fortified  rock  of  Quebec.  If  the  brave  hearts  at 
Quebec  fairly  hushed  their  beating,  how  silent  it  must 
have  been  behind  the  walls  of  Ville-Marie  !  Fasting, 
penance,  and  prayer  reigned  supreme  among  these 
brave,  but  well-nigh  hopeless,  colonists,  only  fifty  in 
number,  and  environed  by  a  wilderness  that  was  a 
veritable  beehive  of  dusky  foemen. 

In  1653,  while  the  Iroquois  were  busy  in  exterminat- 
ing another  tribe  of  red  men,  the  Fries,  the  colonists  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  were  given  a  breathing  spell.     The 
missionaries  were  brought  into  renewed  activity,  being 
called  among  the  rival  tribes  to  carry  on  their  work  of 
building    missions   and  saving    souls.      But   the    cloak 
of  promised  protection  held  under  its  folds  the  viper  of 
death.     The  Five  Nations  of  the  Iroquois  were  agreed! 
to  unite   in  exterminating  the  missionaries  and  attend-' 
ants  in  their  midst,  and  then  sweep  the  St.  Lawrence  1 
valley  clean    of    Frenchmen,    which    has    already  been' 


The  Beginning  of  Montreal  121 

mentioned.  The  hero  of  this  scene  in  the  drama  of 
races  was  the  intrepid  Dupuy,  who  was  in  command  of 
a  Httle  band  under  the  supposed  protection  of  the 
Onondaga  Mission.  Learning  from  secret  sources  of 
the  plot  of  the  Indians,  he  had  his  men  construct  some 
very  light  boats  within  cover  of  the  fort.  As  soon  as 
these  were  completed  he  invited  the  Onondagas  to  a 
feast,  which  was  so  liberally  furnished  that  the  Indians 
ate  and  drank  themselves  into  an  unnatural  sleep. 
While  they  slumbered  their  entertainers  stole  away 
with  their  boats  upon  their  shoulders.  Reaching  the 
Oswego  River,  though  it  was  in  mid-March  they  suc- 
ceeded in  making  their  passage  to  the  lake,  and  from 
thence  down  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Quebec. 

In  the  meantime  at  Ville-Marie,  Mademoiselle 
Mance,  though  beginning  to  feel  the  infirmities  of 
years,  with  her  associates,  was  kept  busy  caring  for  the 
sick  and  wounded  at  her  hospital.  Another  brave  wo- 
man, young  in  years,  and  with  a  good  inheritance  had 
she  remained  at  home  to  enjoy  it,  came  to  Ville-Marie 
to  teach  the  children,  opening  her  school  in  a  stable, 
lodging  herself  in  the  loft.  In  fact,  others  of  the  gentle 
sex  found  their  way  upon  this  stormy  scene,  lured 
hither  by  intoxicating  stones  of  the  good  they  might 
accomplish  among  the  poor  and  needy.  Many  of  these 
came  through  the  agency  of  that  arch-scoundrel,  Dau- 
versiere,  whose  name  has  already  been  mentioned.  It 
was  even  claimed  that  he  had  kidnapped  and  sold  them 
into  this  life  of  sacrifice. 


122  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

As  well  as  men  and  women  the  missions  needed 
money,  and  in  1658  Mademoiselle  Mance  and  Mar- 
guerite Bourgeoys,  a  young  teacher,  visited  France  to 
solicit  aid.  They  were  so  successful,  through  the  aid  of 
the  Sulpicians,  that  a  large  body  of  emigrants  came  with 
them  upon  their  return,  and  an  energetic  Sulpician 
Father,  the  Abbe  de  Queylus.  The  latter  established 
the  seminary  which  had  long  been  the  dream  of  the 
colony.  The  dwellings  were  increased  to  fifty  well- 
built  houses,  compactly  situated,  and  protected  by  a 
fort  and  stone  windmill  where  is  now  St.  Paul  Street. 

The  brief  term  of  peace  which  had  allowed  this  hope- 
ful upbuilding  now  proved  but  a  lull  in  the  storm  of 
what  has  passed  into  history  as  the  "  Holy  Wars  of 
Montreal."  The  Iroquois  again  took  the  war  trail, 
fiercer,  stronger  than  ever.  Victims  were  scalped 
within  sight  and  sound  of  the  only  stronghold  within 
New  France.  Thither  fled  the  frightened  nuns  from 
their  stone  convents,  and  thither  the  fur-traders  and 
voyageurs  looked  for  succour.  In  the  midst  of  this 
thrilling  situation  intelligence  was  brought  of  a  great 
war-party  of  Iroquois  descending  the  Ottawa  River 
to  hurl  itself  upon  Ville-Marie.  Under  its  impending 
doom,  amid  the  prayers  of  priests  and  women,  rose  the 
hero  of  this  occasion,  a  young  nobleman^  named  Adam 
Daulac,  Sieur  des  Ormeaux,  since  frequently  called  Dol- 
lard,  who  had  come  to  Montreal  a  short  time  before,  as 
it  would  seem,  for  just  such  an  opportunity  as  this. 
His  story  is  worthy  of  a  separate  chapter. 


Chapter  X 
Spartans  of  Canada 

The  Story  of  Daulac  and  his  Heroic  Band,  Every  Man  of  whom  Died  for  New 
France — How  Twenty-two  Heroes  Held  Seven  Hundred  Iroquois  Warriors 
at  Bay. 

THE  pioneer  days  of  all  countries  are  filled  with 
deeds  of  heroism,  and  the  names  of  many  he- 
roes and  heroines  stand  boldly  out  on  the  his- 
toric pages  as  conspicuous  examples  of  faithfulness  unto 
death  for  generations  to  come,  inspiring  their  descend- 
ants with  love  for  homeland.  The  early  history  of 
Canada  is  especially  bright  in  this  respect.  But  among 
her  many  fearless  builders  and  defenders  no  figures 
stand  forth  in  bolder  relief  than  Daulac's  little  Spartan 
band  that  dared  and  did  so  much  for  New  France  in 
the  stirring  and  perilous  period  of  Iroquois  invasion. 

Adam  Daulac,  or  Dollard  in  its  Englished  form,  was 
only  twenty-five  years  old.  but,  belonging  to  an  old  fam- 
ily of  soldiers,  he  had  seen  considerable  military  service 
as  a  regular  in  the  army  of  France.  Unfortunately  his 
record  was  blackened  by  the  charge  of  cowardice,  and 
his  sensitive  nature  writhed  under  the  accusation,  which 
was  really  groundless.     Smarting  under  this  humiliation 

he  had  come  to  New  France  with  the  avowed  purpose 

123 


124  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

of  washing  out  by  some  deed  of  prowess  the  stain  on 
his  otherwise  proud  name.  In  a  new  country  he  fondly 
beheved  he  would  find  greater  field  for  his  desire.  Now 
he  believed  his  opportunity  had  come. 

Thus  he  watched  the  uprising  of  the  Iroquois  with 
feelings  far  different  from  those  who  listened  to  the 
reports  with  trembling.  Instead  of  waiting  in  fear  and 
suspense  for  the  savage  enemies  to  gather  their  wild 
forces  and  hurl  them  en  masse  upon  their  homes,  poorly 
fitted  to  withstand  a  siege,  he  favoured  carrying  war 
into  the  others'  midst.  Such  a  course,  he  argued,  would 
do  more  to  disconcert  the  Iroquois  than  a  hundred 
fights  made  on  the  defensive,  however  bravely  the  stand 
might  be  taken.  Unless  something  of  this  kind  were 
done  they  would  grow  bolder  as  the  season  advanced, 
and  as  the  men  of  necessity  became  more  busy  about 
their  growing  crops  the  Indians  would  be  given  greater 
opportunity  for  action. 

So,  obtaining  permission  from  the  governor  to  raise 
a  party  of  kindred  spirits  to  take  the  war  trail,  Daulac 
soon  enlisted  sixteen  as  brave  and  dashing  spirits  as 
himself.  For  reasons  of  his  own  he  accepted  only  those 
who  had  no  families  depending  upon  them  for  a  living, 
and  no  man  older  than  himself.  As  far  as  possible  he 
selected  those,  who,  through  some  disappointment,  had 
grown  reckless  and  placed  a  low  value  on  life.  He 
then  advised  them  all  to  make  their  wills,  if  they  had 
any  property  which  they  wished  to  dispose  of,  in  case 
they  failed  to  return. 


Spartans  of  Canada  125 

The  older  men  of  the  vicinity  asked  that  the  expedi- 
tion be  delayed  until  they  could  plant  their  seed,  when 
they  would  gladly  accompany  the  others,  and  thus 
bring  the  company  up  to  a  respectable  number.  Daulac 
met  this  with  the  argument  that  a  small  body  of  men 
could  move  faster  and  easier  than  a  large  number,  and 
thus  be  better  able  to  surprise  the  Indians,  which  would 
be  the  only  hope  of  a  success. 

After  having  seen  that  his  little  band  had  taken  an 
ample  supply  of  arms  and  ammunition,  among  the  former 
several  heavy  musketoons,  or  small  cannon,  together 
with  as  much  crushed  corn  as  was  deemed  best,  Daulac 
was  ready  to  set  forth  upon  his  perilous  mission.  The 
Sacrament  was  received  and  their  confessions  made  in 
the  little  chapel,  while  their  many  friends,  who  felt  they 
never  should  see  them  again,  bade  them  a  tender, 
tearful  good-bye. 

A  fair  April  morning  was  breaking  over  the  north- 
land  as  the  brave  seventeen  resolutely  set  the  prows 
of  their  stout  canoes  up  the  stream,  and  entered  upon 
the  first  stage  of  their  arduous  and  dangerous  journey. 
The  river  swollen  by  the  floods  of  spring  and  still  carry- 
ing floating  cakes  of  ice,  they  were  six  days  in  stemming 
the  rapids  of  Sainte  Anne,  and  only  the  most  deter- 
mined battle  with  the  elements  enabled  them  to  enter  the 
furious  Ottawa.  But  strengthened  rather  than  daunted 
by  this  difficult  beginning  they  pushed  ahead,  crossed 
the  Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains,  and  paused  for  their 
first  respite  at  the  foot  of  the  angry  current  of  Carillon. 


126  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Daulac  cheered  his  companions  with  stories  of 
Champlain  on  his  first  voyage  up  the  Ottawa,  and  soon 
they  gazed  upon  the  stormy  rapids  where  the  great 
explorer  had  nearly  lost  his  life.  Looking  upon  the 
rock-strewn  waterway  where  the  mad  current  leaped 
and  roared  and  flung  twenty  feet  into  the  air  its  white 
and  yellow  mane,  they  wisely  concluded  it  would  be 
impossible  for  them  to  ascend  the  cataracts  of  Long 
Sault  at  this  time.  Even  if  that  were  possible,  the 
news  which  had  reached  them  that  a  large  war-party 
of  the  Iroquois  were  encamped  just  above  warned  them 
that  it  would  be  running  into  a  trap.  Their  leader, 
whose  judgment  was  seldom  questioned,  argued  that  it 
would  be  better  to  lie  in  ambush  near  by  and  attack  the 
enemy  when  they  should  come  down  the  turbid  stream. 

It  happened  that  an  Algonquin  war-party  the  pre- 
vious year  had  made  a  small  clearing  and  hastily  con- 
structed a  fort  surrounded  by  palisades.  Though  this 
simple  fortification  had  fallen  into  a  dilapidated  condi- 
tion during  the  winter,  it  was  quickly  decided  to  make 
it  their  rendezvous,  and  repair  it  as  soon  as  they  had 
somewhat  recovered  from  the  exhaustion  of  their  efforts 
in  battling  with  the  current.  So  their  supplies  of  pro- 
visions and  ammunition  were  taken  inside  the  fort,  their 
canoes  dragged  up  out  of  the  reach  of  the  water,  a 
hearty  meal  eaten,  when  they  wrapped  themselves  in 
their  blankets  and  lay  down  to  the  rest  and  sleep  so 
greatly  required,  putting  off  until  another  day  the 
improvement  they  intended  to  give  the  fort. 


<    ^ 


I 


Spartans  of  Canada  127 

The  night  proved  uneventful,  and  the  following 
morning  Daulac  and  his  men  were  both  surprised  and 
pleased  at  the  appearance  of  a  party  of  Indians,  consist- 
ing of  Hurons  and  Algonquins,  who  hated  the  Iroquois 
and  consequently  professed  friendship  for  the  French. 
These  dusky  allies  numbered  forty-four,  of  whom  only 
four  belonged  to  the  Algonquin  tribe.  Daulac  himself 
had  little  confidence  that  the  Indians  would  stand  by 
them  in  case  the  fight  should  become  close,  as  the  Hu- 
rons were  not  noted  for  such  qualities,  having  of  late 
several  times  deserted  the  French  at  a  critical  moment. 
However,  he  had  no  reason  to  doubt  the  courage  and 
loyalty  of  their  leader,  so  he  was  fain  to  accept  their 
proffered  aid,  and  the  repairs  upon  the  fort  were  be- 
gun with  promptness  and  strong  belief  in  their  suc- 
cess against  the  enemies,  who  the  Huron  chief  assured 
them  were  even  then  close  at  hand. 

They  were  in  the  midst  of  this  work  when  one  of 
the'  scouts  reported  that  two  canoe-loads  of  Iroquois 
warriors  were  shooting  the  rapids  at  that  moment. 
Axes  were  immediately  exchanged  for  firearms,  and 
the  allies  waited  impatiently  for  the  appearance  of  their 
enemies.  The  suspense  was  of  short  duration,  and 
having  passed  the  falls  in  safety  the  Iroquois  were  in 
the  act  of  landing  just  below,  as  Daulac  gave  the  word 
to  fire.  But  in  the  excitement  so  many  shots  were 
wasted  that  a  portion  of  the  Iroquois  escaped  up  the 
bank  of  the  river.  These  carried  the  news  of  the  at- 
tack to  their  companions  encamped  above  the  rapids, 


128  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

and  preparations  were  hastily  begun  to  make  a  raid 
upon  the  French  and  their  alHes. 

Meanwhile  Daulac  and  his  companions,  speaking 
lightly  of  what  they  had  done,  cooked  their  morning 
meal,  and  were  eating  it  when  they  were  apprised 
of  the  approach  of  a  hundred  canoes  of  Iroquois ! 
Quickly  as  they  ended  their  breakfast,  before  they  could 
carry  their  cooking  utensils  into  the  fort  the  foremost 
of  the  invading  Indians  shot  into  sight,  borne  down- 
ward by  the  wild  river  with  a  rapidity  that  appeared 
startlincr  to  the  beholders. 

If  the  watchers  from  the  fort  at  first  thought  it  pos- 
sible they  would  pass  them  without  molestation,  they 
were  speedily  shown  the  contrary,  for  upon  reaching 
the  calm  water  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids  the  occupants 
of  the  canoes  swarmed  out  upon  the  shore  until  Daulac 
felt  positive  there  were  not  less  than  two  hundred  of 
them.  He  was  confident  it  was  the  same  war-party 
that  was  on  the  way  to  attack  the  settlements,  and  he 
addressed  a  few  stirring  words  to  his  companions,  de- 
claring that  the  fate  of  the  homes  in  New  France  was 
in  their  hands. 

The  attack  of  the  Iroquois  was  so  stubbornly  met 
that  the  latter  fell  back  with  considerable  loss.  No- 
thing daunted  by  this  they  prepared  for  a  second  at- 
tack, changing  their  tactics  somewhat  this  time.  First 
breaking  up  the  canoes  of  the  besieged  allies,  they 
ignited  the  pieces  of  bark,  and  carrying  these  blazing 
torches  over  their  heads  hoped  to  get  near  enough  to 


Spartans  of  Canada  129 

set  on  fire  the  palisades.  But  they  were  met  by  such  a 
hot  fire  from  the  weapons  of  the  brave  men  within  the 
fort  that  the  survivors  were  forced  to  retreat  in  wild 
disorder. 

At  this  juncture,  a  Seneca  chief,  who  had  won  great 
glory  in  a  former  campaign  for  his  bravery  and  cun- 
ning, assumed  command.  It  seemed  certain  that  in  a 
short  time,  inspired  by  his  heroic  daring,  they  would 
enter  the  fort  in  spite  of  the  furious  firing  of  the  occu- 
pants. This  chief  had  indeed  almost  reached  the  pali- 
sades, when  Daulac  sent  a  bullet  through  his  brain. 
Upon  seeing  him  fall  the  others  again  retreated  into 
the  forest,  where  they  held  a  short  consultation. 

It  proved  that  this  party  had  been  on  its  way  to  join 
another  and  larger  body,  and  together  they  were  plan- 
ning to  sweep  every  French  colonist  off  the  banks  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  from  Montreal  to  Quebec.  The 
council  quickly  concluded  that  it  would  be  wisest  to 
send  for  this  large  party  to  come  to  their  assistance  as 
soon  as  possible.  In  the  meantime  it  was  decided  to 
erect  a  fort  for  themselves  close  by,  keeping  up  the 
appearance  of  a  siege  by  an  occasional   attack. 

While  this  was  taking  place  three  of  the  young  fol- 
lowers of  Daulac  determined  to  bring  in  the  head  of  the 
Seneca  chief,  as  an  act  of  defiance  to  their  foes.  Dau- 
lac not  objecting,  they  set  forth  upon  their  daring  mis- 
sion, their  companions  standing  at  the  loopholes  ready 
to  shoot  down  the  first  Iroquois  that  ventured  within 

reach   of  their  bullets.     The   deed   was   accomplished 
9 


ISO  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

without  loss  of  Hfe  on  their  part,  and  a  few  minutes  later 
the  head  of  the  chief  was  placed  upon  the  top  of  a  pole 
close  by  the  palisades.  This  aroused  the  Iroquois  to  an- 
other attack,  which  proved  as  fruitless  to  them  as  ever. 

Between  the  intervals  of  the  attacks  of  the  Iroquois, 
while  they  were  building  their  fort,  the  French  and 
their  allies  improved  the  opportunity  to  repair  and 
strengthen  their  fortifications.  Small  trees  were  cut  to 
form  a  second  line  of  palisades,  the  space  between  the 
rows  filled  in  with  earth  to  the  heis^ht  of  a  man.  Five 
loopholes  were  left  on  each  side  of  the  defence,  each 
sufficient  to  accommodate  three  men,  so  at  least  sixty 
men  could  be  employed  at  one  time. 

By  this  time  the  besieged  party  had  been  called 
upon  to  meet  enemies  more  to  be  dreaded  than  even 
the  fiery  Iroquois.  These  were  hunger,  thirst,  cold,  and 
the  loss  of  sleep.  There  was  no  water  to  be  had  with- 
in the  inclosure  of  the  palisades,  and  the  only  kind  of 
food  they  had  was  the  dry  hominy.  Once  half  a  dozen 
ventured  forth,  and  succeeded  in  getting  a  small  quan- 
tity of  water,  but  this  could  not  be  repeated.  Then 
they  began  to  dig  for  it,  succeeding  in  getting  a  limited 
supply  of  muddy  water,  but  in  spite  of  all  they  could  do 
their  sufferino-s  soon  became  intense.  This  fact,  with 
the  certainty  that  sooner  or  later  all  must  fall  into  the 
hands  of  the  Iroquois,  caused  the  Hurons  to  desert,  one 
after  another,  until  only  their  chief,  the  brave  Etienne 
Annahotaha,  with  the  four  Algonquins,  remained  with 
the  little  band  of  French. 


Spartans  of  Canada  131 

Then  came  the  fateful  day,  nearly  a  week  after  the 
Iroquois  had  settled  down  to  what  seemed  the  slow  pro- 
cess of  starving  out  the  besieged  men,  when  the  war- 
whoops  of  five  hundred  warriors,  hastening  to  the  aid 
of  their  brothers-in-arms,  came  wildly  up  through  the 
forest,  drowning  the  steady  roar  of  Long  Sault.  The 
cheers  of  the  besiegers  answered  in  exultant  tones,  while 
the  beleaguered  ones  felt  that  their  last  hope  was  gone. 

Soon  the  siege  was  resumed  in  deadly  earnest,  and 
for  three  days  and  three  nights  the  Iroquois  kept  up  an 
irregular  assault,  trying  in  vain  to  get  inside  the  walls 
of  earth  defended  by  the  twenty  brave  spirits  resolved 
to  fight  and  die  if  need  be,  but  to  surrender,  never ! 
The  more  fearful  of  the  besiegers  would  now  fain  give 
up  the  siege,  declaring  the  French  were  protected  by 
the  Great  Spirit.  Others  looked  fiercely  upon  the  Hu- 
ron deserters,  as  if  they  would  wreak  their  vengeance 
upon  them.  These,  knowing  their  own  lives  lay  in 
overcoming  the  French,  boldly  taunted  them  of  lacking 
courage.  Thereupon  a  daring  chief  proposed  a  scheme 
by  which  it  could  be  found  just  who  had  the  courage  to 
continue  the  attack.  This  was  to  be  done  by  tying  to- 
gether as  many  bundles  of  small  sticks  as  there  were 
warriors,  and  let  each  one  choose  if  he  would  pick  up 
one  of  these  or  not.  Put  thus  to  the  test,  fearing  to  be 
branded  cowards  if  they  did  not,  nearly  all  of  the  Iro- 
quois and  all  of  the  Hurons  caught  up  his  bundle  of 
sticks  with  guttural  exclamations  of  defiance.  All  talk 
of  desisting  from  the  attack  ended  here. 


132  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Resolved  now  to  destroy  the  party  within  the  fort 
at  any  cost,  a  council  was  held  to  decide  how  it  was  best 
to  cope  with  so  desperate  an  enemy.  Thereupon  one 
of  the  Iroquois  suggested  that  they  make  large  wooden 
shields  out  of  small  trees  fastened  together,  behind  which 
it  might  be  possible  to  reach  the  fort  and  overwhelm  its 
defenders.  This  plan  was  accepted  without  debate,  and 
preparations  began  at  once  to  carry  it  forward.  All 
joining  willingly  in  the  work,  it  required  only  a  short 
time  to  fell  the  small  trees  and  cut  their  trunks  into 
suitable  lengths.  These  pieces  were  then  lashed  to- 
gether with  withes,  and  the  rude  defences  were  ready 
for  use. 

Volunteers,  eager  to  distinguish  themselves  in  the 
fray,  were  not  lacking  to  lead  the  charge,  while  behind 
those  who  carried  the  shields  followed  the  main  body 
of  the  Iroquois.  In  this  way,  without  firing  a  shot,  the 
dusky  legion  approached  the  palisades,  waiting  eagerly 
for  the  opportunity  to  begin  their  work  of  annihilation. 

In  the  meantime  a  more  anxious  council  had  been 
held  by  the  little  group  of  heroic  defenders  of  the  fort. 
Daulac  called  each  man  by  name,  offering  him  the 
opportunity  to  surrender  if  he  chose ;  but  not  one, 
even  to  the  four  Algonquins  and  the  Huron  chief,  hesi- 
tated in  his  decision  to  remain.  In  fact,  they  knew  only 
too  well  the  dread  alternative,  and  a  speedy  death  was 
preferable  to  the  slower  torture  that  awaited  them  if 
they  fell  Into  the  hands  of  the  enemy  alive. 

Watching  the  movements  of  the  Iroquois  from  the 


Spartans  of  Canada  133 

loopholes  they  anticipated  their  intentions  and  under- 
stood the  form  their  next  attack  would  take.  Their 
only  hope  now  lay  in  the  musketoons,  which  they  had 
not  used  before  on  account  of  the  greater  amount  of 
powder  they  required.  Now  they  only  wished  they  had 
four  instead  of  two,  so  as  to  be  able  to  protect  every 
side  at  once.  However,  these  were  planted  to  do  the 
most  effective  work,  and  the  approach  of  the  Indians 
anxiously  awaited. 

Realising  that  the  end  was  near,  each  brave  defender 
of  New  France  stood  at  his  post  impatiently  waiting  for 
the  opening  of  the  battle  that  was  to  become  the  clos- 
ing act  in  the  tragedy  of  border  warfare.  Daulac  spoke 
a  few  words  of  encouragement,  and  then  turned  to  see 
that  the  musketoon  on  that  quarter  was  discharged  at 
the  proper  moment  to  do  the  most  mischief. 

It  proved,  indeed,  a  sort  of  mischief  that  for  a  brief 
time  threatened  to  demoralise  the  Iroquois.  As  the 
double  reports  rang  out  simultaneously,  many  of  the 
shield-bearers  fell,  and  for  a  time  the  wooden  walls 
proved  but  poor  protection  to  those  exposed  by  their 
fall.  Daulac  lost  no  time  in  having  the  g-uns  reloaded, 
and  had  there  been  two  more  it  would  have  been  very 
uncertain  if  the  Iroquois,  notwithstanding  their  over- 
whelming numbers,  would  have  succeeded  in  their 
purpose. 

As  it  was,  two  sides  were  left  unprotected  by  these 
large  firearms,  and  the  advance  of  the  enemies  was 
unchecked.     The  brave  Huron,  Etienne,  was  on  one  of 


134  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

these  more  exposed  positions,  and  the  moment  the 
Iroquois  had  got  near  enough  to  throw  down  their 
shields  and  begin  to  hack  at  the  paHsades  with  their 
hatchets,  he  sprang  into  the  fray  hand-to-hand.  He 
was  closely  followed  by  others.  No  quarter  was  asked 
or  expected.  The  faithful  Huron  soon  went  down  with 
more  than  a  dozen  wounds,  and  his  body  was  quickly 
covered  by  two  of  the  Algonquins,  while  the  French 
died  like  the  heroes  they  had  proved  themselves  to  be. 

Finding  that  their  enemies  were  breaking  through 
the  wooden  wall  at  his  rear,  Daulac,  having  literally 
filled  to  the  muzzle  one  of  the  musketoons  with  powder 
and  shot,  lighted  the  fuse,  and  tried  to  throw  it  over 
the  palisades  into  the  midst  of  the  assailants.  But  it 
was  not  lifted  high  enough  to  clear  the  top,  and  falling 
back  into  the  inclosure  it  burst  as  it  struck  the  ground. 
Several  of  the  defenders  were  killed  or  injured  by  this 
explosion,  but  the  others,  resorting  now  to  knives  and 
axes,  continued  to  hew  down  the  Iroquois  as  fast  as 
they  showed  themselves  at  the  rents  they  had  made  in 
the  walls.  It  had  been  their  orders  not  to  kill  any  one 
if  possible,  but  to  save  all  for  the  torture.  But,  seeing 
so  many  of  their  numbers  slain  by  these  indomitable 
men,  and  fearing  they  would  escape  after  all,  the  com- 
mand was  given  to  fire  upon  them. 

Daulac  was  killed  by  this  volley,  though  not  till  he 
had  encircled  himself  with  victims.  Of  his  brave  com- 
panions only  three  survived  this  deadly  discharge  of 
bullets,   and   these  were  more   dead    than    alive    when 


Spartans  of  Canada  135 

seized  by  the  fiendish  captors,  maddened  by  the  fact 
that  they  obtained  no  more  captives.  In  this  disappoint- 
ment they  turned  upon  the  unfortunate  Hurons,  who 
had  deserted  the  French  to  fight  with  them,  and  more 
than  half  of  their  number  were  put  to  death  along  with 
the  three  survivors  of  the  garrison.  Of  the  balance  of 
the  Hurons,  five  escaped  soon  after  to  carry  to  Mon- 
treal the  tragic  story  of  the  fate  of  Daulac  and  his  heroic 
band.     The  fate  of  the  other  Hurons  is  unknown. 

The  Iroquois  had  suffered  so  severely  at  the  hands 
of  the  heroes  of  Long  Sault,  and  probably  thinking  that 
it  would  be  folly  to  carry  on  their  warfare  with  a  race 
of  whom  they  judged  Daulac  and  his  men  to  be  repre- 
sentatives, they  abandoned  all  further  attacks  for  that 
season.  Thus  the  heroic  sacrifice  of  these  brave  soldiers 
of  New  France  had  not  been  made  in  vain,  and  for  a 
long  time  their  praises  were  sung  by  the  thankful 
colonists. 


Chapter  XI 

The   Heroic  Period 

La  Salle  and  his  Associates — Talon,  the  First  Intendant — Frontenac — The 
Great  Council  with  the  Iroquois — Laval  Restored  to  the  Episcopate — Maids 
of  Quebec — First  Ship  upon  Lake  Erie — Fate  of  La  Salle — Frontenac 
Recalled — Treachery  of  Denonville — Massacre  at  La  Chine — Return  of 
Frontenac — His  "Winter  Raids" — Phips's  Expedition — Death  of  Frontenac. 

WITH  the  exit  of  Champlain  from  the  stage 
the  curtain  falls  upon  the  second  act  in  the 
drama  of  exploration  and  colonisation  in 
the  valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  When  it  lifts  again  it 
rises  over  what  has  not  inappropriately  been  styled 
"the  heroic  period."  The  mantle  of  the  explorer  falls 
upon  Marquette,  who  founded,  in  April,  1668,  the  first 
mission  in  Michigan,  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  and  who  reached 
the  Mississippi  in  the  summer  of  1673,  and  died  on  the 
bank  of  the  little  river  that  bears  his  name  in  1675; 
Joliet,  his  companion  ;  Hennepin,  who  explored  the  up- 
per portion  of  the  Mississippi  River;  and,  greater  than 
either,  La  Salle,  and  his  faithful  friend  of  the  "  silver 
hand,"  Tonty  ;  an  illustrious  group  who  blazed  the  path 
westward  for  the  coming  power  which  was  destined  to 
be  antagonistic  to  their  own.  Of  these  the  checkered 
fortunes  of  La  Salle  will  have  the  most  to  do  with  our 
work. 

136 


MONSEIGNEUR    LAVAL,    FIRST   CANADIAN   BISHOP. 


The  Heroic  Period  137 

In  1 66 1  a  change  came  over  the  poHtical  and  com- 
mercial situation  in  the  St.  Lawrence  valley.  Colbert, 
a  clear-headed,  fearless  financier  was  chosen  by  the  King 
to  be  comptroller  of  finance  and  minister  of  marine. 
That  veteran  of  two  wars,  Baron  Dubois  d'Avaugor, 
became  governor  of  New  France.  He  immediately  saw 
the  possibilities  of  the  country,  and  declared  that  the 
St.  Lawrence  was  the  portal  to  "  the  grandest  empire 
on  earth."  At  this  time  (1663)  its  population,  scattered 
among  isolated  posts,  numbered  2500,  one-third  of 
whom  lived  in  Quebec. 

The  Hundred  Associates  throwing  up  their  charter, 
a  special  council  was  created  by  the  King  to  control 
affairs  in  Canada,  with  Quebec  its  capital.  May  24, 
1664,  under  the  Inspiration  of  Colbert,  the  Company  of 
the  West  was  organised,  and  given  the  dominion  of 
commerce  for  the  entire  territory  of  New  France.  This 
brought  murmuring  from  the  people,  and  to  quiet  them 
the  company  allowed  the  trade  of  the  Upper  St.  Law- 
rence to  redound  to  their  profit,  but  retained  the  lower 
and  richer  section. 

Louis  XIV.,  surnamed  the  Great,  was  then  In  the 
midst  of  his  dazzling  career,  calling  about  him  some  of 
the  ablest  men  of  his  time,  and  making  his  power  in  his 
own  kingdom  so  absolute  as  to  be  able  to  say,  without 
fear  of  contradiction,  Ldtat  cest  mot  ["  I  am  the  state  "]. 
He  sent  to  New  France  some  of  the  ablest  men  she 
had.  Among  these  came  Daniel  de  Remy,  Sleur  de 
Courcelles,  who  became  governor,   and  Jean   Baptiste 


158  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Talon,  the  first  Intendant,  an  office  associated  in  power 
with  the  first.  These  men  were  thoroughly  imbued 
with  the  royal  spirit  of  Louis. 

In  order  to  help  put  down  the  Iroquois  raids  twelve 
hundred  veteran  soldiers  of  the  Turkish  campaign  and 
in  other  wars  were  sent  over.  What  was  of  equal  im- 
portance, two  thousand  immigrants  came  to  swell  the 
population.  With  the  strong,  righteous  arm  of  Talon  to 
fight  for  them,  coupled  with  the  energetic  military  skill 
of  Courcelles,  it  looked  as  if  the  drooping  lilies  of  France 
were  to  be  lifted  into  brighter  prospects  than  ever  up 
and  down  the  great  river.  It  was  then  the  English  ob- 
tained possession  of  New  Netherlands,  and  began  to 
move  up  the  valley  of  that  other  river,  the  Hudson,  in 
a  way  the  rival  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  Charles  II.  was 
entering  upon  his  stormy  reign  in  England,  and  New 
England,  as  well  as  her  sister  colony  in  the  north,  was 
beginning  to  feel  the  iron  heel  of  kingly  despotism  ;  only 
in  her  case  the  master  was  not  as  worthy  of  his  subjects. 

Talon  urged  the  necessity  of  establishing  posts  far- 
ther south,  and  Courcelles  invaded  the  Mohawk  coun- 
try, lost  his  way,  found  village  after  village  deserted, 
and  was  glad  to  get  out  of  the  wilderness.  He  was 
followed  by  an  expedition  under  the  lieutenant-general 
Marquis  de  Tracy,  who  led  the  largest  force,  thirteen 
hundred  men,  ever  seen  until  then  in  the  Mohawk 
country,  and  with  competent  guides,  which  his  pre- 
decessor had  lacked,  he  devastated  town  after  town 
of  the  Mohawks.     The  succeeding  spring  the  humbled 


5    s 


o    -S, 


4 


The  Heroic  Period  139 

red  men  for  the  first  time  sued  for  peace.  Then  fol- 
lowed twenty  years  in  the  St.  Lawrence  valley  of  free- 
dom from  the  war-whoop.  The  population  increased 
rapidly,  and  in  1670  there  were  6000  inhabitants. 

The  colonists  pushed  out  into  the  wilderness  with 
good  courage.  Canada  began  to  look  like  a  land  of 
homes.  But,  at  the  same  time,  the  coureurs  de  bois  re- 
ceived a  wider  license  of  freedom  than  ever,  the  most 
serious  menace  civilisation  knew.  Now,  too,  the  explo- 
rers cross  the  border  line  :  Marquette,  Joliet,  Hennepin, 
Duluth,  rise  like  the  sun,  and  like  the  sun  disappear  in 
the  unknown  West. 

The  astute  Talon  reserved  his  favours  for  another 
adventurer,  who  in  many  respects  was  to  outstrip  his 
rivals.  His  name  was  Rene  Robert  Cavelier,  Sieur  de 
la  Salle,  who  was  born  in  1644  and  appeared  in  Montreal 
in  his  23rd  year.  His  enthusiastic  spirit  prompted  him 
to  begin  work  at  once.  The  first  result  was  a  palisaded 
town  above  the  rapids,  built  as  a  station  for  the  fur- 
trade.  But  his  restless  energy  would  not  allow  him  a 
long  period  of  clearing  the  wilderness  here,  and  upon 
the  6th  of  July,  1669,  we  find  him  sailing  up  the  St. 
Lawrence  in  quest  of  China.  Somewhat  derisively  the 
name  of  La  Chine  was  eiven  to  the  estate  he  left  when 
starting  upon  this  chimerical  expedition. 

Breaking  down  under  the  strain  upon  him,  Cour- 
celles  asked  to  be  relieved  of  his  position,  and  his  suc- 
cessor appeared  upon  the  scene  in  1672.  Strong  as 
had  been  the  men  who  had  gone  before  him,  the  new 


I40  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

governor-general  was  one  to  rise  head  and  shoulders 
above  them.  His  was  a  character  not  pleasant  to  ana- 
lyse ;  not  always  friendly  to  his  King,  to  his  fellow-man, 
to  himself.  But  in  spite  of  the  vices  of  his  age  and  asso- 
ciates, in  defiance  of  his  imperious  temper,  his  will  that 
brooked  no  opposition,  his  reputation  not  the  best  for 
honesty,  his  home  life  not  free  from  scandal,  his  intem- 
perate habits,  his  indifference  to  religious  teachings 
according  to  the  tenets  of  the  Jesuits  and  Sulpicians, 
his  was  a  rugged,  progressive,  untrammelled  nature. 
One  word  expresses  the  name  by  which  he  is  best 
known,  Frontenac,  but  he  was  really  Louis  de  Baude, 
Comte  de  Palluau  et  de  Frontenac.  He  has  been 
styled  the  "  Saviour  of  New  France."  If  this  honour 
belongs  to  him  it  was  because  the  country  needed  such 
an  iron  will  and  resolute  arm  to  stem  the  turgid  current 
of  its  political  and  commercial  St.  Lawrence. 

Among  the  first  things  that  the  new  governor  did 
was  to  strike  at  the  feudal  rights  so  dear  to  the  King  of 
France,  and  which  Talon  and  his  associates  had  been 
careful  to  foster,  not  caring  to  try  the  temper  of  Louis. 
Frontenac  called  about  him  the  leading  spirits  of  the 
colony,  and  planned  to  establish  a  structure  of  the 
States  somewhat  similar  to  the  Estates  General  once 
popular  in  France,  but  thrust  aside  by  the  reigning 
monarch.  For  this  he  was  rebuked  by  the  King,  who 
had  no  intention  of  allowing  any  semblance  of  power 
to  spring  up  that  should  in  the  least  interfere  with  his 
absolutism,  and  New  France  lost  her  only  opportunity 


The  Heroic  Period  141 

for  freedom.  This,  coming  from  one  who  seemed  little 
short  of  a  dictator  himself,  was  something  of  a  surprise. 

Again  Frontenac  looked  about  him,  and  saw  wrongs 
that  needed  righting  in  the  system  of  trade,  and 
straightway  he  had  the  bushrangers  arrayed  against 
him.  Nor  did  it  stop  here.  Perrot,  the  governor,  fa- 
voured the  class,  as  they  had  favoured  him.  Immedi- 
ately this  aggrieved  official  started  for  France,  to  lay  his 
troubles  before  the  King.  La  Salle  also  went,  with  a 
recommendation  from  Frontenac  for  kingly  assistance 
in  opening  up  the  west.  The  Sulpicians  were  now  up 
in  arms  against  the  governor-general,  who  bent  his  will 
to  no  man.  The  Jesuits,  while  not  openly  denounc- 
ing him,  placed  every  obstacle  possible  in  his  path. 

While  encouraging  exploration,  and  La  Salle  above 
all  other  explorers,  Frontenac  had  deemed  it  advisable 
to  establish  a  post  upon  the  shore  of  Lake  Ontario, 
farther  up  on  the  St.  Lawrence  than  had  yet  been  done. 
In  order  to  carry  out  this  purpose  to  his  satisfaction  he 
planned  an  expedition  to  be  headed  by  himself,  and  also 
sent  La  Salle  ahead  to  invite  the  Iroquois  to  be  present 
at  a  council.  Leaving  Quebec  June  3,  1673,  he  sailed 
up  the  St.  Lawrence,  stopping  at  Montreal,  where  his 
forces  were  considerably  increased.  He  left  this  place 
on  the  28th,  with  400  men,  120  canoes,  and  two  flat- 
boats.  This  imposing  flotilla,  with  its  brightly  painted 
bateaux  and  long  train  of  birch  barques,  all  moving  to 
strains  of  martial  music,  and  decked  with  the  striking 
and  mysterious  devices  of  a  people  coming  as  strangers 


142  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

into  a  strange  land,  must  have  created  a  thrilling  awe 
in  the  breasts  of  the  dusky  lookouts  of  those  island 
retreats.  In  the  foremost  boat  the  stately  figure  of 
Frontenac  was  the  most  conspicuous  object,  his  gold- 
laced  uniform  looking  exceedingly  bright,  considering 
the  long  and  toilsome  journey  he  had  made  against  the 
current  of  the  mighty  river,  and  in  face  of  the  perils  of 
the  wilderness. 

Moving  upon  the  scene  with  holiday  pomp  and 
gaiety,  the  new-comers  disembarked  at  Cataraqui,  near 
where  now  stands  the  city  of  Kingston,  on  the  12th  of 
July.  The  engineer,  Raudin,  was  set  to  work  laying 
out  a  fort,  and  La  Salle  was  placed  in  command.  The 
Loquois  were  promptly  on  hand,  and  the  most  import- 
ant council  which  had  ever  been  held  with  these  war- 
riors followed,  these  astute  sons  of  the  war  trail  finding 
the  new  commander  of  a  different  stamp  to  treat  with 
than  they  had  met  before.  He  both  flattered  and  threat- 
ened them,  and  they  went  away  deeply  impressed  with 
his  presence. 

The  result  of  La  Salle's  visit  to  France  was,  in  part,  a 
grant  to  him  of  the  fort  at  Cataraqui,  with  the  adjoining 
territory.  Upon  the  same  vessel  that  brought  him  back 
were  Hennepin,  the  Recollet  friar,  who  was  to  become 
noted  for  his  western  explorations ;  Laval,  restored  to 
the  episcopate  of  Quebec,  and  Duchesnau,  the  successor 
of  Talon,  who  had  been  unable  to  jjet  alontj  with  Fronte- 
nac.  The  times  must  have  been  prolific  of  independent 
spirits,  for  it  is  seldom  four  were  ever  brought  together 


The  Heroic  Period  143 

who  were  so  strong-minded  each  in  his  own  pecuHar 
field  of  work. 

Upon  this  ship  came  also  another  element  quite  as 
disturbing  to  the  decorum  of  the  company  as  either,  on 
account  of  their  merry  ways  rather  than  from  any  ma- 
licious disposition.  This  was  a  bevy  of  pretty  maids 
sent  over  by  the  King  to  become  the  wives  of  needy 
settlers.  From  the  beginning  in  New  France  there  had 
been  a  scarcity  of  women,  and  Talon,  in  his  endeavour 
to  increase  the  number  of  settlers,  called  especially  for 
young  ladies  to  save  the  country  from  a  matrimonial 
famine.  In  1665  one  hundred  girls  arrived  in  Quebec, 
and  were  quickly  supplied  with  husbands.  The  follow- 
ing year  twice  as  many  came,  and  still  the  demand  was 
not  met.  Another  company  of  over  a  hundred  came  in 
1667,  and  from  year  to  year  this  practice  was  kept  up. 
Many  of  these  girls  were  selected  from  good  families 
at  home  and  were  intended  to  supply  the  seigneurs,  and 
thus  from  the  beginning  were  built  up  two  classes  in 
Canada,  the  noblesse  and  the  habitants  ;  the  first  holding 
the  lands  of  the  King,  and  the  others  cultivating  it  upon 
leases.  Upon  being  separated  into  the  class  where  the 
candidates  for  matrimonial  honours  belonged,  those  who 
desired  a  wife  stated  their  wishes  to  a  person  in  charge, 
usually  a  woman,  gave  proof  as  to  his  possessions  and 
ability  to  support  a  home,  when  he  was  at  liberty  to 
select  one  most  to  his  fancy  from  the  class  in  which  he 
had  a  right  to  look.  The  maids,  on  their  part,  were 
given  the  privilege  to  reject  any  man  that  might  not 


144  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

appear  congenial,  when  he  would  be  obliged  to  try 
again.  The  choice  being  mutual,  the  couple  sought  a 
priest  and  notary,  and  were  speedily  united  for  better 
or  worse,  and  there  is  no  record  to  show  that  these  im- 
promptu marriages  did  not  prove  as  satisfactory  as 
weddings  made  with  greater  leisure. 

In  1676,  encouraged  by  Frontenac  and  the  peace  of 
the  country,  at  the  time  when  the  New  England  colo- 
nists were  in  the  midst  of  King  Philip's  War,  La  Salle 
rebuilt  in  masonry  the  walls  to  Fort  Frontenac,  as  Cata- 
raqui  had  been  renamed,  strengthened  the  palisades, 
laid  the  keel  of  a  ship,  and  brought  cattle  from  Mon- 
treal. The  settlement  grew  under  his  fostering  care,  and 
another  year  he  had  three  vessels  plying  upon  the  lake, 
whose  profit  to  him  amounted  to  25,000  livres  a  year. 

Still  he  saw  through  his  ambition  a  vision  of  the 
Mississippi  for  ever  rolling  into  the  mysterious  west. 
So  he  went  to  France  in  1678  to  obtain  permission  to 
extend  commerce  in  that  direction.  He  secured  from 
the  King,  who  never  seemed  to  refuse  help  to  the  strug- 
gling colony,  a  patent  which  empowered  him  to  go  on 
with  his  work.  What  was  of  almost  equal  importance 
to  him,  he  secured  the  friendship  and  companionship  of 
a  remarkable  man,  who  was  never  to  falter  in  his  behalf 
through  the  trying  scenes  to  follow.  This  was  Henry 
Tonty,  the  son  of  Lorenzo  Tonti,  the  Italian  refugee, 
whose  name  is  connected  with  the  Tontine  system  of  in- 
surance. La  Salle  and  Tonty  came  with  a  good  force 
of  mechanics  and  shipbuilders  to  help  along  their  plans. 


2   <^ 


The  Heroic  Period  145 

We  next  see  them  upon  Lake  Erie,  building  the 
first  vessel  ever  sailed  upon  this  inland  sea,  which  he 
named  the  Griffin  for  the  fabulous  monster,  half 
bird,  half  beast,  dwelling  in  the  Rhipsean  Mountains 
and  guarding  the  treasures  of  the  Hyperborean  regions. 
Completed  in  May,  this  little  vessel,  with  an  armanent 
of  five  guns,  proudly  left  her  rude  dock  in  August,  her 
crew  singing  Te  Deum,  as  she  unfurled  her  canvas  to 
the  virgin  breeze.  With  the  prospect  gradually  unfold- 
ing to  him  like  a  vision  seen  in  a  dream,  as  he  sailed 
away  in  the  eye  of  the  westering  sun,  that  was  probably 
the  happiest  moment  of  La  Salle's  checkered  life.  Out 
of  Erie  into  Huron,  by  the  river  between,  flew  the  trium- 
phant Griffin,  looking  indeed  like  a  veritable  bird  to  the 
wondering  eyes  that  saw  her  from  the  distance.  A  stop 
was  made  at  the  mission  of  Ignace  at  Michilimackinac, 
where  the  hero  in  his  gold-laced  uniform  and  air  of 
a  conqueror  attended  divine  worship,  to  kneel  with  be- 
coming grace  among  the  humble  and  dusky  followers 
of  the  cross. 

La  Salle  learned  here  that  some  of  the  men  he  had 
sent  to  trade  with  the  Indians  had  deserted  him  and  be- 
come traders  on  their  own  account — coureurs  de  bois. 
Others  were  only  lukewarm  in  his  interest,  and  he  felt 
that  his  presence  was  none  too  welcome.  He  arrested 
a  few  of  the  unfaithful,  and  sent  scouts  to  look  after 
those  abroad.  Then  he  broke  faith  with  his  patrons  by 
securing  at  Green  Bay,  from  the  Ottawas,  a  cargo  of 
pelts,  though  his  commission  stated  that  he  should  not 


146  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

do  this.  His  excuse  to  himself,  if  his  conscience  called 
for  an  explanation,  must  have  been  that  he  had  got  to 
do  something  of  the  kind  to  satisfy  his  creditors,  for  he 
had  been  obliged  to  depend  largely  upon  borrowed  capi- 
tal in  order  to  carry  on  his  undertaking. 

On  September  i8th,  her  ill-gotten  cargo  stowed 
away,  the  Griffin  sailed  upon  her  return  trip  under  the 
charge  of  a  captain,  pilot,  and  three  men.  That  was 
the  last  La  Salle  ever  saw  or  heard  of  his  ship.  It  was 
rumoured  she  was  lost  in  a  storm,  and  all  on  board 
perished.  It  was  whispered  that  her  pilot  had  run  her 
aground  upon  the  nearest  point  of  land,  and  with  his 
associates  undertook  to  get  away  with  the  cargo,  only 
to  fall  into  the  hands  of  hostile  Indians  who  put  them 
to  death.  Which  was  correct  the  owner  never  knew, 
and  to  this  day  no  one  has  become  wiser  than  he. 

Upon  parting  with  his  ship  laden  with  its  goods, 
flattering  himself  that  his  creditors  would  be  pleased, 
La  Salle  then  entered  upon  a  career  whose  account 
reads  like  a  pathetic  romance.  He  passed  up  Lake 
Michigan  ;  he  built  a  fort  upon  the  St.  Joseph,  now  the 
Illinois,  River ;  with  his  dream  of  exploring  the  Missis- 
sippi still  uppermost  in  his  mind,  he  laid  the  keel  here 
for  another  vessel ;  not  overpleased  with  his  stern  ways, 
some  of  his  best  carpenters  deserted  him  ;  haunted  by 
the  dread  of  some  mishap  having  befallen  the  Griffin, 
he  left  his  station,  which  he  had  named  Fort  Cr^vecceur, 
in  remembrance  of  a  fort  by  that  name  in  Netherlands, 
under  the  command  of  Tonty,  and  started  for  Ontario 


The  Heroic  Period  147 

across   the  peninsula  of    Michigan,  where  he  and  his 

companions 

encountered  perils  enough  to  make  the  stoutest  heart  quail.  .  .  . 
They  waded  through  drowned  lands.  They  were  obliged  to  thaw 
their  stiffened  clothes  in  the  morning  before  they  could  move. 
Where  they  found  a  path  in  the  opening  they  burned  the  grass  to 
destroy  their  trail,  for  warring  savages  invested  the  country,  little 
discriminating  as  regarded  their  human  prey. 

La  Salle  reached  the  shipyard  where  the  Griffin 
had  been  built,  to  learn  to  a  certainty  that  the  vessel 
had  been  lost.  To  his  further  disappointment,  he  was 
told  that  a  vessel  he  had  expected  to  come  to  Niagara 
with  supplies  had  been  wrecked  on  the  St.  Lawrence. 
To  complicate  matters  still  more,  a  report  had  been 
circulated  by  his  enemies  that  he  was  dead,  and  under 
this  pretence  his  property  had  been  sold  under  the 
hammer,  and  his  agents  had  taken  the  profits.  Fortu- 
nately, he  had  the  robust  friendship  of  Frontenac  left 
him.  This  enabled  him  to  resume  his  tortuous  path 
of  exploration,  not  the  least  of  his  dangers  being  the 
jealousies  and  discouragements  of  rivals,  each  anxious 
to  get  the  credit  of  what  was  being  done.  This  chap- 
ter of  discovery  and  adventure,  in  which  the  names  of 
La  Salle,  Tonty,  Marquette,  Hennepin,  Duluth,  and 
others  are  associated,  is  filled  with  records  of  hardships 
and  sufferings,  the  rewards  to  the  individuals  small  for 
the  sacrifices  they  underwent.  Out  of  this  stormy  con- 
quest came  a  union  of  the  St.  Lawrence  with  the  Mis- 
sissippi, and  by  these  great  rivers  was  the  Gulf  of  St. 
Lawrence  linked  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 


148  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

La  Salle  perished  miserably  at  the  hands  of  a  rene- 
gade follower  in  the  midst  of  his  explorations,  a  victim, 
perhaps,  to  his  own  arrogance.  No  character  among 
the  early  voyagers  and  discoverers  has  been  more  vari- 
ously estimated  than  his.  He  was  certainly  not  with- 
out his  faults,  the  greatest  of  which  seemed  to  be  his 
inability  to  make  many  friends  and  never  to  placate  an 
enemy.  He  did  not  a  little  for  the  development  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  valley,  and  he  deserved  all  the  praise  his 
memory  will  ever  get. 

In  the  meantime,  a  storm  had  set  in  at  Quebec, 
which  threatened  the  ruin  of  the  colony.  Frontenac 
and  the  Intendant  were  at  sword's  point  over  matters 
trivial  and  serious.  Laval,  the  bishop,  and  the  Jesuits 
combined  against  the  former  ;  the  Recollet  friars  and 
the  merchant  stoutly  maintained  that  he  was  right.  So 
fast  and  furious  did  this  war  waofe  that  both  were  re- 
called.  Unfortunately,  this  was  done  in  the  midst  of  an 
uprising  on  the  part  of  the  Iroquois,  who  had  been  en- 
couraged to  open  hostilities  again  by  the  Governor  of 
New  York,  Colonel  Doncran.  The  blow  was  not  aimed 
directly  at  the  inhabitants  of  the  St,  Lawrence  valley, 
but  against  the  Indians  of  the  Illinois  River.  Fronte- 
nac had  warned  them  to  take  their  hands  off  of  this 
tribe  occupying  a  country  he,  through  La  Salle,  was 
trying  to  open  up.  They  replied  insolently  at  first,  but, 
not  daring  to  try  the  bluff  old  soldier  too  far,  finally 
came  to  Montreal  to  treat  with  him.  Now  La  Barre, 
an  old  man  sent  to  do  a  young  man's  work,  succeeded 


^?^  t^ 


CHEVALIER  DE  LA  SALLE. 


;^S/^^4:je.<^^"S^3t. 


The  Heroic  Period  149 

Frontenac.  He  made  a  sad  mess  of  the  warring  ele- 
ments. He  evaded,  he  fought,  he  implored,  he  betrayed 
his  allies  on  the  one  hand  and  feebly  pleaded  for  them 
on  the  other,  until,  had  not  the  Iroquois  been  too  far- 
seeing  to  carry  out  such  a  scheme,  there  is  little  doubt 
but  the  last  Frenchman  in  the  St.  Lawrence  country 
would  have  bade  a  long  farewell  to  its  scenes.  The 
saving  grace  for  La  Barre  was  the  fact  that  the  politic 
Iroquois  leaders  could  realise  that  with  the  removal  of 
the  French  from  the  field  of  action  they  would  have  a 
power  more  to  be  dreaded  in  the  English.  For  this 
reason  they  suffered  them  to  remain  and  harass  the 
others. 

Then  La  Barre  was  recalled  and  one  Denonville 
sent  in  his  place.  James  II.  was  on  the  throne  of 
England,  and  between  him  and  Louis  XIV.  existed 
amicable  relations.  The  two  fixed  up  terms  of  peace 
between  their  possessions  in  America,  without  either 
entering  into  the  full  depth  of  the  problem.  This  was 
nothing  less  than  the  settlement  of  the  mastery  of  the 
west.  Dongan's  first  move  was  to  capture  the  trade  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  for  the  Hudson.  To  obtain  this,  he 
sent  his  men  far  into  the  north,  where  never  an  English- 
man had  gone  before.  His  next  aim  was  exactly  what 
the  French  had  been  trying  to  do  by  the  English  ;  that 
is,  confine  them  to  the  smallest  extent  of  territory  pos- 
sible. Dongan  was  favoured  in  this  part  of  his  scheme 
from  the  fact  of  the  raids  on  Acadie  by  the  New  Eng- 
landers.     Denonville,  in  his  eagerness  to  carry  out  the 


I50  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

policy  of  his  predecessors,  Talon,  La  Salle.  Frontenac, 
ignored  the  treaty  of  peace  made  by  his  King,  and  sent 
troops  to  rout  the  posts  established  by  the  English  in 
the  Hudson  Bay  region.  Then  both  he  and  Dongan 
decided  it  was  for  their  interest  to  maintain  a  fort  at 
Niagara,  the  best  man  to  win  the  race.  The  site  con- 
sidered most  desirable  was  held  by  the  Senecas.  They 
were  not  an  easy  occupant  to  placate,  either  by  the 
wiles  of  peace  or  by  the  arts  of  war.  But  Denonville 
considered  himself  equal  to  the  task,  and  he  set  himself 
about  it  in  a  manner  which  has  blackened  his  name  with 
infamy. 

In  1687  he  gathered  his  armed  forces  and  moved  up 
the  St.  Lawrence  to  Fort  Frontenac,  where  he  invited 
some  of  the  Seneca  chiefs  to  a  council.  Innocent  of  the 
treachery  of  their  host  these  came,  were  seized  by  sur- 
prise and  sent  to  France,  where  they  were  punished  as 
slaves  in  the  King's  galleys.  He  then  pillaged  the  vil- 
lages of  some  neutral  Iroquois,  who  were  living  quietly 
and  peacefully  near  by.  These  shared  the  fate  of  poor 
slaves,  though  it  was  claimed  the  evil  of  the  deed  had 
been  mitigated  by  converting  the  captive  women  and 
children  to  Christianity.  Losing  no  time  lest  the  news 
might  spread,  Denonville  moved  swiftly  over  the  lake, 
and,  reinforced  by  friendly  Indians  from  Mlchlllmack- 
Inac,  he  hurled  his  allied  forces  upon  the  surprised  Sen- 
ecas. A  short  and  terrific  resistance  was  made,  but  the 
end  was  Inevitable.  The  towns  of  the  Indians  were  laid 
in  ruins,  their  stores  of  grain  were  confiscated,  and  their 


The  Heroic  Period  151 

herds  of  swine  seized.  The  survivors  of  that  terrible  day 
came  forth  from  their  concealment  in  the  forests,  when 
the  enemies  had  left,  broken  in  spirit  and  desolate. 

Denonville  had  now  a  clear  way  to  build  his  fort  at 
Niagara,  which  he  proceeded  to  do,  and  then  armed  it 
with  one  hundred  men.  If  triumphant  in  his  bold  plans, 
he  had  to  learn  that  the  viper  crushed  might  rise  to 
sting.  The  Senecas  had  their  avengers.  Maddened  by 
the  cowardly  onset  of  Denonville  and  his  followers,  the 
Iroquois  to  a  man  rose  against  the  French.  This  was 
not  done  by  any  organised  raid,  but,  shod  with  silence, 
small,  eager  war-parties  haunted  the  forests  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  striking  where  they  were  the  least  expected, 
and  never  failing  to  leave  behind  them  the  smoke  of 
burning  dwellings  and  the  horrors  of  desolated  lives. 
From  Fort  Frontenac  to  Tadousac  there  was  not  a 
home  exempt  from  this  deadly  scourge  ;  not  a  life  that 
was  not  threatened.  Unable  to  cope  with  so  artful  a 
foe,  Denonville  was  in  despair.  He  sued  for  peace,  but 
to  obtain  this  he  had  got  to  betray  his  allies,  the  Indians 
of  the  Upper  Lakes,  who  had  entered  his  service  under 
the  condition  that  the  war  should  continue  until  the 
Iroquois  were  exterminated.  The  latter  sent  delegates 
to  confer  with  the  French  commander  at  Montreal. 
While  this  conference  was  under  way,  a  Huron  chief 
showed  that  he  was  the  equal  of  even  Denonville  in  the 
strateg-ies  of  war  where  the  code  of  honour  was  a  dead 
letter. 

Anticipating  the  fate  in  store  for  his  race  did  the 


152  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

French  carry  out  their  scheme  of  self-defence,  this  chief 
whose  name  was  Kandironk,  "the  Rat,"  lay  in  ambush 
for  the  envoys  on  their  way  home  from  their  confer- 
ence with  Denonville,  when  the  latter  had  made  so 
many  fair  promises.  These  Kandironk  captured,  claim- 
ing he  did  it  under  orders  from  Denonville,  bore  them 
to  Michilimackinac,  and  tortured  them  as  spies.  This 
done,  he  sent  an  Iroquois  captive  to  tell  his  people 
how  fickle  the  French  could  be.  Scarcely  was  this  ac- 
complished when  he  gave  to  the  French  his  exultant  de- 
claration :  "  I  have  killed  the  peace  !  " 

The  words  were  prophetic.  Nothing  that  Denonville 
could  say  or  do  cleared  him  of  connection  with  the  affair. 
His  previous  conduct  was  enough  to  condemn  him.  To 
avenge  this  act  of  deceit,  as  the  Iroquois  considered  it, 
they  rallied  in  great  numbers,  and  on  the  night  of  Au- 
gust 4,  1689,  dealt  the  most  cruel  and  deadly  blow  given 
during  all  the  years  of  warfare  in  the  St.  Lawrence  valley. 
Fifteen  hundred  strong,  under  cover  of  the  darkness 
they  stole  down  upon  the  settlement  of  La  Chine  situ- 
ated at  the  upper  end  of  the  island  of  Montreal,  and  sur- 
prised the  inhabitants  while  they  slept  in  fancied  security. 
More  than  two  hundred  men,  women,  and  children  were 
slain  in  cold  blood,  or  borne  away  to  fates  a  hundred 
times  more  terrible  to  meet  than  swift  death.  The  day 
already  breaking  upon  the  terror-stricken  colonists  was 
the  darkest  Canada  ever  knew. 

In  addition  to  these  perils  and  horrors  of  Indian 
warfare,  from    which    Oucb(;c   suffered    her    share,  this 


The  Heroic  Period  153 

town  was  visited  in  the  summer  of  1682,  on  the  4th  of 
August,  by  a  fire  that  swept  the  Lower  Town,  leaving 
only  one  house  standing,  and  licking  up  more  than  half 
the  wealth  of  New  France. 

Following  the  massacre  of  La  Chine,  Denonville 
awoke  to  the  fact  that  instead  of  conquering  the  Eng- 
lish and  exterminating  the  Indians,  he  had  grot  to  look 
to  the  protection  of  his  own  flock.  Already  it  was 
rumoured  that  Major  Andros,  who  had  succeeded  Don- 
gan  in  New  York,  was  planning  to  conquer  New  France. 
James  II.  had  been  succeeded  as  King  of  England  by 
William  of  Orange,  who  hated  Louis,  and  war  was 
declared  between  the  two  nations. 

Fortunately  for  New  France  Denonville  was  recalled. 
He  had  shown  himself  too  weak  to  strike  a  blow  against 
the  enemy  after  the  La  Chine  horror,  as  well  as  having 
proved  that  he  was  unable  to  follow  up  the  advantage 
gained  by  La  Salle  and  even  then  faithfully  guarded  by 
Tonty,  Duluth,  and  Perrot.  The  one  man  needed  at 
that  lonely  hour  was  Frontenac.  His  faults  forgotten, 
he  was  prayed  for  by  the  Church  and  the  people ;  his 
sterling  qualities  remembered,  he  was  sent  by  Louis  to 
become  the  saviour  of  New  France. 

It  was  near  the  middle  of  October,  1689,  when  the 
ship  upon  which  the  grizzled  veteran,  erect  and  vigorous 
in  spite  of  his  seventy  years,  was  taken  back  to  Quebec, 
sailed  up  the  St.  Lawrence  and  dropped  anchor  under 
the  frowning  walls.  It  was  late  in  the  evening,  but  his 
arrival  had  been  anticipated,  and  the  expectant  citizens 


154  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

had  gathered  upon  the  quay,  Hghting  the  scene  with 
torches,  while  fireworks  and  thousands  of  coloured  lights 
illuminated  the  streets  of  the  Upper  Town  in  honour  of 
his  coming.  There  was  no  murmuring  Jesuit  protesting 
against. him  ;  no  Intendant  chafing  at  his  iron  rule  ;  but 
one  and  all  gave  the  glad  hand  of  welcome  to  the  hero, 
and  that  night  Quebec  slept  with  a  hopeful  calmness  she 
had  not  known  for  years. 

While  deficient  in  both  money  and  troops,  Frontenac 
quickly  infused  new  life  into  the  hearts  of  his  people. 
He  restored  the  Iroquois  chiefs,  so  basely  captured  by 
Denonville,  to  their  subjects,  and  the  Iroquois  felt  the 
powerful  Onontio,  as  they  called  him,  would  not  hesitate 
to  deal  with  them  as  they  had  dealt  with  the  French 
people.  But  Frontenac's  first  move  was  against  the 
English  in  what  has  passed  into  history  as  his  "  three 
winter  raids."  Made  up  of  regulars,  coureurs  de  bois, 
and  Indians,  these  war-parties  started  in  the  dead  of 
winter  from  Montreal,  Three  Rivers,  and  Quebec.  The 
first,  by  following  the  Richelieu  valley,  reached  the 
Dutch  settlement  of  Corlaer,  now  Schenectady,  N.  Y., 
which  they  desolated.  The  second  passed  up  the  valley 
of  the  St.  Francis,  through  the  deep  snow  and  the  "  white 
swamps,"  to  finally  reach  the  settlement  of  Salmon  Falls, 
on  the  border  of  New  Hampshire,  where  the  inhabitants 
were  inhumanly  butchered.  This  division  then  joined 
the  company  from  Quebec,  and  moving  against  the  vil- 
lages in  Maine  carried  on  the  work  of  desolation,  the 
Indians,  breaking  the  pledges  of  the  French  made  to 


FRONTENAC. 
From  Hebert's  Statue  at  Quebec. 


The  Heroic  Period  155 

those  who  surrendered,  adding  to  the  horrors  by  a 
shameless  slaughter  of  captives. 

News  of  these  successes  coming  to  their  ears,  the 
Indians,  who  had  faltered  in  their  allegiance  to  the 
French,  now  came  resolutely  forward.  Light  hearts 
reigned  in  Quebec,  while  up  and  down  the  valley  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  bonfires  were  lighted  in  honour  of  the 
brighter  prospects  of  New  France.  But  if  Frontenac 
had  invested  his  followers  with  renewed  courage,  by 
this  very  act  of  blood  and  rapine  he  had  aroused  the 
New  England  inhabitants  to  such  a  feeling  of  indigna- 
tion that  they  became  united  in  a  struggle  against 
Canada  which  did  not  cease  until  Quebec  fell. 

Plans  were  laid  for  the  capture  of  the  towns  on  the 
St.  Lawrence  by  the  concerted  efforts  of  the  militia  of 
New  York  against  Montreal,  and  a  naval  expedition 
against  Quebec  commanded  by  Sir  William  Phips. 
The  command  of  the  former  undertaking  was  intrusted 
to  Fitz-John  Winthrop,  under  a  commission  from  Gov- 
ernor Leisler  dated  July  31,  1690.  It  proved  a  failure 
from  the  outset.  Phips,  an  adventurer  of  checkered 
experience,  with  little  military  or  naval  skill,  but  withal 
considerable  resource  of  tactics  and  a  large  reserve 
stock  of  bluff,  in  command  of  thirty-two  vessels  of 
various  sizes,  and  a  little  over  two  thousand  men,  set 
forth  upon  his  expedition  with  entire  confidence  in 
his  ability  to  clear  the  rock  of  Quebec  of  every  foe. 
To  distract  Frontenac's  attention,  Colonel  Church  was 
sent  along  the  Atlantic  coast  with  a  land  force.      He  at 


156  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

least  accomplished  his  purpose.  Phips  had  been  en- 
couraged by  an  easy  capture  of  Port  Royal  a  short  time 
before  with  a  smaller  force,  but  he  was  to  find  a  far 
different  reception  at  Quebec. 

At  the  time,  Frontenac  was  in  Montreal  dancing 
the  war-dance  with  some  Indians  from  Michilimackinac. 
News  had  just  come  to  him  of  Colonel  Winthrop's  raid 
on  La  Prairie,  all  that  came  of  New  York's  part  in  the 
"conquest  of  Canada,"  and  he  was  planning  a  counter- 
attack for  this  assault  when  a  messenger  apprised  him 
of  the  advance  of  an  English  fleet  up  the  St.  Lawrence. 
He  returned  to  the  capital  with  all  haste  possible. 
Since  his  arrival  from  France  he  had  caused  the  weak- 
ened defences  to  be  repaired.  A  call  was  made  for  the 
rallying  of  the  Canadian  militia,  then  scattered  over 
the  country.  It  was  a  lively  day  in  Quebec,  with  her 
fortifications  still  incomplete,  her  guns  in  bad  shape, 
her  stock  of  ammunition  low,  her  provisions  scanty,  her 
troops  meagre  in  number, — but  they  had  Frontenac  ! 

The  grim  warrior  showed  no  signs  of  trepidation. 
Ay,  they  do  say  he  smiled  when,  on  the  morning  of 
October  i6th  (1690),  the  English  fleet  was  discovered 
coming  up  the  river.  For  some  reason  Phips,  usually 
so  energetic,  had  dallied  on  his  way,  stopping  nearly 
three  weeks  at  Tadousac  for  no  apparent  reason,  unless 
he  wished  to  give  his  enemy  so  much  time  to  carry 
on  the  work  of  preparation  for  him.  If  he  lost  courage 
at  sigrht  of  the  embattled  heights  he  did  not  show  it. 
Dropping  anchor  not  far  from  Vv^here  Kertk  had  done 


The  Heroic  Period  157 

the  same  upon  the  eve  of  his  conquest,  Phips  coolly 
sent  a  demand  for  the  surrender  of  the  French  strong- 
hold. This  messenger,  according  to  an  order  from 
Frontenac,  was  blindfolded  and  then  led  by  a  circuit- 
ous way  to  the  great  council  hall  in  Chateau  St.  Louis, 
where  the  royal  governor  and  his  associates  awaited 
him.  Upon  having  the  covering  removed  from  his  eyes, 
this  officer  must  have  been  possessed  of  nerves  of  iron 
not  to  be,  for  a  moment  at  least,  dumfounded  by  the 
warlike  group  before  him. 

He  found  himself  standing  before  a  tall,  thin  old  man  of  com- 
manding presence,  with  a  nose  like  an  eagle's  beak,  who  looked  at 
him  sternly  out  of  a  pair  of  fierce  grey  eyes,  deep-set  under  great 
tufted  brows — a  weather-beaten,  age-lined  face,' which,  better  than 
the  upright  figure  and  the  easy  grace  of  movement,  bespoke  years  of 
campaigning  on  the  field.     It  was  Frontenac. 

Upon  either  hand  of  him  were  representatives  of  the 
noblesse  of  the  colony,  gay  courtiers  in  brilliant  dress, 
some  young  in  years,  but  of  noble  families  and  destined 
to  carve  for  themselves  names  of  renown  in  the  com- 
ing struggle  of  New  France  ;  others  already,  like  their 
leader,  grown  grey  in  the  service  of  their  King.  To 
these  men,  but  first  to  the  white-haired  governor  in 
their  centre,  the  young  English  officer  delivered  his 
audacious  messasfe.  Frontenac's  associates  would  have 
burst  forth  into  indignant  laughter,  but  their  chief  si- 
lenced  them  with  a  wave  of  his  hand,  which  also  con- 
veyed his  answer  to  Phips,  with  the  added  explanation 
that  the  cannon  would  be  his  spokesman.      So  Phips's 


158  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

boastful  campaign  ended  in  bluster.  Possibly  he  might 
have  succeeded  had  he  followed  the  advice  given  him 
to  lead  his  men  up  the  same  pathway  where,  a  little  less 
than  three-fourths  of  a  century  later,  Wolfe  climbed  to 
immortality,  but  the  obstinate  Englishman  had  a  plan  of 
his  own  that  ended  in  disaster  to  his  hopes.  It  was  a 
forlorn  fleet  that  straggled  into  Boston,  the  ships  com- 
ing by  twos  and  singly,  such  as  did  return  ;  for  several, 
with  those  on  board,  were  never  heard  from.  New 
England  must  indeed  recuperate  her  strength  and  re- 
plenish her  treasury  before  she  again  thought  of  invad- 
ing New  France. 

Proud  indeed  was  the  moment  to  Frontenac,  when 
he  watched  the  departing  fleet  disappearing  around  the 
point  of  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  though  he  was  not  fitted 
to  attempt  any  further  the  conquest  of  the  land  of  his 
rivals.  He  stood  higher  than  ever  in  the  estimation  of 
his  followers,  and  another  good  stroke  of  fortune  lifted 
him  yet  higher  in  their  esteem.  This  was  his  success  in 
collecting  and  running  down  from  the  upper  country  a 
flotilla  of  canoes,  numbering  over  a  hundred,  every  one 
heavily  laden  with  pelts,  to  gladden  the  hearts  of  the 
traders  of  Montreal.  Nothing  liJce  that  had  been  seen 
for  years,  and  a  festival  of  rejoicing  was  held,  during 
which  it  is  said  the  courtly  governor,  despite  his  more 
than  seventy  years,  danced  with  his  dusky  voyageurs  in 
their  merry-making. 

If  the  war  between  the  French  and  the  English 
abated  for  a  time,  the  great  three-cornered  fight  was 


The  Heroic  Period  159 

not  yet  ended.  The  Iroquois  were  not  vanquished 
from  the  vales  of  the  Mohawk ;  while  in  the  east,  the 
Abnakis  were  already  duplicating  their  deeds  against 
the  French  by  leaving  trails  of  blood  between  the  New 
England  homes.  Everywhere  in  New  France  and 
New  England  the  torch  and  the  scalping-knife  were 
held  aloft,  and  both  were  crimson.  The  advantage,  if 
it  came  to  either,  fell  to  the  French. 

The  fur-trade  continued  to  yield  a  good  income,  and 
the  people  began  to  prosper  as  they  had  never  pro- 
spered before.  To  ensure  greater  glory  in  this  direc- 
tion, Frontenac  planned  a  campaign  against  the  English 
trading  posts  in  the  region  of  Hudson  Bay.  This  ex- 
pedition was  commanded  by  D'Iberville,  who  had  been 
successful  in  crowdinor  the  Eno-lish  down  to  the  sea- 
coast  in  the  lower  districts.  He  was  so  far  successful 
in  the  north  that  Frontenac  felt  as  if  he  had  but  one 
enemy  more  to  overcome.  This  was  the  irrepressible 
Iroquois,  though  even  these  had  not  rallied  as  they  had 
at  the  time  of  the  La  Chine  massacre.  He  resolved 
to  strike  one  more  blow  in  that  direction,  and  heavy 
enough  to  be  his  last. 

So,  in  1696,  in  his  seventy-sixth  year,  he  assembled 
at  Fort  Frontenac  over  two  thousand  men,  and,  cross- 
ing the  lake  with  a  vast  fleet  of  canoes,  entered  the  Os- 
wego River.  Following  this  stream  to  the  falls,  and 
transporting  their  boats  by  portage,  the  expedition, 
the  largest  invading  force  ever  seen  in  that  country, 
moved  majestically  up  Lake  Onondaga.     Discovered  by 


i6o  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Indian  scouts,  the  news  flew  like  wildfire  through  the 
encampment  of  the  Iroquois,  and,  dismayed  at  the  im- 
posing sight  of  such  an  enemy,  the  red  men  scattered 
through  the  woods,  like  rabbits  driven  from  the  brush. 
The  French  force,  marching  in  military  array,  with 
drums  beating  and  colours  flying,  advanced  upon  a  pile 
of  smouldering  ruins,  where  a  short  time  before  had 
stood  the  proud  village  of  the  Long  House.  A  few 
tardy  Indians,  hesitating  in  their  flight,  were  captured 
and  put  to  tortures  that  even  their  own  skill  could  not 
have  outdone.  Fields  of  corn,  orchards  of  apples,  and 
patches  of  melons  had  been  left  undisturbed  by  the 
fugitives.  These  the  French  ravaged  ;  and  despoiling 
village  after  village,  though  securing  few  prisoners, 
leaving  only  when  he  had  completed  a  scene  of  desola- 
tion, Frontenac  returned  in  triumph  to  the  place  of 
starting.  At  last  the  pride  and  power  of  the  Five 
Nations  had  been  humbled.  Soon  after,  the  Iroquois 
sued  for  peace.  Then,  September  20,  1697,  followed 
the  Treaty  of  Ryswick  between  the  French  and  the 
English,  which  closed  at  last  Frontenac's  long  series 
of  campaigns. 

In  truth,  the  illustrious  career  of  the  hero  was  itself 
drawing  to  a  close.  In  his  last  campaign  it  had  been 
necessary  to  carry  him  in  a  chair,  though  his  eagle  spirit 
had  not  been  daunted.  Now  the  iron  will,  unbending 
still,  was  broken  by  the  touch  of  the  eternal  hand  on 
the  28th  of  November,  1698,  in  his  seventy-eighth  year. 
Thus  passed  from  the  stage   of  action   the   strongest. 


o* 


The  Heroic  Period  i6r 

grandest  figure  since  Champlain,  and  not  to  be  equalled 
until  the  third  of  the  great  trio,  Montcalm,  should  fall 
fighting  for  the  glory  of  the  grey  old  rock  upon  which 
the  first  had  founded  and  the  second  had  defended  so 
nobly  the  honour  of  New  France. 


Chapter  XII 
Bushrangers  and   Voyagetirs 

The  Coiireurs  de  Bois — A  Unique  Canadian  Character — Their  Dress  and  Habits — 
The  Voyageiirs — Rangers  of  Romance — Personal  Appearance — Their  Roving 
Natures — Rowing  Songs — Story  of  Cadieux — His  "Lament" — Revelry  at 
the  Rendezvous — Homeward  Bound. 

FREQUENT  mention  has  been  made  in  connec- 
tion with  the  fur-trade  of  a  class  that  gave  no 
little  uneasiness  both  to  the  religious  teachers 
and  the  Government.  As  the  traffic  in  beaver  pelts  in- 
creased, this  evil  grew,  until  not  only  the  morals  but  the 
very  life  of  the  colony  was  threatened.  This  element 
has  since  found  its  rival,  though  not  its  equal,  in  the 
sable  hunters  of  Siberia.  The  nearest  approach  to  it 
with  the  English  has  been  the  trappers  of  the  Far  West, 
who  led  the  way  for  civilisation  beyond  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  As  gold-seekers,  instead  of  fur-seekers,  it 
overran  Australia  for  a  period,  and  then  vanished  as 
mysteriously  as  it  came, — as  it  finally  disappeared  from 
the  Canadian  wilds. 

I  come  now  to  speak  at  closer  range,  as  it  were,  of 
that  class  of  early  immigrants  to  Canada  which  had  the 
most  to  do  with  its  acclaim  and  the  least  to  do  with  its 
good.     These  were  the  coiLvcurs  de  bois,  or  "  runners  of 

162 


Bushrangers  and  Voyageitrs  163 

the  woods."  Coureurs  de  risqzies!  "runners  of  risks," 
says  the  keen-witted  Hontan.  Unlike  the  pioneers  of 
New  England  they  were  rovers  of  the  wilderness,  the 
fur-trade  offering  them  a  ready  excuse  for  their  wander- 
ings. But  the  actual  spirit  which  led  them  far  into  the 
forest  fastnesses  was  that  restless  nature  ever  urging 
them  on  to  find  solace  for  souls  that  neither  compassed 
restfulness  nor  longings  that  were  satisfied.  This  dar- 
ing of  the  solitude,  voluntary  isolation  of  homes,  led  the 
King  in  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century  to  order 
the  colonists,  for  their  own  safety,  which  meant  the 
well-being  of  the  colony,  "to  make  no  more  clearings 
except  one  next  to  another,  and  to  reduce  their  parishes 
so  as  to  conform  as  much  as  possible  to  the  parishes 
of  France." 

In  their  lives  alone  Canada  offers  a  great  field  for 
the  romancer.  With  a  swarthy  face,  his  small  head 
covered  with  a  red  woollen  cap,  made  loose,  or  a  head-gear 
made  of  the  skin  of  the  fox  or  the  wolf,  his  lithe  body 
clad  in  blanket-coats,  girthed  about  the  waist  with  stout 
leathern  thongs,  his  lower  limbs  encased  in  deerskin 
leggins,  fringed  along  the  seams,  and  his  feet  thrust  into 
moccasins  ornamented  with  porcupine  quills,  the  Cana- 
dian ranger  looked  what  he  was,  the  most  picturesque 
character  that  came  to  the  front  in  those  adventurous 
times.  In  the  course  of  his  career  he  was  wandering  all 
over  the  great  North-west.  Without  him  New  France 
must  have  remained  a  dream  in  the  troubled  sleep  of 
the  French;  with  him,  she  became  a  nightmare. 


1 64  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Following  close  upon  the  heels  of  the  fortune-seeking 
fur-traders  who  pushed  out  into  the  wilderness  along  the 
St.  Lawrence  and  its  many  tributaries,  establishing  their 
posts  to  carry  on  their  rude  commerce,  came  that  class  of 
adventurers  styled  the  Canadian  voyageurs,  whose  very 
name  became  synonymous  of  bravery  and  romance.  By 
this  term  I  am  not  understood  to  mean  the  first  sailors 
and  explorers  who  came  to  Canada,  but  rather  their  de- 
scendants, many  of  whom  were  half-breeds,  all  of  whom 
were  roving,  care-free  followers  of  the  wilderness,  noted 
for  the  skill  with  which  they  handled  their  birchen  skiffs, 
and  found  wherever  these  could  penetrate  with  their  sharp 
prows  the  many  streams  abounding  in  a  country  richly 
endowed  in  this  respect.  Their  temperament  seems 
to  have  been  the  embodiment  of  the  restless  energy  for 
conquest  and  intense  longing  for  loneliness  that  per- 
vaded all  of  the  earlier  enterprises  of  New  France.  It 
was  the  controlling  spirit  of  Cartier  and  his  followers  ; 
it  was  the  guiding  star  of  the  coureur  de  bois,  setting 
only  when  \h^  fleur-de-lis  of  France  faded  from  the  rock 
of  Quebec  ;  it  was  the  overruling  power  of  the  zeal- 
ous missionary,  sending  him  far  and  wide  into  the  sav- 
age wilderness ;  it  even  entered  into  the  foundation  of 
the  colonial  homes,  scattering  them  in  a  way  that  greatly 
enlarged  the  domains  of  New  France.  In  Champlain 
we  find  a  happy  combination  of  the  missionary  and  the 
voyageur,  with  a  leavening  of  home  love. 

There  was  possibly  no  phase  of  life  in  the  break- 
ing   of    the    American    wilderness    which    afforded    a 


- '  'i-* 


=«&«?":■= 


.  -^^r-y  ^- 


I 


Bushrangers  and  Voyageiirs  165 

larger  meed  of  romance  and  adventure  than  that 
of  the  Canadian  voyageur,  in  the  days  when  the  forest 
was  pathless  and  the  St.  Lawrence  bore  on  its  broad 
bosom  no  larger  craft  than  an  occasional  caravel  from 
the  Old  World.  Trained  from  early  boyhood  to  the 
exciting  work  of  propelling  their  crafts  up  and  down 
the  streams,  now  stemming  some  furious  rapid,  anon 
running  the  cataracts,  at  periods  compelled  to  make  a 
tedious  portage  where  the  waters  ran  too  wild  to  risk 
the  loss  of  their  freight,  apparently  calling  for  more 
concern  than  their  lives,  they  could  not  have  been  other 
than  hardy,  reckless,  intrepid  spirits,  whose  only  relax- 
ation was  to  be  found  at  the  trading  station,  where  too 
often  their  meagre  earnings  were  spent  in  the  jovial 
bowl.  At  these  rendezvous  the  wine  ran  freely,  so  much 
the  worse  for  them,  as  those  were  days  of  liberal  drink- 
ing, when  joviality  reigned  over  the  flowing  bowl  and 
under  the  spell  of  the  goddess  of  song.  Frequently 
they  were  of  pure  Iroquois  or  Huron  blood ;  more 
often  they  were  a  mixture  of  white  and  red  parentage, 
often  noticeable  in  the  dark  features  of  some  Norman 
whose  skin  was  given  a  deeper  bronze  by  his  mother,  a 
dusky  Indian  maid.  The  majority  of  the  voyageurs 
were  of  French  extraction. 

The  garb  of  this  rover  of  the  forest  and  river  was  in 
poetical  harmony  with  his  character  and  surround- 
ings. It  consisted  of  a  cotton  shirt,  generally  striped 
in  bright  colours,  cloth  trousers,  and  leather  leggins. 
The  feet  were  encased  in  deerskin  moccasins.     Over  the 


1 66  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

shoulders  rested  lightly,  each  passing  breeze  lifting  it 
in  graceful  imitation  of  the  movement  of  the  wearer,  a 
capot  or  little  cloak.  His  waist  was  girthed  about  with 
a  wide  worsted  belt  with  flowing  ends,  from  which  were 
suspended  a  knife  and  tobacco  pouch.  This  half-wild 
dress  of  the  voyageur  was  rendered  more  picturesque 
in  case  the  owner  was  the  favourite  follower  of  some 
brigade  leader,  when  he  would  have  a  lonor  black  or  red 
feather  attached  to  his  close-fitting  cap. 

In  keeping  with  the  supple  figure  of  the  man,  his 
canoe  was  builded  of  wonderful  lightness,  considering 
that  no  sacrifice  of  the  strength  and  lasting  qualities 
that  were  necessary  had  been  allowed.  It  was  made  of 
birch  bark  cut  in  sheets  of  suitable  length,  and  selected 
by  an  experienced  eye  for  its  thinness  and  durability. 
The  seams  were  pitched  so  as  to  be  water-tight.  One 
of  these  crafts,  capable  of  carrying  great  weight,  could  be 
easily  carried  upon  the  shoulders  of  a  single  man.  It 
passed  the  comprehension  of  the  Indians  that  these 
new-comers  could  outdo  them  with  generations  of  train- 
ing in  this  handicraft,  and  they  believed  the  Frenchmen 
had  been  given  special  secrets  by  the  Great  Spirit. 

There  were  heavier  canoes  for  transporting  freight, 
and  these  were  marvels  of  lightness,  considering  their 
ability  to  carry  from  three  to  four  tons'  burden.  A 
crew  usually  consisted  of  a  dozen  men,  who  were  capable 
of  moving  their  boat  along  at  a  rapid  rate  of  speed, 
notwithstanding  its  heavy  freight. 

Nothing  suited  these  rowers  better  than  their  period- 


Bushrangers  and  Voyageurs  167 

ical  trips  into  the  river-bound  interior  of  an  unexplored 
country,  and  yet,  like  sailors  about  to  embark  upon  their 
long  voyages,  upon  the  eve  of  their  departure  upon  a 
trip  which  might  keep  them  away  for  months,  they  de- 
lighted to  drown  their  anxieties  in  brimming  bumpers  of 
wine,  until  it  often  became  necessary  for  their  leaders  to 
carefully  keep  them  in  ignorance  of  the  actual  day  set 
for  the  journey.  Otherwise,  the  day  of  their  departure 
known,  a  generous  feast  was  given  by  their  friends  and 
loved  ones,  when  wives,  children,  and  sweethearts  gath- 
ered around  them  to  bid  their  husky  farewells  and  hope- 
ful '^  bo7i  voyaged 

No  sooner  was  the  ordeal  of  separation  over  than  the 
wild  natures  of  the  crew  asserted  themselves,  and  while 
the  cheers  of  those  who  remained  behind  rang  on  the 
air,  serving  to  encourage  them,  each  round  growing 
fainter  and  more  prolonged,  the  entire  party  would 
strike  up  a  chanson  de  voyage,  the  volume  of  the  song 
more  than  making  up  for  its  lack  of  melody. 

Not  infrequently  some  old  French  song  of  tradi- 
tional love  affair  would  be  started  by  him  at  the  steer- 
ing paddle,  when  his  companions  would  quickly  join  in, 
until  the  welkin  would  ring  with  the  melody  of  voices. 
These  were  usually  selected  with  a  remarkable  fitness 
for  the  occasion  and  environment  of  the  situation.  Was 
the  canoe  gliding  over  some  placid  lake,  where  scarcely 
a  breath  of  air  moved  the  glassy  surface  of  the  water, 
the  song  was  sure  to  move  in  harmony  with  the  calm- 
ness of  the  tranquil  scene.     Should  they  be  approaching  a 


1 68  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

waterfall,  the  foam  upon  the  river  was  no  surer  indica- 
tion of  the  coming  struggle  with  the  elements  than  the 
quickening  notes  of  the  singer,  the  increased  volume  of 
the  song,  the  growing  impetuosity  of  the  melody,  ring- 
ing with  the  spirit  of  enthusiasm  to  do  and  dare  what- 
ever lay  in  their  pathway.  Did  the  arms  of  the  rower 
tire,  or  his  spirits  lag  for  a  time,  some  gay  song  burning 
with  new-born  activity  would  revive  the  faltering  energy. 
At  all  times  the  paddles  kept  time  with  the  singers. 
Among  the  favourite  songs  was  A  la  Claire  Fontai7iey 
whose  opening  stanza  runs — 

A  la  claire  fontaine, 
M'en  allant  promener, 
J'ai  trouve  I'eau  si  belle, 
Que  je  m'y  suis  baigne. 

A  free  translation  in  Engrlish  makes  this  : 

Unto  the  crystal   fountain. 

For  pleasure  did  I  stray  ; 

So  fair  I  found  the  waters, 

In  them  my  limbs  I  lay. 
Another  popular  rowing  song  among  the  voyageurs 
was  Dans  les  Prisons  de  Nantes,  which,  unlike  most  of 
the  Canadian  sonofs  that  could  be  traced  back  to  an  ori- 
gin  in  the  old  country,  seems  to  have  been  composed  by 
one  of  this  hardy  class.  This  goes  on  to  describe  in 
verses  of  more  than  ordinary  merit  how  a  soldier  was 
captured  and  thrown  into  prison  at  Nantes  to  be  freed 
by  the  gaoler's  pretty  daughter  the  eve  before  the  day 
upon  which  he  was  to  have  been  shot.     There  was  still 


Bushrangers  and  Voyageurs  169 

another  of  these  songs  frequently  sung,  around  which 
clung  a  pathetic  story  of  heroism  unto  death. 

As  far  back  as  the  days  of  Champlain  an  educated 
and  adventurous  Frenchman  named  Cadieux  met,  upon 
one  of  his  trips  into  the  wilderness  in  quest  of  furs,  the 
beautiful  daughter  of  a  chief  of  the  tribe  of  Indians 
living  upon  the  upper  Ottawa.  Falling  in  love  with 
this  dusky  belle  of  the  wilds,  he  made  her  his  wife,  and 
built  him  a  dwellino-  in  that  reo:ion  within  siofht  and 
sound  of  the  river.  For  several  years  his  cabin  home 
was  the  rendezvous  for  voyageurs  ranging  the  country 
in  that  direction,  until  the  hospitality  of  this  couple  be- 
came widely  known.  But  one  day  they  were  surprised 
by  a  band  of  hostile  Iroquois  just  as  they  were  launch- 
ing their  canoes  upon  the  rapid  stream.  Cut  off  from 
reaching  their  cabin,  Cadieux  shouted  to  his  companion 
to  keep  on  down  the  river  while  he  went  up-stream, 
expecting  by  this  stratagem  either  to  divide  the  force  of 
their  enemies  or  give  his  wife  an  easy  way  of  escape  by 
calling  all  the  Iroquois  after  him. 

Confident  of  capturing  both  of  them  the  latter  gave 
pursuit  in  both  directions,  expecting  to  make  quick 
work  of  overtaking  the  woman,  as  her  light  canoe  was 
plunged  into  the  boiling  water  where  it  did  not  seem 
possible  to  escape.  But  like  a  feather  it  was  lifted  from 
pool  to  pool,  while  in  the  mist  that  enveloped  the  es- 
caping spouse  the  Iroquois  discerned  a  female  figure 
beckoning  her  on.  The  fleeing  Christian  wife  after- 
wards declared  that  she  was  guided  to  safety  by  "  Bonne 


ijo  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Ste.  Anne."  At  any  rate  the  Iroquois  abandoned  their 
pursuit  of  her,  and  she  succeeded  in  getting  away  with- 
out being  harmed.  Cadieux  was  less  fortunate.  After 
seeing  his  wife  successfully  shoot  the  rapids,  having 
killed  two  of  his  enemies,  and  received  himself  a  painful 
wound,  the  brave  voyageur  kept  on  up  the  river  to  a 
cave  opening  upon  its  bank.  Crawling  into  this  retreat 
he  prepared  to  defend  himself  unto  the  end.  So  de- 
sperately did  he  do  this,  that  his  foes  tried  in  vain  for 
three  days  and  nights  to  drive  him  out  or  reach  him. 
But  the  end  was  near  now.  The  pangs  of  hunger,  his 
lack  of  sleep,  his  exhaustion  from  his  unbroken  vigilance, 
to  say  nothing  of  the  weakness  resulting  from  his  wounds, 
all  combined  to  warn  him  of  his  fate.  Surrender  he 
never  would,  and  so  deliberately  planned  to  die  of  starv- 
ation, if  he  escaped  death  otherwise.  In  the  intervals 
of  his  long  and  painful  suspense,  he  composed  his 
Lament  de  Cadieux,  writing  it  down  upon  scraps  of 
birch  bark  in  his  own  blood.  This  was  found  beside 
his  lifeless  body,  by  his  faithful  wife,  who  sought  to 
effect  his  rescue  as  soon  as  she  could  find  succour,  and 
its  touching  and  beautiful  strains  became  a  favourite  with 
the  voyageur s  as  they  drew  near  the  foaming  currents 
of  the  upper  Ottawa,  while  on  the  St.  Lawrence  they 
were  long  popular  and  are  still  remembered,  as  well  as 
the  pathetic  fate  of  their  author. 

So  these  half-wild  beings  of  woods  and  water, 
thoughtless  of  future  perils,  paddled  industriously 
against  the  current  of  some  rapid  stream,  carrying  their 


t 


Bushrangers  and  Voyagetirs  171 

boats  and  freight  around  the  rifts  that  were  impassable, 
now  making  the  welkin  ring  with  the  melody  of  their 
songs,  anon  gliding  like  shadows  over  some  sheet  of 
dark  water,  camping  at  the  close  forgetful  of  the  dangers 
and  hardship  of  their  voyage,  while  they  peopled  the 
night  with  weird  creatures  of  their  fanciful  tales  told 
under  the  mystic  spell  of  the  pipe  and  the  glowing 
embers. 

Wherever  they  went,  and  that  was  all  over  Canada, 
their  track  was  marked  at  frequent  intervals  by  wooden 
crosses,  where  some  comrade,  worn  out  with  the  ceaseless 
toil  of  his  journey,  or  meeting  a  more  untimely  fate  in 
the  swirling  eddies  of  some  uncommonly  dangerous  rift, 
found  his  resting-place. 

Where  the  stalwart  oak  grew  and  lived 
Long  ages  and  died  among  its  kind. 

The  voyagetirs  from  each  section  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
had  their  particular  rendezvous  where  they  found  a 
hearty  greeting  at  the  end  of  their  arduous  journey. 
Those  who  went  up  the  Saguenay  found  their  destina- 
tion at  the  station  of  Roberval  on  the  headwaters  of 
that  river,  a  place  filled  with  tragic  memories.  The 
followers  of  the  Ottawa  from  Montreal  stopped  at  Fort 
Nicollet,  later  renamed  Fort  William.  A  large  wooden 
building  had  been  erected  here  to  accommodate  the 
voyageurs  and  coureurs  de  bois  who  met  here  to 
transfer  their  merchandise  and  barter  news  as  well  as 
trade.  The  great  council  hall,  where  the  whites  had 
been  wont  to  meet  the  Indians  in  trying  a  debate,  now 


172  The  St  Lawrence  River 

became  the  banquet-room  and  the  scene  of  ungovernable 
revehy,when  the  passions  of  half-wild  men  were  loosened 
by  the  brimming  bowl  and  the  merry  songs.  Especial 
effort  was  made  to  load  the  tables  with  the  choicest 
viands  from  nature's  storehouse  of  game.  Among  the 
daintiest  morsels  served  at  these  banquets  were  buf- 
falos'  tongues  and  beavers'  tails.  Then,  the  cargoes 
loaded  and  everything  in  readiness  for  departure,  a  final 
feast  was  given,  a  closing  toast  drunk,  the  last  hand- 
shake over,  our  voyageurs  start  their  canoes  homeward, 
as  they  glide  with  the  current  of  the  river,  singing  some 
favourite  song  expressive  of  their  freedom  from  cares : 

The  river  runs  free, 

The  west  wind  is  clear, 

And  my  love  is  calling  to  me. 

There  is  a  good  wind. 

There  is  a  free  tide, 

And  my  love  is  waiting  for  me. 

Those  who  may  feel  that  all  this  was  close  to  an 
element  of  savagery  should  not  forget  that  it  is  but  a 
step  backward  from  civilisation  to  barbarism.  If  it  was 
a  trait  to  be  found  in  our  ancestors  that  we  believe  we 
have  not  inherited,  it  was  because  they  lived  nearer  to 
nature.  But  we  have  not  escaped  it  if  we  would.  In 
the  rapidity  and  pleasure  with  which  men  delight  to 
isolate  themselves,  break  away  from  the  shell  of  conven- 
tionality and  wallow  in  the  furrow  of  indolent  imagery, 
we  see  ample  proof  of  the  truth  of  this.  We  see  it 
typified  in  the  hunter  lured  into  the  depths  of  the  forest 
under  the  pretence  of  slaying  some  helpless  victim,  but 


Bushrangers  and  Voyageurs  173 

really  governed  by  the  irresistible  impulse  to  be  by  him- 
self. There  is  evidence  of  it  in  the  naturalist,  in  the 
mountaineer,  in  the  friend  who  frequently  breaks  away 
from  the  social  ties  of  life  to  roam  the  open  fields, 
wander  in  the  fastness  of  the  forest,  loneliness  of  the 
mountain,  the  sublimity  of  the  seashore.  It  is  not  an 
indication  of  weakness.  Rather  it  is  the  vital  spark 
of  humanity.  So  long  as  its  embers  last  will  there  be 
hope  for  the  race. 


Chapter    XIII 
When   Quebec   Fell 

Situation  under  Frontenac's  Successors — Infamous  Conduct  of  Bigot  and  Others — 
Declaration  of  War,  1756 — Arrival  of  Montcalm — His  Early  Victories — 
Driven  Back  to  Quebec — Wolfe  and  his  Army  Reach  Isle  of  Orleans — Siege 
of  Quebec — Wolfe's  Famous  Path  to  the  Plains  of  Abraham — The  Battle — 
Rout  of  the  French — Wolfe  and  Montcalm  Shot — Scenes  that  Followed. 

FRONTENAC  left  New  France  at  the  high-water 
mark  of  prosperity  and  power.  Never  before 
had  its  people  been  favoured  with  such  rare 
good  fortune  ;  and  never  would  it  enjoy  such  favours. 
The  St.  Lawrence  bore  upon  its  broad  shield  more 
ships  of  commerce  than  it  had  ever  known,  and  every 
inland  stream  was  the  pathway  of  the  hardy  voyageur, 
e?i  route  with  his  cargo  of  furs.  The  population  had 
increased;  new  towns  had  sprung  up;  and  now  the  fickle 
goddess  which  had  so  long  coquetted  with  "  Our  Lady 
of  the  Snow  "  seemed  to  surrender  without  reserve. 

Still  there  were  many  perplexing  problems  to  be 
settled.  Much  as  the  trade  of  the  St.  Lawrence  valley 
had  increased,  it  was  not  yet  sufficient  to  meet  all  its 
obligations  without  help  from  the  mother-hand.  The 
Iroquois  were  not  yet  fully  subdued,  and  from  time 
to  time  they  raided  the  country,  in  small  parties  it  is 
true,  but  none  the  less  to  be  dreaded.     It  cost  consider- 

174 


When  Quebec  Fell  175 

able  to  maintain  the  friendship  of  the  Abnakis  in  the 
east.  The  English  were  drawing  from  them  their  trade 
by  the  way  of  the  Kennebec,  Hudson,  Ohio,  and  the 
Mississippi.  The  cabins  of  English  pioneers,  as  well  as 
the  huts  of  their  traders,  were  springing  up  where  least 
expected.  In  order  to  protect  the  valley  of  the  west 
it  was  necessary  to  draw  from  the  valley  of  the  St. 
Lawrence. 

The  population  at  this  time  of  New  France  did  not 
reach  higher  than  thirty  thousand  souls.  Besides  these 
there  were  not  less  than  five  thousand  soldiers  in  the 
country,  comprising  some  of  the  best-drilled  regiments 
in  the  world.  To  strengthen  the  military  force  were  the 
country  militia,  which  consisted  of  every  male  citizen 
able  to  bear  arms,  while  there  was  not  a  seigneur  of  the 
villages  and  fortress-like  ch3.teauxthat  was  not  capable  of 
leadinor  these  men  in  war.  Added  to  all  of  these  were 
the  scattered  bands  of  savages,  trained  by  the  Jesuits, 
themselves  imbued  with  a  martial  spirit  scarcely  inferior 
to  their  religious  enthusiasm.  These  were  powerful 
allies  in  the  sanguinary  struggle  waged  so  long.  In  point 
of  military  ability  New  France  was  far  superior  to  her  rival. 

But  the  worst  enemies  this  fair  empire  knew  were 
those  within  the  fold.  If  England  was  accustomed,  now 
and  then,  to  steal  a  plum  from  the  pudding  of  her  colo- 
nists, France  was  ready  to  take  the  pudding.  Few  of 
the  many  who  were  intrusted  with  the  guardianship  of 
this  fair  Avard  of  the  St,  Lawrence  were  faithful  to  their 
charge  ;  to  the  pity  of  the  child  ;  to  the  shame  of  the 


1/6  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

mother.  And  each  despoiler,  regardless  of  the  suffer- 
ings he  had  inflicted,  turned  from  his  victim  with  the 
disdain  of  the  Hbertine,  spurning  the  virtue  he  had 
violated.  But  the  day  of  reckoning  was  not  so  far 
removed. 

Frontenac  was  succeeded  by  Vaudreuil,  under  whose 
long  rule  the  cultivation  of  flax  and  hemp  and  the  home 
manufacture  of  clothing  was  encouraged.  Greater 
attention  was  paid  to  the  fisheries,  and  shipbuilding 
flourished.  Considerable  trade  with  the  West  Indies 
was  opened,  while  the  traffic  in  furs  was  not  abated. 
Continual  efforts  were  made  to  hold  the  two  great  water- 
ways of  the  continent,  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Mis- 
sissippi, against  the  encroachments  of  the  English.  A 
French  fort  was  again  planted  at  Niagara,  but  the 
English  counterbalanced  this  by  erecting  one  at  Os- 
wego. Louis  XIV.  died  in  1715,  and  from  this  time 
on  New  France  felt  the  loss  of  his  strong  arm. 
Vaudreuil  died  in  1725,  and  was  succeeded  by  Marquis 
Beauharnois,  who  gave  more  attention  to  checking  the 
advance  of  the  English  and  less  to  home  enterprise. 
At  the  head  of  the  Narrows  of  Lake  Champlain  he 
built  the  stronghold  known  as  Crown  Point,  and  which 
was  to  play  such  an  important  part  in  the  war  to  follow. 
In  1745  the  troops  of  New  England,  with  the  assist- 
ance of  some  British  ships,  captured  Louisbourg.  In 
1756,  what  became  known  as  the  Seven  Years'  War  was 
declared. 

No  matter  what  else  may  be  laid  to  the  charge  of 


MARQUIS    DE    MONTCALM. 


When  Quebec  Fell  177 

France,  she  generally  sent  her  best  to  help  fight  the 
battles  of  the  colony  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  now  she 
quickly  dispatched  one  of  her  ablest  commanders,  the 
Marquis  de  Montcalm.  With  him  she  sent  De  Levis, 
De  Bougainville,  and  De  Bourlamaque,  and  some  of  the 
best  regiments.  In  respect  to  military  skill  the  English 
soon  proved  far  inferior.  But  if  stronger  from  the  point 
of  the  sword,  so  to  speak,  New  France  was  in  every 
other  way  much  the  weaker  of  the  two.  This  had  come 
about  through  a  gradual  weakening  of  the  parent  hand. 
Canada  had,  through  no  fault  of  her  own,  become  a  jest 
among  certain  ones  high  in  kingly  favour.  "  Fifteen 
thousand  acres  of  snow  !  "  said  one,  "  a  beautiful  inher- 
itance !  "  Immigration  had  long  since  ceased,  and  the 
increase  in  population  had  not  been  as  great  as  had 
been  wished.  There  were  about  sixty  thousand  inhabit- 
ants at  this  time  ;  possibly  a  few  more,  probably  a  few 
less.  Of  these,  seven  thousand  lived  in  Quebec,  mostly 
in  the  Lower  Town.  Montreal  could  claim  between 
three  and  four  thousand,  while  the  balance  were  scat- 
tered up  and  down  the  valley.  Nor  was  this  sparse 
population  the  only  weak  spot  of  the  country.  The 
political  power  of  the  colony  was  rotten  to  the  core. 
This  had  been  slowly  decaying,  until  the  worst  came 
upon  the  appearance  on  the  scene  of  him  whose  bril- 
liancy was  more  than  sunk  by  his  infamy.  More  's  the 
the  dishonour,  he  came  not  as  the  choice  of  the  weak- 
ling with  the  title  of  king,  but  through  the  wish  of 
his  mistress,    Madame  de  la   Pompadour.     His  name 


178  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

was  Francois  Bigot,  and  he  disgraced  the  high  office 
created  for  the  noble  Talon.  One  of  Canada's  his- 
torians (Roberts),  in  describing  him  and  his  atrocious 
acts,  says : 

Offices  of  profit  under  his  authority  he  filled  with  such  men  as 
would  follow  his  example  and  act  as  his  tools.  The  old  seigneurial 
families,  unable  to  stem  the  tide  of  corruption,  for  the  most  part  held 
aloof  on  their  estates;  though  a  few  yielded  to  the  baneful  example. 
The  masses  suffered  in  hopeless  silence.  Montcalm,  the  military 
chief,  had  small  means  of  knowing  the  real  state  of  affairs,  and  still 
less  means  of  interfering  had  he  known.  The  governor  alone, 
Vaudreuil,  might  have  changed  it;  but  he  was  either  blinded  by 
Bigot's  cleverness  or  in  sympathy  with  his  crimes.  Either  directly 
or  through  his  confederates,  of  whom  the  most  notorious  was  a  con- 
tractor named  Cadet,  Bigot's  thieveries  rose  to  a  colossal  figure. 
The  King's  millions  sent  out  for  war,  the  people's  millions  squeezed 
from  them  in  crushing  taxes,  alike  found  their  way  into  these 
rapacious  pockets.  The  enemies  of  New  France  within  the  walls 
were  as  deadly  as  those  without.  As  outside  perils  thickened 
Bigot's  thefts  grew  more  daring.  Forts  fell  like  ripe  fruit  into  the 
hands  of  the  English,  because  they  were  commanded  by  weak 
favourites  of  the  Intendant,  or  because  the  Intendant  had  kept  the 
money  which  should  have  supplied  them  with  arms  and  food. 
.  .  .  It  is  claimed  that  in  two  years  alone,  1757  and  1758,  the 
Intendant  cheated  his  King  and  country  out  of  nearly  five  million 
dollars.  ^ 

While  that  fact,  as  satisfactory  as  it  may  be,  did  not 
help  the  situation  then,  it  is  gratifying  to  know  that  this 
infamous  wretch  was  finally  punished  for  his  misde- 
meanours by  banishment  from  France,  and  his  estates 
confiscated. 

Under  these  adverse  circumstances  was  Montcalm 
called  upon  to  defend  the  honour  of  this  ravaged  peo- 
ple.    As  might   have   been  expected,  for  a  time   this 


When  Quebec  Fell  179 

gallant  soldier  was  successful.  He  was  victorious  at 
Ticonderoga,  following  the  capture  of  Fort  William 
Henry,  with  its  accompanying  horrors.  But  the  French 
lost  Louisbourg,  and  Canada  was  cut  in  twain  through 
the  capture  of  Fort  Frontenac  by  a  body  of  colonial 
militia.  In  the  east  and  in  the  west  Canada  was  writh- 
ing under  the .  blows  of  her  enemy.  Montcalm  was 
driven  back  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  but  where  he  moved 
there  was  hope.  Now,  if  ever.  New  France  needed  the  aid 
of  the  King,  but  Montcalm's  earnest  request  for  men  and 
money  was  met  by  a  firm  refusal,  and  he  was  told  to 
stand  upon  the  defensive  and  await  the  turn  of  fortune. 
Under  such  conditions  as  these,  with  the  vultures  still 
clutching  at  her  throat,  Montcalm  prepared  for  the  in- 
evitable at  Quebec. 

The  story  of  the  siege  and  capture  of  Quebec  by 
Wolfe  has  been  told  so  frequently,  and  so  well,  that  a 
detailed  description  is  not  called  for  here.  Of  the  com- 
manders, the  British  general  was  the  junior  of  his  rival 
by  fourteen  years.  He  was  of  slight  frame,  and  not 
physically  strong.  He  was  the  son  of  industrious  but 
humble  parents,  educated  for  war,  had  seen  some  hard 
fighting,  and  had  been  the  choice  of  Pitt,  then  the  domi- 
nating spirit  in  England,  to  command  an  expedition 
against  the  stronghold  of  New  France.  He  had  under 
him  less  than  nine  thousand  men,  composed  of  tried  and 
stalwart  regulars  of  the  English  army,  and  a  company 
of  New  England  rangers,  who  had  made  the  success  of 
the  English  on  the  lakes  of  the  highlands  certain. 


i8o  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Montcalm  was  the  son  of  a  nobleman  of  the  best 
blood  of  France.  He,  too,  had  been  trained  from  boy- 
hood as  a  soldier,  and  had  won  signal  distinction  as 
a  military  leader.  Like  Wolfe  he  had  accepted  this 
charge  from  a  sense  and  love  of  duty,  rather  than  from 
his  own  choice.  He  had  a  force  of  about  sixteen  thou- 
sand men,  of  whom  about  four  thousand  were  regulars, 
and  five  thousand  belono-ed  to  the  Canadian  militia. 
One  of  the  last-named  was  considered  to  be  equal  to 
three  regulars  when  it  came  to  bush-fighting,  but  he 
was  an  uncertain  factor  in  open  battle.  The  balance 
of  his  troops  were  undisciplined  peasants  and  Indians. 
He  knew  the  fate  of  New  France  rested  with  him. 
Should  Wolfe  fail  another  might  renew  the  struggle. 
Should  he  fail,  and  Quebec  fall,  slight  hope  would  there 
be  for  the  French  in  the  St.  Lawrence  valley. 

Montcalm  closed  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Charles  with 
great  booms  of  timber,  and  planted  upon  its  banks 
frowning  batteries.  At  the  outlet  of  the  Beauport 
stream  he  constructed  a  floating  battery  of  twelve  guns- 
In  fact  he  ranged  defences  along  the  St.  Lawrence  as 
far  down  as  the  Montmorency.  De  Ramesay  was  given 
two  thousand  men  with  which  to  defend  the  Lower 
Town,  while  a  cordon  of  fire-ships  and  gunboats  lined 
the  water's  edge.  Behind  a  hundred  cannons  bidding 
defiance  to  the  enemy  from  the  summit  of  rock,  he 
stationed  the  main  body  of  his  force,  ready  at  a  mo- 
ment's warning  to  rush  to  the  defence  of  any  position. 
His    situation    seemed    impregnable, — without  a  possi- 


When  Quebec  Fell  i8i 

billty  of    an    attack  from    the    rear;  with  a  front  that 
seemed  insurmountable. 

Wolfe  and  his  fleet  appeared  opposite  the  Isle  of 
Orleans  toward  the  last  of  June,  1759,  ^"^  disembark- 
ing his  troops  he  intrenched  himself  on  the  western 
point,  within  four  miles  of  the  enemy's  guns  looking 
ominously  down  upon  him  from  the  rocky  citadel.  The 
French  fleet  had  been  sent  up  the  river  for  safety,  and 
to  allow  the  crews  to  assist  in  the  defence  of  the  city. 

Before  Wolfe's  eyes  was  now  unfolded  the  magnitude  of  his 
task.'  On  his  right  was  the  splendid  white  cataract  of  Montmor- 
ency leaping  out  of  the  dark  fir  groves  on  the  summit  of  the  ridge. 
Beyond  lay  the  long,  serried  lines  of  intrenchments,  swarming  with 
the  white  uniforms  of  France.  Then  the  crowded,  steep  roofs  and 
spires  of  the  Lower  Town,  with  the  gunboats  and  fire-ships  on  its 
water-front.  And  then,  soaring  over  all,  the  majestic  promontory 
of  Cape  Diamond;  its  grim  face  seamed  with  batteries,  and  stairs, 
and  climbing  ribbons  of  streets;  its  summit  crowned  with  portentous 
bastions  and  with  the  chivalrous  banners  of  France. 

Escaping  a  desperate  effort  on  the  part  of  the  French  to  de- 
stroy his  ships  by  the  fire-boats,  Wolfe  fortified  himself,  and  planted 
batteries  on  Point  Levi,  from  whence  he  could  bombard  the  city. 
He  took  possession  of  the  height  below  Montmorency,  and  tried  to 
get  in  the  rear  of  Montcalm's  line  of  defence,  but  failed  in  his 
purpose.  Under  cover  of  his  guns  on  Point  Levi,  he  did  succeed 
in  sending  a  portion  of  his  fleet  up  the  river,  to  harass  his  enemy 
between  Quebec  and  Cap  Rouge.  But  in  spite  of  his  endeavours 
the  summer  passed  without  bringing  him  any  encouragement  of 
ultimate  success.  He  had  lost  half  a  thousand  men  in  a  vain  attack 
upon  Beauport,  and  nearly  as  many  more  from  the  firing  of  their 
foes  and  sickness.  The  expected  aid  from  Amherst  was  not  likely 
to  come.  Troubled  to  obtain  supplies  for  his  army,  and  himself  ill 
with  a  fever,  it  was  little  wonder  the  brave  and  sanguine  commander 
began  to  lose  courage.  Without  having  gained  any  vantage  after 
over  two  months  of  desultory  fighting,  was  there  any  prospect  that 

'  Roberts. 


1 82  The  St  Lawrence  River 

he  could  do  better  for  the  next  sixty  days  ?  By  the  end  of  that  time 
cold  weather  would  be  upon  them,  and  it  would  not  do  for  them  to 
remain  and  get  ice-locked.  Looking  the  situation  squarely  in  the 
face,  without  losing  courage  or  buoying  himself  up  by  any  dream  of 
success,  Wolfe  began  to  consider  a  new,  and  bolder,  plan  of  operation. 

About  the  first  of  September  he  was  apprised  of  what  Phips  had 
been  told  in  his  forlorn  attack  years  before.  This  was  the  fact  of  a 
slight  break  in  the  river-bank,  where  men  could  scale  the  ascent  to 
the  top.  The  place  was  guarded,  but  a  small  body  of  men  climbing 
up  to  them  unawares  might  easily  overpower  them,  and  hold  the 
pass  until  the  main  body  of  the  army  could  ascend  to  the  plains. 
Wolfe  profited  where  Phips  lost.  It  was  a  desperate  undertaking, 
and  to  do  it  he  must  recall  his  force  from  Montmorency.  But  even 
this  worked  in  his  favour,  for  the  watchful  Montcalm  concluded  that 
it  was  the  first  step  toward  withdrawing;  and  every  move  Wolfe 
made  was  given  this  substantial  colouring.  The  alertness  of  the 
French  commander  is  expressed  in  his  own  words: 

"  Our  troops  are  in  their  tents,  with  clothes  on,  ready  for  an  alarm; 
I  in  my  boots;  my  horses  saddled.  In  fact,  this  is  my  custom.  I 
wish  you  were  here,  for  I  cannot  be  everywhere,  though  I  multiply 
myself,  and  have  not  taken  off  my  clothes  since  the  23rd  of  June." 

Again,  on  the  nth  of  September,  only  two  days 
before  the  great  battle,  he  wrote  to  Bourlamaque,  pro- 
bably his  last  message  : 

I  am  oppressed  with  work,  and  should  often  lose  my  temper, 
as  you  do,  if  I  were  not  paid  by  Europe  not  to  do  it.  Nothing 
new  has  occurred  since  I  wrote  you  last.  I  give  the  enemy  an- 
other month,  or  even  less,  to  stay  here. 

He  had  written  that  a  hundred  men  could  hold  at 
bay  any  force  the  enemy  might  try  to  push  up  the  gully 
of  Anse  du  Foulon,  where  Wolfe  had  fixed  his  gaze. 
Perhaps  he  was  right.  It  should  so  be  under  proper 
watchfulness.  Even  the  hawk  sleeps  sometimes.  For- 
tune favours  the  bold.      In  order  to  replenish  their  less- 


When  Quebec  Fell  183 

ening  stock  of  provisions,  the  French  planned  to  run 
down,  under  cover  of  night,  boats  from  Montreal.  While 
this  scheme  had  really  been  abandoned,  the  sentries 
were  in  ignorance  of  the  fact,  and  nightly  looked  for 
the  coming  of  the  friendly  boats. 

On  the  4th  of  September,  Wolfe's  illness  again 
fastened  itself  upon  him,  and,  though  he  recovered 
somewhat  by  the  7th,  it  was  his  opinion  the  end  was 
not  far  distant  with  him,  should  he  escape  the  bullets 
of  his  enemy.  But  this  solemn  conviction  did  not  dis- 
courage him.  from  carrying  out  his  daring  purpose.  It 
rained  for  two  days  and  nights  in  succession,  making  it 
uncomfortable  for  all,  but  affording  partial  concealment 
for  the  work  in  hand.  Wolfe's  ships  were  moving  back 
and  forth  upon  the  river,  worrying  the  French  by  their 
pretences  to  effect  a  landing  at  different  places.  On 
the  1 2th,  the  vessels  anchored  off  Cap  Rouge.  The 
evening  of  that  day  had  been  selected  by  Wolfe  for  his 
attack.  A  demand  had  been  made  for  a  squad  of  men 
to  lead  the  way  up  the  gully  to  overpower  the  guard. 
Twenty-four  brave  men  volunteered  to  do  whatever 
duty  was  asked  of  them.  Though  every  soldier  felt 
that  some  momentous  undertaking  was  coming,  no 
one  knew  just  what  it  was  to  be. 

The  night  selected  was  starless,  and  under  its  cover 
the  troops,  numbering  not  quite  five  thousand,  were 
ordered  to  enter  the  boats,  and  there  await  the  ebbing 
of  the  tide.  It  had  been  the  custom  for  the  vessels  to 
move  up  with  the  flow  of  the  tide,  and  back  with  its 


1 84  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

ebb.  This  was  a  part  of  the  plan  now.  The  boat  with 
the  brave  twenty-four  was  to  lead,  while  Wolfe  was  to 
follow  next  to  it. 

During  the  interval  of  waiting  the  young  com- 
mander, suffering  from  his  illness,  but  hopeful  of  vic- 
tory, took  from  a  chain  about  his  neck  a  miniature  of  a 
beautiful  young  woman  to  whom  he  was  betrothed. 
His  gaze  lingered  long  and  tenderly  over  the  sweet 
face  looking  into  his  faintly  in  the  dim  lamplight  of  the 
rough  cabin,  and  then  he  handed  it  to  a  companion,  a 
youthful  naval  officer  named  Jervis,  who  was  afterwards 
to  become  a  great  admiral,  asking  him  to  return  it  to 
the  owner,  Miss  Lowther,  adding  that  he  did  not  ex- 
pect to  live  until  another  day.  Then  he  gave  a  short 
message  for  his  mother,  and  with  thoughts  of  these, 
mother  and  sweetheart,  the  most  tender  that  sway  the 
human  heart,  he  descended  into  his  boat,  to  depart 
upon  that  errand  which  was  to  shake  an  empire  founded 
upon  a  rock,  but  whose  structure  had  become  honey- 
combed with  the  follies  of  weak  men. 

The  darkness  and  silence  of  this  midnight  jour- 
ney is  enlivened  by  the  pretty  story  of  Wolfe's  reciting 
Grays  Elegy  while  he  was  being  borne  on  the  tide,  re- 
marking to  his  companions  that  "  I  would  rather  be 
the  author  of  that  piece  than  take  Quebec."  This 
plausible  conceit,  to  a  certain  extent  illustrates  the 
peculiar  traits  of  the  British  commander,  his  moods 
of  enthusiasm,  his  love  for  good  literature,  and  clear- 
cut  courage  that  never  faltered  under  the  most  trying 


When  Quebec  Fell  185 

situations.  No  less  authority  than  Sir  Walter  Scott 
seems  first  to  have  given  the  legend  prominence  by  re- 
lating it  as  it  was  told  to  him  by  one  who  overheard  the 
speech.  But  as  nearly  three-fourths  of  a  century  had 
elapsed  since  that  eventful  night,  it  is  possible  that 
error  may  have  crept  in  and  that  the  incident  which 
gave  the  legend  substance  occurred  a  few  hours,  or 
even  a  day  before.  But  this  does  not  rob  the  gem  of 
its  lustre. 

The  foremost  boat,  or  rather  boats,  for  it  took  two 
to  convey  the  vanguard  of  this  expedition,  was  in  com- 
mand of  Lieutenant-Colonel  Howe,  who  in  later  years 
became  a  prominent  English  general  during  the  Ameri- 
can Revolution.  In  this  boat  was  also  an  officer  of  the 
Highlanders  who  could  speak  French  perfectly.  Be- 
hind these  followed  the  others,  in  darkness  and  in  sil- 
ence, while  they  were  carried  swiftly  down  to  Anse  du 
Foulon,  from  that  night  known  as  Wolfe's  Cove. 

As  the  boat  came  abreast  of  the  Palisades  a  sharp- 
voiced  sentry  challenged:  ''  Qui  vivef  '' France^' v^- 
plied  the  Highlander,  promptly.  "  Quel  regiment  est  ce 
Ictf  '' De  la  Reine''  responded  the  quick-witted 
officer,  naming  a  French  regiment  he  knew  was  at  Cap 
Rouge.  They  were  allowed  to  keep  on  amid  a  silence 
that  none  dared  to  break.  A  little  lower  down  they 
were  hailed  again,  and  as  before  the  shrewd  officer 
made  replies  that  were  satisfactory.  This  time  he 
boldly  declared  they  were  French  provision  boats,  and 
that  silence  must  be  maintained. 


i86  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Upon  reaching  the  cove  the  troops  hastily  landed, 
and  the  foremost  began  the  ascent  of  the  bank,  led  by 
the  Highlander.  More  frequently  than  otherwise  great 
victories  are  the  result  largely  of  some  blunder  upon  the 
part  of  the  loser.  Montcalm  may  not  have  blundered, 
but  it  so  happened  that  at  this  very  hour,  four  a.m., 
while  the  twenty-four  daring  climbers  were  ascending  to 
the  Plains  of  Abraham,  the  officer  in  command  of  this 
pass  at  Anse  du  Foulon  was  one  Vergor,  who  had  been 
once  tried  for  cowardice,  and  who  had  escaped  only 
through  the  influence  of  Vaudreuil  and  Bigot.  He  may 
not  have  been  a  coward,  but  he  was  asleep  in  his  tent ! 
Some  say  he  had  been  bribed  by  the  English,  but  a 
bribed  man  would  never  sleep  under  those  circum- 
stances. Be  that  as  it  may,  the  sentinels  were  easily 
surprised,  and  Vergor  was  seized  as  he  sprang  from  his 
bunk.  The  signal  was  given  for  the  others  to  follow,  and 
in  a  minute  Wolfe,  though  weak  and  faint,  stood  at  last  at 
the  top.  The  breaking  day  disclosed  his  army  arrayed 
along  the  summit.  With  a  portion  of  the  French  forces 
above  him  at  Cap  Rouge  under  De  Bougainville,  and 
the  main  body  under  Montcalm  at  Quebec,  now  fairly 
between  the  two,  there  was  no  alternative  save  to  push 
forward  to  victory  or  death. 

Two  small  pieces  of  artillery  had  been  dragged  up, 
and  with  these  Wolfe  advanced  to  the  edge  of  the  Plains 
of  Abraham,  within  a  mile  of  Quebec,  though  this 
could  not  be  seen  on  account  of  an  intervening  ridge. 
The  Plains,  so  called  for  one  Maitre  Abraham,  a  noted 


When  Quebec  Fell  187 

river  pilot  in  former  days  who  had  owned  the  land, 
were  covered  with  tall  grass,  broken  here  and  there 
with  patches  of  corn  and  clumps  of  bushes.  As  Wolfe 
drew  up  his  line  upon  this  broad  plateau,  flanked  on  the 
one  side  by  the  high  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  on  the 
other  by  the  meadows  of  the  sleepy  St.  Charles,  and 
fronted  by  the  fortifications  of  Quebec  commanding  the 
surrounding  country,  he  passed  along  encouraging  his 
soldiers  with  spirited  words  to  strike  that  day  for  love 
and  honour  of  Old  England,  and  theirs  would  be  the 
glory.  He  had  seemed  to  throw  off  his  recent  illness, 
though  he  looked  little  like  the  hero,  with  his  tall,  ema- 
ciated figure,  his  sloping  shoulders,  small  head,  reced- 
ing forehead,  met  by  red  hair  cut  short,  a  long,  pointed 
nose,  and  pallid  skin,  but  there  was  the  fire  of  a  martial 
spirit  in  the  flashing  eyes,  and  the  inspiration  of  un- 
bounded courage  in  his  voice. 

At  this  moment  a  breathless  courier  was  informing 
Montcalm  of  his  peril,  and  immediately  there  was  lively 
effort  put  forth  to  prepare  for  the  enemy.  The  regi- 
ments were  ordered  up  from  the  trenches  at  Beauport. 
Help  was  summoned  from  the  garrisons  of  the  Lower 
Town,  but  these  refused  to  leave  their  post.  Other 
regiments,  owing,  it  is  said,  to  Vaudreuil's  influence, 
were  not  on  hand.  But  with  about  4500  men  Mont- 
calm formed  a  line  of  battle,  and  leading  them  in  per- 
son, mounted  upon  his  magnificent  black  horse,  he  went 
forth  to  meet  his  conqueror,  knowing  that  the  fate  of 
Canada  was  to  be  decided  within  that  half -hour.     It 


i88  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

may  be  he  ought  to  have  waited,  as  some  say,  until  he 
could  have  had  a  better  understanding  with  the  gov- 
ernor; until  De  Ramesay  at  the  city  could  have  been 
persuaded  to  have  sent  him  a  dozen  pieces  instead  of 
only  three;  until  De  Bougainville  could  have  come  to 
his  aid;  until  many  things  possible  and  impossible  might 
have  happened,  but  his  destiny  and  Canada's  had  willed 
it  nay.  Every  inch  a  commander  born  to  gain  victories 
did  he  look,  while  he  addressed  a  few  words  to  his 
followers.  "As  he  brandished  his  sword  in  gesticulat- 
ing to  them,  the  wide  sleeves  of  his  coat  fell  away  so  as 
to  disclose  the  white  linen  of  his  wristband,"  said  one  of 
his  soldiers  in  after  years. 

With  greater  calmness  the  British  commander  and 
his  soldiers  in  their  red  uniforms  awaited  this  desperate 
charge.  When  the  French  were  within  forty  yards  they 
suddenly  found  themselves  confronted  by  a  human  wall 
thrown  across  their  pathway.  The  sharp  command,  the 
rattle  of  musketry,  a  sheet  of  flame,  and  the  ranks  of 
the  oncoming  army  were  riven.  The  French  fought 
bravely,  answering  volley  for  volley,  but  while  they 
strove  they  staggered  back,  enveloped  in  smoke.  Swift 
to  follow  up  his  advantage,  Wolfe  gave  the  command 
to  charge,  himself  leading  his  men.  Amid  wild  cheering 
the  British  regulars,  the  Highlanders,  and  the  New  Eng- 
land Rangers  under  Captain  Stark  sprang  forward,  and 
the  tide  of  battle  was  stemmed  if  not  turned.  Wolfe's 
wrist  was  shattered  by  a  bullet.  Binding  it  with  a 
handkerchief,   he    kept   on,   only   to   receive   a  second, 


When  Quebec  Fell  189 

and  then  a  third  shot.  The  last  entered  his  breast,  and 
he  sank  to  the  ground,  unable  to  go  farther.  A  lieu- 
tenant of  the  grenadiers  named  Brown  and  a  volunteer 
by  the  name  of  Henderson,  assisted  by  two  others,^ 
seeing  him  fall,  carried  him  in  their  arms  to  the  rear. 

"  Run  for  a  surgeon!  "  cried  one.  "  There  is  no  need 
of  that,"  he  answered.  "  Lay  me  down.  It 's  all  over 
with  me."  Glancing  from  the  sufferer  toward  the  scene 
of  action.  Lieutenant  Brown  exclaimed  :  "  They  run  ! 
look,  how  they  run  ! "  "  Who  run  ?  "  asked  Wolfe,  start- 
ing up  from  the  lethargy  stealing  over  him.  "  The 
enemy,  sir.  Egad,  they  are  giving  away  everywhere  ! " 
Rallying  somewhat  at  this  welcome  announcement,  he 
said:  "Go,  one  of  you,  and  tell  Colonel  Burton  to  order 
Webb's  regiment  down  to  the  Charles  River,  to  cut  off 
their  retreat  from  the  bridge."  Then  the  dying  victor, 
moving  slightly,  murmured:  "  God  be  praised!  I  will  die 
in  peace."  A  moment  later  and  the  hero  lived  in  name 
only. 

It  was  in  vain  Montcalm  tried  to  stem  the  tide  of 
retreat,  and  on  horseback  he  was  fairly  swept  toward  the 
town.  The  bullets  were  still  flying  thick  about  them  as 
they  reached  the  St.  Louis  gate,  and  one  pierced  his 
body.  He  would  have  fallen  from  his  horse,  but  two 
soldiers  held  him  in  position  until  he  had  passed  through 
into  the  town,  where  an  excited  crowd  was  anxiously 
awaiting  the  result  of  the  ominous  firing.     One  of  the 

'  I  have  reason  to  believe  that  one  of  these  was  Captain  William  Stark,  of 
the  New  England  Rangers.  See  TurnbuU's  painting  of  The  Death  of  Wolfe. 
— Author. 


I90  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

spectators,  a  woman,  who  recognised  him,  discovered 
the  blood  upon  his  white  shirt-front,  and  cried  \  ''  O  mon 
Dieu  !  mo7i  Dieu  !  le  Marquis  est  tud  !  "  "It's  nothing," 
he  repHed,  rallying  somewhat ;  "  do  not  be  grieved  for 
me,  my  good  friends."  He  was  taken  to  a  house  to  be 
treated  by  a  surgeon.  But  the  great  French  leader 
was  beyond  mortal  aid.  When  he  was  told  of  this,  he 
said :  "  I  shall  die  happy  not  to  live  to  see  the  surren- 
der of  Quebec."  Refusing  to  confer  with  De  Ramesay 
and  others,  he  gave  his  attention  to  arranging  some 
business  matters.  He  did  not  forget  to  look  after  the 
welfare  of  those  who  had  been  intrusted  to  his  care, 
and  almost  his  last  act  was  to  send  the  following  appeal 
to  the  British  commander : 

Monsieur,  the  humanity  of  the  English  sets  my  mind  at  peace 
concerning  the  fate  of  the  French  and  Canadian  prisoners.  Feel 
toward  them  as  they  have  caused  me  to  feel.  Do  not  let  them  per- 
ceive that  they  have  changed  masters.  Be  their  protector  as  I  have 
been  their  father. 

He  lived  until  morning,  quietly  breathing  his  last 
at  four  o'clock.  He  was  buried  in  a  coffin  made  of 
rough  boards  by  an  old  servitor,  on  the  morning  of  the 
14th,  his  grave  a  hollow  scooped  out  of  the  earth  under 
the  floor  of  the  Ursuline  Convent  by  a  bursting  shell, 
— a  sepulture  grand  in  its  very  simplicity,  and  befitting 
the  hero.  In  far-away  Candiac,  the  stately  home  of  the 
Montcalms,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  women  in  France 
had  awakened  from  a  night's  troubled  sleep  a  widow ; 
and  three  fair  children,  hopefully  looking  forward  to  his 


MAJOR-GENERAL  JAMES  WOLFE. 


♦ 


\ 


When  Quebec  Fell  191 

home-coming,  listened  in  vain  for  the  sound  of  his  step 
and  the  music  of  a  father's  voice. 

The  body  of  Wolfe  was  embalmed,  and  conveyed  to 
England  upon  the  gun-ship  Royal  Williaiii,  the  rejoic- 
ings over  his  great  victory  saddened  by  the  sorrow  of  his 
death.  He  was  given  sepulture  in  the  vault  of  the 
parish  church  at  Greenwich,  where  his  aged  father  had 
been  borne  only  a  few  months  before,  and  where  his 
mother  followed  six  years  later. 

Five  days  after  the  battle  De  Ramesay  formally  sur- 
rendered Quebec  to  General  Townshend,  who  had  be- 
come the  successor  of  Wolfe.  While  the  English  felt 
jubilant  over  their  conquest,  the  French  were  still  hope- 
ful, but  even  they  could  not  realise  how  near  they  were 
to  come  in  their  efforts  to  recapture  Quebec. 


Chapter  XIV 
Under  the  New  Regime 

Second  Battle  of  the  Plains — Surrender  of  Montreal — Conquest  Closes  at  Pont- 
chartrain — Result — Campaign  of  1775-76 — Fall  of  Montgomery — Arnold's 
Retreat — The  "Hungry  Year" — Heroism  of  the  Canadians  at  Chateauguay 
— Naval  Fight  on  Lake  Champlain — Victory  of  McDonough — Hard  Blow  to 
the  English — End  of  War  of  18 12-15 — Result  of  this  War  to  Canada — Im- 
portant Periods  in  History — Final  Union  of  the  Provinces. 

THE  faU  of  Montcalm  left  the  French  at  Quebec 
without  a  commander  able  to  rally  the  de- 
moralised forces.  Oh,  then  for  one  hour  of 
Frontenac !  or  that  up  from  the  dust  of  her  streets 
might  rise  the  shade  of  Champlain  !  The  weak  Vaud- 
reuil,  though  he  had  a  larger  force  than  the  English 
could  muster,  beat  a  hasty  retreat  up  the  St.  Lawrence. 
De  Levis,  who  was  alone  worthy  to  succeed  Montcalm, 
was  in  Montreal.  Fearful  that  he  might  appear  upon 
the  scene  with  superior  forces,  Townshend,  who  was 
now  in  command  of  the  British  army,  pushed  the  cam- 
paign so  vigorously  the  terrified  citizens  demanded  that 
De  Ramesay  surrender.  This  he  for  a  time  refused  to 
do.  Finally  he  consented,  and  the  flag  of  truce  was  run 
up.  Some  one  pulled  it  down.  A  second  time  it  was 
raised,  and  that  time  it  remained  until  the  hands  of  the 

conquerors  removed  it.     Townshend  proved  a  magnani- 

192 


Under  the  New  Regime  193 

mous  captor.  The  garrison  marched  out  with  full 
honours  of  war,  and  were  sent  away  to  France  at  the 
expense  of  England.  The  citizens  and  Indians  were 
promised  all  the  protection  that  could  be  given  English 
subjects,  providing  they  should  prove  loyal  to  their 
pledge.  Then  the  lilied  standard  of  France,  Xh^  fleur- 
de-lis  of  Champlain,  the  founder  of  the  city,  the  proud 
emblem  under  which  Frontenac  had  conquered,  came 
down  from  its  lofty  position,  and  in  its  stead  was  flung 
to  the  breeze  the  red  cross  of  St.  George. 

While  the  result  proved  a  decided  victory,  there  was 
a  following  interval  filled  with  unrest  and  uncertainty. 
During  the  succeeding  winter  the  English  commander 
found  himself  placed  in  greatly  straitened  circumstances. 
The  British  fleet  sailed  away  to  England,  the  command 
being  left  to  General  Murray.  First  the  rigour  of  the 
climate,  and  then  the  scarcity  of  provisions,  made  the 
situation  desperate.  To  add  to  this,  with  the  return  of 
spring  it  was  found  that  a  determined  effort  was  to  be 
made  to  recover  the  city  and  its  fortifications.  At  this 
time  famine,  climate,  and  disease,  the  outcome  of  the 
two  former,  had  reduced  the  British  forces  from  seven 
to  three  thousand  men  fit  for  duty.  Toward  the  last 
of  April  the  only  vessel  that  Murray  could  get  to  per- 
form the  errand,  the  Lawrence,  was  sent  down  the  river 
to  look  for  the  expected  fleet  from  the  homeland,  and  to 
hasten  its  coming,  while  a  small  band  of  New  England 
Rangers,  who  had  served  under  Wolfe,  were  sent  with  a 
heutenant  to  convey  to  General  Amherst,  then  stationed 


194  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

at  Lake  Ontario,  information  of  the  critical  condition  of 
the  garrison.  Unknown  to  them,  at  that  time  over  nine 
thousand  regulars  and  volunteers  were  on  their  way- 
down  the  river  from  Montreal  under  the  leadership  of 
De  Levis,  who  had  sworn  to  recapture  Quebec. 

There  are  conflictino-  accounts  as  to  the  manner  in 
which  the  British  were  apprised  of  the  coming  of  the 
enemy.  One  of  these  was  that  the  sentry  on  duty  was 
warned  of  the  coming  of  De  Levis  by  one  of  the  latter's 
officers  whom  he  rescued  from  drowning  in  the  river 
through  the  capsizing  of  his  boat,  when  all  his  men 
were  lost.  The  other,  and  better  authenticated  explana- 
tion, shows  how  the  advancing  French  were  discovered 
by  one  of  Murray's  men  stationed  at  the  outpost  at 
Ste.  Foye.  It  was  about  three  o'clock  on  the  morning 
of  April  27th,  when  General  Murray  was  aroused,  and 
the  order  "  To  arms  !"  was  immediately  given.  March- 
ing out  through  the  St.  Louis  and  St.  John  gates  he 
hastened  to  the  outpost  at  Ste.  Foye.  De  Levis  at  that 
moment  was  advancing  through  the  growth  covering  the 
lowlands  at  the  foot  of  Ste.  Foye,  and  upon  receiving  a 
sharp  cannonade,  when  he  had  expected  to  make  the 
surprise,  without  knowing  the  weakness  of  the  British 
he  quickly  fell  back,  deciding  to  outflank  the  enemy  he 
had  failed  to  take  unawares,  still  in  ignorance  of  the  fact 
that  he  had  encountered  more  than  the  regular  force 
stationed  here. 

Realising  that  he  would  be  unable  to  cope  success- 
fully with  so  large  a  force,  Murray  destroyed  his  works 


Under  the  New  Regime     *  195 

here,  and  retreated  to  the  city.  But  having  done  this 
he  quickly  decided  that  the  condition  of  the  fortifica- 
tions was  such  that  it  would  be  folly  for  him  to  stake  his 
fortune  upon  a  single  chance,  and  he  resolved  to  muster 
every  man  he  could  and  meet  the  enemy  at  the  most 
favourable  spot.  This  he  considered  to  be  the  gentle 
swell  upon  the  Plains  known  as  Les  Buttes-a-Neveu, 
where  he  ordered  his  troops  to  be  formed,  while  he  rode 
ahead  to  reconnoitre.  The  foremost  brigades  of  De 
Levis  were  then  swinging  around  toward  Sillery,  while 
the  main  body  was  coming  along  the  Ste.  Foye  road  in 
marching  order.  Without  waiting  for  the  enemy  to 
open  the  fight,  the  ambitious  Murray,  brave  to  rash- 
ness, ordered  his  troops  forward,  and,  regardless  of  the 
fact  that  he  was  outnumbered  two  to  one  by  some  of 
the  best  troops  of  Canada,  led  by  one  of  the  most 
skilful  strategists  of  the  times,  opened  fire  upon  the 
French  columns.  Then  ensued  one  of  the  most  desperate 
battles,  while  it  lasted,  ever  fought  on  Canadian  soil. 
Every  man  proved  himself  a  hero,  but  when  Murray 
had  seen  each  third  man  under  him  go  down,  he  found 
that  he  could  save  the  others  only  by  falling  back,  which 
was  defined  to  mean  by  his  grisly  veterans  "retreat." 
De  Levis  did  not  deem  it  wise  to  follow,  and  thus  the 
golden  opportunity  to  recover  New  France  to  the  French 
was  lost.  It  is  true,  anxious  months  of  siege  followed, 
and  De  Levis  played  a  losing  game  with  credit.  All  de- 
pended upon  the  arrival  of  succour  from  the  old  countries. 
Should  that  of  France  come  first,  \kv^  fleur-de-lis  would 


196  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

aofain  float  above  the  walls  of  Quebec.  In  the  midst  of 
this  suspense  a  vessel  was  sighted  coming  up  the  St. 
Lawrence,  but  she  carried  no  flag  at  her  masthead. 
Was  she  French,  or  English,  or  did  she  come  from  an- 
other port  ?  While  friends  and  foes  alike  watched  with 
feverish  interest  the  mysterious  stranger,  realising  that 
the  destiny  of  a  nation  hung  upon  the  character  of  the 
approach,  in  the  midst  of  the  suspense  the  flag  of  Eng- 
land was  run  up  the  mast !  Quebec  was  saved  to  the 
English  !  While  the  cheers  of  his  enemies  rang  on  the 
air  De  Levis  prudently  withdrew  his  fleet.  Nothing  re- 
mained for  the  French  but  a  forlorn  hope  at  Montreal. 
De  Levis  was  followed  up  the  St.  Lawrence,  in  due 
time,  by  Murray,  who  stationed  himself  a  few  miles 
below  Montreal.  At  the  same  time  Lord  Amherst, 
General  Jeffrey,  in  answer  to  the  summons  sent  him, 
started  down  the  river  from  Lake  Ontario,  as  described 
elsewhere.  Down  the  Richelieu  came  Colonel  Havi- 
land,  who  speedily  joined  Murray,  when  the  united 
forces  moved  forward,  the  latter  to  take  up  a  position 
just  below  the  French,  while  the  former  chose  his 
nearly  opposite.  About  this  time  Amherst  appeared 
before  the  western  walls  of  the  city.  The  Canadian 
militia,  foreseeing  the  ultimate  outcome,  upon  receiving 
promise  of  protection  from  the  British  deserted  De 
Levis  and  returned  to  their  scattered  homes,  thankful 
to  escape  the  toils  of  war.  This  left  the  gallant  De 
Levis  with  barely  two  thousand  regulars  under  him,  and 
he  had  no  other  alternative  than  to  surrender,  which  he 


MONTMORENCY    FALLS. 
From  a  photograph  by  Livernois,  Quebec. 


I 


Under  the  New  Regime  197 

did  on  the  8th  of  September,  1 760,  within  six  days  of  a 
year  from  the  memorable  morning  that  Wolfe  led  the 
way  to  victory  upon  the  Plains  of  Abraham.  The 
same  generous  terms  as  those  given  at  Quebec  were 
made  here.  General  Murray  was  appointed  as  the  first 
governor  under  the  new  government. 

The  closing  act  in  this  drama  of  conquest  was  yet  to 
be  played.  The  leader  intrusted  with  the  work  was 
Major  Robert  Rogers,  with  his  Rangers,  sent  by  Am- 
herst to  take  possession  of  Fort  Pontchartrain  on  the 
Detroit.  It  was  in  November,  1760,  and  in  ignorance 
of  the  capitulation  at  Montreal  the  French  commander 
here  saw  with  wonder  the  presence  of  English  troops 
where  they  had  not  dared  to  venture  before.  The  first 
summons  to  surrender  he  treated  with  disdain,  but  the 
second,  given  in  facsimile  of  the  capitulation  at  Mon- 
treal, with  an  order  from  Marquis  de  Vaudreuil  direct- 
ing the  surrender  of  the  fort,  put  a  different  phase  upon 
the  situation.  Nothino-  else  could  be  done.  The  flag:- 
staff  was  soon  bereft  of  its  fleur-de-lis,  and  made  to 
swing  to  the  breeze  the  flag  of  the  incoming  power. 
New  France  was  only  a  memory. 

Never  was  conquest  more  fortunate.  What  the 
outcome  might  have  been  in  the  valley  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence had  this  been  delayed  awhile  longer  is  vain  to 
speculate.  Let  it  be  said  to  her  honour  that  seldom  has 
fairer  treatment  been  accorded  a  vanquished  party  than 
that  England  allowed  her  new  subjects  here  in  Canada. 
In  the  words  of  one  of  her  historians : 


198  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Previous  history  affords  no  example  of  such  forbearance  and 
generosity  on  the  part  of  the  conquerors  toward  the  conquered — 
forming  such  a  new  era  in  civilised  warfare,  that  an  admiring  world 
admitted  the  claim  of  Great  Britain  to  the  glory  of  conquering  a 
people  less  from  views  of  ambition  and  the  security  of  her  colonies 
than  from  the  hope  of  improving  their  situation,  and  endowing  them 
with  the  privileges  of  freedom. 

Upon  the  other  hand,  it  was  shown  that  the  people 
who  had  borne  with  fideHty  the  duties  pertaining  to 
them  as  French  citizens  during  the  protracted  struggle 
between  the  colonies,  of  border  warfare  and  its  attend- 
ant evils,  were  capable  of  bearing  with  a  spirit  of  resig- 
nation the  humiliation  of  defeat  as  well  as  the  ^clat  of 
victory.  The  Quebec  Act  of  1774,  which  recognised 
the  French  civil  laws,  allowed  free  religious  and  civil 
rights,  and,  granting  the  official  use  of  the  language  of 
their  race,  made  them  faithful,  loyal,  and  loving  subjects. 
The  real  wellspring  of  history  is  the  homes  of  the  com- 
mon people.  It  is  here,  rather  than  in  the  stormy 
scenes  of  battle,  that  we  must  look  for  the  true  source 
of  their  success.  Here  we  find  Canada  especially  fortu- 
nate. Her  peasant  population,  which  have  ever  been 
the  filling  in  the  fabric  of  national  greatness,  has  not 
only  been  of  a  firm  texture,  but  of  lasting,  durable 
qualities. 

Despite  this  fact,  upon  the  conquest  of  the  British  a 
large  percentage  of  the  old  seigneurial  families,  unable 
to  face  the  necessity  of  owing  allegiance  to  the  flag 
which  they,  their  fathers,  and  their  fathers'  fathers  had 
spent  their  lives  in   fighting,   quietly  slipped  away  to 


Under  the  New  Reof'ime  199 


France.  The  St.  Lawrence  country  was  greatly  the 
loser  on  this  account.  To  take  their  places,  if  not  to 
fill  them,  came  the  English  immigrant,  the  Scotch  and 
the  Irish,  with  later  a  goodly  lot  of  New  Englanders 
who  had  remained  true  to  the  King  during  the  American 
Revolution. 

The  Treaty  of  Paris  of  February  10,  1763,  had 
marked  a  notable  change  in  the  situation  in  America. 
By  it  France  relinquished  her  claim  to  more  than  half 
of  the  continent.  Besides  this  she  yielded  the  territory 
of  Louisiana  to  Spain,  which  in  turn  had  given  up 
Florida.  All  that  the  descendent  power  of  Louis  XIV. 
could  now  claim  across  the  ocean  was  a  few  small 
islands  of  New  Foundland,  which  had  been  reserved 
for  fishing  stations.  Not  a  pleasant  ending  to  the 
dream  of  Champlain,  though  into  such  hands  had  his 
heritage  fallen  't  were  better  so. 

E norland  was  now  mistress  of  America,  and  inflated 
with  the  prowess  of  her  arms.  But  no  greater  statesman 
than  Montcalm  had  predicted  that  the  success  of  En- 
gland in  the  St.  Lawrence  valley  would  prove  disastrous 
to  her  power  over  the  colonies  in  the  provinces  she  had 
fostered.  Here  was  an  aofSfressive  element  of  a  different 
stamina  from  that  she  had  subdued  in  the  north.  If 
they  had  sufficient  cause  for  the  course  they  pursued  is 
not  a  matter  for  consideration  here.  When  they  re- 
belled it  was  natural  they  should  look  for  allies  among 
the  French  in  the  valley  of  the  "great  river,"  who 
they  took  for  granted  must  be  still  smarting  under  the 


200  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

pains  of  their  recent  defeat.  Their  overtures  proving 
failures,  as  described  elsewhere,  they  resolved  to  ac- 
complish by  force  of  arms  what  they  could  not  secure 
by  peaceful  means.  This  resulted  in  the  famous  attack 
upon  the  citadel  of  Quebec  under  General  Montgomery 
upon  the  morning  of  December  31,  1775,  aided  by 
Arnold  and  his  contingent. 

This  unfortunate  campaign,  unfortunate  both  from  its 
conception  and  the  death  of  General  Montgomery,  was 
one  of  the  most  heroic  and  arduous  that  American  history 
records.  Arnold,  the  first  upon  the  scene,  and  to  whom 
has  been  credited  the  daring  scheme,  though  some  say 
it  originated  with  Washington,  reached  the  valley  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  with  decimated  ranks  and  forlorn  appear- 
ance after  his  memorable  journey  up  the  Kennebec 
through  the  wilds  of  Maine,  over  "  the  terrible  carrying- 
place,"  and  down  the  Chaudiere.  Having  less  than 
half  the  men  he  had  started  with,  but  a  gallant  five 
hundred,  he  climbed  the  same  steep  path  to  the  Plains 
of  Abraham  that  Wolfe  had  followed  a  little  over  six- 
teen years  before.  The  audacious  Arnold,  parading 
his  troops,  then  demanded  the  surrender  of  the  city. 
But  the  commander  at  this  time,  Lieutenant-Governor 
Cramache,  not  to  be  caught  as  Montcalm  had  been, 
by  running  into  the  enemy's  power  in  ignorance  of 
their  numbers,  replied  with  the  voice  of  the  cannon,  and 
remained  in  his  stronghold.  Arnold  wisely  retreated 
to  Pointe  aux  Trembles,  and  sent  for  Montgomery  to 
come  to  his  assistance.     By  this  move  the  Americans 


I 


c 


4 

I 


Under  the  New  Regime  201 

commanded  the  river  above  Quebec,  and  Quebec  only 
remained  to  be  taken. 

Montgomery,  who  had  recently  been  promoted  to 
the  position  of  Major- General,  than  whom  no  more 
valiant  officer  ever  commanded  an  army,  lost  no  time 
in  starting  to  the  assistance  of  Colonel  Arnold.  He 
had  fought  under  Wolfe  at  the  battle  of  the  Plains  of 
Abraham  in  1759,  and  looked  eagerly  forward  to  an- 
other conquest  of  the  "  Gibraltar  of  America,"  with 
himself  as  leader.  He  had  good  reason  to  feel  hopeful, 
for  he  had  not  only  pushed  his  way  successfully  down 
the  Richelieu,  seizing  the  forts  of  St  John's  and  Cham- 
bly  on  his  way,  but  had  found  Montreal  an  easy  prize. 
Leaving  sufficient  of  his  troops  here  under  General 
Wooster  to  meet  any  uprising  that  might  take  place, 
he  hastened  down  the  St.  Lawrence  with  three  hundred 
men. 

With  the  English  the  situation  was  less  hopeful. 
The  command  had  devolved  upon  Sir  Guy  Carleton, 
also  a  comrade  under  Wolfe  at  Quebec  sixteen  years 
before.  The  regulars  under  him  had  been  but  a  small 
force,  and  the  French  peasants,  claiming  a  desire  to  re- 
main neutral,  had  defied  the  orders  of  the  seigneurs 
and  the  expostulations  of  the  priests  to  rally  to  the 
defence  of  the  Government.  In  this  plight  he  had  been 
unable  to  cope  with  Montgomery  at  Montreal,  and  had 
barely  escaped  by  flight  in  the  disguise  of  a  habitant. 
Upon  the  very  day  that  Arnold  withdrew  his  troops, 
Carleton  appeared  in  Quebec,  to  the  joy  of  its  loyal 


202  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

inhabitants.  Here  he  decided  to  make  a  desperate 
stand,  and  after  sifting  out  the  disaffected  "  neutrals  " 
he  had  about  four  hundred  regulars  and  a  few  more 
French  Canadian  volunteers,  upon  whom  he  could 
count  under  all  circumstances.  Besides  these,  the 
citizens  of  Quebec  stood  ready  to  assist  with  all  their 
power. 

Immediately  upon  reaching  Arnold  at  Pointe  aux 
Trembles,  General  Montgomery  resolved  upon  moving 
against  Quebec  at  once,  though  their  combined  forces 
did  not  quite  reach  one  thousand  men.  He  had  in- 
creased his  little  company  at  Sorel  with  Captain 
Lamb's  company  of  artillery,  who  had  taken  along  sev- 
eral mortars.  Colonel  Arnold,  more  perhaps  than  he, 
had  been  greatly  disappointed  in  finding  the  Canadian 
peasants  unwilling  to  join  in  the  undertaking.  He  had 
counted  with  confidence  upon  being  strongly  reinforced 
from  this  direction,  and  now  he  did  not  find  a  man  dis- 
posed to  lift  a  gun.  In  the  face  of  difficulties  which 
must  have  daunted  less  sanguine  leaders,  they  besieged 
the  stronghold.  Though  they  held  tenaciously  to  their 
purpose  for  over  a  month  nothing  was  gained. 

Toward  the  last  of  the  year  General  Montgomery 
decided  upon  an  attack  by  night,  hoping  to  surprise  the 
enemy.  Into  this  undertaking  Arnold  entered  heartily, 
and,  as  he  was  well  acquainted  with  the  situation  of  the 
defences,  the  plan  was  largely  his.  But  the  intentions 
of  the  Americans  became  known  to  the  British  through 
a  traitor,  and  Carleton  resolved  that  he  would  not  be 


Under  the  New  Regime  203 

taken  by  surprise.  The  night  selected  for  the  despe- 
rate assauh  was  the  last  of  the  year,  and  it  was  on  the 
early  morning  of  December  31,  1775,  when  the  assault- 
ing columns  moved  upon  their  stern  purpose.  A  bitter 
snow-storm  was  raging  with  Canadian  fury,  a  fitting 
nio^ht  for  such  a  wild  venture.  One  column  was  led 
along  the  St.  Charles  through  the  suburb  of  St.  Roch. 
A  terrific  fight  ensued,  during  which  Arnold  was 
wounded,  and,  the  British  getting  in  the  rear  of  his 
troops,  he  was  driven  back,  and  about  four  hundred 
men  were  captured. 

General  Montgomery  was  even  less  fortunate.  He 
sought  to  gain  the  city  by  a  narrow  defile  known  as 
Pres-de-ville,  near  what  is  now  Champlain  Street. 
Here,  with  a  precipice  running  down  to  the  river  upon 
one  hand,  and  on  the  other  the  scarped  rock  reaching 
above,  he  was  confronted  by  a  battery  of  three-pounders 
manned  by  a  squad  of  Canadians  and  British  militia- 
men. Still  believing  he  was  going  to  effect  a  surprise, 
the  American  commander  urged  his  men  forward  in 
the  face  of  the  pelting  storm,  and  the  yet  more  deadly 
hail  of  grape  that  instantly  swept  the  pass.  Mont- 
gomery fell,  with  two  officers  and  ten  of  his  brave  men, 
while  the  rest  beat  a  precipitous  retreat.  Over  the 
body  of  the  unfortunate  officer,  worthy  of  a  nobler  end, 
the  falling  snow  quickly  threw  a  white  shroud  as  if  in 
compassion  for  his  fate. 

In  the  morning  the  bodies  of  the  fallen  Americans 
were  taken  into  the  city  and  given  burial.     The  body 


204  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

of  the  leader  was  buried  with  special  honours,  and  his 
crrave  in  the  St.  Louis  bastion  was  marked  with  a  cut 
stone.  In  1818,  upon  the  desire  of  Mrs.  Montgomery, 
the  widow,  the  remains  of  General  Montgomery  were 
removed  from  their  resting-place  in  Quebec  to  New 
York,  and  there  re-interred.  Over  the  spot  where  this 
brave  American  fell  in  the  service  of  his  country,  a 
tablet  has  been  placed  bearing  this  inscription  : 

Here  Montgomery  Fell, 
December  31st,  1775. 

The  command  now  devolved  upon  Arnold,  who  main- 
tained the  siege,  or,  more  strictly  speaking,  blockade, 
until  spring.  The  Americans  had  been  reinforced,  but 
no  sooner  was  the  river  beginning  to  clear  of  ice  than 
a  British  ship  was  seen  coming  up  the  St.  Lawrence 
with  troops  to  assist  the  besieged  garrison.  Arnold 
hastily  retired.  This  retreat  was  soon  turned  into  a 
rout,  for  Carleton  gave  pursuit,  capturing  the  artillery. 
Later  an  attack  by  the  Indians  upon  the  Americans  at 
"The  Cedars,"  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  resulted  in  the 
capture  by  them  of  about  four  hundred  of  the  American 
troops,  in  May,  1776.  A  month  later  the  Americans 
undertook  the  capture  of  Three  Rivers,  but  after  a 
fierce  battle  they  were  repulsed.  Realising  by  this 
time  the  hopelessness  of  their  attempt  to  conquer 
Canada,  the  Americans  withdrew  to  Lake  Champlain, 
where  they  commanded  the  inland  gate  to  the  valley  of 


Under  the  New  Regime  205 

the  St.  Lawrence  until  the  followincr  autumn.  Both 
sides  knowing  the  importance  of  holding  this  water- 
way, each  prepared  to  battle  for  it.  The  American  fleet, 
consisting  of  fifteen  vessels  carrying  eighty-eight  guns 
and  defended  by  eight  hundred  and  eleven  men,  of 
whom  over  a  hundred  were  unfit  to  do  duty,  was  placed 
under  the  command  of  Arnold.  The  English  squadron, 
commanded  by  Carleton,  was  greatly  the  superior  both 
in  number  of  men  and  the  quality  of  its  ships,  and  Arnold 
was  forced,  after  a  gallant  resistance,  to  abandon  the 
lake  to  the  English,  when  for  over  a  third  of  a  century 
the  St.  Lawrence  valley  was  free  from  the  invading 
foot. 

Following  the  close  of  the  American  Revolution, 
which  gave  to  the  Thirteen  States  their  independence, 
the  population  of  Canada  was  greatly  increased  by  the 
Loyalists.  They  found  here  refuge  and  new  homes, 
though  only  after  severe  hardships  and  such  trying  ex- 
periences as  those  of  the  "Hungry  Year"  of  1787, 
when  even  Mother  Earth  forgot  her  children  and  left 
them  to  find  meagre  sustenance  upon  the  roots  and 
buds  of  the  wild  land.  If  there  was  plenty  of  game  in 
the  forest,  and  an  abundance  of  fish  in  the  waters,  the 
men  had  neither  powder  and  bullet  to  slay  the  one  nor 
tackle  to  catch  the  other. 

Gaunt  men  crept  about  with  poles,  striving  to  knock  down  the 
wild  pigeons  ;  or  they  angled  all  day  with  awkward,  home-made 
hooks  for  a  few  chub  or  perch  to  keep  their  families  from  starv- 
ation. In  one  settlement  a  beef-bone  was  passed  from  house  to 
house  that  each  household  might  boil  it  a  little  while  and  so  get  a 


2o6  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

flavour  in  the  pot  of  unsalted  bran  soup.  A  few  of  the  weak  and 
aged  actually  died  of  starvation  during  these  famine  months;  and 
others  were  poisoned  by  eating  noxious  roots  which  they  grubbed 
up  in  the  woods.  As  the  summer  wore  on,  however,  the  kernels  of 
wheat,  oats,  and  barley  began  to  grow  plump.  People  gathered 
hungrily  to  the  fields,  to  pluck  and  devour  the  green  heads. 
Boiled,  these  were  a  luxury  ;  and  hope  stole  back  to  the  starving 
settlements. 

With  those  who  came  from  the  States  to  swell  the 
population  of  the  St.  Lawrence  valley,  and  prove  her 
faithful  defenders  in  wars  to  follow,  were  those  old-time 
enemies,  the  Mohawks,  among  whom  rises  the  grand  fig- 
ure of  Brant.  A  little  later,  from  farther  west  came  other 
tribes  of  Amerinds,  led  by  the  heroic  chief  of  the  Shaw- 
nees,  Tecumseh,  who  fell  fighting  bravely  her  battles. 

Whatever  other  reasons  may  be  assigned,  and  there 
were  several  of  more  or  less  significance,  the  underlying 
purpose  of  the  declaration  of  the  War  of  1812  was  the 
sentiment :  "  Europe  for  France ;  the  New  World  for 
America."  This  meant  the  annexation  of  Canada  to 
the  United  States.  At  this  time  the  former  had  a  pop- 
ulation of  little  over  three  hundred  thousand,  while  the 
latter  had  nearly  eight  millions.  The  valley  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  which  included  the  region  of  the  Great 
Lakes,  from  its  geographic  position  became  the  battle- 
ground between  the  Provinces  and  the  States.  During 
the  period  when  Napoleon  was  leading  his  great  armies 
upon  Spain  and  Russia,  Great  Britain  had  all  she  could 
attend  to  on  the  continent  of  Europe,  and  so  Canada 
was  left  this  time  to  fight  the  war  of  defence  mainly 
through  her  own  efforts. 


Under  the  New  Regime  207 

Following  their  success  at  Moravian  Town,  where 
their  dusky  allies  under  the  ill-fated  Tecumseh  put  to 
shame  the  English  troops,  the  Americans  designed  to 
carry  out  a  plan  which  should  place  the  whole  of  Upper 
Canada  in  their  possession.  Two  divisions  of  the  army 
were  expected  to  co-operate  in  this  ominous  campaign. 
A  body  of  troops  comprising  about  six  thousand  men, 
under  Major-General  Hampton,  was  to  move  from  Lake 
Champlain  into  the  valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  while  a 
larger  force  of  over  eight  thousand,  under  Major-Gen- 
eral Wilkinson,  was  to  move  down  the  St.  Lawrence 
from  Lake  Ontario,  and  together  the  armies  were  to  cap- 
ture Montreal.  The  first  division  moved  promptly  to  the 
Chateauguay  River,  which  finds  its  way  into  the  St. 
Lawrence  from  the  mountain  range  of  the  same  name 
in  northern  New  York.  To  check  this,  the  English  had 
a  force  of  about  fifteen  hundred,  so  scattered  as  not  to 
be  available  at  once.  In  this  plight  De  Salaberry,  a 
veteran  in  England's  cause,  while  belonging  to  the  old 
Canadian  noblesse,  with  less  than  four  hundred  French 
Canadians  and  a  few  Highlanders,  intrenched  himself 
in  the  path  of  Hampton  and  his  troops.  The  result 
was  a  signal  triumph  for  the  valiant  De  Salaberry  and 
his  brave  followers,  who  were  specially  honoured  in  con- 
sequence by  England.  In  the  meantime.  General  Wil- 
kinson got  down  as  far  as  Cornwall,  where  he  learned 
that  Hampton  had  retreated.  Without  his  co-operation 
he  did  not  deem  it  wise  to  push  down  to  Montreal. 
Accordingly  he  went  into  winter  quarters  on  Salmon 


2o8  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

River,  thinking  to  make  up  in  part  for  his  disappoint- 
ment by  capturing  Prescott  and  Kingston.  But  a  lack  of 
provisions  obliged  him  to  fall  back  to  Plattsburg,  the 
entire  campaign  simply  giving  the  Canadians  opportun- 
ity to  concentrate  their  forces  on  the  Niagara  frontier. 
Early  in  the  spring  General  Wilkinson,  with  a  little  over 
four  thousand  men,  undertook  to  capture  the  British 
post  on  the  Richelieu  River,  held  by  Lieutenant-Colonel 
Williams,  at  the  head  of  fifteen  hundred  men,  but  he 
failed  in  this.  Losing  courage  over  his  defeats  General 
Wilkinson  soon  after  resigned  his  commission. 

The  campaign  about  Niagara,  which  brought  some 
hot  fighting  on  both  sides,  and  heavy  losses  of  men, 
particularly  at  Lundy's  Lane,  where  every  fifth  man  on 
both  sides  was  slain,  was  practically  a  series  of  drawn 
battles.  Having  defeated  the  Americans  in  their  in- 
vasion of  the  St.  Lawrence  valley,  the  English  now 
turned  their  attention  to  invading  the  country  of  the 
enemy.  Triumphant  in  Europe  over  the  powers  of 
France,  England  could  now  assist  in  the  cause  of  her 
colony.  She  sent  over  reinforcements  to  the  troops,  so 
that  on  the  3rd  of  September,  Sir  George  Prevost,  in 
command  of  fourteen  thousand  veterans,  moved  up  the 
Saranac  toward  Plattsburg.  The  militia  from  New 
York  and  Vermont  rallied  under  General  Macomb  to 
contest  this  advance,  but,  though  they  fought  nobly, 
they  could  not  stem  the  tide  of  invasion  by  so  formid- 
able a  body. 

At  the  same  time  Admiral  Downle,  with  a  force  of  a 


Under  the  New  Regime  209 

thousand  men  and  ninety-five  guns,  was  moving  up  the 
RicheHeu  with  his  fleet.  This  squadron  was  met  by 
Commodore  McDonough,  with  a  force  of  a  Httle  over 
eight  hundred  men  and  eighty-six  guns.  Then  followed 
one  of  the  most  sanguinary  battles  of  the  war,  resulting 
in  victory  for  the  gallant  McDonough.  The  brave 
Englishman,  Admiral  Downie,  was  killed,  and  all  of 
his  ships  were  sunk  or  captured.  Dismayed  by  this  de- 
feat of  the  English  fleet,  Prevost  retreated  precipitately 
from  the  scene,  greatly  to  the  chagrin  of  his  army,  and 
thus  the  English  invasion  ended  even  more  disastrously 
than  that  of  the  Americans.  The  fighting  was  now 
turned  toward  the  south,  resulting  in  Jackson's  victory 
at  New  Orleans,  and  it  could  be  said  at  last  that  the 
revolution  of  the  colonists  was  fully  consummated. 

The  result  of  this  war  was  particularly  beneficial  to 
Canada  in  one  respect  at  least.  It  had  tended  to  solid- 
ify the  elements  composing  its  population  as  no  term 
of  peace,  for  many  times  that  number  of  years,  could 
have  done.  The  French  militia  had  fought  nobly  in 
defence  of  their  homeland,  and  no  English  or  Scotch 
had  shown  greater  valour  within  her  gates.  If  paid  for 
dearly,  the  prize  was  worth  the  sacrifice,  and  from  this 
time  the  doubt  of  sincerity  and  loyalty  was  lifted  from 
the  colonists  of  the  St.  Lawrence  valley. 

The  history  of  Canada  from  this  period  has  been 
chequered  with  a  few  disturbing  incidents,  one  or  two 
of  which  have  threatened  serious  results,  but  her  states- 
men have  usually  shaped  her  course  in  peaceful  waters, 


2IO  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

and  on  the  whole  she  has  progressed  steadily  and  with 
credit.  One  of  the  most  important  periods  since  the 
conquest  was  during  the  division  of  the  country  into 
two  provinces  in  1791.  The  population  at  this  time 
was  120,000  in  Lower  Canada,  and  only  10,000  in 
Upper  Canada.  In  1826,  the  "  Company  of  Canada" 
was  incorporated  with  a  capital  of  one  million  pounds 
sterling,  for  the  express  purpose  of  peopling  the  Can- 
adian wilds.  In  four  years,  1 828-1831,  it  is  claimed 
that  over  150,000  settlers  founded  homes  within  her 
borders.  This  time  has  been  called  the  "  Period  of 
the  Great  Immigration."  With  its  great  good  to 
Canada,  the  limits  of  whose  benefit  cannot  be  placed, 
this  movement  brought  a  grievous  misfortune  in  the 
form  of  the  Asiatic  cholera,  which  came  with  a  ship-load 
of  immigrants  from  Dublin  in  the  summer  of  1832. 
Started  at  one  of  the  islands  below  Quebec,  this  dread 
scourge  could  not  be  held  within  bounds,  and  it  swept 
with  horrible  devastation  up  the  valley  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, until  checked  by  cold  weather.  Again  the  fol- 
lowing summer  it  broke  out,  though  with  less  loss  of 
life. 

In  1828  there  was  to  be  seen  evidence  of  the  un- 
easiness of  the  people  over  the  political  situation,  when 
a  petition  was  signed  in  Lower  Canada  by  87,000 
persons,  remonstrating  against  the  distribution  of  public 
patronage  and  the  illegal  application  of  the  money, 
and  of  the  Trade  Act  of  the  Imperial  Parliament.  The 
sequel  to   this   came   ten    years  later,    in    1840,  when 


Under  the  New  Regime  211 

the  British  inhabitants,  angered  by  Lord  Elgin's  sanc- 
tion of  the  RebelHon  Losses  Bill,  burned  the  Parliament 
building  and  made  a  demand  for  a  peaceful  separation 
from  the  old  country.  The  outcome  of  this  animated 
struggle  was  the  triumph  of  reform,  and  the  union  of 
the  two  provinces,  which  had  been  estranged  for  half  a 
century. 


ii 


Chapter  XV 
The  Mysterious  Saguenay 

Tadousac  of  Historic  Interest — First  Mission  Here — The  Old  Church — The  Fur- 
Trade — The  Cavern  River — Sixty  Miles  of  Mountain  Walls — Ha  Ha  Bay — 
Chicoutimi — Lake  St.  John — "  The  Grand  Discharge  " — Falls  of  Ouiatchouan 
— Cape  Eternity. 

IF  Gaspe  can  lay  an  uncertain  claim  to  being  the 
older  settlement,  Tadousac  has  the  positive  honour 
of  being  the  first  French  station  established  upon 
the  St.  Lawrence  from  which  evolved  a  permanent 
town,  where  trading  posts  were  maintained  in  the  early 
stages  of  exploration.  The  link  which  connects  it  to 
those  trying  days,  with  a  deep  feeling  of  veneration,  is 
a  little  church,  still  standing,  the  first  that  was  built  in 
Canada. 

The  natural  features  have  changed  so  little  since 
Champlain's  visit,  in  1603,  that  his  description  can  be 
quoted  : 

Le  diet  port  de  Tadoussac  est  petit,  oil  il  ne  pourroit  que  dix  ou 
douze  vaisseaux  ;  viais  il  y  a  I'eau  asses  a  de  I  'Est,  a  Fabry  de  la  ditte 
Riviere  de  Saguenay,  le  long  d  'line  petite  Afontaigne  gut  est  presque 
couple  de  la  mer.  Le  reste  ce  sont  Montaignes  haultes  elev^es  oil  il  y  a 
peu  de  terre,  sinon  rockers  et  sables  remplis  de  bois  de  pins,  cyprez, 
sapins  et  quclqiies  nianih'es  d'arbres  de  peu.  II  y  a  un  petit  estangy 
proche  du  dit  port,  renfenne  de  Montaignes  couvertes  de  bois. 

212 


The  Mysterious  Saguenay  213 

The  said  port  of  Tadoussac  is  small,  and  could  hold  only  ten  or 
twelve  vessels  ;  but  there  is  water  enough  to  the  east,  sheltered  by 
the  said  River  of  Saguenay,  along  a  little  mountain  which  is  very 
nearly  cut  in  two  by  the  sea.  For  the  rest  there  are  mountains  of 
high  elevation,  where  there  is  little  soil,  except  rocks  and  sands 
filled  with  wood  of  pines,  cypresses,  spruces  and  some  species  of 
undergrowth.  There  is  a  pond  near  the  said  port,  inclosed  by 
mountains  covered  with  wood. 

As  we  enter  the  realm  of  sombre  attractiveness,  the 
inky  hue  of  the  water  of  the  dark  Saguenay  is  seen  in 
marked  contrast  to  the  clear  flood  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Tadousac,  its  warder  for  a  period  older  than  history,  has 
played  an  important  part  in  the  development  of  Canada 
as  well  as  this  vicinity,  since  that  distant  day  when  Cartier 
was  first  lured  hither  by  the  wonder  stories  of  his  dusky 
pilots.  From  its  very  position  it  became  the  original 
post  for  trade  with  the  aboriginal  hunters,  who  found 
the  river  their  way  of  entrance  from  the  solitude  beyond 
the  surrounding  mountains.  To-day,  only  the  rem- 
nants of  the  Montagnais  roam  the  interior,  gaining  a 
precarious  existence  where  their  ancestors,  with  a 
sprinkling  of  French,  went  in  search  of  furs  and  pelts, 
often  falling  victims  to  privations  and  hardships 
which  made  their  earnings  dear.  As  has  been  shown, 
all  through  the  old  rigiriie  this  region  figured  conspicu- 
ously in  the  output  of  pelts  and  the  fisheries. 

Tadousac  has  also  another  phase  of  history,  if  less 
profitable.  As  early  as  161 5,  only  four  years  after  the 
coming  of  the  pioneer  of  his  faith,  a  little  band  of 
Recollets  landed  here  for  the  avowed  pious  purpose  of 
overcoming  the   baneful  influences  of  the  evil   spirits 


214  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

that  were  supposed  to  have  their  abode  on  that  forbid- 
ding point  of  rock  Champlain  aptly  christened  La 
Pointe  de  Tours  des  Diables. 

This  attempt  proving  unsuccessful  in  more  ways 
than  one,  it  was  repeated  in  1647  by  the  brave  Jesuit 
Pere  Duquen,  and  still  a  third  and  more  satisfactory 
trial  was  made  by  Father  Albanel  in  1679,  when  he  and 
young  De  St.  Simon  actually  penetrated  the  unexplored 
regions,  going  as  far  north  as  Hudson  Bay.  To  the 
heroic  Pierre  Chauvin,  an  associate  with  Pontgrave,  as 
we  have  seen,  belongs  the  credit  of  first  trying  to  estab- 
lish the  Catholic  faith  among  the  natives,  he  and  some 
of  his  brave  followers  spending  the  winter  of  1 599-1600 
here,  suffering  terribly  from  cold  and  hunger. 

By  this  time  it  had  dawned  upon  the  active  French 
mind  that  the  true  source  of  wealth  from  the  Saguenay 
lay  not  in  mines  of  gold  and  diamonds,  which  had  been 
such  potent  factors  in  guiding  the  earlier  explorers, 
but  in  the  abundance  of  fur-bearing  animals  existing  in 
the  interior.  So,  just  as  Yermak,  the  discoverer  of 
Siberia,  and  his  followers,  discovered  in  the  sable  and  kin- 
dred animals  a  profitable  revenue  in  that  inhospitable 
clime,  so  Pontgrave  and  his  successors  found  the  beaver 
and  its  associate  animals  the  true  source  of  income  from 
the  broken  wilds  of  Canada.  Straightway  huge  com- 
panies were  formed,  and  with  remarkable  indifference 
to  the  exact  boundary  of  their  domains,  seventy  thou- 
sand miles  of  area,  reaching  from  Les  Eboulements 
to  the  Moisic  River,  three  thousand  miles  distant,  and 


I 


The  Mysterious  Saguenay  215 

northward  to  the  highlands  of  Hudson  Bay  district, 
was  leased  for  twenty-one  years.  A  little  over  forty 
years  later  we  find  this  tract  of  country  given  over  to  a 
body  of  leading  bourgeois  then  in  the  country.  This 
generous  act  did  not  seem  to  be  more  lasting  than  many 
of  the  other  gifts  and  counter-gifts  of  that  changeful 
period,  for  sixteen  years  later,  1658,  Sieur  Demaure  ob- 
tained from  the  French  Government  the  first  regular 
lease,  and  a  survey  was  soon  after  ordered,  though  this 
was  not  carried  into  effect  until  1732. 

While  the  Saguenay  district  was  looked  upon  during 
the  French  dominion  with  a  greater  degree  of  professed 
knowledge  than  the  unexplored  country  lying  to  the 
north  of  the  great  river  between  Quebec  and  Montreal, 
in  reality  this  conception  was  based  upon  the  most  vague 
hearsay  evidence.  Under  the  command  of  those  who 
were  reaping  a  rich  harvest  from  its  wilderness  of  ignor- 
ance, it  was  business  policy  to  guard  well  its  secrets,  to 
throw  over  its  solitude  a  shield  of  silence  as  impene- 
trable and  unbroken  as  the  primeval  shadows,  drawn 
like  a  curtain  over  its  rugged  features.  This  was  the 
more  easily  done  through  the  assistance  of  Nature  her- 
self, who,  in  one  of  her  wildest  moods,  had  flung  at  the 
gateway  rapids  that  only  the  bravest  dared  enter,  and 
reared  over  them  rocky  bulwarks  that  gave  an  air  of 
gloom  and  oppression  which  few  cared  to  meet. 

Thus  a  few  hundred  pounds  of  revenue  to  the  Gov- 
ernment, and  no  one  outside  of  the  pale  of  this  se- 
cret dreamed  of  the  great  resources  lying  beyond  the 


2i6  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

barriers  until  in  1820  an  investigation  disclosed  the  facts 
in  the  situation.  Suddenly  the  abundance  of  the  forest, 
the  fertility  of  the  soil,  the  stores  of  the  mines,  the 
loaf  leavened  with  a  climate  hitherto  believed  to  have 
been  impossible,  awakened  the  people  to  its  possibilities. 
In  1837,  upon  the  expiration  of  the  lease  of  the  Hud- 
son Bay  Company,  a  swift  transformation  began.  Ener- 
getic colonists  swarmed  into  the  territory  ;  hundreds  of 
homes  were  formed  in  the  wilderness.  In  an  incredibly 
short  time  the  isolated  trading  posts  of  the  fur-traders  be- 
came thriving,  bustling  centres  of  population.  In  this 
way,  the  ancient  prophecy  was  solved,  and  the  Saguenay 
became  in  truth  the  stone  gateway  to  an  Eden  lying 
within. 

An  episode  that  never  fades  from  the  memory  is 
one's  first  ascent  of  the  Saguenay, — the  cavern  river,  the 
Styx, — as  dark  and  dreary  to-day  as  it  was  when  the 
imperious  Roberval  tried  to  penetrate  its  mysterious 
realm,  remaining  so  long  to  solve  its  secret.  The  frown 
that  greets  him  at  the  gate ;  the  air  of  mystery  that 
invests  the  distance  ;  the  solitude  that  overhangs  the 
way  :  these  rival  powers  combat  with  each  other  to  stop 
his  entrance  and  to  lure  him  ahead.  The  result  is  a 
disappointment,  or  is  it  perplexity  ?  You  may  have 
ascended  the  Hudson,  and  gazed  with  rapt  admiration 
upon  its  palisades,  upon  its  rocky  northern  banks,  upon 
its  constant  charms  ;  and  here  you  meet — what  ?  You 
may  have  passed  the  castled  banks  of  Europe's  grand 
old    river ;    you    find    yourself    comparing    this    to  the 


I 


The  Mysterious  Saguenay  217 

ancient  Rhine  as  a  block  of  stone  in  the  sculptor's  hand 
in  the  first  stage  of  his  chiselling.  You  may  have  come 
fresh  from  the  dazzling  streams  of  old  Norland,  whose 
short  rivers  run  brief  but  glorious  careers  ;  you  find 
your  attention  here  repelled  rather  than  held.  It  is  so 
with  some  scenes.  The  beholder  is  overawed  by  his 
environments,  and  he  reels  back  with  his  senses  dazed. 
Then,  as  he  appreciates  better  the  masterful  display  of 
Nature,  he  feels  gradually  stealing  over  him  the  unseen 
forces  which  chain  him  and  imprison  his  very  soul.  It 
is  this  feeling  the  tourist  experiences  upon  entering  the 
templed  hills  of  Nikko,  Japan,  but  before  he  leaves  the 
sacred  mountain  he  finds  its  grandeur  indelibly  fixed 
upon  his  mind.  It  is  so  with  the  Saguenay,  and  he 
wonders  that  he  had  not  felt  this  before.  Then  he 
begins  to  feel  that  there  is  an  infinity  and  grandeur, 
a  reach  of  distance,  a  solemnity  of  height  he  had  not 
realised.  Allow  me  to  improve  upon  my  narrative  by 
quoting  the  vivid  description  of  another,  who  declares 
that 

by  degrees  the  immensity  and  majesty  assert  themselves.  As  an 
abrupt  turn  brings  the  steamer  close  in  ashore,  you  realise  that  the 
other  bank  is  a  mile  away,  aye,  two  miles  distant,  and  that  the  black 
band  at  the  base  of  the  mountains,  which  roll  away  one  beyond  the 
other,  is  in  truth  the  shadowed  face  of  a  mighty  cliff,  rising  sheer 
from  the  water's  edge,  like  that  which  now  towers  nearly  two 
thousand  feet  above  you.  There  is  an  indescribable  grandeur  in 
the  very  monotony  of  the  interminable  succession  of  precipice  and 
gorge,  of  lofty  bluff  and  deep-hewn  bay  ;  no  mere  monotony  of 
outline,  for  every  bend  of  the  river  changes  the  pictures  in  the 
majestic  panorama  of  hills,  water,  and  sky,  and  every  rock  has  its 
individuality  ;  but  the  overwhelming  reiteration  of  the  same  grand 


2i8  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

theme  with  infinite  variety  of  detail,  till  the  senses  are  overpowered 
by  the  evidences  of  the  mighty  force — force  which  you  know,  as 
soon  as  you  see  those  grim  masses  of  syenite  split  and  rent  by 
upheaval,  seamed  and  scarred  by  icebergs,  was  once  suddenly, 
irresistibly  active,  but  has  now  lain  dormant  for  ages  of  ages. 
There  is  the  inevitable  sternness  of  the  manifestation  of  great 
power,  and  this  effect  is  heightened  by  the  transparency  of  the 
atmosphere,  which  allows  no  softening  of  the  clear-cut  lines,  and 
heightens  their  bold  sweep  by  intense  shadows  sharply  defined. 
There  is  no  rich  foliage  ;  forest  fires  have  swept  and  blackened 
the  hill-tops  ;  a  scanty  growth  of  sombre  firs  and  slender  birches 
replaces  the  lordly  pines  that  once  crowned  the  heights,  and  strug- 
gles for  a  foothold  along  the  sides  of  the  ravines  and  on  the  ledges  of 
the  cliffs,  where  the  naked  rock  shows  through  the  tops  of  the  trees. 
The  rare  signs  of  life  only  accentuate  the  lonely  stillness.  A  few 
log-houses  on  an  opportune  ledge  that  overhangs  a  niche-like  cove, 
a  shoal  of  white  porpoises  gambolling  in  the  current,  a  sea-gull 
circling  overhead,  a  white  sail  in  the  distance,  and  a  wary  loon, 
whose  mocking  call  echoes  from  the  rocks, — what  are  they  in  the 
face  of  these  hills,  that  are  the  children  of  the  mighty  landsmith 
whose  forge  fires  have  not  yet  burned  out  and  the  stroke  of  whose 
hammer  is  still  heard  at  intervals  among  the  hills  of  the  north  ! 

We  follow  sixty  miles  of  this  awe-inspiring  pas- 
sage— sixty  miles  of  majesty,  calm  bays,  rippling 
currents,  giant  cliffs  cut  in  solid  rock,  solitude  and 
loneliness,  waterfalls  veiled  in  mists  that  hang  over 
them  like  silver  threads,  through  mountain  walls  that 
are  fit  portals  to  the  scenes  that  lie  beyond,  vista  upon 
vista  of  country  dotted  with  hamlets,  and  we  are  told 
that  the  bay  whose  fame  we  had  heard  sung  before  we 
started  lies  before  us.  We  laugh  in  our  feeling  of 
relief  from  the  solitude  we  have  left  behind,  as  the  first 
explorers  did,  and  in  the  echo  that  comes  back  from 
the  rocky  hills,  we  find  its  name,  "  Ha  Ha  Bay."     It 


The  Mysterious  Saguenay  219 

is  nine  miles  long  and  six  miles  wide,  in  reality  an  un- 
filled waterway  leading  from  the  interior.  We  see 
ample  evidence  of  this  in  the  rich  alluvial  deposits. 
Another  relic  of  the  past,  Lake  Kinogama,  we  are  told 
lies  about  twenty  miles  to  the  west,  a  sullen  depth  of 
black  water  extending  for  fifteen  miles,  with  a  width  of 
only  half  a  mile  and  a  depth  of  a  thousand  feet. 

Ha  Ha  Bay,  quite  as  appropriately  called  Grand 
Bay,  is  really  a  breathing-place  in  this  vast  amphi- 
theatre of  mountains,  though  the  gloom  of  the  lower 
regions  is  not  wholly  shaken  off.  As  we  resume  our 
course  we  realise  that  the  land  is  made  up  from 
the  deposits  of  some  mighty  stream  in  the  past,  that 
which  we  are  following  being  a  shadow  of  its  departed 
greatness.  The  end  of  steamboat  navigation  is  Chicou- 
timi,  which,  unlike  Tadousac,  does  not  conceal  its  light 
under  a  bushel.  It  stands  upon  a  prominent  summit, 
and  the  tall  spire  of  its  church  is  the  first  sight  to  greet 
the  eye,  as  the  steamer  glides  along  the  smooth  river 
above  the  narrows,  where  those  stern  sentinels  of  the 
waterway.  Cap  Quest  and  Cap  Est,  look  down  with 
searching  grimness.  The  name  of  the  town  is  said  to 
be  derived  from  the  Cree  expression,  ''  Ishkotimew^' 
which  means  "  up  to  here  the  water  is  deep." 

Chicoutimi  is  the  great  lumber-yard  of  the  north. 
This  timber  has  been  brought  down  chiefly  by  the 
rapid  upper  Saguenay,  portage  roads  connecting  its 
source,  Lake  St.  John,  with  the  trading  posts  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company.     The  town  presents  a  pictur- 


2  20  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

esque  appearance.  Its  cottages  are  conspicuous  for 
their  gabled  roofs,  often  covered  with  birch  bark,  which 
gives  them  at  a  distance  a  resemblance  to  stucco-work. 
The  yards — and  every  one  has  a  small  plot — are  made 
cheerful  by  several  varieties  of  annuals,  asters,  larkspurs, 
marigolds,  and  zinnias,  all  in  their  brightest  hues,  while 
the  doors  are  framed  in  with  climbing  bean  vines,  in 
their  flowering  season  radiant  with  crimson  blossoms. 

It  was  here  that  an  adventurous  Jesuit  missionary 
established  a  pioneer  mission  that  afterwards  became 
a  trading  post  for  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  building 
as  early  as  1670  his  chapel  of  cedar-wood  noted  for  its 
perfume  and  durability.  Fifty  years  later  another  was 
built.  Both  are  now  covered  by  mounds  of  earth,  and 
surrounded  by  a  fence  to  protect  them  from  relic 
hunters. 

The  Chicoutimi  River  turns  over  its  flood  to  the 
Saguenay,  after  a  descent  of  nearly  five  hundred  feet 
in  seventeen  miles.  It  is  the  outlet  of  Lake  Kinogama, 
already  mentioned.  Among  the  carrying-places  at  the 
rapids  of  this  turbulent  stream  is  one  known  as  Poi'tage 
de  r Eiifant,  so  called  in  commemoration  of  the  mirac- 
ulous escape  of  an  Indian  child  that  was  carried  over 
the  falls  of  fifty  feet  in  a  canoe  without  being  injured. 

Chicoutimi  has  its  rival  in  the  village  of  Ste.  Anne, 
perched  recklessly  on  an  opposite  bluff,  where  it  com- 
mands on  one  hand  a  long,  beautiful  view  of  the 
descending  river,  on  the  other  looks  upward  toward  its 
source  thirty-five  miles  distant.     The  rapid  stream  is 


The  Mysterious  Saguenay  221 

as  large  at  its  starting-point  as  it  is  here.      Possibly  it 
has  lost  something  of  its  volume  in  its  fretful  passage. 

Once  the  rocky  barriers  of  the  Saguenay  are  passed  the 
new-comer  finds  himself  in  a  country  which  he  had  not 
expected,  where  many  prosperous  hamlets  have  sprung 
up,  and  where  there  is  room  for  many  more — a  country 
drained  by  a  network  of  rivers.  Among  the  gems  of 
inland  seas.  Lake  St.  John,  about  forty  miles  in  diam- 
eter and  nearly  round  in  shape,  is  the  natural  reservoir 
of  one  of  the  grandest  water  systems  to  be  found  on 
the  continent.  This  lake  is  the  magnet  sought  from 
the  north-east  by  the  stately  Pribonca,  the  outlet  of 
three  great  ponds ;  from  the  southland,  reaching  away 
toward  Quebec,  comes  Metabetchouan,  with  its  offer- 
ings from  a  silvery  chain  of  lakelets  ;  on  the  north-west 
winds  the  Ashuapmouchouan  ;  from  the  north,  the 
Mistassini  draws  down  its  stony  descents  the  great 
volume  of  Lake  Mistassini,  as  large  as  Ontario.  Until 
recently  Lake  St.  John  was  embowered  in  the  heart  of 
a  great  wilderness,  composed  of  pines,  oaks,  and  other 
hardy  woods  forming  a  band  of  forest  across  the  con- 
tinent in  the  same  parallel  of  latitude  that  strikes  the 
upper  portion  of  the  State  of  Washington.  If  robbed 
of  its  forest  mantle,  its  forty  rivers  that  feed  it,  three 
of  them  as  large  as  its  outlet,  remain,  showing  the 
plainer  upon  the  broad  plateaux  of  country  for  their 
undress.  The  blue  fringe  of  mountains  still  lingers  in 
the  distance,  and  on  its  rolling  flood  repose  its  purple 
islands.     As  long  as  waters  run,  the  dazzling  whirlpools 


2  22  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

that  toss  milk-white  foam  high  in  the  air  will  continue 
to  glorify  the  "grand  discharge"  at  the  narrow  outlet, 
while  over  all  will  float  the  white  veil  of  Ouiatchouan, 
as  this  mad  stream  takes  at  one  leap  a  fall  of  three 
hundred  feet. 

There  are  really  two  Saguenays :  the  one  seen 
under  the  northern  moon  and  the  stars  being  cold,  dark, 
and  forbidding ;  but  the  same  rocks  and  clefts,  seen 
under  the  breaking  light  of  a  new  day,  present  a  milder 
aspect.  The  crimson  of  early  morning  or  the  gold  of 
sunset  lights  up  like  oriflambs  of  grandeur  the  mighty 
pillars  of  the  square,  massive  walls,  and  send  down  to 
the  water's  edge  legions  of  dancing  sprites  in  bright 
and  orange  hues.  The  unseemly  feature  to  him  who 
looks  for  the  sunlight  and  the  glory  are  the  burnt  for- 
ests, whose  naked  yeomanry  rattle  their  skeleton  arms, 
while  they  hover  grimly  above  him  like  hosts  of  departed 
greatness,  lingering  for  a  time  to  mourn  over  nature's 
loss,  fit  warders  of  such  a  region  of  solitude. 

The  climax  of  this  awe-inspiring  scenery  is  reached 
at  Trinity  Bay,  where  the  stupendous  height  of  Cape 
Trinity  frowns  down  upon  the  intruder,  a  bare  wall  of 
limestone  that  towers  nearly  two  thousand  feet  into 
mid-air.  Its  frowning  brows  thrust  out  three  hundred 
feet  over  the  water,  give  the  beholder  a  dread  lest  it 
tumble  upon  him.  Rent  asunder  by  some  far-distant 
glacial  power,  the  great  column  is  really  made  up  of 
three  sections  so  placed  that  at  first  sight  they  look 
like   huge    steps  leading  to  a  mighty  flight    of  stairs, 


OUIATCHOUAN  FALLS. 


1 


The  Mysterious  Saguenay  223 

such  a  ladder  as  the  ancient  Titan,  warring  here  against 
the  elements,  might  be  expected  to  climb  in  his  ascent 
to  strive  with  the  gods  for  a  supremacy. 

In  marked  contrast  to  this  gloomy  giant  of  three  in 
one — a  Trinity — stands  Cape  Eternity,  within  a  hund- 
red feet  as  high  as  its  sombre  brother,  but  clothed  in 
a  warm  vesture  from  foot  to  crown,  and  looking  calm 
and  peaceful.  Wrapped  in  never-fading  vestments 
drawn  closely  about  its  huge  body,  well  may  it  defy 
the  storms  of  this  wintry  region  for  all  time. 

With  what  feelings  of  emotion,  and  yet  something 
akin  to  relief,  the  visitor  turns  from  that  "  region  of 
primeval  grandeur,  where  art  has  done  nothing  and 
nature  everything."  In  defiance  of  all  training  his 
mind  will  linger  over  the  impressive  scene,  where  the 
massive  cliffs  have  tipped  a  river  upon  edge,  and  where 
solitude  reigns  supreme.  For  many  days  he  will  not 
be  able  to  rise  above  the  illusion  that  he  is  again 
among  the  rocks  and  dark  waters,  a  mile  and  a  half 
deep — reaching  far  below  the  bed  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence— while  the  steamer  sweeps  majestically  into  the 
Bay  of  Eternity  for  ever  guarded  by  her  twin  sentinels 
of  rock. 


Chapter    XVI 
Up  from  Tadousac 

The  Mission  of  the  Montagnais — Story  of  the  Last  Missionary — Rivilre  du  Loup 
— Murray  Bay — Giant  of  Cap  aux  Corbeaux — Earthquake  of  1663 — A  Vivid 
Scene — Isle  of  Hazels — A  Legion  of  Mountains — First  Mass  in  Canada — 
Baie  St.  Paul — Gouffre — Nature  Asleep  and  Awake. 

TADOUSAC  is  situated  on  the  lower  terrace  left 
at  the  base  of  the  hills  when  the  mighty  floods, 
held  long  in  leash  above,  first  opened  the  gate- 
way for  the  great  inland  sea  that  must  have  existed 
there.  The  most  conspicuous  object  is  the  great  hotel, 
that  seems  to  overflow  with  its  summer  tourists,  made 
more  distinct,  perhaps,  by  the  setting  of  dark  spruces 
that  cover  the  second  bench,  with  the  hills  above  form- 
ing an  oval  frame.  From  the  plateau  one  looks  across 
the  St.  Lawrence,  twenty-five  miles  wide,  and  as  un- 
ruffled as  it  is  possible  for  a  plain  of  water  to  be. 
From  this,  with  its  distant  bank  dimly  seen  through 
the  summer  haze,  dotted  faintly  with  its  clustered 
homes,  he  sees  with  marked  contrast  the  dark  waters  of 
the  Saguenay  reluctantly  leaving  their  deep  bed  for  the 
blue  shallows  of  the  (greater  river.  The  historic  mind 
turns  from  this  pretty  picture,  pervaded  with  the  wild- 

ness  of    nature,  to  the  little  church    standing   on    the 

224 


up  from  Tadousac  225 

site  of  the  bark-roofed  hut  which  served  as  the  mission 
chapel  until  1648,  when  the  original  church  was  built, 
and  what  may  be  termed  one  of  the  most  extended 
fields  of  missionary  work  in  New  France  was  definitely 
entered.  Beginning  with  the  romance  of  thrilling  ad- 
ventures, this  mission  of  the  Montagnais  closed  in  1674, 
under  circumstances  as  picturesque  as  the  most  vivid 
imagination  could  conceive.  Of  course  it  is  repeated 
now  as  a  legend,  but  no  historic  incident  has  stronger 
testimony  in  regard  to  its  actual  occurrence.  Pere  La 
Brosse  is  the  Jesuit  around  whose  memory  clings  this 
charming  tradition,  which  the  swarthy  Montagnais,  as 
well  as  the  devout  follower  of  the  faith,  still  love  to 
cherish: 

The  Father  had  been  working  hard  all  day,  as  usual,  among  his 
converts  and  in  the  services  of  the  church,  and  had  spent  the  even- 
ing in  pleasant  converse  with  some  of  the  officers  of  the  post. 
Their  amazement  and  incredulity  may  be  imagined  when,  as  he  got 
up  to  go,  he  bade  them  good-bye  for  eternity,  and  announced  that 
at  midnight  he  would  be  a  corpse,  adding  that  the  bell  of  his 
chapel  would  toll  for  his  passing  soul  at  that  hour.  He  told  them 
that  if  they  did  not  believe  him  they  could  go  and  see  for  them- 
selves, but  begged  them  not  to  touch  his  body.  He  bade  them 
fetch  Messire  Compain,  who  would  be  waiting  for  them  the  next 
day  at  the  lower  end  of  Isle  aux  Coudres,  to  wrap  him  in  his  shroud 
and  bury  him  ;  and  this  they  were  to  do  without  heeding  what  the 
weather  should  be,  for  he  would  answer  for  the  safety  of  those  who 
undertook  the  voyage.  The  little  party,  astounded,  sat,  watch  in 
hand,  marking  the  hours  pass,  till  at  the  first  stroke  of  midnight 
the  chapel  bell  began  to  toll,  and  trembling  with  fear,  they  rushed 
into  the  church.  There,  prostrate  before  the  altar,  hands  joined  in 
prayer,  shrouding  his  face  alike  from  the  first  glimpse  of  the  valley 
of  the  shadow  of  death,  and  from  the  dazzling  glory  of  the  waiting 
angels,  lay  Pere  La  Brosse,  dead.     What  fear  and  sorrow  must  have 


2  26  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

mingled  with  the  pious  hopes  and  tender  prayers  of  those  rough 
traders  and  rougher  Indians  as,  awe-stricken,  they  kept  vigil  that 
April  night.  With  sunrise  came  a  violent  storm  ;  but  mindful  of 
his  command  and  promise,  four  brave  men  risked  their  lives  on  the 
water.  The  lashing  waves  parted  to  form  a  calm  path  for  their 
canoe,  and  wondrously  soon  they  were  at  Isle  aux  Coudres.  There, 
as  had  been  foretold  by  Pere  La  Brosse,  was  M.  Compain  waiting 
on  the  rocks,  breviary  in  hand,  and  as  soon  as  they  were  in  hearing, 
his  shout  told  them  he  knew  their  strange  errand.  For  the  night 
before  he  had  been  mysteriously  warned:  the  bell  of  his  church  was 
tolled  at  midnight  by  invisible  hands,  and  a  voice  had  told  him 
what  had  happened  and  was  yet  to  happen,  and  had  bid  him  to  be 
ready  to  do  his  ofifice.  In  all  the  missions  that  Pere  La  Brosse  had 
served,  the  church  bells,  it  is  said,  marked  that  night  his  dying 
moment. 

On  the  north  shore  of   the  St.   Lawrence  nobody 

goes   beyond    Tadousac,  unless   he  is  a  salmon-fisher, 

and  accounts  from  the  interior  of  the  country  come  in 

the    strain    of   traditions,    vague    and    visionary.      The 

southern  shore  has  more  attractions  below  this  point, 

as  has  been  shown,  but  from  Tadousac  to  Quebec  the 

north  bank  can  claim  the  prize  for  picturesque  wild- 

ness,  though  the  French  annalist,  Boucher,  in  his  His- 

toire  du  Canada,  wrote  in  1663  : 

The  country  is  quite  uninhabitable,  being  too  high  and  all 
rocky,  and  quite  precipitous.  I  have  remarked  only  one  place, 
that  is  Baie  St.  Paul,  about  half  way  and  opposite  to  Isle  aux 
Coudres,  which  seems  very  pretty  as  one  passes  by,  as  well  as  all 
the  islands  between  Tadousac  and  Quebec,  which  are  fit  to  be 
inhabited. 

In  a  marked  degree  what  this  veracious  historian 
said  of  the  shore  nearly  two  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago 
will  apply  to  it  now,  with  the  added  presence,  here  and 
there,  of  a  small   hamlet  clinging  to   the  foot  of  the 


•TV 

I 


Up  from  Tadousac  227 

precipitous  bluffs,  rather  forcibly  proving  that  the  ex- 
ception to  the  rule  does  not  affect  the  grand  result. 
The  boldness  of  the  rocky  ramparts  thrusting  them- 
selves down  to  the  water's  edge  with  a  front  that 
cannot  be  scaled  could  scarcely  have  presented  a  wilder 
aspect  to  the  early  voyager  than  it  does  to  the  modern 
tourist  passing  on  one  of  the  palatial  steamers  that  ply 
on  the  river. 

Leaving  Tadousac  on  our  upward  trip,  with  L'Anse 
St.  Jean  on  our  right,  following  nearly  in  the  track  of 
Cartier,  we  cross  the  St.  Lawrence  to  what  was  then 
the  unpeopled  site  of  the  present-day  lumber  port, 
Rivilre  die  Loup.  It  is  sufficient,  perhaps,  for  the 
reputation  of  this  bustling  place  that  it  possesses  the 
most  magnificent  view  of  the  opposite  bank  to  be 
found  along  the  river.  The  distance  lending  a  beauti- 
ful effect  to  the  rare  colouring  of  the  atmosphere,  the 
combination  is  especially  happy  at  the  setting  of  the 
sun,  when  the  soft  radiance  of  its  beams  falls  aslant 
the  background  of  dark-green  hills  touched  with  the 
variegated  hues  of  the  maple  and  birch  of  the  lowlands. 

The  first  place  of  importance  to  mention  is  that 
popular  resort  for  tourists,  Murray  Bay,  the  Newport 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  nearly  encircled  by  the  beautiful 
Canadian  scenery,  with  the  salt  breeze  fanning  its  brow 
and  the  briny  surf  displaced  by  the  blue  tide  of  the 
inlet  at  its  foot.  This  place  is  eighty  miles  below 
Quebec.  From  the  east  of  the  bay  rises  into  the 
clouds  the  lofty  Cap  aux  Corbeaux,  a  name  given  this 


228  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

peak  in  the  days  of  the  early  explorers  from  the  dis- 
mal croakings  of  the  ravens,  as  they  hovered  over  the 
jagged  cliffs  and  rock-shelves  beyond  the  reach  of  the 
most  nimble  climber.  Nor  are  they  all  gone  yet  by 
any  means,  for  great  numbers  still  build  their  nests 
in  the  inaccessible  crags,  unfearing  the  molestation 
of  man  ;  while,  finding  a  precarious  existence  in  the 
stunted  growth,  browses  the  caribou,  and  the  bear 
fattens  upon  the  berries  afforded  by  the  dwarfed  bushes 
clinging  to  the  crevices  of  rock. 

Like  other  wild  spots,  this  is  the  source  of  many 
legends,  such  as  hang  over  Blomidon  of  Nova  Scotia. 
Here,  as  the  susceptible  habitan  believes  to  this  day, 
is  the  abode  of  demons,  and  there  is  a  tradition  that  in 
the  misty  years  of  yore  a  giant,  in  some  respects  like 
Glooscap  of  Blomidon,  held  sway  until  the  cross  drove 
him  farther  into  the  solitude  of  the  land  of  Ungava. 
He  is  still  angry  over  his  forced  abdication  of  a  throne 
he  had  held  so  long,  and  frequently  he  stamps  his  great 
foot  in  his  wrath  and  peals  forth  his  voice  in  thunder- 
tones,  so  the  entire  northern  shore  is  shaken  with  such 
violence  as  to  terrify  the  people.  This  thrilling  nar- 
rative is  given  a  touch  of  truth  by  the  fact  that  the 
region  is  subject  to  periodical  shocks  of  earthquake, 
the  worst  of  which  was  felt  in  1663,  when  the  shaking 
lasted  for  over  six  months,  and  was  felt  as  far  south  as 
New  England.  The  last  shock  was  in  1870.  Accord- 
ing to  contemporary  accounts,  at  this  time  the  air  was 
dark  with    smoke   and    cinders,    illuminated    ever   and 


Up  from  Tadousac  229 

anon  with  meteors.     Vegetation  dried  up,  and  nothing- 
grew  that  year.     Ferland,  in  describing  this,  says  in  part : 

New  lakes  were  formed,  hills  were  lowered,  falls  were  levelled, 
small  streams  disappeared,  great  forests  were  overturned.  From 
Cap  Tourmente  to  Tadousac  the  appearance  of  the  shore  was 
greatly  altered  in  several  localities.  Near  Bale  St.  Paul  an  isolated 
hill,  about  a  quarter  of  a  league  in  circumference,  descended  be- 
low the  waters,  and  emerged  to  form  an  island.  Towards  Pointe 
aux  Alouettes  a  great  wood  was  detached  from  the  solid  ground, 
and  slipped  over  the  rocks  into  the  river,  where  for  some  time  the 
trees  remained  upright,  raising  their  verdant  crests  above  the  water. 

As  many  as  ten  severe  shocks  have  been  recorded 
since  the  first  voyager  came  up  the  river.  In  the  fast- 
ness of  the  broken  interior  at  the  upper  end  of  the  val- 
ley is  pointed  out  the  place  where  the  inhabitants  living 
toward  Quebec  found  concealment  from  the  soldiers 
of  Wolfe's  army  at  the  time  of  his  campaign  in  1 759. 
Many  of  these  came  from  the  Isle  aux  Coudres,  which 
name  was  given  it  by  Cartier  from  the  abundance  of 
hazel  trees  growing  there  at  the  time  of  his  voyage. 
This  is  one  of  the  oldest  French  settlements,  and  it 
was  here  that  Admiral  Durell's  squadron  waited  two 
months  for  the  coming  of  the  rest  of  Wolfe's  army,  the 
inhabitants  fleeing  to  the  mountains,  as  described.  It 
is  said  two  of  Montcalm's  scouts  swam  the  river  at 
night,  captured  two  English  officers,  one  a  grandson 
of  the  admiral,  and  took  them  to  Quebec. 

The  Breton,  upon  arriving  at  the  island  of  hazels, 
found  the  natives  busy  catching  porpoises,  and  this 
industry  of  the  simple   natives  was  taken  up  by  the 


230  The  St  Lawrence  River 

Seminarists  of  Quebec  one  hundred  and  fifty  years 
later,  and  from  that  time  has  become  the  permanent 
employment  of  the  seigneurs  during  the  season.  It  is 
recorded  that  as  many  as  three  hundred  and  twenty 
have  been  captured  at  the  incoming  of  a  tide.  When 
it  is  considered  that  each  porpoise  yields  over  a  barrel 
of  oil,  and  that  its  skin  is  valuable  for  leather,  it  can 
be  seen  that  this  occupation  was  decidedly  lucrative. 
Soon  individuals  and  companies  contended  for  exclu- 
sive rights  to  carry  on  the  fishery.  The  method  em- 
ployed was  exceedingly  simple  and  effective.  It  was 
simply  to  drive  rows  of  saplings  long  enough  to  reach 
above  high  water  into  the  shelving  beach  from  the 
extremes  of  high  and  low  water,  each  end  stopping  with 
a  spiral  curve  so  as  to  form  a  half  circle.  The  por- 
poises coming  with  the  tide  in  pursuit  of  shoals  of  small 
fishes,  smelts  and  herrings,  that  keep  close  to  the  shore, 
unwittingly  passed  within  the  trap  set  for  them.  Upon 
seeking  to  return  they  found  themselves  confronted  by 
this  curved  line  of  poles,  and  frightened  in  their  efforts 
to  find  an  escape,  swam  along  the  swaying  barrier, 
which  served  to  add  to  their  frenzy,  until,  coming  to  the 
twist  at  its  end,  they  were  turned  back  over  their  course. 
Repeated  attempts  of  this  kind  finally  so  distracted 
them  that  they  gave  up  in  despair,  to  be  left  high  and 
dry  by  the  ebbing  tide.  Then  they  became  easy  vic- 
tims to  the  murderous  assaults  of  the  fishermen.  The 
hapless  victims  died  without  defence,  the  female  sacri- 
ficing her  own  life  in  a  vain  effort  to  save  her  young. 


Up  from  Tadousac 


2;i 


displaying  most  pathetic  examples  of  maternal  devotion 
unto  death. 

This  isle,  with  a  population  of  between  seven  and 
eight  hundred,  two  persons  out  of  three  being  church 
communicants,  has  the  distinction  of  being  the  place  on 
the  St.  Lawrence  where  mass  was  first  celebrated. 

With  a  legion  of  mountains  in  the  background,  we 
are  overlooked  by  the  frowning  Les  Eboulements,  here 
marshalling,  as  of  yore,  the  rocky  host  and  bidding  de- 
fiance to  the  combined  forces  of  nature  and  man.  It  is 
not  difficult  to  picture  to  the  mind's  eye  something  of 
the  terrific  battle  waged  in  the  days  when  the  earth  was 
young  between  these  giants,  whose  broken  and  scarred 
veterans  remain  as  eternal  warders  of  the  battlefield. 
From  the  summit  one  looks  down  upon  fertile  valleys 
set  with  white  villages,  and  buttressed  by  the  mountains. 
The  placid  river  is  unrolled  like  an  endless  ribbon  from 
a  mighty  spool,  the  distant  shore  mirrored  in  trans- 
parent clouds,  jewelled  with  stars  as  the  sun-rays  play 
upon  the  pointed  spires  of  its  churches.  In  the  centre 
of  this  beautiful  vista  lies  Isle  aux  Coudres,  fairer, 
brighter,  younger,  than  it  appeared  on  that  auspicious 
September  morning,  in  1535,  when 

De  Saint  Malo,  beau  port  de  Mer, 
Trois  grands  navires  sont  arrives, 

and  the  Grande  Herviine,  the  Petite  Her^nine,  and  the  Emerillon 
swung  to  their  anchors  in  the  bay  behind  the  little  promontories 
that  jut  out  near  the  western  end  of  the  island.  One  can  almost 
imagine  that  the  sweet  and  solemn  strains  of  the  Mass  which  Dom 
Antoine  and  Dom  Guillaume  le  Breton  offered  for  the  first  time  on 


232  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Canadian  soil,  and  the  fervent  responses  of  Jacques  Cartier  and  his 
men  are  borne  across  the  water.  But  it  is  evening,  and  the  soft 
sounds  we  hear  are  the  chimes  of  the  Angelus  from  the  churches  in 
the  valleys. 

Boucher,  whom  I  have  aheady  quoted,  in  writing 
twenty  years  later  says  that  two  settlements  have  been 
founded  in  this  wild  district,  "  that  of  Baie  St.  Paul 
being  the  first  inhabited  land  to  be  met  with  on  the 
north  shore  as  you  come  from  France."  It  contained 
only  three  brave  families  then,  and  a  population  of  only 
thirty-one  souls.  If  it  has  grown  slowly  since,  the  river 
more  rapidly  has  been  robbing  it  of  its  fertile  soil,  year 
by  year,  until  to-day  it  is  little  more  than  a  cleft  in  the 
rocks  through  which  a  furious  mountain  torrent  dashes 
over  rocky  shoals  where  stood  the  dwellings  of  the 
earliest  inhabitants  mentioned  by  the  historian.  As  if 
one  spite  was  not  sufficient  for  nature  to  have  against 
a  place,  Baie  St.  Paul  was  the  scene,  some  years  since, 
of  severe  earthquake  shocks.  This  parish  suffered  at 
the  hands  of  Captain  Gorham's  soldiers  during  the  raid 
of  1759,  when  all  the  villages  as  far  down  as  Murray 
Bay  on  the  north  bank  were  ravaged. 

In  juxtaposition  to  Baie  St.  Paul  is  the  delightful 
retreat  of  Gouffre,  with  its  groves  of  birch,  maple,  and 
hazel,  and  arbours  of  spruce  and  cedar,  its  pebbly  shores, 
its  clusters  of  bright  cottages  ;  the  whole  sanctified  by 
the  little  church,  whose  spire  mingles  with  the  tree-tops 
like  a  golden  star  upon  a  field  of  green.  A  marked 
tranquillity  of  peacefulness  and  contentment  rests  upon 
all,  as  if  here  was  one  spot  where  troubles  cease  from 


Up  from  Tadousac  233 

vexing  and  the  soul  is  free  from  doubt.  As  it  is  with 
man  so  it  is  with  nature.  The  rugged  heights  meh  in 
the  distance  into  a  soft  Hquid  blue  and  grey  mingling, 
while  the  nearer  cliffs,  seamed  and  scarred  by  many 
fissures  and  jagged  points,  are  relieved  by  silvery  bands 
of  crystal  water  hanging  like  tremulous  drapery  over 
the  brink  of  the  precipice.  Anon,  plunging  desperately 
down  the  descent,  a  subdued  cry  of  triumph  comes  up 
from  below,  as  if  the  tumbling  waters  would  proclaim 
to  the  world  the  daring  feat  they  had  performed. 
Disappearing  then  with  a  parting  shout  of  glee,  appar- 
ently lost  to  sight  for  ever,  they  as  suddenly  and  merrily 
reappear  upon  the  vision,  brighter  than  before  if  that 
were  possible,  ready  to  leap  another  chasm  as  fearless 
as  if  it  had  not  taken  a  hundred  just  such  plunges  in  its 
wild  journey  to  the  great  river  that  seems  to  linger  here 
to  catch  in  its  arms  these  runaway  naiads  of  ravine  and 
forest.  The  murmur  of  many  of  these  streams  falls 
upon  the  ear  like  the  subdued  strains  of  sacred  music, 
while  the  sweet  aroma  of  field  and  forest  perfumes  with 
an  indescribable  sweetness  the  miles  of  entrancing  land- 
scape and  sympathetic  river.  But  those  who  have 
braved  its  wintry  fastness  tell  me  it  is  not  always  so  calm 
and  peaceful  at  Gouffre.     There  comes  a  time  when 

melting  ice  and  heavy  rains  swell  these  mountain  streams  chafing 
at  the  long  restraint  the  mountains  have  imposed  upon  them,  until 
they  fret  and  tear  at  the  flanks  of  the  hills,  and  uncover  the  secrets 
of  the  prehistoric  world.  Rocks,  trees,  and  bridges  are  swept  into 
the  turbid  flood  of  the  Gouffre,  which,  raging  like  a  demon  un- 
chained, destroys  everything  that  impedes  its  headlong  course. 


Chapter  XVII 
Between  Cap  Tourmente  and  Beauport 

Where  Art  and  Nature  Meet — a  Climax  in  Mountains — the  Island  of  Sorrow — 
Legend  of  Crane  Island — Chateau  Le  Grande — Prisoner  of  the  Jealous 
Wife — Cartier's  Isle  of  Bacchus — Ancient  Petit  Cap — Divine  Ste.  Anne 
— Canadian  Mecca — Story  of  the  Saint — A  Bird's-Eye  View  of  Beauport — 
Falls  of  Montmorency. 

A  BOVE  Tadousac  the  northern  shore  is  bounded 
/  \  by  a  rocky  ridge  that  comes  so  close  to  the 
I  V  water's  edge  for  miles  at  a  stretch  as  to  rise  a 
sheer  precipice  into  the  air.  Something  of  the  impres- 
sive wildness  and  majesty  of  the  Ichang  Gorge  of 
China's  great  river  is  recalled.  Only  one  thing  is  lack- 
ing to  remind  us  of  the  Highlands  of  the  Hudson,  and 
that  is  the  fact  that  everything  here  is  on  a  mightier 
scale — the  great  breadth  of  water-scene  robbing  the 
banks  of  their  impressiveness.  Bring  these  walls  into 
closer  companionship  and  the  result  would  amaze  the 
beholder.  At  Cap  Tourmente  a  climax  in  the  mount- 
ain range  is  reached.  The  rounded  summit  of  the 
Laurentides  come  into  plainer  view,  and  Mont  Ste. 
Anne  stands  out  in  bold  relief,  deserted,  it  would  seem, 
by  her  sister  heights,  who  slowly  retreat  to  make  room 
for  the  surprise  they  have  planned  a  little  farther  up 
the  broken  way. 

234 


I 


Between  Cap  Tourmente  and  Beauport   235 

Where  the  river  begins  to  narrow,  among  the  many 
island  gems  that  repose  upon  its  peaceful  bosom,  is  a 
jewel  known  as  lie  de  Grosse,  with  no  apparent  evidence 
in  sight  of  the  grewsome  history  thrust  upon  it  by  a 
stern  necessity  that  knows  no  sentiment  in  its  devotion  to 
duty.  When  the  accommodations  upon  the  ships  during 
their  long  passage  over  from  the  Old  World  were  such 
as  to  advance  disease  and  death,  this  island  was  made 
a  quarantine  station  for  the  immigrants.  Here,  in  the 
year  1847  alone,  as  many  as  seven  thousand,  through 
fever  and  cholera,  found  an  end  to  their  bright  dreams 
of  homes  in  a  new  country.  But  when  we  come  to 
think  of  it,  others  have  scarcely  less  happy  records,  for 
among  all  of  the  fair  isles  of  the  lower  St.  Lawrence, 
so  fragrant  with  innocence,  not  one  but  has  its  dark 
tale  of  human  misery,  some  story  of  treachery  and  mas- 
sacre, wherein  is  preserved  the  memory  of  life's  un- 
fortunate sons  and  daughters. 

About  thirty  miles  below  Quebec  lies  a  little  group 
of  islands  in  mid-river,  the  largest  of  which  is  known 
as  Crane's  Island.  Over  this  lingers  a  goodly  share  of 
romantic  memories  of  that  day  now  fruitful  of  legends. 
The  very  atmosphere  seems  to  breathe  this,  and  the 
shimmer  of  the  sunlight,  as  it  quivers  over  rock 
and  grassy  slope,  until  it  finally  rests  upon  the  highest 
point  of  land,  pictures  it  upon  the  imagination  of  the 
beholder. 

"Looking  upon  the  ruins  of  Chateau  Le  Grande?" 
breaks   upon    our    meditation    a   voice    at   our   elbow. 


236  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

"  That  has  gone  the  way  of  mortals,"  the  speaker,  an 
old  river-man,  continues,  "though  it  was  only  in  the 
eighteenth  century  it  was  raised  as  the  monument  of  a 
woman's  whim."  Of  course  it  was  a  love  romance,  and 
if  short  it  compassed  the  happiness  of  two  rivals.  The 
hero,  for  I  suppose  he  must  be  considered  such,  was  a 
gay  courtier  of  the  social  circles  of  Old  France.  His  wife 
was  handsome,  pure,  and  true,  but  of  a  temperament 
that  brooked  no  oppositon  to  her  slightest  wish,  and 
secured  little  happiness  to  her  lover  or  to  herself.  Up- 
braiding him  one  day  for  his  freeness  in  the  presence  of 
Court  beauties,  he  proposed  a  compact  with  her,  which 
she  quickly  accepted.  This  was  nothing  less  than  for 
them  to  build  a  home  near  the  capital  of  the  then 
famous  New  France,  and  there  live  exclusively  in  each 
other's  society.  In  such  a  place  there  could  be  no  an- 
ticipation of  jealousy  or  family  discord. 

The  site  chosen  was  Crane's  Island.  The  feathered 
denizens,  which  had  held  here  their  right  of  domain  for 
ages,  were  frightened  from  their  old  rendezvous  by  the 
sound  of  the  hammer  of  civilisation,  and  they  speedily 
retreated  before  the  aggressor.  On  yon  summit  rose 
directly  a  fine  residence  of  the  provincial  architecture 
of  the  times,  and  to  this  wild,  lonely  retreat  in  the 
heart  of  the  island  Le  Grande  transported  his  young 
and  beautiful  wife.  Happy  months  followed,  winging 
themselves  all  too  swiftly  into  years,  the  self-exiled 
couple  finding  delight  in  the  picturesque  surroundings. 
Both  loved  nature,  and  they  saw  here  much  to  admire, 


Between  Cap  Tourmente  and  Beauport    237 

for  no  more  lovely  and  entrancing  scene  was  to  be  found 
in  the  New  World.  Nor  was  there  the  monotony 
one  might  have  expected  in  this  isolation.  The  scene 
seemed  to  change  day  by  day.  Now  the  landscape 
looked  fresh  and  innocent  as  some  coy  maid  in  its  man- 
tle of  spring  newness  ;  anon  it  blossomed  as  the  rose  ; 
grew  grey  and  brown  under  the  autumn  sun ;  took  on 
a  brightness  given  it  by  the  brush  of  the  frost-king; 
and  then  fell  asleep  under  the  virgin  robes  of  winter, 
looking  fairer,  purer  than  ever  before.  There  were  no 
two  days  alike,  and  each  was  unto  them  a  poem  written  in 
the  sweet  language  of  love  and  filled  with  the  inspira- 
tion of  immortality.  The  birds,  finding  here  kindred 
spirits  of  affinity,  returned  slyly  to  their  old-time  haunts, 
singing  merrier  than  ever  before.  At  intervals,  some 
weather-beaten  vessel,  a  messenger  from  the  outside 
world,  would  come  up  the  river,  flying  in  the  ambient 
breeze  the  beloved  fleur-de-lis  of  their  homeland. 

The  fairest  sky  must  some  time  become  flecked  by  a 
cloud.  Even  into  the  sweet  contentment  of  this  life 
came  a  shadow,  and  it  was  the  shadow  of  a  smile. 
While  their  lives  had  flowed  on  silently,  quietly,  hap- 
pily, Madame  Le  Grande  had  become  aware  of  the  pain- 
ful fact  that  a  gay  life  had  sprung  up  close  by  them, 
transforming,  as  it  seemed  to  her  vivid  mind,  this  wilder- 
ness into  Paris.  Not  alone  at  Quebec  had  this  free 
spirit  of  gaiety  entered  into  the  every-day  conduct  of 
her  inhabitants,  but  into  the  lives  of  the  smaller  towns 
and    Indian   villages   something  of   this   freeness   and 


2^8  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

indifference  to  decorum  had  also  come.  Le  Grande  was 
now  often  away  from  the  company  of  his  suspicious  wife. 
It  is  true  he  made  Hberal  and  plausible  excuses  for  be- 
ing absent  so  much,  but  it  dawned  upon  her  that  these 
were  more  profuse  than  an  honest  purpose  demanded. 
Affairs  went  on  in  this  manner,  until  frequently  his 
boat  did  not  return  from  over  the  river  till  an  early 
hour  of  morninof.  She  said  nothinor  but  bided  her 
time.  This  came  but  too  soon  for  her  peace  of  mind 
and  his  happiness.  It  usually  does  when  a  woman 
waits. 

Making-  some  trivial  excuse  to  her  as  the  reason  for 
being  away  for  the  evening,  Le  Grande  left  the  chateau 
one  summer  day  just  as  the  westering  sun  was  kissing 
the  mountains  on  the  farther  view  good-night,  and 
rowed  over  the  water  to  the  opposite  shore.  She  had 
been  told  by  one  of  her  secret  spies  that  the  Indians, 
a  few  miles  above,  were  holding  a  dance  that  would  last 
until  late  into  the  night.  Throwing  over  her  shapely 
shoulders  a  thick  dark  cloak,  though  the  weather  was 
warm,  she  followed  in  his  course,  until  she  reached  one 
of  those  hamlets  where  a  mixed  population  of  French 
and  Indian  prevailed.  She  soon  found  her  informant 
had  not  been  mistaken.  One  of  those  wild,  pantomimic 
dances,  for  which  the  Indians  were  famous,  was  in  the 
midst  of  its  dizzy,  bewildering  pleasure.  Ay,  at  the 
moment  she  paused  by  the  edge  of  the  timber  bordering 
the  sequestered  spot,  Le  Grande,  her  husband,  who  had 
sworn  upon  his  sword  and  the  crucifix  to  be  ever  faith- 


Between  Cap  Tourmente  and  Beauport    239 

ful  to  her,  was  then  leading  forward  to  the  dance  a 
beautiful  dusky  belle  !  She  did  not  stop  to  listen  to 
the  music,  or  dwell  upon  the  surprise  she  was  to  cre- 
ate. Like  a  shadow  her  tall  and  regal  figure  glided 
forward  and  stood  beside  her  faithless  husband. 

What  she  said  to  him  no  one  ever  knew.  In  fact, 
the  poor  Indians  fled  at  sight  of  her  supernatural  figure, 
thinking  it  was  some  evil  spirit  angry  with  them  for 
their  sport.  Le  Grande  dropped  the  arm  of  the  dark- 
hued  beauty  hanging  upon  him  for  support,  and  fol- 
lowed his  wife.  The  return  to  the  chateau  was  made 
in  silence,  so  far  as  is  known.  Once  there,  she  is  re- 
ported to  have  turned  upon  him  with  a  steely  glitter  in 
her  dark  eyes,  saying  : 

"  Is  this  proof  of  your  fidelity  to  me  ?  Was  it  for 
this  you  brought  me  to  this  lonely  spot  ?  You  made  a 
vow  then  to  grant  me  any  demand  I  might  ask  if  you 
proved  recreant  to  your  pledge.  Are  you  ready  to 
fulfil  your  promise?" 

"  Name  it,"  he  said  simply. 

"You  are  never  to  leave  this  island  again  while  you 
live. 

He  bowed  his  head  in  silence,  and  from  that  day 
Seigneur  Le  Grande  was  never  seen  away  from  the 
chateau,  which  suddenly  lost  its  erstwhile  cheerful- 
ness, while  silence  reigned  where  formerly  was  life  and 
vivacity.  At  last  there  came  a  day  when  Madame 
Le  Grande  engaged  passage  to  France  on  a  home- 
ward-bound ship,  when  it  was  known  that  her  doubly 


240  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

unfortunate  husband  had  been  released  from  his  im- 
prisonment and  the  tyranny  of  a  woman's  love  by  that 
grim  freeman,  Death.  She  was  never  heard  of  after- 
wards in  Quebec,  though  it  was  rumoured  that  she 
had  taken  the  veil.  The  chateau  long  since  crumbled 
to  dust,  there  being  no  one  to  preserve  its  glory. 

Another  island  to  claim  our  interest  is  the  Isle  of 
Bacchus,  as  Cartier  christened  it  in  1535,  on  account 
of  its  great  profusion  of  vines  and  grapes.  Later,  in 
honour  of  the  Duke  of  Orleans,  the  son  of  Francis  I.,  it 
received  its  modern  name  of  Isle  of  Orleans.  Between 
the  two,  for  a  long  period,  it  was  known  among  the 
pioneers  as  *'  Wizards'  Isle,"  under  the  belief  that  the 
Indians  who  inhabited  the  place  were  in  such  close 
touch  with  nature  as  to  be  able  to  predict  with  certainty 
the  cominpf  of  a  storm  or  h'lQ-h.  tide.  For  a  lono-  time 
it  was  claimed  that  during  the  nights  phantom  lights 
played  over  the  land  and  water,  and  the  white  inhabit- 
ants became  alarmed,  until  it  was  found  that  the  "spirit 
lights "  were  torches  in  the  hands  of  dusky  fishermen 
moving  swiftly  and  silently  to  and  fro  in  their  canoes. 
Even  then,  so  strong  a  hold  had  the  spell  thrown  over 
the  island  by  the  uncanny  stories  that  had  been  told, 
there  were  many  who  still  whispered  by  the  fireside  of 
grotesque  midnight  dances  by  lamps  that  no  mortal 
hands  lighted.  Very  peaceful  and  innocent  of  super- 
natural deeds  rests  the  beautiful  island  to-day  under  the 
benign  influence  of  modern  civilisation. 

Coming  up  the  river  and  approaching  the  Isle  of 


\ 

I 

4 


i 


Between  Cap  Tourmente  and  Beauport    241 

Orleans  our  gaze  becomes  attracted  by  a  bluff  that  Is 
the  site  of  the  ancient  church  of  St.  Fran9ois.  In  the 
distance  the  Laurentian  hills  fretwork  the  horizon,  from 
among  whose  pinnacled  tops  stands  out  in  bold  relief 
one  at  the  base  of  which  stood  the  little  stone  chapel 
that  was  the  centre  of  attraction  for  one  of  the  oldest 
settlements  in  Canada,  Petit  Cap.  Hither  fled  the 
remnant  of  Christian  Indians  in  the  days  of  the  mis- 
sionaries and  warfare  with  the  Iroquois.  It  was  here 
they  listened  with  the  devout  priests  to  the  sweet-toned 
sacred  vespers,  whose  soft  music  floated  swiftly,  sadly, 
across  the  rolling  river  on  the  wings  of  the  wind 
to  the  dusky  warriors  skulking  in  the  depths  of  the 
forest,  but  with  enough  of  their  native  stamina  left  to 
refuse  to  sell  their  birthright  for  a  bumper  of  French 
rum,  or  a  few  gaudy  trinkets,  if  less  harmful,  quite  as 
worthless.  What  a  panorama  of  wilderness  overhung 
the  scene  upon  that  day  ! 

A  hundred  years  later,  and  this  was  the  scene  of 
the  attack  of  the  brawny  Highlanders  upon  the  allied 
French  and  Hurons.  The  village  then  known  under 
the  more  divine  name  of  Sainte  Anne,  suffered  sorely 
on  this  occasion.  Every  other  building  in  the  hamlet 
was  burned,  save  the  little  church,  which  defied  the  in- 
vaders' torch,  and  remained  a  sacred  shrine  to  many 
pilgrims  in  the  years  to  come.  When  war's  red  flame 
had  burned  out,  the  town  was  rebuilt,  and  to-day  the 
picturesque  little  community  exists  as  a  living  example 
of  the  Roman  Catholics'  faith  and  work  in  Canada,  one 


242  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

of  the  oldest,  if  not  the  oldest,  altar  of  worship  in  the 
St.  Lawrence  valley.  What  stories  cluster  about  the 
venerated  place  !  What  memories  cling  to  its  shrines  ! 
What  voices  come  in  subdued  whispers  of  that  far-away 
past  in  which  it  was  founded  !  What  changes  it  has 
outlived  !  That  pagan  race,  to  whom  it  was  originally 
consecrated,  and  in  whose  welfare  so  many  of  the  faith- 
ful brotherhood  laboured,  loved,  and  lost  during  the 
long  years  of  missionary  work,  have  passed  away,  until 
only  a  handful  remain  to  fan  the  embers  of  departed 
lordship.  The  far-reaching  forests  have  also  disap- 
peared, and  on  the  hill-tops  and  on  the  plains  have 
risen  the  homes  of  a  prosperous  people.  This  has 
not  been  the  fulfilment  of  the  old  dream  of  French 
colonisation,  but  the  upbuilding  of  a  rival  race.  The 
scheme  of  the  ambitious  Richelieu  to  found  a  French 
empire  in  America  proved  a  delusion  under  his  system 
of  development.     It  has  been  truthfully  said  that 

when  he  excluded  the  Huguenots  from  France  and  her  colonies, 
he  was  doing  as  much  as  possible  to  add  to  the  wealth  of  the  Pro- 
testants of  Europe  and  to  the  prosperity  of  the  Puritans  of  New 
England,  and  one  of  the  results  of  his  policy  was  to  be  the  per- 
petuation of  the  very  heresy  he  hated. 

The  old  church  built  in  1660  at  Ste.  Anne  de 
Beaupre  was  taken  down  some  years  since,  it  having 
been  declared  unsafe.  On  its  site  was  erected  a  mod- 
ern and  more  pretentious  building,  but  one  that  lacks 
the  ancient  interest  of  the  other.  It  is  true  you  will 
be    told  that   the   interior  is   of  the   same   finish,    and 


C  o' 


I 


Between  Cap  Tourmente  and  Beauport    243 

the  double  bell-tower  that  surmounts  it  is  the  same 
that  did  service  for  the  original ;  but  the  rose  window, 
the  plain  fagade,  the  Norman  door,  the  air  of  a  gen- 
eration long-since  departed  are  missing,  and  we  find 
ourselves  entering  what  seems  to  us  a  commonplace 
structure,  lacking  that  air  of  deep  sanctity  which  belongs 
to  the  old. 

Through  all  the  changes  of  the  years,  the  subor- 
dination of  the  native  race,  and  the  ascendency  of  the 
English  over  the  French,  the  shrine  of  Ste.  Anne  was 
left  in  peace  and  repose,  until  it  was  suddenly  revealed 
in  the  nineteenth  century,  under  the  revivified  belief  of 
an  old  creed,  that  the  relics  of  a  dead  saint  were  more 
powerful  to  save  the  living  than  all  other  powers.  The 
incredible  is  always  the  swiftest  of  wing,  and  it  was 
only  a  brief  time  before  pious  pilgrimages  were  begun 
to  this  early  outpost  of  Quebec,  which  under  the  old 
regirne  was  the  soul  of  New  France,  just  as  Kyoto  was 
the  soul  of  Old  Japan.  And  to-day,  in  fewer  numbers, 
which  increase  year  by  year,  there  are  made  to  this 
Canadian  Mecca  pious  pilgrimages  like  those  once  made 
to  a  Saviour's  grave  in  the  Holy  Land,  and  those  which 
are  now  annually  performed  in  Japan,  when  thousands 
wend  their  way  along  the  noble  old  road  under  the 
lofty  cryptomerias  leading  to  the  templed  hills  of 
Nikko. 

Ste.  Anne  is  the  patron  saint  of  Canada.  Where- 
ever  one  goes  he  is  pretty  sure  to  stumble  upon  a 
shrine  in  which  tapers  are  kept  burning,  and  which  is 


244  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

dedicated  to  the  memory  of  this  virtuous  person.  A 
question  naturally  arises  in  regard  to  the  history  of 
this  omnipresent  patron  more  often  appealed  to  by  the 
ancient  voyageurs  than  all  others,  and  whose  influence 
is  so  marked  at  this  day  as  to  call  for  comment.  Tra- 
dition, which  is  ever  bold  where  history  is  shy,  says  she 
was  the  mother  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  a  daughter  of 
the  house  of  David.  Her  sepulchre  is  in  Jerusalem, 
but  you  will  be  shown  in  a  little  glass  case  what  are 
claimed  to  be  her  bones.  Are  you  curious  to  know 
how  they  reached  this  little  niche  of  the  world  ?  Tra- 
dition never  yet  builded  a  structure  it  was  not  able  to 
clothe  in  proper  attire.  It  does  not  fail  in  this  case. 
When  the  infidels  destroyed  the  monuments  of  the 
Holy  Land,  one  casket  was  found  that  would  neither 
burn  nor  open.  In  their  rage  the  despoilers  flung 
it  into  the  sea,  upon  the  bosom  of  which  it  was  car- 
ried to  the  shores  of  Provence,  There  it  was  washed 
ashore,  and  lay,  it  is  supposed,  for  a  long  period  em- 
bedded in  the  sand.  Finally,  a  big  fish  struggling  in 
the  captivity  of  some  fishermen  scooped  out  a  deep 
hole  in  the  sand,  at  the  bottom  of  which  this  casket  was 
disclosed.  But  the  reverent  men  of  Apt  could  succeed 
no  better  than  the  infidels  of  Jerusalem  in  opening  the 
cofifin,  and  believing  it  was  not  to  be  done  by  mortals 
they  placed  it  in  a  vault,  and  had  the  walls  hermetically 
sealed.  Here  the  casket  rested  undisturbed  for  over 
seven  hundred  years.  Then  Charlemagne  had  his  at- 
tention attracted  to  it  by  a  boy,  blind,  deaf,  and  dumb. 


Between  Cap  Tourmente  and  Beauport    245 

How  he  came  by  his  information  the  conqueror  did  not 
stop  to  ask,  but  upon  removing  the  wall  he  discovered 
the  casket.  From  this  place,  for  some  unknown  reason, 
it  was  taken  to  the  little  town  of  Carnac,  in  Brittany, 
where  it  was  entombed,  and  the  place  became  famous 
as  the  shrine  of  Ste.  Anne  d'Auray.  Once  more  the 
sacred  bones  were  removed,  this  time  by  an  over-zealous 
believer,  who  started  with  them  to  America.  After  a 
stormy  passage  over  the  Atlantic  they  found  repose 
here  at  Ste.  Anne  de  Beaupre. 

This  church  dates  its  origin  from  1658,  in  which  a 
habitan  gave  the  land  for  its  site,  and  the  French  gov- 
ernor laid  its  foundation-stone.  On  that  very  day  its 
miracles  began.  A  peasant  afflicted  with  a  severe  pain 
in  his  loins,  while  in  the  midst  of  assisting-  in  the  eood 
work,  was  suddenly  relieved  of  his  suffering.  Another 
with  a  lame  limb  recovered  its  use  immediately.  A 
blind  man  was  restored  to  his  sight  when  he  turned  his 
sightless  orbs  on  the  sacred  place.  Another  who  had 
not  been  able  to  speak  aloud  for  years  found  his  speech, 
and  it  is  needless  to  say,  perhaps,  spent  much  of  his 
time  afterwards  in  sounding  the  praises  of  this  saint. 
A  pious  woman,  upon  hearing  of  the  remarkable  cures 
of  those  who  had  visited  the  shrine,  invoked  the  bless- 
ing of  the  saint,  when  she  was  cured  of  the  disease 
which  had  bent  her  nearly  double. 

Then  miracle  after  miracle  followed,  until  the  sleepy  little 
hollow  was  the  talk  of  all  New  France.  Soldiers,  as  they  paced 
their  beat  on  the  fort,  looked  down  the  river  as  if  they  expected  to 


246  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

see  a  vision.  The  peasantry  grouped  together  in  large  family- 
circles,  just  as  they  love  to  do  to-day,  and  as  the  big  logs  crackled 
in  the  great  fireplace,  some  one  who  had  been  to  the  shrine  re- 
counted his  experiences  and  gave  free  rein  to  his  imagination,  while 
all  piously  crossed  themselves  when  he  had  concluded.  Pilgrims 
flocked  to  the  New  World  wonder  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  during 
the  seventeenth  century  there  were  never  less  than  a  thousand  on 
the  feast  day  of  Ste.  Anne.  At  all  seasons  of  the  year,  individual 
pilgrims  were  seen  going  afoot  along  the  Cote  de  Beaupr^,  and  in 
winter  in  their  sleighs  on  the  frozen  river.  The  Micmac  Indians 
came  regularly  from  New  Brunswick  for  trade,  and  before  feast 
days  their  canoes  were  seen  coming  up  the  stream  to  the  shrine, 
where  they  built  birch-bark  huts  to  shelter  the  pilgrims.  In  fact, 
the  whole  country  was  excited  by  the  mystery,  and  many  churches 
were  built  in  honour  of  the  saint.  It  was  a  regular  custom  of  vessels 
ascending  the  St.  Lawrence  to  fire  a  broadside  salute  when  passing 
the  place.  .  .  .  We,  who  live  in  this  age  of  electricity,  and  who 
affect  to  be  beyond  astonishment,  but  gape  at  every  new  sensation  as 
if  the  world  was  yet  in  its  teens,  may  imagine  the  thrill  of  wonder 
which  would  run  through  the  minds  of  the  simple  peasantry,  and 
the  superstitious  voyageurs,  when  the  miracles  were  told. 

For  a  time  the  virtues  of  this  Canadian  Mecca 
seemed  to  wane,  but  the  pendulum  that  swings  out 
must  return,  and  again  Ste.  Anne  is  enjoying  her 
sacred  rights  with  an  ever-increasing  following,  as  wit- 
nessed in  the  silent  but  eloquent  tokens  heaped  high 
at  her  door  by  those  who  have  come  crippled  and  gone 
away  with  light  steps  and  lighter  hearts ;  as  witnessed 
by  the  constant  praise  sung  in  her  name  and  the  long 
train  who  come  and  go  with  believing  minds. 

Leaving  this  dreamy  picture  behind  the  village  of 
Beauport,  with  its  historical  memories  rising  vividly 
before  us,  there  flashes  on  our  sight  a  cluster  of  pic- 
turesque cottages,  above  which  rises   the  ever-present 


Between  Cap  Tourmente  and  Beauport    247 

companion  of  these  rural  hamlets,  a  church  with  twin 
spires.  In  the  distance,  set  in  a  frame  of  pine  and 
hemlocks,  with  white  birches  peeping  out  between,  the 
background  is  veiled  by  the  yellow  curtain  of  Mont- 
morency Falls.  Resting  on  pillars  of  fragile  buoyancy 
that  forever  tremble  but  never  tumble,  the  bended 
sheet  of  river,  fifty  feet  in  width,  drops  a  sheer  descent 
of  220  feet,  and  without  ado,  as  if  it  had  done  nothing 
uncommon,  glides  down  to  meet  the  St.  Lawrence. 
The  charm  of  this  delightful  waterfall  does  not  lie  in 
the  depth  or  the  volume  of  the  cataract,  but  rather  in 
the  transparency  of  its  flood  which  looks  like  a  silver  foil 
laid  lightly  over  the  grey  rock,  and  worn  so  thin  by 
constant  friction  that  its  delicate  tissues  seem  about  to 
break  asunder.  It  is  not  less  beautiful  in  winter  than 
in  summer,  and  after  flinging  its  mists  over  tree  and 
shrub,  it  glistens  in  the  sunbeams  like  a  mine  of 
diamonds. 


Chapter  XVIII 
Picturesque  Quebec 

A  Peopled  Cliff — The  Lower  Town — A  Spiral  Street — Cape  Diamond — The  Cita- 
del— A  Relic  of  Bunker  Hill — Rare  Panorama  of  Country — Memorable  Trip 
of  Major  Fitzgerald — His  Unhappy  Love  Romance — "Ribbon  Farms" — 
Scene  of  Cartier's  "White  Winter" — Two  Acres  of  Clover,  Daisies,  and 
Buttercups — Road  toCharlesbourg — Chateau  de  Beaumanoir — Ruins,  Flowers, 
and  Vines — Historic  Names — Story  of  the  Acadian  Maid — Old  Fortress — Its 
Secret  Passage — Plains  of  Abraham. 

THE  scenes  briefly  sketched,  with  many  more  as 
deserving  of  mention,  pass  successively  in  re- 
view, and  then  Quebec,  the  soul  of  "  Our  Lady 
of  the  Snow,"  breaks  upon  the  vision.  Gone  in  a 
moment  are  the  pictures,  but  not  the  memories,  of  the 
lower  river.  Now  the  o-rand  and  beautiful  blend  in  a 
harmony  that  is  never  forgotten.  Above  the  river 
rises  a  massive  wall  of  rock  over  three  hundred  feet  in 
height,  and  bidding  defiance  to  the  world.  "  Que  bee  !  " 
("What  a  beak  !  ")  exclaimed  one  of  Cartier's  followers, 
and  the  name  has  clung  to  it  ever  since.  That  alone 
has  remained  unchanged.  It  is  now  a  cliff  populated  ; 
an  unassorted  mass  of  rocks,  roofs,  ramparts,  fortified 
walls,  pointed  spires,  and  ominous  muzzles  of  guns  more 
curious  than  dangerous.  Gone  are  the  ancient  walnuts  ; 
varnished    are    the    shades   that    peopled    them.       Yet 

to-day  the  scene  is  picturesque — Canadian — yesterday 

248 


'f:-      ,>v/*, 


CAPE  DIAMOND,   SHOWING  TABLET  TO  THE  MEMORY  OF  MONTGOMERY. 
From  a  photograph  by  Livernois,  Quebec. 


Picturesque  Quebec  ,         249 

framed  in  the  present.     The  keen-sighted  Thoreau  ex- 
claimed, in  describing  the  scenery  about  Quebec : 

The  fortifications  of  Cape  Diamond  are  omnipresent.  They 
preside,  they  frown  over  the  river  and  the  surrounding  country. 
You  travel  ten,  twenty,  thirty  miles  up  or  down  the  river's  banks, 
you  ramble  fifteen  miles  amid  the  hills  on  either  side,  and  then, 
when  you  have  long  since  forgotten  them,  perchance  slept  on  them 
by  the  way,  at  a  turn  of  the  road  or  of  your  body,  there  they  are 
still,  with  their  geometry  against  the  sky. 

Cape  Diamond,  which,  by  the  way,  somewhat  re- 
minds us  of  another  promontory  by  that  name  in  mid- 
Pacific,  is  a  rock-wedge,  composed  of  grey  granite 
mixed  with  quartz  and  a  species  of  dark-coloured  slate, 
thrust  down  between  the  St.  Lawrence  and  St.  Charles 
rivers.  Something  of  its  rugged  grimness  is  softened 
by  patches  of  shrubs  that  somehow  find  sustenance 
on  its  Roman  features,  giving  it  the  appearance  of  a 
bearded  Titan. 

At  the  base  of  this  huge  bulwark,  forming  the 
"  Gibraltar  of  America,"  lies  the  "  Lower  Town,"  with 
its  narrow  streets,  its  weather-stained  dwellings,  its 
warehouses,  breathless  life,  bustle,  and  confusion,  flanked 
by  the  stone  stairways  leading  to  sunlight  and  the  rare- 
fied atmosphere  above,  and  fronted  by  the  river  piers, 
harbour,  and  a  mixed  collection  of  water-craft.  Here 
exist  the  bone  and  sinew  of  the  city.  This  lower  section 
has  been  compared  to  some  parts  of  Edinburgh.  It  is 
connected  with  the  "  Upper  Town "  by  Cote  de  la 
Montagife^ox  Mountain  Street,  which,  until  within  thirty 
or  forty  years,  has  not  been  passable  for  carriages. 


250  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Leaving  this  spiral  street,  up  which  have  cHmbed  so 
many  in  the  past,  not  a  few  of  whom  were  burdened 
with  cares  and  responsibihties  greater  than  the  fate  of 
their  own  Hves,  to  the  teams  and  the  pedestrians,  we 
follow  along  the  narrow  street  running  under  the  frown- 
ing cliff.  What  if  the  way  is  narrow,  and  the  houses 
claim  so  much  !  Every  foot  of  this  earth  has  been  a 
gift  from  the  river — a  precious  gift,  with  that  crouching 
rock  looking  jealously  down  upon  it.  It  must  have 
been  just  below  this  spot  where  Donnacona  and  his 
dusky  followers  pushed  out  in  their  canoes  to  greet 
Cartier  on  his  first  visit.  It  was  somewhere  close 
by  that  weather-beaten  building  that  Champlain,  with 
his  own  hand,  felled  the  first  walnut  tree  preparatory  to 
founding  his  capital  of  New  France.  Up  that  zigzag 
pathway  climbed  Montgomery,  with  the  snow  blinding 
his  eyes,  to  his  inevitable  fate. 

We  ascend  to  the  summit  of  the  rocky  bulwark  by 
the  wooden  stairway,  counting  one  hundred  and  sixty- 
four  steps,  and  are  glad  there  is  not  another. 

The  bold  promontory  upon  which  we  now  stand  em- 
braces an  area  of  about  forty  acres.  The  most  strik- 
ing feature  is  naturally  the  citadel,  with  its  continuous 
granite  wall  running  along  the  very  brow  of  the  height, 
flanked  with  towers  and  bastions  commanding  both  the 
St.  Lawrence  and  the  St.  Charles  rivers.  The  new- 
comer cannot  be  other  than  impressed  with  the  solid 
appearance  of  this  wall,  built  before  the  independence 
of  America  was  won. 


Picturesque  Quebec  251 

The  citadel  has  been  so  often  described  that  another 
detailed  account  would  seem  superfluous.  But  its  lofty 
situation,  if  nothing  else,  demands  attention,  and  gives 
to  the  visitor  one  of  the  finest  prospects  to  be  found  in 
any  land.  The  "boys"  about  the  barracks  are  light- 
hearted  and  care-free,  though  life  here,  with  its  steady 
round  of  duty,  has  its  monotony.  Among  the  objects 
of  curiosity  pointed  out  to  the  sight-seer,  is  a  brass 
piece  the  British  captured  from  the  New  England 
troops  at  Bunker  Hill.  It  does  not  look  very  formida- 
ble, and  a  strong  man  might  carry  it  off  under  his  arm. 

The  view  from  this  historic  lookout  is  one  of  im- 
pressive interest,  varied  in  its  diversity  of  scenery  and 
grand  in  its  effect.  The  St.  Lawrence,  majestic  and 
magnificent  as  ever,  unfolds  its  broad  band  of  glistening 
water,  over  which  craft  of  every  kind,  from  the  birch 
skiff  of  the  dusky  native  to  the  palace  steamer  of  tourist 
travel,  lend  motion  and  vivacity  to  the  picture,  and 
speak  not  only  of  the  present  but  of  the  past  when  the 
aborigines  were  lords  of  the  wilderness.  Midway,  in 
the  stream  below,  lies  the  Isle  of  Orleans  in  plain  view, 
while  across  the  river  rises  Point  Levis,  rivalling  but 
not  equalling  Cape  Diamond  in  its  bold  front,  breasting 
the  water  like  a  lion  crouching  at  bay.  Beyond  this 
height,  which  is  the  site  of  a  populous  community, 
stretches  a  country  noted  for  its  beauty  and  tranquillity 
of  surface.  Unconsciously  the  mind  is  carried  back  to 
the  day  when  this  was  an  unpeopled  wilderness,  and  to 
that  wintry  journey  made  on    snow-shoes  through  its 


252  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

trackless  depths  from  Frederickton  to  Quebec,  a  dis- 
tance of  175  miles,  by  Major  Fitzgerald,  soon  after  the 
closing  act  of  the  American  Revolution.  He  had  been 
an  officer  under  Lord  Rawdon,  and  served  with  dis- 
tinction at  Eutaw  Springs,  where  he  was  wounded. 
Upon  reaching  Quebec  with  his  message,  without  stop- 
ping to  recuperate  he  continued  into  the  western 
country,  guided  now  by  his  staunch  friend.  Brant.  Pro- 
ceeding to  Michilimackinac,  and  then  reaching  the 
Mississippi,  he  followed  down  the  river  to  New  Orleans. 
From  there  he  hastened  home  to  greet  the  loved  one 
who  he  fondly  believed  was  awaiting  anxiously  his 
return.  Alas  !  for  man's  dreams  and  woman's  forget- 
fulness,  he  was  met  at  her  father's  door  by  the  faithless 
sweetheart  and — her  husband  !  Crushed  by  the  blow, 
he  rejoined  the  army,  to  fall  a  martyr  to  the  cause  of 
Ireland  a  few  years  later.  He  was  more  fortunate  in 
having  the  eloquent  Tom  Moore  for  his  biographer, 
the  latter  himself  visiting,  in  1804,  a  portion  of  the 
country  traversed  by  his  friend,  giving  a  memorial  of 
his  trip  in  his  immortal  Canadian  Boat-Song  and  other 
poems  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Slowly  the  eye  continues  to  follow  the  great  river 
winding  sluggishly  through  the  valley,  bounded  on  the 
south  by  the  distant  backbone  of  the  Appalachian 
Mountains  whose  far  slopes  reach  down  to  the  shores  of 
ancient  Vinland,  and  on  the  north  by  the  Laurentides, 
the  oldest  mountains  known  to  geologists,  looming 
peak  beyond  peak,  until  lost  to  shape  and  sight  in  the 


Picturesque  Quebec  253 

distance,  and  where  the  vision  stops  the  imagination 
carries  the  fancy  forward  to  the  vast  wilderness  sweep- 
ing on  in  majestic  silence  to  the  frozen  pole. 

Looking  over  the  gabled  roofs  and  dormer  windows, 
the  minarets  of  the  naval  academy,  and  the  spires  of 
the  churches,  with  here  and  there  a  glimpse  of  some 
narrow  street  winding  upward  until,  as  if  tired  of  the 
attempt  to  reach  the  top,  it  had  tumbled  back  to  lie 
crumbled  and  distorted  amid  the  debris  of  streets  and 
buildings  and  rocks,  a  vivid  picture  is  gained  of  the 
Lower  Town.  Quebec,  as  it  is  the  only  walled  city  in 
America,  is  possibly  less  American  than  any  city  north 
of  Mexico.  It  certainly  appeals  to  the  new-comer  as  no 
other  American  city  does,  and  he  goes  away  with  that 
impression  strengthened.  While  it  may  not  be  able 
to  boast  the  ancient  castles  of  a  Hamburg  or  a  Hei- 
delberg, with  the  moss  upon  its  grey  walls,  the  lichens 
upon  its  battlements,  the  slimy  moats  around  its  citadel, 
the  legends  of  a  day  that  may  never  have  been,  it  has  a 
suggestion  of  mediaevalism  older  than  the  Middle  Ages 
and  rendered  more  attractive  on  account  of  its  modern 
setting.  It  requires  no  imagination  to  be  made  to  be- 
lieve that  the  town  at  your  feet  is  a  corner  of  Old 
France,  and  that  the  rock  beneath  them  is  older  than 
Europe  ! 

As  the  gaze  roams  northward  from  the  rounded 
shoulder  of  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  beautiful  and  filled  with 
memories,  it  rests  upon  the  long  street  of  Beauport, 
where   the   landscape    is   adorned    with    metal-covered 


254  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

cottages,  whose  heavy  roofs,  Hke  bats'  wings,  reach  down 
to  shelter  the  unrailed  verandas,  Old-World  features 
of  some  Swiss  village  or  corner  in  Brittany.  The  sim- 
ple dress  of  the  people,  their  quaint  speech,  their  pict- 
uresque manner,  each  help  to  complete  the  suggestion. 
The  roads  around  Quebec  are  well  kept,  while  the 
plank  sidewalks  add  to  the  pleasure  of  the  tourist  who 
chooses  to  go  amid  these  scenes  on  foot.  Down  on 
the  flat,  within  sight  and  sound  of  the  Falls  of  Mont- 
morency, the  combined  French  and  Indian  forces  ral- 
lied to  beat  back  that  adventure-mad  New  Englander, 
Phips,  who  thought  to  surprise  the  northern  eagle  in 
his  eyrie.  And  there,  too,  was  fought  the  prelude 
to  Wolfe's  far-reaching  victory  upon  the  Plains  of 
Abraham. 

Farther  away,  edged  by  the  rounded  horizon,  lies 
what  looks  like  a  fine  agricultural  country,  with  its 
"  ribbon  farms,"  low- walled  cottages,  and  green  fields 
white-starred  with  daisies.  To  the  west  of  these  winds 
down  from  the  interior  the  St.  Charles,  the  river  of  ro- 
mance. At  its  mouth  Cartier  moored  his  briny  cara- 
vels, and  a  little  higher  up  he  went  into  camp  for  that 
long,  tedious  "white  winter."  A  monument  to  his 
memory  now  marks  the  place.  Just  across  the  river, 
upon  the  intervale  farms  that  lie  between  the  stream 
and  the  road  running  northward,  leading  to  the  ruins 
of  Beaumanoir,  we  saw,  only  a  few  days  since,  one  of 
nature's  most  beautiful  flower-gardens,  two  acres  of 
crimson  clover,  star-eyed  daisies,  and  yellow  buttercups, 


THE  BREAK-NECK  STEPS,   QUEBEC. 


Picturesque  Quebec  255 

the  three  standing  evenly  shoulder  to  shoulder.  Never 
did  colours  blend  more  happily,  and  never  was  sweeter 
fragrance  wafted  on  the  amorous  breeze  of  June.  Here 
was  a  flower  for  each  conquest  of  Canada,  and  the 
brightest  was  the  last. 

Following  up  this  delightful  road  bordered  with 
white  dairies  and  that  fleur-de-lis  of  Canadian  flowers, 
the  buttercup,  some  five  miles  from  the  Dorchester 
bridge  spanning  the  St.  Charles,  reposes  to-day,  under 
the  shadows  of  Charlesbourg  Mountain,  a  pile  of  ru- 
ins called  by  the  English  "  The  Hermitage ";  by  the 
French,  "  The  Mansion  of  the  Mountain."  In  the  days 
of  its  glory  it  was  more  poetically  known  as  Beau- 
manoir,  and  it  was  here  that  the  infamous  Bigot,  with 
his  boon  companions,  held  his  secret  councils  and  car- 
ousals to  the  shame  of  New  France,  and  which  more 
than  all  else  led  to  her  downfall.  In  those  days  noble 
old  forests  composed  of  giant  oaks,  whose  seamed  and 
weather-beaten  bodies  showed  ample  proof  of  long 
lives  ;  lofty  elms,  with  wide-spreading  tops  that  tipped 
their  tapering  branches  with  becoming  grace  ;  dark  pines 
that  wore  for  ever  a  frown,  as  if  bidding  defiance  to  the 
axe  of  the  woodsman  who  had  already  turned  his  gaze 
hitherward,  surrounded  the  gay  palace,  which,  with  its 
adjacent  buildings,  covered  an  area  as  large  as  a  small 
town,  the  collection  forming  a  square,  illuminated  by 
beautiful  gardens. 

The  Chateau  of  Beaumanoir  was  built  of  stone 
like   most   of   the   buildings    of    its   time,   gabled   and 


(y 


256  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

pointed  in  the  style  of  architecture  then  prevaiHng.  It 
had  been  erected  by  the  first  Intendant  of  New  France, 
Jean  Talon,  the  patron  of  the  gallant  explorer,  La  Salle, 
as  a  retreat  for  him  to  flee  to  when  worried  with  the 
cares  of  his  high  office  that  afforded  him  so  small  a 
meed  of  satisfaction,  owing  to  the  indifference  the 
mother  country  paid  to  her  offspring.  Among  the 
famous  persons  who  made  historic  this  old  hall  were 
Sieur  Joliet,  who  came  here  to  relate  his  wonderful  ex- 
ploits in  the  untrodden  West ;  here,  also,  came  Father 
Marquette  to  recount  to  his  wondering  listeners  his 
stories,  that  sounded  like  fables,  of  that  majestic  river 
styled  "The  Father  of  Waters";  while  from  here  the 
intrepid  La  Salle,  the  most  chivalrous  of  them  all,  set 
forth  on  his  romantic  mission  to  explore  the  mysterious 
stream  and  claim  it  in  the  name  of  his  King.  Then, 
when  its  illustrious  company,  of  which  these  were  only 
a  trio  among  a  score,  had  gone  the  way  of  shadows, 
the  ancient  edifice  became  dishonoured  by  the  ignoble 
presence  of  those  who  boasted  of  the  ruin  and  not  of 
the  glory  of  the  fair  empire  intrusted  to  their  keeping. 
Could  their  language  have  been  interpreted,  what  tales 
of  infamous  scenes  these  walls  would  have  told  ! 

The  chateau  was  entered  by  a  wide  gate  set  at  the 
end  of  a  broad  avenue,  overhung  by  a  lofty  hedge, 
trimmed  into  fantastic  figures  after  the  manner  of  the 
gates  of  Luxembourg.  The  main  building,  as  has 
been  said,  was  set  in  the  midst  of  gardens  of  luxurious 
growth,  squares,  circles,  and  polygons  radiant  through 


Picturesque  Quebec  257 

the  summer  months  with  flowers  of  varied  beauty  and 
fragrance.  The  hedges  were  filled  with  fruit  trees  that 
might  well  have  graced  the  orchards  of  the  old  country, 
all  of  which,  indeed,  had  been  brought  from  France  by 
the  thoughtful  Talon.  In  their  season  were  cherries, 
red  and  luscious  as  those  that  thrived  in  the  gardens  of 
Brittany ;  plums  that  vied  with  the  rare  sweetness  of 
their  sisters  in  Gascony  ;  pears  from  the  famous  fruitage 
of  the  Rhone  valley ;  and  apples  rivalling  in  their  soft 
tints  the  rosy  cheeks  of  the  fair  maids  of  Normandy. 
But  if  environed  by  a  prodigal  display  of  beauty  and 
sunshine,  the  chateau  stood  the  very  image  of  gloom. 
Its  massive  doors  were  ever  kept  bolted  and  barred ;  its 
mullioned  windows  close-shut,  as  if  it  were  a  dungeon 
holding  within  its  walls  unhappy  victims  denied  their 
freedom. 

If  there  is  any  truth  in  local  tradition  this  was,  in  fact, 
the  case  concerning  one  fair  life,  too  pure,  too  beautiful 
to  mingle  with  the  wicked  world.  She  was  the  child  of 
De  Castin,  that  high  and  noble  founder  of  the  name  in 
Acadia.  Her  mother  was  the  daughter  of  an  Abnaki 
chief,  and,  like  a  true  forest  princess,  was  every  way 
worthy  of  her  liege  lord.  This  daughter  possessed  all 
of  the  comeliness  of  person  belonging  to  her  mother, 
and  the  dignity  of  her  proud  father.  As  she  grew  to 
womanhood,  her  personal  charms  and  manner  more 
than  fulfilling  the  promise  of  girlhood,  the  Castin  man- 
sion became  the  popular  resort  of  persons  of  distinction 
connected  with  the  affairs  of  the  colony.     Among  others 


258  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

came  Fran9ois  Bigot,  Chief  Commissary  of  the  Army, 
then  looked  upon  as  an  honoured  officer  of  his  King. 
An  attachment  quickly  sprang  up  between  this  couple, 
sincere  and  lifelong  with  the  one,  a  passing  whim  with 
the  other,  but  sufficiently  sincere  to  afford  amusement 
for  a  time  that  might  otherwise  have  been  wearisome. 
Leaving  his  post  here  in  disgrace.  Chevalier  Bigot  no 
doubt  thouorht  that  his  little  love  romance  was  over. 
But  he  had  not  come  to  realise  the  depth  of  a  woman's 
love  and  the  sacrifice  she  was  willino-  to  make  for  him 
who  had  enthralled  her  very  soul.  He  left  her,  as  he 
supposed,  to  languish  in  silence  and  inactivity  ;  but  it 
was  not  long  after  he  had  come  to  Quebec,  in  1748,  in 
spite  of  his  infamy  elsewhere,  to  defame  the  already 
smirched  name  of  New  France,  that  he  learned  that  a 
very  beautiful  woman  had  been  seen  about  the  city.  He 
gave  no  thought  to  her,  however,  until  one  day,  while 
hunting  in  the  vicinity  of  Beaumanoir,  he  met  her  in  the 
forest  and  recognised  her  who  was  entitled  to  be  his 
wife.  It  chanced  that  he  was  alone  at  the  time,  and,  not 
caring  to  have  his  companions  learn  of  his  intrigue,  un- 
able to  induce  her  to  go  away,  he  escorted  her  to  the 
chateau.  There  she  remained  practically  a  prisoner 
during  the  troublesome  times  that  followed,  and  until  it 
was  rumoured  that  she  had  been  murdered  by  one  of  his 
agents.  Let  that  be  as  it  may.  Bigot  has  been  charged 
with  quite  enough  for  one  man  to  meet  at  the 
judgment. 

Slightly  removed  from  the  chateau,  but  according  to 


o- 


c      be 

w    2 

H      o 


Picturesque  Quebec  259 

story  connected  by  an  underground  passage,  stood  a 
tower  of  stone  masonry,  its  walls  filled  with  loopholes 
and  crowned  with  a  crenelated  crest.  This  had  been 
built  as  a  place  of  refuge  and  defence  during  the  Indian 
attacks  in  the  days  of  the  Iroquois  invasions.  The  little 
fortress  had  proved  invulnerable  to  them ;  but  the  suns 
and  the  storms  of  the  passing  years  proved  more  destruc- 
tive than  the  primitive  armament  of  the  dusky  warriors, 
so  that  long  since  it  crumbled  and  fell.  Little  remains 
now  of  Beaumanoir — a  ruined  corner  of  wall  here,  a 
gable  there,  a  few  unsightly  mounds,  the  red  alders 
creeping  over  fallen  buildings,  the  ugliness  of  the 
crumbling  masonry  relieved  by  the  innocent  faces  of 
Canadian  violets  and  illuminated  by  star-flowers,  or  half 
concealed  by  thick  moss  and  tall  grass,  where  the  birds 
build  their  nests  and  the  winds  sigh  a  frequent  requiem 
over  the  loss  of  an  empire  standing  upon  corruption  and 
depotism.  There  are  those  who  claim  that  the  desola- 
tion of  the  unhappy  place  is  made  more  pathetic  by  the 
haunting  presence  of  the  most  innocent  and  beautiful 
life  that  perished  amid  the  downfall  of  human  hopes. 


Chapter  XIX 
Sights  and  Shrines  of  Quebec 

Monuments  to  Wolfe,  Montcalm,  and  ''  Attx  Braves  "— Ste.  Foye  Road— Mount 
Hermon — Chateau  St.  Louis — Portraits  of  Celebrities — Chateau  Frontenac — 
"  The  Golden  Dog  "—Story  of  M.  Phillibert- University  of  Laval—"  Notre 
Dame  des  Victoires  "—Graves  of  Richelieu  and  Laval— A  Winter  Night- 
Laughter  and  Good  Cheer. 

THE  gaze  reluctantly  turning  away  from  the 
direction  of  Charlesbourg,  with  its  ruins  and 
memories,  naturally  seeks  that  battlefield  where 
the  course  of  infamy  ended  in  disaster.  The  Plains  of 
Abraham  are  a  fitting  resting-place  for  heroes,  and  it 
needs  no  modern  historian  to  tell  the  glory  of  those  who 
fill  them.  Recent  research  has,  however,  done  much 
toward  correcting  the  errors  perpetuated  by  careless 
chroniclers  contemporaneous  with  the  scenes  which  they 
attempted  to  describe.  A  plain  shaft  marks  the  spot 
where,  according  to  late-day  investigations,  the  victor 
did  not  fall.  But  the  matter  of  a  few  hundred  yards, 
more  or  less,  from  the  exact  spot  does  not  matter. 
Wolfe  does  not  need  such  a  monument.  Behind  Duf- 
ferin  Terrace,  in  the  governor's  garden,  another  granite 
column  adds  the  part  of  a  monument  to  keep  green  the 
story,  with  the  simple  inscription  :  "  In  memory  of  Wolfe 
and   Montcalm."     Not  often   is  the  name  of  the  van- 

260 


-""^M 


Sights  and  Shrines  of  Quebec  261 

qiiished  linked  so  harmoniously  with  that  of  his  con- 
queror, until  at  this  not  very  distant  day  it  is  not  worth 
weighing  the  difference  to  find  whose  fame  is  the 
greater.  Two  miles  above  the  Lower  Town  a  break  in 
the  massive  wall  affords  room  for  that  convenient  path- 
way where  both  Wolfe  and  Arnold  climbed  to  dare  the 
enemy  intrenched  upon  the  height.  Had  the  action  of 
the  foe  in  each  case  been  reversed — Montcalm  remaining 
behind  his  defences  and  Cramache  seeking  battle  on  the 
open  plain — who  can  say  that  Canada  would  not  now 
be  a  part  of  the  United  States  instead  of  Great  Britain, 
and  Arnold,  not  Wolfe,  the  great  figure  in  its  history  ? 
Possibly  this  historic  and  momentous  pathway,  which 
seems  to  have  been  designed  as  the  key  to  Cape  Dia- 
mond's fortified  heights,  is  not  so  abrupt  and  difficult 
of  ascent  as  your  historian,  aided  by  your  imagination, 
has  pictured  it  to  you.  Such  places  become,  upon  close 
inspection,  wanting  in  some  of  the  wilder  and  more  im- 
practicable parts.  Putnam's  ride  at  Breakneck  Stairs 
was  really  a  tame  affair  compared  to  what  it  has  been 
described.  But  a  hero's  fame  rises  above  such  minor 
facts.  Like  the  rhyme  and  rhythm  of  great  poets,  their 
deeds  are  entitled  to  certain  licenses  of  description. 
Then  it  must  be  remembered  that  nearly  one  hundred 
and  fifty  years  have  softened  the  rugged  trail.  May 
the  day  be  hastened  when  the  Plains  of  Abraham  shall 
be  reserved  for  a  public  park  ! 

Beyond  the  scene  of  this  overshadowing  victory  is 
the  battlefield  of  Ste.  Foye,  where  De  Levis  won  his 


262  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

victory  over  Murray  in  1760,  and  which  was  an  inter- 
esting outcome  of  Wolfe's  campaign.  It  is  sometimes 
called  "the  second  battle  of  the  plains."  This  place  is 
marked  by  a  monument  "  To  the  Brave,"  erected  by 
Prince  Napoleon  Bonaparte  in  1854.  It  is  a  tall  pillar 
of  iron,  surmounted  by  a  figure  of  Bellona,  the  Roman 
goddess  of  war,  and  with  the  fraternal  feelings  which 
mark  so  many  of  the  Canadian  memorials  it  is  gener- 
ously inscribed  to  the  memory  of  both  sides,  the  in- 
scription reading  simply  : 

AUX    BRAVES. 

Quebec  has  many  pretty  walks,  but  none  prettier 
than  that  which  leads  through  the  gate  of  St.  John  and 
follows  along  the  Ste.  Foye  road,  beneath  a  leafy  ave- 
nue bordered  with  neat  villas,  until  a  slight  eminence  is 
reached  where  Murray  made  his  reckless  charge,  with 
the  slush  and  April  snow  knee-deep,  quickly  crimsoned 
with  the  blood  of  the  heroes  who  fell  on  every  hand. 
Near  by  are  the  Martello  towers. 

A  visit  to  a  battlefield  seems  to  be  fitly  followed  by 
one  to  a  "City  of  Silence."  There  can  be  no  more 
beautiful  cemetery  than  "  Mount  Hermon,"  planned  by 
an  American  gentleman.  Major  Douglas,  and  almost 
equal  in  area  to  the  Plains  of  Abraham.  It  commands 
a  fine  view,  and  among  the  noted  persons  who  have 
found  resting-places  here  may  be  mentioned  the  famous 
Scottish  vocalist,  John  Wilson,  and  the  Reverend  Daniel 
Wilkie,  LL.D.,  the  celebrated  preceptor  of  youth. 


I 


Sights  and  Shrines  of  Quebec  263 

But  leaving  the  city  of  the  dead  and  the  monuments 
of  heroes,  the  eye  falls  upon  Quebec's  famous  terrace, 
which  was  laid  out  by  the  Earl  of  Durham,  to  be  en- 
larged and  improved  by  Lord  Dufferin,  whose  name  it 
now  bears.  Under  this  terrace  are  yet  to  be  seen  the 
foundations  of  that  ancient  Chateau  St.  Louis,  built  by 
Champlain  and  destroyed  by  fire  in  1834.  This  notable 
building  was  for  about  two  centuries  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment, and  within  its  walls  transpired  some  of  the  most 
momentous  scenes  in  the  history  of  New  France.  Its 
great  hall  has  been  described  as  palatial  in  its  dimen- 
sions and  adornments.  Its  high  walls,  set  with  deep 
panels  of  wainscoting,  and  hung  with  paintings  of  his- 
toric interest,  were  relieved  by  huge  pillars  of  polished 
oak,  lifting  high  overhead  the  lofty  ceiling,  tinted  a 
deep  blue,  and  ornamented  by  delicate  carvings  of 
ebony-wood.  Among  the  richly  coloured  portraits  were 
the  searching  features  of  Cartier,  with  his  pointed  beard, 
sharp  nose,  and  flashing  eyes,  as  if  still  peering  up  the 
rapids  of  the  mighty  river  he  had  discovered  ;  there 
was  Champlain,  his  handsome  countenance  touched 
softly  with  the  radiance  of  clear,  dark  eyes,  and  framed 
in  with  a  profusion  of  long,  waving  hair,  giving  slight 
token  of  the  fire  that  burned  in  his  restless  brain  ;  Louis 
Baude  de  Frontenac,  keen  of  feature  and  as  gallant  of 
look  as  in  life,  while  beside  him  was  the  beautiful  woman 
whom  he  acknowledged  as  his  wife  but  whose  company 
he  ignored;  the  unselfish  Talon,  noblest  of  the  Intend- 
ants ;  the  courtly  La  Salle,  to  whom  New  France  owed 


264  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

so  much  in  the  West ;  Laval,  the  first  bishop,  the  father 
of  education  in  the  colony  ;  and  not  far  away  that  faith- 
ful founder  of  schools  and  the  first  superior  of  the  Ur- 
sulines  in  Quebec,  Mere  Marie  de  I'lncarnation  ;  the 
stern,  resolute,  all-ambitious  Louis  the  Great  of  France, 
with  many  other  men  of  note, — kings,  governors,  in- 
tendants,  explorers,  and  builders  of  New  France. 

Of  all  this  and  much  more  that  has  never  been  told 
exists  only  a  shade.  Near  its  site  stands  a  modern 
structure,  the  Chateau  Frontenac,  one  of  the  finest 
hotels  in  the  world.  In  the  yard  in  front  of  this,  look- 
ing calmly  down  upon  the  beholder,  stands  a  massive 
memorial  to  Champlain.  Just  below,  at  this  writing, 
another  fitting  tribute  is  being  raised  to  the  memory  of 
that  truly  great  and  good  man,  Laval.  Near  by  stands 
the  post-ofiice,  a  modern  enough  building  of  stone,  yet 
holding  within  its  walls  a  block  of  granite  from  that 
ancient  building  once  standing  on  its  site  and  known  by 
the  unpoetical  name  of  Le  Chien  d' Or,  or  "  The  Golden 
Dog."  This  legend-haunted  house  was  made  the  scene 
of  one  of  Quebec's  most  famous  books,  and  everything 
relating  to  it  is  redolent  with  romance.  It  was  built  by 
a  M.  Phlllibert,  a  merchant  coming  to  Quebec  from 
Bordeaux  in  the  unhappy  days  of  Bigot,  the  infamous 
Intendant.  M.  Phlllibert,  with  the  cause  of  the  com- 
mon people  at  heart,  undertook  to  break  down  the 
power  of  the  dishonest  ring  which  was  ruining  New 
France.  Over  the  door  to  the  entrance  of  his  great 
store,  where  was  to  be  found  every  commodity  needed 


I 


Sights  and  Shrines  of  Quebec  265 

by  the  people  on  sale  at  reasonable  prices,  he  caused  to 
be  represented  in  relief  the  fiorure  of  a  doe  enawino- 
a  bone,  under  which  were  the  following  lines : 

Je  svis  vn  chien  qvi  rouge  mon  os 
En  le  rongeant,  je  prends  tnon  repos, 
Vnjovr  viendra  qvi  n  est  pas  encore  venv, 
Ov  Je  tnordrai  celvi  qvi  ffiavra  mordv. 

So  stoutly  did  M.  Phillibert  fight  Intendant  Bigot  that 
the  latter  finally  turned  against  him,  and,  according  to 
story,  hired  him  assassinated,  a  brother  of  his  beautiful 
but  unscrupulous  wife  performing  the  dastardly  deed. 

Standing  near  the  brink  of  rock  where  the  brave 
Montgomery  fell  is  the  University  of  Laval,  with  its 
triple  towers  and  a  cupola  of  cross-crowns.  This  is 
Quebec's  treasure-house  of  books,  relics,  and  pictures. 
It  was  founded  by  M.  de  Laval  de  Montmorenci,  in 
1636,  during  whose  lifetime  the  buildings  were  twice 
burned.  It  was  originally  intended  for  the  education 
of  Catholic  clergymen,  but  eventually  to  educate  all 
who  came.  Queen  Victoria,  in  1854,  raised  the  institu- 
tion to  the  status  of  a  university. 

Quebec  might  well  be  called  the  city  of  churches,  to 
mention  all  of  which  would  require  too  much  space. 
Near  the  market  in  the  Lower  Town  stands  one  of  the 
finest  buildings  of  worship  erected  in  America.  This 
church,  while  services  were  being  held  all  over  the 
city  in  praise  of  the  escape  from  the  attack  of  the 
New  England  forces  under  Phips,  was  dedicated  to 
Notre  Dame  de  la  Vidoire.     Twenty  years  later,  when 


266  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

another  scheme  of  conquest  was  undertaken,  and  Sir 
Hoveden  Walker's  fleet  of  fifteen  warships  was  wrecked 
at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  while  on  its  way  to 
capture  Quebec,  the  building  was  re-dedicated,  and  its 
name  made  to  take  a  plural  form,  Notre  Dafue  des 
Victoires.  The  gladdened  people  now  built  a  porch 
over  its  door. 

Near  where  this  stands  was  the  house  Champlain 
built  in  1608,  and  just  back  of  it  the  plot  where  he 
formed  the  first  garden  in  Canada.  Another  fine  edi- 
fice claiming  more  than  passing  attention  is  the  Ba- 
silica, built  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  church  of  Notre 
Dame  de  la  Recouvrance,  raised  by  Champlain  to  com- 
memorate the  restoration  of  New  France  by  Great 
Britain  following  its  conquest  by  Kertk.  Here  taught 
those  missionary  martyrs  Brebeuf,  Lalemant,  and  Mar- 
quette. The  remains  of  Richelieu  and  Laval  repose 
within  its  sacred  inclosure.  On  Garden  Street  is  the 
Ursuline  convent,  in  whose  chapel  rests  all  that  is  mor- 
tal of  Montcalm.  What  memories  cluster  round  these 
Meccas  of  the  mind  !  Quebec  has  done  well  in  marking 
these  hallowed  spots,  though  it  may  be  not  so  well  as 
Montreal.  There  are  outside  of  these  cities  many 
noted  places  throughout  the  provinces  which  deserve  to 
be  marked,  and  the  coming  generation  will  wonder  why 
it  is  not  done.  It  is  already  too  late  to  act  in  some 
cases,  but  others  can  yet  be  saved. 

Having  seen  Quebec  by  daylight  and  lamplight,  its 
sunshine  and  shadow,  one  other  phase  remains  to  be 


Sights  and  Shrines  of  Quebec  267 

met.  If  last  with  us,  It  is  not  least.  With  the  plains 
transformed  into  whitened  deserts,  the  forests  tufted 
with  the  crown  of  the  northern  goddess,  the  villages 
asleep  under  their  spotless  robes,  the  majestic  St.  Law- 
rence grinding  into  powder  its  vast  fields  of  ice,  the  whir 
of  mills  the  only  sound  that  comes  from  an  erstwhile 
busy  port,  defying  the  siege  of  the  North  King,  this 
Queen  of  the  Northland  appears  in  royal  grandeur. 
Her  subjects  now  light  their  home  fires  ;  the  sleigh-bells 
jingle  merrily  in  the  streets;  and  old  winter  is  braved 
and  dared  with  jest  and  good  cheer.  The  street  life  is, 
in  fact,  a  merry-go-round,  in  which  the  riders  are  fur- 
coated  giants,  as  cheery  as  warm  hearts  can  make  them. 
It  is  now  the  heyday  for  the  young  people,  who  can 
find  plenty  to  occupy  their  attention,  snow-shoeing, 
skating,  tobogganing,  and  coasting. 

No  hour  is  more  sacred  than  that  which  falls  upon  a 
wintry  sunset  like  a  winding-sheet  over  the  departing 
day.  The  view  obstructed  by  banks  of  snow,  by  the 
white  plumes  of  the  forest,  by  the  grey  dimness  growing 
deeper  and  deeper,  the  unseen  hand  of  Twilight  closes 
softly  the  portals  of  day.  The  whole  city  lies  in  a  huge 
muffler  reaching  to  its  throat,  but,  like  so  many  big, 
blinking  eyes,  the  dormer  windows  of  the  cottages  peep 
out  above  it.  Let  the  wild  wind  brush  you  with  its 
long,  hoary  beard  ;  let  the  solitude,  which  is  never  so 
near  as  then,  settle  upon  you  and  yours ;  in  the  west  are 
streamers  of  gold,  and  you  know  the  god  of  day  is 
banking  his  fire  for  the  night.     The  low,  sweet  melody 


268  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

of  the  Angelus  is  wafted  on  the  air  from  the  chapel  of 
the  nuns,  and  all  feelings  of  loneliness  instantly  leave 
you.  Let  the  street  become  deserted ;  let  the  sun 
cloak  with  darkness  his  light ;  so  long  as  the  bells  of 
humanity  ring  there  is  hope  and  gladness  in  the  old  city. 
Their  notes  are  the  heart-throbs  of  the  brave  and  the 
hopeful.  Soon  the  darkness  is  scintillated  with  the 
beams  of  the  rising  moon  ;  the  sky  takes  on  a  deeper 
blue  than  by  day  ;  the  snow-crystals  of  the  city  walls, 
the  whitened  roofs,  the  frosted  eaves,  one  and  all  spar- 
kle with  the  pure  radiance  of  the  new-born  queen,  until 
it  is  easy  to  fancy  that  this  city,  wrapped  in  its  winter 
mantle,  is  a  diamond  set  in  a  white  stone. 

So,  when  and  whither  we  turn,  the  picturesque, 
grand,  and  beautiful,  hallowed  with  sublime  memories, 
greet  our  vision  :  cliff  stairs  climbing  to  houses  in  mid- 
air ;  winding  streets  shadowed  by  quaint  roofs ;  gay 
market-places,  ringing  with  their  babel  of  voices  in  for- 
eign tongues ;  mounted  guns,  thundering  forth  their 
challenge  to  the  outside  world  at  sunrise ;  bands  in 
bright  uniforms  playing  the  march  of  the  setting  sun  ; 
bells  ringing  solemnly  at  the  close  of  day  ;  churches  and 
convents ;  walled  gardens  and  lilac-bordered  terraces  ; 
monuments  to  dead  heroes  ;  laughter  and  good  cheer 
for  the  living  ;  grand,  far-reaching  environments  that 
are  not  equalled  by  any  other  American  city ; — all  of 
these  and  many  more  sights  and  shrines  make  Quebec 
the  Empress  of  the  peerless  St.  Lawrence. 


I 


Chapter  XX 
From  Quebec  to  Montreal 

North  Bank — Sillery — Indian  Settlements  in  the  St.  Lawrence  Valley — St.  Francis 
— St.  Regis — Three  Rivers — Poetical  Names — An  Atmosphere  of  Age — Peas- 
ant Population — Three  Types — Early  Farmhouses — The  Harvest  Festival — 
Christmas-tide — A  True  Son  of  Old  Normandy. 

THE  high  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence  from  Cape 
Diamond  to  Cap  Rouge  is  composed  of  "  clay- 
slate,"  of  a  dark  brown  or  a  dull  red  colour,  from 
whence  comes  the  name  of  the  last  point  of  spurious 
earth.  The  bed  of  the  river  is  laid  with  the  same  species 
of  stone,  the  friction  of  the  waters  constantly  raising  fine 
particles  of  dust  to  the  surface  and  laying  these  in  thin 
sheets  upon  the  shore.  As  barren  of  true  soil  as  this 
long  frontage  of  steep  cliff  appears  to  be,  a  healthy 
growth  of  shrubs  and  trees  relieves  with  verdure  what 
must  otherwise  be  a  dreary  embankment. 

About  a  mile  above  Wolfe's  Cove  is  situated  the 
little  historic  village  of  Sillery,  where,  in  the  stormy 
days  of  that  Christian  conquest  of  Canada  made  mem- 
orable by  its  numerous  examples  of  a  faith  that  was  not 
bounded  by  human  suffering,  the  zealous  Jesuits  called 
about  them  the  wondering  Hurons,  who  listened,  with  a 
patience  beyond  comprehension,  to  exhortations  that 
they  could  not  understand.     In  later  years,  when  the 

269 


270  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

noted  Huron  village  standing  about  two-thirds  of  the 
way  up  the  St.  Charles  River,  could  muster  as  a  rem- 
nant of  the  once  powerful  confederacy  less  than  two 
hundred  persons,  Sillery  became  debatable  ground. 
The  surviving  red  men  then  appealed  to  the  British 
courts  for  a  fief,  upon  the  claim  that  it  belonged  to  them 
as  heirs  of  a  grant  made  to  their  ancestors  In  165 1. 
But  the  courts  held  that  the  grant  had  been  made  to 
the  Jesuits  without  specific  designations,  and  simply 
for  the  purpose  of  assembling  the  wandering  natives 
of  New  France  and  instructing  them  In  the  Christian 
religion.  It  was  also  claimed  that  fifty  years  after  con- 
ceding this  right,  upon  representing  that  it  had  been 
deserted  by  the  Indians,  It  was  regranted  to  the  Jesuits 
themselves.  Then  It  remained  In  their  hands  until  the 
dissolution  of  their  order  In  1800,  when  It  had  reverted 
to  the  British  Government.  So  the  attempt  to  recover 
that  fine  tract  of  country  along  the  river  near  Quebec 
was  denied  the  poor  descendants  of  the  original  owners. 
It  appears  that  the  grant  to  the  Jesuits  was  made  soon 
after  the  overthrow  of  the  Hurons  by  the  Iroquois,  and 
that  the  fathers  were  given  this  In  trust.  In  justice  to 
the  English  It  should  be  said  that  in  order  to  compen- 
sate their  loss  here  the  Indians  were  offered  grants  of 
Crown  lands  In  other  sections.  But  the  Hurons  replied 
that  any  movement  which  would  compel  them  to 
separate  or  change  their  mode  of  living  would  be  of  no 
benefit. 

Another  Indian  settlement  of  pathetic  interest  about 


From  Quebec  to  Montreal  271 

fifty  years  ago  was  that  of  a  remnant  of  Algonquins 
near  Three  Rivers,  and  numbering  about  eighty. 
Near  St.  Francis  River,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  dwelt,  in  a  village  constructed  of  bark  huts 
a  little  better  than  primitive  wigwams,  about  350  Ab- 
nakis  and  kindred  red  men,  descendants  of  the  warlike 
tribes  that  inhabited  northern  New  England  before 
the  long  and  sanguinary  wars  between  the  races. 
Higher  up  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  this  time,  were 
three  settlements  of  Iroquois ;  the  first  at  Sault  St. 
Louis,  numbering  almost  a  thousand  persons  ;  a  second 
at  St.  Regis,  numbering  350 ;  and  a  smaller  number 
living  at  the  Lake  of  Two  Mountains.  At  the  latter 
place  also  lived  about  six  hundred  Algonquins  and 
Nipissings.  All  of  these  settlements  were  then  in  a 
wretched  condition.  A  favourable  change,  in  most 
cases,  has  taken  place,  since  then ;  the  inhabitants 
have  to  a  considerable  extent  taken  on  civilised  ways. 
Each  hamlet  now  has  its  little  church,  and  in  most  cases 
a  native  preacher ;  the  people  are  industrious  and  ap- 
parently content  with  their  lot,  all  of  which  goes  to 
show  that  the  native  races  of  New  France  and  New 
England  were  not  only  willing  to  receive  the  gospel  of 
enlightenment,  but  that  they  were  capable  of  becoming 
good  citizens. 

About  midway  between  Quebec  and  Montreal, 
noted  as  a  half-way  station  of  these  outposts  of  civilis- 
ation through  the  early  struggles  of  settlement  and 
conquest,    its   very   situation    retarding    its   growth,  is 


2  72  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

to-day  the  most  important  town  upon  the  north  bank, 
standing  at  the  triple  outlet  of  the  St.  Maurice  River, 
from  which  fact  it  gets  its  name  of  Three  Rivers. 
Thoreau  has  most  aptly  remarked  that 

the  Greeks,  with  all  their  wood  and  river  gods,  were  not  so  quali- 
fied to  name  the  natural  features  of  a  country,  as  these  French 
Canadians,  and  if  any  people  had  a  right  to  substitute  their  own  for 
Indian  names  it  was  they.  When  translated  into  our  language 
these  names  lose  much  of  their  original  beauty  and  poetry.  While 
a  peculiar  fitness  belongs  to  the  nomenclature  of  its  natural  features 
the  utterance  of  these  names  cannot  other  than  suggest  the  linger- 
ing touches  of  romance.  What  associations  are  revivified  by  the 
mention  of  La  Riviire  de  la  Rose,  "  the  River  of  the  Rose,"  La 
Riviere  de  la  Friponne,  "the  Wanton  River,"  La  Riviere  du  Nord, 
"  the  River  of  the  North,"  and  others  more  or  less  romantic.  Why 
our  own  "  river "  sounds  prosaic  and  commonplace  beside  that 
la  riviere,  which  fairly  ripples  with  the  murmur  of  running  water  as 
it  falls  from  the  tongue. 

Among  the  carrying-places,  second  only  in  import- 
ance to  the  rivers,  were  such  fanciful  designations  as 
Portage  des  Roses,  speaking  in  unmistakable  terms  of  a 
profusion  of  wild  roses  overhanging  the  place,  possibly 
to  the  annoyance  of  the  infrequent  passer-by ;  and 
then,  on  the  Ottawa,  that  still  more  picturesque  name, 
Portage  de  la  Musique,  the  tumultuous  waters,  for  ever 
tumbling  over  the  rocks,  sending  up  their  endless  song. 

Three  Rivers  early  became  a  trading  post,  and  then 
to  strengthen  and  give  stability  to  the  frontier  a  mis- 
sion was  founded  here  in  1617  by  Pacifique  du  Plessis. 
With  all  its  advantages,  however,  it  failed  to  receive 
the  attention  it  deserved.  Champlain,  in  his  efforts  to 
advance  westward,  caused  a  fort  to  be  erected  here  in 


From  Quebec  to  Montreal  273 

1634  upon  the  same  site  where  the  Iroquois  had  de- 
stroyed a  primitive  defence  built  by  the  Algonquins  in 
their  futile  attempts  to  beat  back  their  powerful  foes. 
It  was  from  here  that  Father  Brebeuf  bade  his  farewell 
to  his  associates  when  he  set  forth  in  company  with  a 
party  of  trading  Hurons  to  carry  the  tidings  of  the 
Christian  faith  farther  into  the  wilderness.  This  ear- 
nest Jesuit  soon  proved  that  he  was  not  devoid  of  the 
military  spirit  the  Indians  strongly  preferred  to  that  of 
religious  zeal,  and  he  won  their  friendship  by  teaching 
them  how  to  build  a  palisaded  square  with  flanking 
towers  at  the  angles,  which  enabled  them  to  make  a 
better  defence  against  the  enemy  than  they  could  from 
their  round  inclosures.  As  has  already  been  said, 
Champlain  made  his  last  visit  here  in  the  summer  be- 
fore his  death  in  December.  But  Montreal  became  the 
magnet  to  draw  the  tide  of  settlement,  and  so  Three 
Rivers,  with  her  many  natural  advantages,  her  great 
iron  and  lumber  industries,  lives  in  her  past  as  well  as 
her  present.  Besides  her  rich  supply  of  iron,  which  the 
French  began  to  smelt  as  early  as  1737,  this  pictur- 
esque town  has  proved  a  rich  mine  of  historical  lore,  as 
worked  by  her  local  poet  and  historian.  The  town  is 
also  noted  for  its  noble  cathedral,  one  of  the  most  im- 
posing in  the  St.  Lawrence  valley.  This  is  the  head  of 
tide-water. 

Here,  as  elsewhere  in  the  St.  Lawrence  valley,  there 
is  something  in  the  atmosphere — or  is  it  more  sub- 
stantial ? — which  constantly  impresses  us  that  we  are  in 


2  74  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

a  country  older  than  New  England.  The  explanation 
lies  in  the  fact  that  the  original  comers,  the  old  cheva- 
liers, began  by  setting  up  a  feudal  system  of  colonisa- 
tion which  was  a  hundred  years  behind  the  latter,  and 
progress  yoked  to  this  made  an  ill-matched  pair,  so  they 
have  never  succeeded  in  catching  up.  It  was  not  until 
the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century  that  the  French 
could  truly  claim  to  have  gained  a  foothold  in  New 
France.  Fifty  years  of  building  upon  this  foundation 
did  not  succeed  in  erectingr  a  structure  that  could  resist 
the  British  force,  but  it  did  leave  imprints  that  three 
times  that  period  have  not  effaced. 

Of  the  States  it  is  frequently  declared  that  the  in- 
habitants are  a  mixed  race  composed  of  various  ele- 
ments. In  Canada  this  is  different.  New  France  had 
many  types  of  colonists,  and,  to  a  remarkable  extent, 
these  types  have  remained  pure  and  unmixed  to  this 
day.  Nowhere,  too,  is  the  record  of  a  race  more  clearly 
defined  at  its  different  periods  than  here.  First,  there 
came  the  hardy  peasants  from  Brittany  and  Normandy, 
small,  muscular  men,  with  bodies  toughened  by  an  in- 
hospitable climate,  and  skins  weather-stained  through 
ages  of  exposure.  They  had  heads  round  and  small, 
eyes  intensely  black,  an  air  of  unaffected  honesty,  and, 
what  seemed  stranger  than  all  else,  considering  their 
features,  a  sluggish  manner.  The  face  was  written  over 
with  courage,  intrepidity,  and  power  of  endurance. 
Like  father,  like  son,  and  these  traits  live  to-day  in  the 
inhabitants  of  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence. 


From  Quebec  to  Montreal  275 

While  many  of  the  early  colonists,  that  helped  to 
form  another  class,  were  the  sweepings  of  the  gaols  and 
the  poorhouses,  fortunately  not  many  of  these  became 
the  founders  of  families.  The  women  who  came  be- 
longed to  a  purer  class.  But  there  were  not  women 
enough  for  wives  to  the  colonists,  so  many  of  the  men 
married  Indian  maids,  and  thus  formed  legitimate  fami- 
lies, whose  descendants  became  no  small  factors  in  the 
development  of  the  country.  The  small  black  eyes,  the 
high  cheek-bones,  the  swarthy  skin,  the  scanty  growth 
of  beard,  the  keen,  alert  manner,  these  were  traits  that 
generations  have  not  lost.  The  most  strongly  marked 
of  this  class  are  known  as  petit  brules,  and  are  dark, 
gnarled,  and  tough.  Occasionally  we  find  one  whose 
dusky  features  have  been  lightened,  and  whose  cold, 
phlegmatic  nature  has  been  warmed  by  the  fire  of 
another  race. 

Another  phase  of  the  population  is  the  Gaul,  who 
can  trace  his  ancestry  back  to  some  soldier  in  the  army 
under  Wolfe  and  other  English  commanders,  who  took 
unto  his  bosom  a  Norman  maid,  and  whose  descendants 
bear  English  names  but  cannot  speak  a  word  of  that 
language.  Then  there  is  the  descendant  of  the  loyalist, 
driven  from  New  England  to  found  a  new  home  in  the 
wilds  of  the  St.  Lawrence  valley,  who  speedily  secured 
him  a  helpmeet  in  some  dark-haired,  dark-eyed  Can- 
adian lass,  unable  to  speak  a  word  of  English,  but  who 
understood  the  universal  language  of  love. 

Perhaps  the  finest  specimens  of  the  Canadian  peas- 


276  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

ant,  now  rare,  are  the  descendants  of  those  pioneer 
nobles  whose  fortunes  sent  them  from  affluent  homes  in 
the  old  country  to  help  conduct  affairs  in  the  new,  but 
who  were  left  after  the  conquest  too  poor  to  return  to 
their  native  land.  They  fell  back  upon  agriculture, 
that  form  of  industry  which  has  received  so  many,  un- 
able to  rise  to  the  station  their  talents  and  breeding 
entitled  them  to  take,  marrying,  if  not  already  united  to 
some  fair  daughter  of  Old  France,  a  buxom  maid  of  New 
France.  Their  circumstances  not  permitting  greater 
benefits  of  education,  their  children  grew  up  under  the 
limited  advantages  of  the  lower  class.  Each  succeeding 
generation  falling  a  scale  lower,  they  sank  to  the  level 
of  the  common  peasantry,  but  without  losing  that  native 
grace  and  courteousness  which  is  to-day  the  wonder  and 
the  admiration  of  those  who  meet  them.  In  this  we  see 
how  strongly  the  traditions  of  a  race  follow  the  tide  of 
fortunes  and  make  courtiers  out  of  plebeians. 

Thus  we  see  three  distinct  races  of  men,  not  yet 
completely  amalgamated,  composing  the  leading  ele- 
ments of  population  :  the  original  French  whose  de- 
scendants are  called  habitans;  the  British  immio-rant ; 
and,  first  in  the  order  of  his  coming,  the  Amerind.  The 
first,  and  third  of  these  formed  at  the  time  of  the  con- 
quest almost  the  entire  population.  They  held  the 
fertile  meadows  along  the  St.  Lawrence  between  Quebec 
and  Montreal,  while  they  had  pushed  up  the  banks  of  the 
Richelieu,  Chaudiere,  Yamaska,  and  the  St.  Maurice, 
besides  having-  made  some  minor  settlements  on   the 


A  i  RE.NCJI  CANADIAN  FARMER. 
From  a  photograph  by  Livernois,  Quebec. 


1 


I 


I 


From  Quebec  to  Montreal  277 

other  tributaries  of  the  great  river.  The  tracts  held  by 
them  were  all  under  the  feudal  system  once  prevalent 
in  Canada ;  that  is,  the  entire  country  had  been  first 
granted  to  persons  of  note  and  prestige,  usually  in  large 
blocks  or  districts.  This  class,  not  being  disposed  to 
improve  their  broad  acres  in  order  to  receive  any  bene- 
fit from  them,  made  over  small  parcels  to  those  who 
would  undertake  to  clear  the  forest  and  build  them 
homes,  upon  the  payment  of  small  yearly  rentals,  with 
the  stipulation  that  the  land  should  be  theirs  after  cer- 
tain amounts  had  been  paid.  These  sums  were  usually 
very  moderate,  sometimes  running  as  low  as  ten  shillings 
a  year,  with  some  other  consideration  allowed,  such  as 
a  small  bounty  on  fish  caught,  mill-dues,  a  bushel  of 
wheat,  and  a  fowl  or  two  thrown  in.  Under  such  easy 
conditions  the  occupants  of  these  fiefs  or  farms  were 
able  to  own  them  in  a  few  years. 

These  habitans  proved  an  industrious,  provident,  but 
not  an  energetic  or  progressive  people.  Few  added  to 
their  early  acres,  though  plenty  of  opportunity  was 
given  them  in  the  extensive  tracts  of  wild  lands  within 
their  reach.  Over  all  hung  that  air  of  contentment 
which  is  antagonistic  to  the  improvement  and  the  rapid 
advance  of  the  American  farmer.  Here  the  old  way 
lingered  in  the  path  of  progress.  An  air  of  Confu- 
cianism reigned.  If  the  crops  grew  fairly  well,  and 
they  got  raw  material  enough  to  manufacture  the  plain 
cloth  to  clothe  them,  they  enjoyed  a  sort  of  idyllic 
happiness.       This    modest    peasant   worked   with   due 


278  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

deliberation,  worrying  little,  fretting  little,  and  in  that 
way  became  master  of  himself,  plain,  comfortable, 
courteous,  virtuous,  without  seeking  after  knowledge  or 
reaching  for  power.  Perhaps  they  were  better  off  than 
their  brothers  over  the  line.  Who  can  say  ?  The 
spirit  of  the  nineteenth  century  awakened  them  some- 
what, and  upon  the  dawn  of  the  twentieth  century  we 
see  this  restlessness  increasing.  What  the  outcome  will 
be  remains  to  be  seen. 

The  early  French  farmhouse  was  built  of  rough 
stones,  the  crevices  filled  with  mortar,  and  the  sharp- 
peaked  roof  projecting  above  the  gable,  with  dormer 
windows  and  eaves  that  threatened  to  crush  the  whole 
structure.  With  slight  modifications  this  style  of  archi- 
tecture remains,  though  wood  has  generally  succeeded 
stone  as  building  material.  The  walls  are  usually 
whitewashed  from  sill  to  ridge-pole.  The  huge  chimney, 
with  its  plastered  sides,  remains  ;  so  do  the  wide  eaves 
projecting  over  the  railless  piazza  ;  so  does  the  feeling 
that  winter  still  lingers  in  spirit  if  not  in  substance  over 
the  dwelling.  Shade  trees  are  not  so  common  as  in  the 
States,  but  the  stately  Lombardy  poplar  that  came  with 
the  earliest  inhabitants  has  never  lost  favour  with  the 
peasantry.  There  is  no  display  of  fruit  in  the  little 
garden,  while  there  is  a  dearth  of  flowers  and  shrubbery 
around  the  yard.  The  barn,  with  its  thatched  roof, 
stands  a  short  distance  away,  as  lonely  as  the  house. 

Following  a  rail  fence  for  about  two  hundred  yards 
— the  regulation  distance  is  three  arpents  (equivalent  to 


From  Quebec  to  Montreal  279 

an  acre)  in  width,  and  sixty  arpents  in  depth — we  come 
to  an  exact  counterpart  of  this.  Beyond  is  another, 
and  yet  another,  until  we  have  continued  on  a  road  that 
seems  endless  and  a  type  of  dwelling  that  mocks  the 
love  for  variety.  There  is  certainly  a  painful  sameness 
in  the  rows  of  farmhouses  in  the  Lower  Province,  not 
to  mention  the  Eastern  Townships. 

The  interior  of  these  houses  presents  a  busy  as- 
pect. The  rough  walls  hold  many  high-coloured  pic- 
tures of  a  religious  nature,  a  likeness  of  Jesus,  of  Mary, 
or  of  St.  Cecilia  and  others.  Overhead,  in  the  living- 
room,  hang  from  pegs  long  strings  of  onions,  dried  fruit, 
and  it  may  be  two  or  three  pairs  of  snow-shoes  and  the 
firearms  of  the  men.  Passing  into  the  adjoining  apart- 
ment,— these  houses  usually  contain  only  two  rooms, — 
the  most  prominent  article  of  furniture  is  the  ancient  bed, 
with  its  massive  posts  and  quilt  of  patchwork  laid  and 
sewed  by  the  deft  fingers  of  the  good  housewife.  Over 
the  bed  hangs  a  cross,  associated  with  which  are  numer- 
ous images  and  relics,  all  rendered  holy  objects  by  the 
blessing  of  the  parish  priest.  Altogether  the  interior  of 
the  dwelling  is  a  cheerful  scene,  and  if  grimed  with 
smoke  and  filled  with  the  odours  of  the  kitchen,  it  is 
quaint  and  home-like,  where  a  happy  family  gather  at 
eventide. 

This  race,  from  time  almost  memorial,  has  professed 
the  religion  of  the  Catholic  Church.  This  teaches  them 
not  to  miss  the  Sunday  morning  service,  but  it  does  not 
hold  them  strictly  accountable  for  their  actions  during  the 


28o  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

balance  of  the  day.  So  Sunday  becomes,  in  a  measure, 
a  holiday.  Decked  out  in  their  best,  certain  of  the 
families  set  forth  to  visit  friends,  the  male  portion  to 
discuss  matters  that  have  a  decidedly  worldly  character, 
while  the  gentler  portion  repeat  with  a  kindred  spirit  the 
village  gossip.  The  young  men,  habited  in  their  fin- 
est, improve  this  time  to  pay  their  court  to  the  charming 
damsels  that  may  favour  them  with  their  good  graces. 
And  these  maidens,  clothed  in  their  best,  their  becom- 
ing attire  set  out  with  many  bright  colours  in  which  they 
take  especial  pride,  wait  and  watch  for  their  chevaliers 
with  undisguised  anticipation  of  delight. 

Not  long  since  the  harvest  was  followed  by  a  festi- 
val which  seemed  at  one  time  to  have  a  national  hold 
upon  the  people.  It  was  given  during  the  harvest 
moon,  when  the  last  load  of  grain  was  garnered.  A 
sheaf  of  huge  dimensions,  emblematical  of  an  abundant 
harvest,  was  placed  on  top,  and  beside  this  loaded  wain 
walked  on  each  side  four  young  men  and  as  many  young 
women,  their  heads  decorated  with  the  heads  of  the 
grain.  As  they  kept  measured  step  with  the  slow-mov- 
ing oxen  that  drew  the  load,  they  sang  snatches  of 
national  songs. 

While  this  load  of  grain,  with  its  escorts,  moved 
leisurely  in  the  direction  of  the  home  of  the  particular 
farmer  who  thus  proposed  to  offer  his  homage  to  the 
goddess  Ceres,  within  the  house  the  good  husbandman 
and  his  faithful  spouse  patiently  awaited  its  approach. 
Says  an  old  account : 


From  Quebec  to  Montreal  281 

The  master  of  the  house  sits  in  a  large  arm-chair  at  the  head  of 
the  room,  and  awaits  with  a  joyful  and  contented  air  the  arrival  of 
his  people.  These  soon  come  trooping  in,  led  by  the  eldest  son, 
who  carries  in  one  hand  a  fine  sheaf  of  wheat  all  decorated  with 
ribbons,  and  in  the  other  hand  a  decanter  and  a  glass.  He  ad- 
vances to  the  master  of  the  house,  gives  him  the  sheaf,  wishes  him 
as  good  a  harvest  every  year  of  his  life,  and  pours  him  out  a  glass 
of  brandy.  The  old  gentleman  thanks  him  and  drinks  off  the  glass. 
Then  the  son  goes  round  the  room  and  serves  the  company,  after 
which  they  pass  to  the  next  room  for  supper,  composed  of  mutton, 
milk,  and  pancakes  with  maple  sugar.  After  supper  the  decanter 
and  glass  go  their  rounds  again,  and  then  the  young  man  who  pre- 
sented the  sheaf  asks  his  father  to  sing  a  song. 

The  song  finished,  the  young  people  begin  to  dance, 
while  a  musician  plays  ;  others  sing,  the  older  members 
tell  stories,  the  children  play  games  until  the  festival  is 
brought  to  an  end  in  the  small  hours  of  night. 

While  this  practice,  as  has  been  remarked,  was  some 

time  since  abandoned,  its  spirit  still  pervades  not  only 

the  harvest,  but  the  sowing  and  the  cultivation  of  the 

crop.      Instead  of  preparing  for  this  festivity  of  the  Big 

Sheaf,  the  farmer  pays  the  priest  a  certain  sum  to  say 

a   mass   and    offer   up  prayers  of  thankfulness  for  his 

harvest. 

The  grain  does  not  grow  without  the  touch  of  holy  water  ;  when 
harvested  it  is  brought  to  the  altar  ;  the  leaven  rises  under  the  in- 
vocation of  Divine  aid  ;  and  the  loaf  is  not  cut  till  the  sign  of  the 
cross  is  made  upon  it  by  the  devout  habitan.  The  loaf  is,  indeed, 
an  epitome  of  their  life. 

The  short,  fleeting  summer  being  necessarily  spent 
in  constant  toil,  cutting  short  the  hours  of  relaxation, 
the  winter  becomes  the  season  when  light-hearted  joy 
reigns  triumphant.      Then,   in  their  carioles,   or  little 


282  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

chaises  on  steel  runners,  they  flit  from  neighbour  to 
neighbour,  spending  the  long  evenings  in  games  and 
social  intercourse,  throwing  dull  care  to  the  wintry- 
blasts  waging  their  bitter  battles  without,  while  peace 
and  contentedness  vie  with  each  other  for  supremacy 
within  the  little  house. 

At  Christmas-tide  the  believing  peasant  will  tell  you 
that  the  stars  penetrate  to  the  heart  of  the  earth,  often 
disclosing  valuable  treasures  to  him  who  is  fortunate 
enough  to  be  on  hand.  It  is  then  the  last  curd  of  the 
parish  of  the  Saguenay  awakens  his  sleeping  flock,  and 
recites  the  litany,  his  shadowy  followers  repeating  after 
him  the  responses.  As  soon  as  this  exercise  is  over,  all 
return  to  their  tombs,  where  they  remain  until  another 
Christmas  shall  call  them  forth  upon  their  ghostly 
errand.  In  later  years  we  find  Christmas  observed  by 
its  midnight  mass,  its  consecrated  bread,  and  the  sing- 
ing of  anthems.  At  eleven  o'clock  the  first  bell  is  rung, 
and  half  an  hour  later  it  is  repeated,  the  chorister  at 
this  time  beginning  to  chant  the  Venez,  mon  Dieu,  and 
Chan\ons  Noel.  A  few  minutes  before  twelve  o'clock  the 
Te  Deum  is  sung,  during  which  the  cannon  announces 
that  the  divine  hour  has  come,  and  the  mass  is  to 
begin. 

Perhaps  in  the  history  of  no  people  has  the  love  for 
fatherland  been  more  pronounced  or  of  longer  duration 
than  in  Canada, — -a  British  body  with  a  French  heart. 
The  meaning  of  this  statement  cannot  be  better  illus- 
trated   than    in    the    advice   of   the    old    soldier   under 


I 


From  Quebec  to  Montreal  283 

Montcalm,  pictured  in  the  romance  of  Les  A^iczens 
Cajtadiens,  who,  suffering  from  the  bloodless  wounds 
given  by  the  conquerors  of  Quebec,  said  to  his  son,  as 
he  handed  him  his  sword,  "  Serve  your  English  sovereign 
with  the  same  zeal,  devotion,  and  loyalty  with  which  I 
have  served  the  French  King,  and  accept  my  blessing." 
With  this  spirit  of  allegiance  it  is  not  singular  that 
here  are  "  the  true  French,  the  successors  of  the  great 
race  that  once  dominated  Europe."  It  is  true  their 
manners  have  been  modified  somewhat  by  the  change 
of  government  and  environment,  but  centuries  of  life 
have  failed  to  eradicate  the  racial  features  or  change 
their  nature.  So  we  find  the  sturdy  Jtabita7i  of  the 
Canada  of  to-day  an  almost  identical  reproduction  of 
his  ancestor  who  came  to  New  France  from  Old  Nor- 
mandy in  the  days  of  Champlain  and  Frontenac.  One 
of  his  historians  aptly  says  : 

He  is  the  same  cheerful,  optimistic,  pleasure-loving  being  that 
they  were.  In  many  respects  he  is  as  simple  as  a  child;  in  others 
he  is  as  cunning  and  as  guileful  as  any  small  trader  on  earth.  The 
French  Canadian  cannot  live  in  solitude;  he  must  have  society. 
.  .  .  When  the  evening  comes  he  leaves  his  plough  in  the  furrow 
and  greets  the  stars  with  a  song  that  his  forefathers,  who  fought 
with  Frontenac,  brought  over  from  the  land  their  descendants  still 
call  "  la  belle  France''  Their  tired  women  are  never  too  tired  to 
dance  in  the  midst  of  cares  and  labours  so  heavy  and  severe  that 
their  like  has  driven  thousands  of  the  habitans  into  the  United  States. 
.  .  .  By  the  light  of  the  blazing  logs  in  the  humble  cottage  they 
are  happy  and  cheerful  to  a  degree  that  would  seem  to  the  grave 
New  Englander  wicked  levity  and  mad  irresponsibility. 

Thus  to-day  the  environments  of  Quebec  are  mainly 

remnants  of  that  cloak  thrown  around  it  by  the  sons  of 


284  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Normandy  who  flocked  hither  ere  that  fateful  morn 
when  Montcalm  rallied  his  troops  in  an  ineffectual 
attempt  to  turn  back  the  tide  of  British  conquest  on 
the  Plains  of  Abraham.  If  the  immigration  ceased 
then  with  an  abruptness  quite  remarkable,  those  in 
whose  hands  was  placed  the  seal  of  destiny  have  proved 
themselves  true  to  the  love  and  traditions  of  that 
France  which  the  immigrds  of  the  seventeenth  century 
left  to  try  their  fortunes  in  the  forests  of  a  New 
France. 


CHAPTER  XXI 

The  Region  of  Rivers 

The  Chaudiere  Valley— Watershed  of  Northern  New  England — Falls  of  the 
Chaudiere— Eastern  Townships— As  seen  by  the  Early  Voyagers — A  Primeval 
Picture — Feathered  Denizens  of  the  Woods — Noble  Old  Trees— Memory  of 
Cartier's  Men— Lake  St.  Peter — Town  of  St.  Francis — St.  Francis  River— An 
Old-Time  War-Trail— Rogers's  Raid— The  Loyalists— Yamaska— A  Vista  of 
Mountains — The  Richelieu  Valley — Extract  from  an  Old  Journal — Saintly 
Names — A  Ghostly  Bivouac. 

FOLLOWING  the  southern  shore,  soon  after 
leaving  Quebec  we  reach  the  mouth  of  its 
most  important  tributary  from  this  direction 
since  leaving  the  gulf.  It  was  up  this  river,  over  the 
portages  crossing  the  highlands,  and  then  down  the 
Kennebec  that  the  Indian  tribes  of  the  valley  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  entered  the  Province  of  Main,  now 
the  State  of  Maine. 

In  its  hues,  from  the  blossoms  and  foliage,  it  is  a 
valley  of  rainbows ;  in  its  shape,  from  the  old  seigniory 
farm-grants  cut  into  small  parcels  through  the  laws  of 
inheritance,  each  running  back  from  the  river's  bank, 
it  is  a  huge  landscape  checker-board.  Each  parcel  is 
divided  from  its  neighbour  by  lines  of  fence  as  straight 
as  runs  the  eye,  one  distinguished  by  a  distinct  shade 
of  green,  another  by  a  deeper  hue ;  one  starred  with 
the  bright-red  blossoms  of   the   Canadian   elderberry ; 

285 


286  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

another  splashed  with  a  profusion  of  yellow  buttercups 
on  its  ground  of  meadow-green  ;  and  still  another  gem- 
med with  the  poet's  ox-eye  daisies. 

Here,  as  elsewhere,  we  see  vivid  evidence  of  wealth 
and  poverty  in  varying  degrees.  Now  a  dwelling  that 
shows  comfort  and  ease  from  unreasonable  toil ;  just 
beyond,  within  a  stone's  throw,  a  poorer  abode,  where 
several  poverty-pinched  faces  peer  out  from  small  win- 
dows, saying  in  unmistakable  language  that  the  day  is 
not  far  distant  when  all  but  one,  son  or  daughter,  must 
go  forth  to  seek  a  fortune — most  likely  in  the  States — 
while  the  exception  must  remain  at  home  and  eke  out  a 
precarious  existence  as  his  or  her  parents  have  done. 
Unfortunate  home-stayer!  Happily,  perhaps,  it  is  the 
rule  here,  that  a  man  at  fifty  retires  from  active  work, 
and  lives,  and  smokes,  and  gossips  until  the  end.  I 
have  not  been  able  to  learn  if  this  rule  applies  in  part 
or  entirely  to  the  woman  who  took  up  early  the  burden 
of  the  home  with  him.  But  no  doubt  the  rule  applies 
with  forcible  truth  here,  that  "  woman's  work  is  never 
done." 

Tradition — good  old  soul ! — says  the  bed  of  the 
Chaudiere  is  inlaid  with  gold.  If  that  be  true  or  not, 
no  man  has  taken  the  trouble  to  ascertain.  For  nearly 
two  centuries  the  simple  people  have  been  content  to 
follow  the  pace  set  by  their  ancestors,  and,  if  they  did 
not  choose  to  look  for  gold,  why  should  they?  In  the 
distance  a  windmill  lifts  its  stationary  arm  against  a 
rising  background,  like  a  sentinel  on  duty  to  warn  away 


The  Region  of  Rivers  287 

the  intruder  from  this  peaceful  land  with  a  grimness 
that  is  a  part  of  its  long  service.  What  is  man,  after  all, 
but  a  pointing  finger  on  the  dial  of  time  ? 

Only  the  most  modest  demands  are  made  upon  the 
land  here  in  the  valley  of  the  Chaudiere,  where,  at  most, 
the  farmer  expects  a  little  hay,  a  little  fruit,  a  few  vege- 
tables, some  wheat,  and  rest  from  toil.  Fortunate  old 
earth  ;  happy  man  ! 

The  Chaudiere,  which  word  means  a  "kettle"  or 
caldron,  has  its  source  in  Lake  Megantic,  situated  on 
the  dividing  ridge  between  the  Atlantic  slope  and 
the  valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  Upon  the  one  hand 
the  rivers  flow  toward  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  on  the 
other  seek  the  great  river  of  Canada.  This  watershed, 
extending  for  hundreds  of  miles  between  the  slopes  run- 
ning down  on  the  east  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and 
on  the  west  to  the  Great  Lakes,  had  to  be  crossed  by  the 
native  inhabitants  and  the  early  pioneers  by  the  painful 
process  of  portage.  Of  these  places,  that  connecting 
the  Chaudiere  with  the  head  waters  of  the  Kennebec 
was  second  in  importance.  It  was  over  this  "terri- 
ble carrying-place,"  from  the  Dead  River  to  the  Chau- 
diere, that  Arnold  passed  with  his  weary  men  in  the 
winter  of  1775-76,  when  making  his  arduous  march  to 
meet  Montgomery  at  Quebec  in  a  joint  assault  upon 
that  stronghold,  the  most  famous  campaign  in  American 
history,  and  one  of  the  most  trying  in  the  history  of 
the  world. 

The   Falls  of  the  Chaudiere  are  among  the  most 


288  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

attractive  in  America,  though  they  do  not  exceed  130 
feet  in  height.  Their  beauty  and  majesty,  however,  is 
trebled  by  a  division  of  the  stream  into  three  channels, 
which  unite  below.  Much  of  the  sublimity  of  this  fall 
has  passed  with  the  coming  of  the  woodsman,  though 
he  could  rob  the  jewel  of  only  its  setting.  It  was  de- 
scribed three-fourths  of  a  century  ago  by  the  eloquent 
Willis  in  the  following  words  : 

Nothing  is  on  the  same  great  scale  of  its  two  rivals  (Niagara 
and  Montmorency),  yet  it  surpasses  both  in  the  magnificent 
forests  by  which  it  is  overhung,  whose  dark  foliage,  varied  and 
contrasted  by  the  white  foam  of  the  cataracts,  produces  the  most 
striking  effects.  These  are  heightened  by  the  deep  and  hollow 
sound  of  the  waters,  and  the  clouds  of  spray,  which,  when  illumined 
by  the  sun,  exhibit  the  most  brilliant  variety  of  prismatic  colours.  A 
succession  of  rapids  for  some  space  upwards  displays  a  continuation 
of  the  same  bold  and  beautiful  scenery. 

Here,  as  elsewhere,  the  impressive  sublimity  of  the 
ancient  forest  has  given  way  to  the  sunny  slope  and 
the  pastoral  vale.  Where  the  blockhouse  that  once 
bid  defiance  to  an  enemy  that  neither  knew  pity  nor 
compassed  fear,  the  great  warehouse  of  a  prosperous 
community  stands  ;  and  the  labyrinthine  chateau  of  a 
Vansittart  would  now  be  sadly  out  of  harmony  envi- 
roned by  an  apple  orchard,  the  bower  of  some  modern 
Rosamond. 

To  get  the  best  effect  of  the  Chaudiere  Falls,  visit 
them  by  moonlight,  when  the  great  wilderness  of  night 
has  bound  the  scene  in  a  solitude  born  of  the  distant 
past.      It    is  then   the   naiads   of   the   foaming  waters, 


I 


The  Region  of  Rivers  289 

daughters  of  the  mist,  dpn  their  whitest  raiment,  dance 
in  their  wildest  glee,  and  sing  their  merriest  songs.  No 
sound  more  discordant  than  the  plaintive  cry  of  a  be- 
lated thrush,  or  the  distant  baying  of  a  hound  that  has, 
peradventure,  run  its  game  to  earth,  breaks  upon  the 
steady  roar  of  the  rolling  river,  while  the  sympathetic 
moon  glides  overhead  in  her  slippers  of  silence.  When 
we  finally  break  away  from  the  invisible  arms  that 
would  draw  us  with  a  mysterious  power  into  their  fatal 
embrace,  and  the  deep  thunder  of  the  impassioned 
waters  becomes  fainter  and  fainter  as  we  recede,  it 
seems  as  if  the  magnificent  machinery  of  Nature  had 
ceased  its  revolutions,  while  a  deep,  impressive  calm 
settles  upon  the  earth.  The  breeze  sweeping  down 
from  the  distant  mountain  dies  away  before  it  enters 
here.  The  trees,  like  tired  children,  suddenly  fall 
asleep,  and  stand  with  heads  bowed  in  repose. 

Lying  to  the  south  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  between 
the  Chaudiere  and  the  Richelieu  rivers,  with  the  water- 
shed between  the  States  and  Canada  forming  the  in- 
terior boundary,  is  a  region  of  rivers,  lakes,  plains,  and 
valleys,  punctuated  here  and  there  with  some  mountain 
peak,  and  known  as  the  Eastern  Townships.  At  a 
time  when  only  a  few  squatters  had  settled  upon  it,  in 
1833,  the  British-American  Land  Company  made  the 
great  block  purchase  of  that  territory  later  divided  into 
the  towns  of  Garthby,  Strafford,  Whitton,  Adstock, 
Chesham,  Emberton,  Hampden,  Bury,  with  portions  of 
Weedon,   Singwick,   Ditton,  Auckland,  and  Hereford. 


290  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

The  company  decided  to  begin  their  settlement  upon 
that  fertile  section  watered  by  the  Salmon  River,  and 
named  "The  Meadows."  Just  below  the  falls  they 
built  a  village  called  Victoria,  and,  in  1836,  cut  a  road 
through  to  Sherbrooke, 

Nature  reigns  with  a  free  hand  in  the  Eastern 
Townships.  Nowhere  have  the  mountains  a  deeper 
gloom  ;  the  sunlight,  that  gilds  their  summits,  a  brighter 
halo.  The  spirit  of  wild  life  everywhere  abounds. 
Clothed  in  their  evergreen  vesture  from  base  to  crest, 
the  mountains  half  reveal,  half  conceal  their  wealth  of 
ravines  and  crags,  gentle  slopes  and  precipitous  cliffs  ; 
the  silvery  streams  that  rush  downward  with  frenzied 
haste  to  the  plains ;  the  meadows  and  the  valleys, 
scarcely  one  of  which  is  not  jewelled  with  some  sheet  of 
glistening  water.  Added  to  these  charms  are  the 
numerous  villas  and  home-like  cottages  scattered  by 
man  over  the  fair  prospect.  What  a  picture  of  prime- 
val completeness  this  country  must  have  presented  to 
Cartier,  as  he  boldly  advanced  up  the  St.  Lawrence  in 
his  smallest  vessel,  most  appropriately  named  the  Em- 
erilloji,  which  means  in  English  Merlin,  the  designa- 
tion of  a  small  falcon  common  in  Great  Britain. 

Allured  hither  by  the  attractions,  some  of  the  voyag- 
ers went  ashore,  and  they  came  back  laden  with  luscious 
grapes  and  filled  with  glowing  accounts  of  the  beauties 
of  this  New  World  Eden.  Among  the  sweet  singers 
of  the  forest  they  declared  they  heard  linnets,  thrushes, 
blackbirds,  and  the  rossignol,  as  sweet  and  as  charm- 


A  TOSS-UP.        A  FORM  OF  CANADIAN  SPORT. 
From  a  photograph  by  W.  Notman  &  Son,  Montreal. 


\ 


The  Region  of  Rivers  291 

ing  as  they  had  ever  sung  in  the  native  parks  of  Fon- 
tainebleau.  Little  did  it  matter  if  they  had  mistaken 
the  Canadian  sparrow  for  the  nightingale,  as  they 
would  never  know  the  difference,  or  hear  the  loved 
strains  again  of  their  favourite  singers,  for  did  not 
Cartier  write,  with  a  tear  in  his  words  :  "  les principaulx 
et  boiis  compaig7tons  que  nous  eussions  "  ? 

Cartier  was  pleased  to  christen  the  water  into  which 
they  soon  after  glided  Lac  d' Angouleme,  in  honour  of 
an  ancestral  earldom  of  his  patron.  Sixty-eight  years 
later,  June  29,  1603,  Champlain  upon  arriving  here  re- 
named it  Lake  St.  Peter,  after  a  habit  these  early 
explorers  had  of  remembering  the  day  upon  which  a 
certain  spot  was  first  seen. 

Cartier  and  his  followers  were  now  opposite  the 
present  city  of  Three  Rivers,  where  they  first  began  to 
find  the  odd-shaped  dwellings  of  the  natives,  who  were 
to  be  seen  along  the  banks,  some  of  them  fishing,  oth- 
ers repairing  their  rude  nets  or  mending  their  simple 
tackle.  Several  thriving  towns  have  since  sprung  up 
along  the  stretch  of  shore  running  westward,  the  most 
conspicuous  of  which  is  Berthier,  situated  on  the 
North  Channel,  so  called,  and  about  midway  between 
Three  Rivers  and  Montreal. 

Lake  St.  Peter  receives  the  waters  of  two  historic 
tributaries  to  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  first  of  these,  as 
we  move  up  the  great  river,  is  the  St.  Francis,  a  name 
given  to  it  in  a  baptism  of  blood  long  after  the  coming 
of   Cartier.       In    this   vicinity   were   springs   of  great 


292  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

medicinal  virtue,  known  to  the  Indians,  and  as  far 
back  as  tradition  reaches,  the  red  men,  one  tribe  after 
another,  had  sought  the  locaHty,  and  maintained  their 
lodgments.  Here  the  missionary  established  his  out- 
post of  religion,  and  here  collected  the  remnants  of  the 
Indian  families  inhabiting  the  lower  provinces  as  fast  as 
the  New  Englanders,  in  the  long  and  bitter  frontier 
wars,  routed  their  tribes,  one  after  another.  Here  came 
the  last  of  the  Pennacooks,  the  Ameriscoggins,  the 
Wavenocks,  the  Canibas,  and  last,  but  not  least,  the 
Sokokis,  to  say  nothing  of  several  minor  bodies.  The 
scenery  in  this  vicinity  is  delightful,  and  it  is  eminently 
fitting  that  the  descendants  of  the  warriors  named 
above  should  exist  here  to-day,  living  in  a  prosperous 
community  without  a  suggestion  of  the  cruel  struggles 
which  once  dyed  the  budding  foliage  crimson,  and 
reddened  the  current  of  the  broken  waters.  It  is  well 
Nature  does  not  cherish  the  memory  of  the  outrages 
committed  against  her,  and  that  the  old  earth  seeks 
immediately  to  heal  scars  received  in  mortal  com- 
bats, her  forests  nodding  to  each  other  in  forgetful 
glee,  and  her  fields  and  pastures  yielding,  in  their  sea- 
sons, an  abundant  harvest  as  lightly  as  if  never  written 
over  with  the  story  of  human  tragedies,  and  furrowed 
with  the  graves  of  innocent  victims. 

From  time  immemorial  the  St.  Francis  River  was 
the  middle  pathway  between  the  debatable  valley  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  and  the  hillsides  of  the  Atlantic.  Up  and 
down  its  rugged  course,  through  the  gateway  of  the 


The  Region  of  Rivers  293 

highland  lakes,  and  thence  along  the  Connecticut  or  the 
Merrimac  on  the  south,  passed  and  repassed  the  rival 
races  of  ancient  Canada  and  New  England.  Over  this 
war-course  were  taken,  perhaps,  more  English  captives 
to  Canada  than  on  all  other  routes  combined,  and  there 
is  not  a  bend  in  its  winding  waters,  a  rapid  in  its  race- 
ways, which  has  not  known  the  wail  of  human  distress. 
Over  this  war  trail  was  Mrs.  Rowlandson  borne  to  her 
years  of  captivity  among  the  Indians;  over  this  route 
was  John  Stark,  afterwards  of  Bennington  battle  fame, 
taken  in  the  spring  of  1752  ;  over  this  trail  followed,  in 
his  pursuit  of  vengeance,  that  half  human,  half  demon, 
the  wolf-stalker ;  somewhere,  within  sight  and  sound  of 
its  murmuring  waters,  but  unmarked  and  unknown,  is 
the  double  Qrrave  of  the  beautiful  sisters  of  the  Pilo^rim 
Church;  and  in  1759,  a  fitting  climax  to  all  of  these 
and  many  other  trying  scenes,  over  this  same  course 
sped  those  Nemeses  of  the  forest,  Rogers  and  his 
Rangers,  stealing  down  upon  the  sleeping  red  men. 
The  sleep  of  death  it  proved  indeed  to  over  two  hun- 
dred, who  awoke  only  to  fall  into  the  slumber  of  eter- 
nity. The  handful  that  escaped  this  tardy  reply  to 
Frontenac's  "  winter  raids  "  were  too  few  and  weak  ever 
to  rally  at  the  call  of  the  war-cry. 

The  St.  Francis  River  is  really  the  combined  flood 
of  seven  streams,  the  most  prominent  of  which  are  the 
Magog,  outlet  for  Lakes  Magog  and  Memphremagog, 
and  the  Massawippi,  which  brings  the  tribute  of  the 
Coaticook. 


294  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

On  the  hill-slopes  of  the  main  river  stands  the  city 
of  fairs,  Sherbrooke,  whose  glittering  spires  are  con- 
spicuous objects  for  miles  around.  In  1834,  Sherbrooke 
was  selected  as  the  headquarters  of  the  British-Ameri- 
can Land  Company,  which  had  much  to  do  with  open- 
ing up  the  promising  country  comprising  the  Eastern 
Townships.  With  its  manufactures,  as  well  as  farming 
interests,  this  district  owes  considerable  of  its  develop- 
ment to  the  loyalists,  those  robust  men  who  upon  the 
ascendency  of  the  American  colonies  found  themselves 
without  resources,  and,  driven  from  New  England,  set- 
tled, many  of  them,  in  this  region. 

Picking  up  the  disused  axe  with  a  sigh — often  with  a  secret  tear 
— they  once  more  hewed  out  for  themselves  homes  in  the  forest. 
They  brought  across  the  frontier,  with  their  old  Hebrew  names,  the 
pith  and  industry  and  intense  earnestness  of  the  Puritan.  They 
transplanted  to  Canadian  soil  that  old  farm-life  of  New  England, 
which,  by  its  quaint  ways,  has  stirred  so  many  delightful  fancies  in 
American  novelists  and  poets.  Such  fire-light  pictures  and  winter- 
idylls  as  Hawthorne  and  Whittier  love  to  paint,  were  here  to  be  seen 
of  a  winter  evening  in  every  snow-bound  farmstead.  Among  the 
dusty  heirlooms  of  these  Township  homesteads  may  still  be  found 
andirons  that  stood  on  the  early  New  England  hearths.  Burned  out 
and  fallen  to  ashes  are  the  last  forestick  and  backlog  ;  and  so  are 
that  brave  old  couple  who,  in  their  grey  hairs  wandered  into  the 
Canadian  wilderness,  and,  with  trembling  hands,  hung  the  old  crane 
over  a  new  hearth. 

Romance  and  legend  cluster  thickly  about  those 
days  and  the  trying  experiences  of  the  brave  hearts  who 
sacrificed  their  all  of  earthly  comfort  in  love  for  their 
king.  He  only  partially  paid  this  debt  by  the  grants  of 
land  made  in  1 784.     Canada  owes  more  to  this  incom- 


The  Region  of  Rivers  295 

ing  of  the  loyaHsts  than  she  has  ever  fully  acknow- 
ledged. But  for  this  immigration,  enforced,  if  it  pleases 
you  to  say  it,  the  development  of  the  country  must  have 
been  retarded  for  a  long  time,  while  it  is  doubtful  if  an 
element  to  equal  it  could  ever  have  been  attracted  hither. 
Now  it  is  the  Yamaska,  which  meant  in  the  Indian 
tongue  "  the  rush-floored  river."  In  order  to  stem  the 
tide  of  Iroquois  invasion,  Frontenac  undertook  to  estab- 
lish here  a  cordon  of  dusky  regiments  composed  of  the 
hereditary  enemies  of  the  former.  Along  the  Yamaska 
have  since  sprung  up  many  pretty  towns.  Not  the  least 
among  these  is  St.  Hyacinthe,  where  the  deep-toned 
cathedral  bell  falls  on  the  evenino;  air  somewhat  as  the 
swelling  anthems  of  the  forest  songs  were  brought  out 
by  the  wild  winds  as  they  shook  the  roofs  of  the  giant 
pines  forming  great  natural  cathedrals  when  the  Genius 
of  the  Solitude  reigned  supreme.  Climbing  this  river 
we  pass  under  the  shadow  of  Mount  Yamaska,  and 
finally  enter  a  narrow  valley  shut  in  by  the  lofty  twins, 
Mount  Brome  on  the  north  and  Shefford  on  the  south, 
to  stumble  upon  that  gem  of  waters  which  is  the  fount 
of  Yamaska.  From  the  summit  of  one  of  these  we  can 
look  down  upon  the  noble  country  hastily  sketched,  a 
landscape  lifted  into  prominence  by  the  scattered  mount- 
ains dotting  the  view  from  the  Richelieu  to  the  Chau- 
diere,  the  Canadian  children  of  the  White  Mountains  in 
New  Hampshire  and  the  Green  Mountains  in  Vermont, 
the  highest  of  which  is  Mount  Orford,  rising  4500  feet 
into  the  air.     If  the  day  is  clear  the  dreamy  outlines  of 


296  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Mount  Royal  on  the  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence  lend 
grace  and  beauty  to  the  panorama  of  scenery.  The 
largest  of  its  many  water-jewels  are  Lakes  Memphre- 
magog  and  her  sister,  Massawippi. 

A  still  more  important  pathway  over  the  dividing 
ridge  between  the  rival  powers  was  that  by  the  Riche- 
lieu River,  which  has  been  partially  described  in  nar- 
rating Champlain's  journey  of  discovery  and  invasion 
against  the  Iroquois.  Following  up  this  river  to  Lake 
Champlain,  and  thence  by  Otter  Creek  and  Black  River 
to  the  Connecticut,  made  entrance  into  central  New 
England  easy.  On  the  west  from  Lake  George,  the 
Hudson  was  reached  by  a  short  portage  and  an  almost 
complete  waterway  effected  into  the  country  of  the 
"  Long  House,"  now  New  York. 

This  great  main  war  trail,  upon  the  advent  of  the 
French  and  English  on  the  stage  of  warfare,  became 
speedily  protected  by  armed  garrisons.  As  early  as 
1664  Jacques  de  Chambly  erected  a  fort  at  the  foot  of 
the  rapids  on  the  Richelieu,  which  could  also  be  reached 
by  a  thirteen-mile  portage  from  La  Prairie  on  the  St. 
Lawrence,  three  miles  above  Montreal.  The  passage 
of  the  French  and  their  allies  was  also  defended  by 
three  other  forts,  St.  Louis  at  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
afterwards  renamed  Fort  Sorel,  Forts  St.  Therese  and 
Richelieu,  the  latter  at  the  head  of  the  river.  The 
French,  ascending  Lake  Champlain  and  improving  the 
strategic  position  of  the  country  at  the  end  of  the  port- 
age from  Lake  George,  erected  Fort  Crown   Point  in 


i 


A  SPILL  ON  THE  TOBOGGAN  SLIDE. 


The  Region  of  Rivers  297 

1727,  and  four  years  later  Fort  Frederick,  afterwards 
known  as  Ticonderoga.  Meanwhile  the  English,  com- 
ing up  the  Hudson  above  Albany,  built  at  Stillwater,  in 
1709,  Forts  Ingoldsby  and  Nicholson,  following  these 
with  Fort  Schuyler,  since  called  Fort  Anne,  Forts  Ed- 
ward and  William  Henry,  the  last  two  built  in  1755. 
Thus  a  cordon  of  forts,  French  and  English,  guarded 
this  important  waterway,  with  its  portages,  from  New 
York  to  Montreal,  and  it  was  known  as  the  "  Grand 
Pass." 

A  contemporary  idea  of  the  condition  of  the  settle- 
ments at  this  time  can  be  best  obtained  from  the  narra- 
tive of  James  Johnson,  who  was  captured  at  old  Fort 
Number  Four  on  the  Connecticut  in  1757,  and  taken 
over  this  route  to  Montreal.  The  following  is  an  ex- 
tract from  his  journal,  which  has  never  been  published  : 

From  Crown  Point  I  went  to  St.  Johns  fort  (Richelieu)  at  the 
end  of  ye  lake,  and  from  there  to  Champlain  River  (Richelieu)  & 
that  from  St.  Johns  fort  to  St.  Francis  is  about  fifty  miles  near  north 
&  from  St.  Francis  to  St.  Lawrence  is  about  five  miles  &  that  ye 
Rout  between  St.  Johns  and  St.  Francis  there  are  two  Rows  of 
houses  one  on  each  side  of  ye  River  (Richelieu)  in  the  whole  about 
two  hundred  in  some  places  pretty  thick  &  a  fort  at  Chamblain  as 
Strong  as  Crown  Point  &  the  whole  village  of  St.  Francis  stands  on 
an  rise  of  Ground  Mountains  nearly  forty  buildings  of  all  sorts  that 
there  is  no  fort  in  it  but  some  stone  buildings  no  considerable  set- 
tlement within  fifteen  miles  of  S.  Francis  and  that  there  is  St.  Fran- 
cis and  Shatacooks  (an  Indian  settlement  below  St.  Francis)  about 
one  hundred  and  twenty  fighting  men  that  St.  Francis  Lyes  on  ye 
north  side  of  ye  River  of  that  Name. 

The  valley  of  the  Richelieu  is  the  land  of  the  butter- 


298  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

cup.      It  is  of  its  towns  that  the  thoughtful  Thoreau, 

who  has  been  quoted  before,  says  : 

The  names  of  humble  Canadian  villages  affected  me  as  if  they 
had  been  those  of  the  renowned  cities  of  antiquity.  To  be  told  by 
a  habitan,  when  I  asked  the  name  of  a  village  in  sight,  that  it  was 
St.  Fereole  or  Ste.  Anne,  the  Guardian  Angel  or  the  ffoly  Joseph's ; 
or  of  a  mountain,  that  it  was  Belange  or  St.  Hyacinthe  !  As  soon 
as  you  leave  the  States,  these  saintly  names  begin — and  thence 
forward,  the  names  of  mountains,  and  streams,  and  villages  reel,  if 
I  may  so  speak,  with  the  intoxication  of  poetry — Chambly,  Longueil, 
Poinie  aux  Trembles,  Bartholomy,  Sec,  Sec,  as  if  it  needed  only  a 
little  foreign  accent,  a  few  more  liquids  and  vowels,  perchance,  in 
the  language,  to  make  us  locate  our  ideals  at  once.  I  began  to 
dream  of  Provence  and  the  Troubadours,  and  of  places  and  things 
which  have  no  existence  on  earth.  They  veiled  the  Indian  and  the 
primitive  forest;  and  the  woods  toward  Hudson  Bay,  were  only  as 
the  forests  of  France  and  Germany.  I  could  not  at  once  bring  my- 
self to  believe  that  the  inhabitants  who  pronounced  daily  those 
beautiful  and,  to  me,  significant  names,  lead  as  prosaic  lives  as  we 
of  New  England. 

Another  shade,  however,  rises  above  these  clustered 

memories  of  saints  and  divines,  a  wraith  of  war  with  its 

mail-clad  legions : 

Through  this  cassock  gleamed  a  steel  cuirass.  Though  the  splen- 
did illusions  of  the  Old  Regime  have  long  since  faded,  the  haughty 
names  of  that  epoch  still  kindle  with  an  afterglow.  By  the  mere 
names  of  these  villages,  towns,  and  seigniories,  you  may  conjure 
back  Louis  Quatorze  and  Versailles  ;  the  statecraft  of  Colbert ; 
the  soldiers  of  Turenne  and  Vauban.  Picketed  around  the  ancient 
rendezvous  at  the  confluence  of  the  Richelieu  and  St.  Lawrence 
are  the  officers  of  the  Carignan-Salieres,  as  though  still  guarding 
the  Iroquois  River-Gate  and  the  approaches  to  Montreal: — Captain 
Berthier,  Lieutenant  Lavaltrie  ;  Boucher,  Varennes,  Vercheres, 
Contrecoeur.  Twilight  in  these  ancient  woodlands  awakens  sleep- 
ing echoes  and  dead  centuries  ;  with  the  rising  night-wind  the  whole 
place  seems 

Filled  as  with  shadow  of  sound,  with  the  pulse  of  invisible  feet. 


The  Region  of  Rivers  299 

Through  the  forest-aisles  ring  out  elfin  trumpet  calls  ;  we  hear  the 
rheille  of  ghostly  drum-beating  ;  the  prancing  of  phantom  horses  ; 
the  clinking  of  sabres  ;  the  measured  tread  of  Louis  the  Four- 
teenth's battalions.  At  roll-call  we  hear  officers  answer  to  familiar 
names  : — "  Captain  Sorel  ?  " — "  Here  !  " — "  Captain  St.  Ours  ?  " — 
"  Here  !  "— "  Captain  Chambly  ?  "— "  Here  !  "—And  in  good  truth 
most  of  them  are  still  here.  In  the  soft  grass  of  God's  Acre  they 
are  resting,  surrounded  by  those  faithful  soldiers  who  in  death,  as 
in  life,  have  not  deserted  them.  Together  these  veterans  fought 
the  Turk  in  Hungary  and  drove  them  into  the  Raab  ;  together  they 
chased  the  Iroquois  up  the  Richelieu,  and  down  the  Mohawk  Val- 
ley ;  and,  after  van  and  rear  had  passed  a  darker  valley  and  an 
icier  flood,  they  mustered  here  at  last  in  ghostly  bivouac  together. 

Ay,  the  historic  Grand  Pass  of  the  Richelieu  was 
the  pathway  of  illustrious  trains,  led  by  Champlain, 
and  followed  by  Courcelles,  De  Tracy,  and  others  in 
their  sallies  against  the  Iroquois.  Then  it  became  the 
course  of  the  leaders  of  Frontenac's  "winter  raids" 
against  the  English.  Again,  in  the  Seven  Years'  War, 
it  was  over  this  track  Montcalm  and  his  generals  led 
the  French  army  in  their  attacks  upon  Crown  Point, 
Ticonderoga,  and  Fort  William  Henry.  Once  more, 
with  a  brief  respite  between,  this  became  the  war-path 
of  Montgomery  upon  his  invasion  of  Canada,  and  cap- 
ture of  Forts  St.  John  and  Chambly,  when  he  went  to 
unite  with  Arnold  at  Quebec  in  a  forlorn  attack  upon 
that  noted  stronghold.  Over  this  way,  too,  passed,  on 
their  warlike  journeys.  Baron  Dieskau,  Johnson,  Aber- 
crombie,  and  Burgoyne.  When  at  last  peace  settled  her 
white  wings  silently  and  gently  over  this  fair  corner  of 
country,  the  train  of  hom.e-makers  found  here  an  attrac- 
tive path  to  civil  pursuits  rather  than  to  those  of  carnage. 


Chapter  XXII 
Canada's  "White  City" 

Oldest  Town  on  the  St.  Lawrence — Victoria  Bridge — Helen's  Island — "All  's 
Lost  but  Honour" — History  and  Tragedy — First  Steamer  on  the  St.  Lawrence 
— Churches — Notre  Dame — Great  Bell — Midnight  Mass — the  Devil  and  the 
Wind — Grave  of  le  Rat — Recollet  Gate — Public  Parks — Terrible  Fate  of 
the  Four  Iroquois  Brothers — Noted  Homes — Chateau  de  Ramezay — Scene 
of  Momentous  Events — Hallowed  by  the  Presence  of  Famous  Men — Old 
Kitchen — Portrait  Gallery — Future  of  Montreal. 

IF  Montreal  fails  to  present  the  bold,  grand,  pic- 
turesque features  of  Quebec,  it  is  not  without  its 
charms  of  a  gentler  nature,  with  a  story  older  and 
as  romantic  as  that  of  her  sister.  Connecting  the  tra- 
ditions of  Hochelaga  to  the  history  of  the  present 
metropolis,  it  becomes  the  oldest  town  in  Canada.  It 
was  here,  longer  ago  than  the  legends  of  its  people  can 
show,  that  a  populous  village  existed,  or  rather,  as  it 
seems,  collection  of  villages.  Cartier  visited  this  prim- 
itive settlement  on  a  beautiful  autumn  day  in  1535. 
The  people  were  probably  Hurons,  but  when  Cham- 
plain  arrived,  upon  his  first  voyage  up  the  river, 
the  inhabitants  had  vanished,  the  rude  dwellings 
and   fortifications  had  crumbled  to  dust,   and  another 

tribe  of  men  wandered  about  the  deserted  town,  with 

300 


Canada's  ''White  City"  301 

nothing  to  mark  the  site  of  the  ancient  capital.  Hap- 
pily this  has  been  found,  through  the  excavations  made 
for  the  foundations  of  some  of  the  modern  buildino-s 
to  have  been  where  Sherbrooke  Street  runs  toward  Met- 
calfe, nearly  opposite  the  McGill  grounds.  A  tablet 
now  marks  the  place. 

The  St.  Lawrence  along  this  portion  is  seen  in  one 
of  its  happiest  moods,  and,  with  the  Ottawa,  forms  an 
island  thirty-two  miles  in  length  and  a  little  over  ten 
miles  in  width.  The  surface  is  moderately  level,  over- 
looked, like  a  watcher  always  on  duty,  by  that  peerless 
hemisphere,  Mount  Royal.  In  the  days  of  its  forest 
and  foliage,  it  must  indeed  have  been  a  primeval 
paradise,  where  the  bronze-hued  inhabitants  of  Hoche- 
laga,  and  yet  other  towns  antedating  that,  came  and 
went  in  wanton  freedom,  with  no  greater  care  to  vex 
them  than  the  shade  of  the  passing  hour,  and  who  left 
no  more  enduring  monuments  than  footprints  in  the 
sand.  May  not  the  day  come  when  the  same  shall 
be  said  of  the  existing  race,  in  spite  of  their  granite 
pillars,  which  are  but  the  sands  of  eternity  ? 

In  Montreal  there  is  plenty  of  room — no  call,  as  in 
Quebec,  for  narrow,  crooked  streets  winding  up  steep 
rock-sides,  nor  for  one  town  built  to  overlap  another. 
But  each,  in  its  way,  had  a  purpose.  Why,  had  there 
been  no  rock  of  Quebec,  the  early  history  of  Canada 
might  have  been  written  in  a  different  language.  The 
approach  to  "  the  white  city  of  Canada,"  as  Montreal 
has  been  poetically  pictured,  on  account  of  the  large 


302  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

amount  of  light-grey  Hmestone  used  in  its  building  ma- 
terial, has  been  aptly  described  as 

a  picture  surpassingly  beautiful.  The  solid  stone  piers  and  massive 
warehouses  in  the  foreground,  the  bright-roofed  buildings  and  glist- 
ening church  spires  in  the  middle  distance,  with  the  noble  Mount 
Royal  in  the  background,  delight  the  artistic  sense,  and  inspire  emo- 
tions of  the  keenest  pleasure.  Viewed  from  the  mountain  itself,  the 
picture,  while  totally  different,  is  none  the  less  attractive.  The  field 
of  view  is  greatly  extended,  and  the  eye  takes  in  a  grand  panorama 
of  river  and  mountain  scenery,  with  the  city  below  in  near  per- 
spective. Almost  at  your  feet,  and  excavated  from  the  solid  rock 
in  the  side  of  the  mountain,  is  the  storage  reservoir  of  the  city 
water-works.  Farther  down,  and  sloping  away  from  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  the  streets  of  the  city  intersect  each  other,  adorned  with 
public  and  private  buildings,  and  beautifully  shaded  with  trees  and 
foliage.  As  far  as  the  vision  can  extend,  to  the  right  and  left  the 
sparkling  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence  are  to  be  seen,  a  throbbing 
artery  of  inland  commerce,  dotted  with  shipping,  while  the  distant 
background  is  made  up  of  mountain  ranges,  some  of  which  are 
in  Canada,  while  dimly  outlined  on  the  horizon  are  the  peaks  of  the 
Green  Mountains  of  Vermont. 

The  first  object  of  conspicuous  interest  to  the  trav- 
eller who  approaches  by  rail  from  the  historic  valley  of 
the  Richelieu  is  the  famous  Victoria  Bridge,  spanning 
the  south  channel  of  the  Mother  of  Rivers.  This  struct- 
ure is  nearly  two  miles  long,  hung  like  a  dark  ribbon 
sixty  feet  above  the  water.  With  long  abutments  at 
the  ends,  it  has  twenty-four  spans  242  feet  in  length 
each,  and  a  link  in  the  middle  330  feet  long.  This 
bridge,  considered  at  the  time  (i860)  a  great  feat  of 
engineering,  was  conceived  by  the  Hon.  John  Young, 
of  Montreal,  designed  by  Robert  Stephenson  of  Eng- 


Canada's  '*  White  City  "  303 

land,  and  built  by  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  at  a  cost 
of  about  $7,000,000. 

Nearly  opposite  the  city  is  one  of  the  fairest  islands 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  Helen's  Isle,  perpetuating  the  name 
of  Champlain's  young  wife — who  was  only  twelve  when 
he  married  her.  This  is  now  a  favourite  resort  for 
pleasure-seekers,  though  for  a  long  period  under  the 
old  regime  it  was  a  French  military  station.  It  was 
here  that  Marquis  de  Levis,  the  last  commander  of  a 
French  army  in  New  France,  retired  and  burned  his 
flags  in  the  presence  of  his  soldiers  on  the  night  before 
the  surrender  of  the  colony  to  Great  Britain,  and 
beneath  a  "  weeping  elm  "  signed  the  articles  of  capitula- 
tion. These  pathetic  incidents  inspired  one  of  Canada's 
poets  to  compose  his  stirring  poem,  All  Lost  but  Hon- 
our, This  island  was  once  owned  by  Champlain,  pur- 
chased by  him  with  his  wife's  money.  It  was  the 
scene  of  the  murder  by  the  Iroquois  of  two  young  men 
named  Magna  and  Dufresne,  in  the  summer  of  1664, — 
but  one  incident  of  this  kind  among  many.  Around 
Montreal 

the  landscape  is  one  long  page  of  history  and  tragedy.  Many  a 
pre-historic  savage  fight  must  have  taken  place  in  the  neighbour- 
hood; many  a  canoe  full  of  painted  warriors  have  crept  stealthily 
along  the  shores.  Round  about,  many  a  party  of  settlers  was  mur- 
dered by  the  Iroquois  in  the  earlest  days  of  the  colony  .  .  ,  and 
on  Moffat's,  or  Ile-a-la-Pierre,  Father  Guillaume  Vignal  was  slain 
by  an  Iroquois  ambush  during  a  fierce  battle  of  a  quarry  in  1659. 
.  .  .  La  Prairie,  far  over  to  the  south,  across  the  water,  was  the 
scene,  in  1691,  of  the  celebrated  and  desperate  battle  of  La  Prairie, 
the  first  land  attack  by  the  British  upon  Canada. 


304  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Longueuil,  across  the  river,  can  boast  of  having 
been  the  site  of  the  grandest  feudal  castle  in  New- 
France  during  the  eighteenth  century.  Leaving  the 
fortress-like  walls,  tower,  and  chapel  to  memory,  where 
they  have  existed  for  a  long  time,  we  will  return  to  the 
city,  which,  with  the  exception  of  Quebec,  has  the  most 
favourable  situation  of  the  cities  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Over  six  hundred  miles  from  the  outlet  of  the  river  it 
has  a  fine  harbour,  though  before  1850  a  vessel  drawing 
more  than  eleven  feet  of  water  could  not  come  up  thus 
far.  But  this  has  been  changed  in  the  last  half-cent- 
tury,  and  a  channel  over  twenty-seven  feet  deep  has 
been  dredged,  so  the  largest  ships  from  the  Atlantic 
Ocean  now  moor  at  its  piers.  It  is  a  creditable  fact, 
that  only  two  years  after  Fulton  had  launched  his  first 
steamboat,  in  1807,  ^^-  John  Molson  launched  the  first 
steamboat  on  the  St.  Lawrence.  This  is  recorded  by  a 
tablet  bearing  the  following  inscription  :  "  To  the  Hon- 
ourable John  Molson,  the  Father  of  Steam  Navigation 
on  the  St.  Lawrence.  He  launched  the  steamer  *  Ac- 
commodation,' for  Montreal  and  Quebec  service,  1809." 

Montreal  is  built  upon  a  series  of  terraces  marking 
the  different  margins  of  the  river ;  the  streets  are  well 
paved,  and  the  buildings  imposing  and  substantial.  Had 
this  city  no  other  attraction,  its  public  buildings  would 
insure  it  more  than  passing  notice.  Foremost  among 
these  are  its  churches,  first  of  which  stands  Notre  Dame, 
with  its  twin  towers  rising  to  the  height  of  220  feet,  one 
boasting  of  a  chime  of  bells  second  to  none  in  the  North- 


Canada's  "White  City"  305 

land,  and  its  mate,  the  huge  Gros  Botirdon,  which  weighs 
24,780  pounds  the  largest  suspended  bell  in  America. 
This  magnificent  house  of  divine  worship,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  cathedral  standing  on  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Aztec  pyramids  of  Mexico,  is  the  largest  church 
building  in  America,  and  has  a  seating  capacity  of  about 
fifteen  thousand  persons.  It  was  built  in  1829  after  a 
Gothic  style  adapted  to  French  taste,  and  has  become 
the  leading  temple  of  a  race.  Perhaps  the  most  im- 
posing and  impressive  scene  to  be  witnessed  in  Notre 
Dame  is  the  midnight  mass.  Under  the  mystic  influ- 
ence of  devout  strains  of  sacred  music,  at  that  solemn 
hour  when  the  human  heart  is  most  easily  swayed  by 
surrounding  incentives,  with  all  the  beauty  and  solem- 
nity of  the  building  displayed  at  its  best,  in  the  presence 
of  its  fifteen  thousand  worshippers,  there  is  nothing  to 
equal  this  grand,  pathetic,  picturesque  ceremony, — not 
even  in  that  form  of  religious  worship  which  is  so 
grandly  beautiful  in  this  respect.  Notre  Dame  is  a 
place  to  thrill  the  soul,  and  leave  an  impression  that 
may  never  be  effaced. 

Other  churches  have  their  attractions  in  their  adorn- 
ments of  statuary,  fine  paintings,  noble  interior  finish, 
or  historic  setting.  As  has  been  mentioned,  the  origi- 
nal church  in  Montreal  was  builded  of  bark  and  inclosed 
by  fortress  walls.  This  was  suceeded  in  1656,  by  the 
first  Parish  Church,  which  stood  on  the  north  corner 
where  St.  Paul  and  St.  Sulpice  streets  now  cross.  That, 
in  turn,  has  been  supplanted  by  others,  to  be  removed 


3o6  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

as  the  city  grew  and  the  ground  became  needed  for 
Notre  Dame  Street.  Pausing,  upon  a  warm  summer 
day,  where  St.  Sulpice  and  Notre  Dame  streets  meet, 
in  front  of  the  church,  and  feeHng  a  cool  breath  of  air, 
which  it  is  claimed  is  always  blowing  here,  the  following 
legend  is  retold  by  the  old  resident : 

The  Devil  and  the  Wind  were  walking  down  Notre 
Dame  Street,  when  the  church  was  being  built,  and  upon 
seeing  its  graceful  outlines  rise  before  him,  the  former 
exclaimed :  "  What  is  this  ?  I  never  saw  it  before." 
"  That  may  be  true."  replied  the  Wind.  "  I  dare  you 
to  go  in  there."  "You  dare  me  to  do  that,  do  you?" 
cried  the  Devil,  with  a  smile.  "  I  will  do  it  if  you  will 
promise  to  wait  here  until  I  come  out."  "  I  will,"  re- 
plied the  Wind.  So  his  majesty  went  in.  He  has 
never  come  out  yet,  and  the  Wind  is  still  waiting  for 
him  at  the  corner. 

Under  the  pavements  of  Notre  Dame  Street,  in 
front  of  where  the  old  Parish  Church  stood,  a  fitting 
tomb  indeed  for  such  a  wild  nature,  He  the  bones  of 
Kondiaronk,  le  Rat,  the  Huron  Chief,  mention  of  whom 
was  made  when  he  "  broke  the  peace "  between  the 
French  and  the  Iroquois.  It  is  said  he  fell  dead  in  the 
midst  of  a  burst  of  eloquence  while  addressing  the 
allied  forces  of  Hurons  and  French  gathered  in  council 
at  this  spot. 

Another  place  of  interest  on  Notre  Dame  Street  is 
the  site  of  the  old  Recollet  Gate,  bearing"  this  tablet, — 
and  you  will   observe    that    memorials    are    plenty  in 


— IH 


2   z 


?■•   j= 


Canada's  ''  White  City  "  307 

Montreal,  to  the  credit  of  her  citizens : — "  RecolMt  Gate : 
By  this  gate  Amherst  took  possession,  8th  September, 
1760.  General  Hull,  U.  S.  Army,  twenty-five  officers, 
three  hundred  and  fifty  men,  entered  prisoners  of  war, 
20th  September,  18 12." 

Montreal  has  many  squares  and  public  parks  worthy 
of  description.  Foremost  among  these  must  be  num- 
bered that  place  designed  to  commemorate  the  heroic 
deed  of  Maisonneuve,  as  described  in  another  chapter. 
This  is  properly  the  heart  of  the  great  city,  where  more 
and  deeper  interests  centre  than  elsewhere,  the  multi- 
tude moving  to  and  fro  under  the  beautiful  figure  of 
that  early  hero,  who  does  not  look  down  upon  them  in 
bronze  with  greater  calmness  than  he  displayed  during 
the  critical  period  of  founding  the  first  settlement,  when 
he  showed  himself  master  of  the  dangerous  situation. 
The  statue  was  designed  by  a  native  sculptor,  Louis 
Hebert,  and  represents  the  hero  in  the  French  costume 
of  that  day,  the  right  hand  holding  the  fleur-de-lis  of 
his  fatherland.  The  granite  pedestal  has  this  inscrip- 
tion :  "  Paul  de  Chomedy  de  Maisonneuve,  Foundateur 
de  Montreal,  1642."  The  fountain  upon  which  it  rests 
has  four  bas-reliefs,  showing  the  following  scenes  and 
actors  :  Maisonneuve  killing  the  Indian  chief ;  the 
foundinor  of  Ville-Marie  ;  the  fate  of  the  heroic  Lambert 
Closse,  who  began  to  fret  because  he  was  not  killed 
fighting  the  heathen,  but  who  finally  met  such  a  death 
defending  the  gate  at  St.  Lambert  Hill ;  last,  but  not 
least,  the   fall   of   the   heroic    Daulac,  with    his   brave 


o 


08  The  St.  Lawrence  River 


companions  at  Long  Sault  on  the  Ottawa.  The  four 
corners  have  each  a  hfe-size  figure  in  bronze  :  a  colonist, 
a  colonist's  wife,  an  Indian,  the  dog  Pilote,  and  a 
soldier. 

Omitting  mention  of  the  other  beautiful  squares, 
every  one  of  which  deserves  description,  it  will  not  do 
to  forget  that  ideal  park,  the  beautiful  crown  of  a 
beautiful  city.  Mount  Royal,  the  noble  lookout  which 
attracted  Cartier  as  he  came  up  the  river,  which  drew 
like  a  magnet  to  its  summit  the  sturdy  Champlain,  and 
which  a  little  later  was  climbed  to  its  crest  by  Maison- 
neuve  with  the  huge  cross  in  his  arms  he  had  vowed  to 
set  up  in  thankfulness  for  the  escape  of  the  colony  from 
flood  and  famine.  Like  that  huge  "  Punch  Bowl  "  over- 
looking the  beautiful  capital  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands, 
Honolulu,  Mount  Royal  is  really  the  shoulders  of  a  vol- 
cano with  its  head  blown  off.  It  was  in  prehistoric 
ages,  when  it  belched  forth  its  molten  floods  and  wrote 
its  daily  history  in  letters  of  fire  upon  the  sky,  a  high 
mountain,  with  one  foot  planted  on  St.  Helen's  Island 
and  the  other  far  back  toward  the  hoary  Laurentides. 
It  now  lifts  its  dismantled  body  900  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  740  feet  above  the  river.  It  covers  about  450 
acres,  and  the  last  purchase  of  private  owners  by  the 
city  was  made  in  i860.  No  better  description  of  its 
view  can  be  given  in  as  many  words  than  that  of  the 
poet : 

Changing  its  hue  with  the  changing  sky, 
The  River  flows  in  its  beauty  rare  ; 


Canada's  "White  City"  309 

While  across  the  plain  eternal  rise 

Boucherville,  Rougemont,  and  St.  Hilaire. 

Far  to  the  westward  lies  La  Chine, 
Gate  of  the  Orient  long  ago, 

When  the  virgin  forest  swept  between 

The  Royal  Mount  and  the  River  below. 

Upon  the  one  hand  we  look  down  upon  the  busy, 
prosperous  city  of  commerce  and  inland  trade  in  its  very 
substantial  form,  and  not  as  the  devout  Jeanne  Mance 
saw  it,  when 

God,  lifting  for  her  the  veils  of  space,  showed  to  her,  while  yet 
in  France,  in  a  divine  vision,  the  shores  of  our  isles,  and  the  site  of 
Ville- Marie  at  the  foot  of  the  Mountain  and  on  the  shore  of  its 
great  River. 

To  the  north  the  Riviere  des  Prairies,  a  branch  of 
the  Ottawa,  winds  downward,  while  above  the  island 
rests  that  jewel  of  the  uplands,  the  Lake  of  Two 
Mountains. 

Coming  back  we  reach  Jacques  Cartier  Square, 
where  once  stood  the  St.  Francis  Gate.  As  we  stand 
upon  this  hallowed  spot,  the  unhappy  fate  of  the  four 
Iroquois  warriors  who  perished  here  rises  vividly  before 
our  mind.  Let  it  be  repeated  in  the  words  of  an  eye- 
witness, and,  while  it  is  not  pleasant  reading,  it  will 
possibly  impress  us  with  the  fact  that  not  all  of  the 
barbarism  belonged  to  the  untutored  race,  and  that  men 
in  sacerdotal  robes  sometimes  were  more  human  than 
divine.     Let  the  narrator  tell  his  story : 

When  I  came  to  Montreal  for  the  first  time  it  was  by  the  St. 
Francis  Gate,  and  as  I  was  speaking  to  a  friend,  I  became  distracted 


3IO  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

because  of  a  large  crowd  that  I  saw  on  the  Place  des  /estates.  There- 
upon my  comrade  said:  "Upon  my  word,  you  have  come  just  in 
time  to  see  four  Iroquois  burned  alive.  Come  on  as  far  as  the 
Jesuites,  we  '11  see  better."  It  was  immediately  in  front  of  their 
door  that  this  bloody  tragedy  was  to  take  place.  I  thought  at  first 
they  would  throw  the  poor  wretches  into  the  fire;  but  upon  looking 
on  all  side  I  saw  no  faggots  for  the  sacrifice  of  victims,  and  I  ques- 
tioned my  friend  about  several  small  fires  which  I  saw  certain  dis- 
tances apart  from  each  other.  He  answered  me:  "  Patience  ;  we 
are  going  to  have  some  good  laughing."  For  some  time  it  was  no 
laughing  matter.  They  led  out  these  four  wild  men,  who  were 
brothers,  and  the  finest  looking  men  I  have  even  seen  in  my  life. 
Then  the  Jesuites  baptised  them  and  made  them  some  scanty  ex- 
hortations; for,  to  speak  freely,  to  do  more  would  have  been  "to  wash 
the  head  of  a  corpse."  The  holy  ceremony  finished,  they  were  then 
taken  hold  of  and  submitted  to  punishments  of  which  they  were  the 
inventors.  They  bound  them  naked  to  the  stakes  stuck  three  or  four 
feet  in  the  ground,  and  then  each  of  our  Indian  allies,  as  well  as  sev- 
eral Frenchmen,  armed  themselves  with  bits  of  red-hot  iron,  where- 
with they  broiled  all  parts  of  their  bodies.  Those  small  fires  which 
I  had  seen  served  as  forges  to  heat  the  abominable  instruments  with 
which  they  roasted  them.  Their  torture  lasted  six  hours,  during 
which  they  never  ceased  to  chant  of  their  deeds  of  war. 

Similar  scenes  to  this  were  enacted  in  Quebec  and 
elsewhere,  so  the  pity  is  not  wholly  a  one-sided  affair. 
We  find  the  streets  of  the  older  section  of  the  city 
redolent  with  memories  of  a  stormy  past.  Down  there 
is  a  stone  marking  the  spot  where  Cartier  landed  in 
1535.  On  the  site  of  the  present  custom-house  the  gal- 
lant Champlain,  the  founder  of  New  France,  established 
a  trading  post  in  161 1,  which  he  named  Place  Royale. 
At  the  corner  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  streets  was  the 
house  in  which  La  Salle  lived  in  1668,  two  years  after 
he  came  to  Montreal.      On  the  corner  of  the  street  by 


o   ^ 


tl.    ^ 


>    2 


Canada's  ''  White  City  "  311 

the  Parish  Church  was  for  a  time  the  home  of  another 
noted  explorer  of  the  Mississippi,  Daniel  de  Gresolon, 
Sieur  Dulhut,  or  Du  Luth.  Before  leaving  France  in 
1668,  he  was  a  soldier  in  the  King's  Guard.  He  passed 
three  years  in  the  solitude  of  the  wilderness,  and  in 
1688  came  to  Montreal  to  live.  The  city  of  Duluth 
was  named  for  him.  On  Notre  Dame  Street,  just  east 
of  St.  Lambert  Hill,  is  another  tablet  which  tells  its 
own  story:  "In  1694,  here  stood  the  house  of  La 
Mothe,  the  founder  of  Detroit."  Near  by  were  the 
homes  of  Frazer,  Henry,  Mackenzie,  and  other  great 
fur-traders,  who  governed  the  great, North-west  be- 
fore the  vanguard  of  civilisation  had  yet  reached 
the  country.  Below  Longueuil  was  the  seigniory  of 
Pierre  Gauthier  de  Varennes,  Sieur  de  la  Verandrye, 
the  discoverer  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  in  1742,  and 
who  did  a  great  service  for  Canada  by  his  explorations. 
Where  the  Bonsecours  Market  is,  was  the  mansion  of 
Baron  Longueuil,  where  the  Intendant  Bigot  stayed 
when  in  Montreal.  Put  by  the  magic  mirror.  We  can- 
not stop  to  see  them  all  ! 

So  far  we  have  talked  of  sites  and  memories  of 
famous  buildings.  Now  let  us  visit  one  that  is  still 
standing  in  good  preservation,  the  oldest  public  build- 
ing in  the  country,  erected  in  the  days  of  Louis  XIV.,  the 
Chateau  de  Ramezay.  It  is  doubtful  if  there  is  another 
building  in  America  around  which  cluster  so  many 
associations  of  bygone  days,  so  many  shades  of  historic 
figures,  so  many  scenes  of  social  and  political  life,  not 


312  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

only  in  the  times  of  French  supremacy,  but  all  along 
the  pathway  of  English  dominion.  To  begin  at  the 
beginning,  as  Knickerbocker  did  in  his  History  of  New 
York,  this  ancient  edifice  was  builded  by  Claude  de 
Ramezay,  the  eleventh  Governor  of  Montreal,  in  1705, 
just  two  hundred  years  ago.  It  was  very  appropriately 
raised  in  what  was  then  the  heart  of  the  most  fashion- 
able and  important  part  of  the  town.  Standing  upon  a 
slight  elevation,  scarcely  to  be  noticed  now,  it  had  a 
plain  view  of  the  river-front.  Among  its  neighbours  it 
numbered  such  illustrious  dwellings  as  the  abodes  of 
Baron  de  Longueuil,  D'Aillebouts,  D'Eschambaults, 
Madame  de  Portneuf,  the  widow  of  Baron  Becancourt. 
Its  owner  was  one  of  the  most  prominent  men  of  his 
age,  holding  one  important  public  position  after  another 
for  forty  years.  He  had  come  to  the  valley  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  in  1685,  In  his  twenty-eighth  year,  in  the  suite 
of  Governor  Denonville.  He  was  a  lieutenant  under 
De  Troye  of  the  marine  troops.  Two  years  later  he 
had  become  colonel,  and  in  1703  he  was  made  Gov- 
ernor, holding  that  high  position  until  1724.  During 
the  attack  of  Phips  against  Quebec,  he  had  hastened 
hither  with  eight  hundred  men  from  Montreal.  He 
not  only  performed  a  gallant  part  in  the  defence  of 
the  city,  but  won  for  his  prize  the  heart  and  hand 
of  a  fair  daughter  of  Quebec,  Mademoiselle  Marie- 
Charlotte  Deny,  who  belonged  to  one  of  the  oldest 
and  noblest  houses  of  Canada.  Another  connected 
with  that  exciting  experience,  De  Vaudreuil,  also,  later, 


3       O 


<     5 
X     S 

o   ^ 

SI 

u     a 

E     E 


Canada's  *•  White  City"  313 

Governor,  was  equally  fortunate  in  winning  a  bride 
almost  before  the  ships  of  the  New  Englander  had  dis- 
appeared behind  the  Point  of  Orleans.  It  seemed  like 
the  irony  of  fate  that  a  son  of  the  first  should  be  the 
one  to  open  the  gates  of  Quebec  to  the  English  in 
1 759,  and  a  son  of  the  latter  should  perform  a  similar 
unpleasant  service  in  Montreal  a  few  months  later. 

During  the  7'egime  of  Governor  de  Ramezay  the 
chateau  was  ablaze  with  the  glory  of  the  times.  Here 
met  many  an  illustrious  assembly,  consisting  not  only  of 
the  Governor-General,  the  Intendant,  and  their  suites, 
but  the  leading  military  and  political  spirits  of  that 
stirring  period.  Here  were  held  the  councils  of  war, 
and  here  were  considered  the  terms  of  peace.  Here 
many  of  the  early  discoverers  bade  their  last  adieu  to 
friends  and  patrons  before  setting  out  on  their  long  and 
uncertain  voyages,  and  from  here  went  forth  expedi- 
tions into  the  wilderness  in  the  interests  of  the  fur- 
trade.  Upon  their  return  were  the  plans  perfected  for 
those  annual  fairs  which  were  both  a  curse  and  a  bless- 
inor  to  Montreal.  Hither  came  the  Indian  with  his 
grievances,  the  voyageur  with  his  complaints  ;  and  here 
was  given  to  the  plague-stricken,  during  the  sorrowful 
reign  of  the  pest,  in  1721,  the  kindly,  sympathetic  atten- 
tion which  won  the  love  and  respect  of  the  people  for 
the  courteous  Governor  and  his  amiable  wife.  Not 
only  were  the  nobleman  and  his  consort  sure  to  find  a 
cordial  and  courteous  welcome  within  the  chateau,  but 
the  humble  red  man  and  his  squaw  met  with  the  same 


314  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

genial  treatment  from  the  noble  De  Ramezay  and  his 
family. 

After  the  death  of  De  Ramezay,  in  1724,  the  pro- 
perty remained  with  his  heirs  until  1 745,  when  they  sold 
it  to  /<^  Compagnie  des  Indes.  It  then  became  the  head- 
quarters of  the  fur-trade  until  1760,  upon  the  capitu- 
lation of  the  city  to  the  English.  According  to  the 
treaty,  however,  the  company  was  allowed  to  hold  the 
chateau  for  a  period  longer.  In  1764,  it  was  sold  to 
William  Grant,  who  paid  sixty  thousand  livres  in  the 
discredited  money  of  the  country  to  be  redeemed  by  the 
French  Government.  Ten  years  later.  Grant  leased 
the  property  to  the  Government  for  the  residence  of  the 
Lieutenant-Governor,  and  for  the  Governor-General 
when  in  Montreal. 

Soon  after  this,  1 775-76,  the  chateau  became  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Continental  army  under  Montgomery, 
when  Canada  hesitated  between  espousing  the  cause  of 
the  English  colonies  or  that  of  their  King.  The  British 
of  Canada  engaged  in  the  fur-trade  looked  favourably 
upon  the  plot,  while  a  large  percentage  of  the  French, 
not  yet  reconciled  to  their  change  of  masters,  naturally 
sympathised  with  the  colonists  whose  watchword  was 
liberty.  General  Schuyler,  in  command  of  the  army 
of  New  York,  had  been  instructed  to  invade  the  St. 
Lawrence  valley,  but  falling  ill  he  was  succeeded  by 
Montgomery.  Colonel  Ethan  Allen,  connected  with 
Schuyler's  army  as  a  volunteer,  was  sent  upon  a  mission 
of  investigation  to  Montreal,  and  was  captured  on  the 


Canada's  "  White  City  "  315 

25th  of  September,  to  be  sent  to  England  as  a  prisoner 
of  war,  where  he  was  retained  until  May  3,  1778,  when 
he  was  exchanged. 

The  English  having  but  a  small  force  in  Montreal  at 
the  breaking  out  of  the  American  Revolution,  Governor 
Sir  Guy  Carleton  withdrew  to  Quebec,  and,  upon  the 
arrival  of  General  Montgomery,  the  citizens  capitulated. 
On  the  morning  of  the  13th  of  November,  1775,  the 
Continental  army  marched  triumphantly  into  the  city 
by  the  Recollet  Gate,  the  chateau  was  made  the  head- 
quarters of  the  army,  while  Montgomery  stayed  at  a 
house  on  the  corner  of  St.  Peter  and  Notre  Dame 
streets  owned  by  a  merchant  named  Fortier.  Upon 
being  ordered  upon  that  ill-fated  expedition  to  unite 
with  Arnold  in  an  attack  upon  Quebec,  Montgomery 
left  General  Wooster  in  command.  He  was  succeeded 
by  Arnold,  who  was  in  command  at  the  time  of  the 
arrival  of  the  American  Commissioners  sent  to  nego- 
tiate terms  of  compromise  with  the  people. 

These  commissioners,  Benjamin  Franklin,  Charles 
Carroll  of  Carrollton,  and  Samuel  Chase,  held  their 
councils  in  the  chateau,  in  the  room  where  this  is 
written.  But,  by  this  time,  a  feeling  of  indignation 
against  such  a  movement  had  been  aroused  by  the 
priests  and  more  loyal  British.  Reinforced  at  Quebec, 
Carleton  came  up  the  river  with  such  an  army  that  the 
American  Commissioners  were  glad  to  beat  a  retreat. 
Among  those  who  came  with  the  commissioners  was 
a   printer    brought    by    Franklin,    whose    name    was 


3i6  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Fleury  Mesplet.  There  was  no  printer  in  Montreal  at 
that  time,  and  Mesplet  set  up  his  cases  and  hand-press 
in  the  basement  of  the  chateau.  Upon  the  return  to 
Philadelphia  of  Franklin,  Mesplet  soon  after  began  to 
publish  the  Gazette,  a  weekly  newspaper,  which  is  still 
issued,  the  oldest  paper  in  this  part  of  Canada. 

In  1778,  the  chateau  became  the  property  of  the 
British  Government,  and  during  the  troublesome  period 
of  insurrection,  when  a  special  council  was  appointed  by 
the  Governor  to  succeed  the  regular  officials  that 
withdrew,  it  became  the  meeting-place  of  this  council, 
1837-41.  Pending  the  decision  of  new  legislation  the 
seat  of  government  was  removed  to  Kingston,  but  in 
1845  Montreal  again  became  the  capital,  and  the 
chateau  the  headquarters  of  the  Government. 

The  passage  and  adoption  of  the  Rebellion  Loss 
Bill,  which  compensated  those  who  had  fought  against 
the  Government  as  well  as  those  who  stood  loyally  by  it, 
raised  such  a  storm  of  indignation  among  the  English- 
speaking  people  of  Montreal,  that  the  Governor-Gen- 
eral, upon  leaving  the  chateau  after  sanctioning  the  bill, 
was  pelted  with  stones,  and  other  missiles  not  so  severe 
to  the  flesh  but  more  offensive  to  the  nostrils.  During 
the  exciting  period  the  Parliament  Buildings  were  burned 
to  the  ground.  This  caused  the  removal  of  the  Gov- 
ernment to  Ottawa,  and  the  chateau  was  no  more  the 
headquarters  of  its  officials. 

But  its  usefulness  was  not  past,  for  it  was  used  as  a 
court-house   during  the  reconstruction    of  the   present 


Canada's  "White  City"  317 

court  building.  In  1849,  it  began  to  be  occupied  by  the 
Jacques  Cartier  Normal  School,  the  first  established  in 
Canada,  and  it  was  kept  here  until  about  1875,  when  a 
new  building  was  erected  for  the  school.  Then  a  medi- 
cal branch  of  the  Laval  University  of  Quebec  was 
opened  in  the  chateau  ;  and  later,  it  was  occupied  as  an 
annex  to  the  court-house  for  his  Majesty's  court. 

In  1893  the  Government,  concluding  that  it  had  no 
further  use  for  the  venerable  building,  began  negotia- 
tions with  the  city  of  Montreal  for  its  change  of  owner- 
ship, which  was  soon  afterwards  effected.  Then  the 
Numismatic  and  Antiquarian  Society  of  Montreal,  seeing 
the  special  fitness  of  the  ancient  structure  for  its  head- 
quarters, finally  obtained  possession  in  1895,  and  to-day 
have  on  exhibit  here  one  of  the  finest,  if  not  the  finest, 
collections  of  historical  works,  portraits  of  noted  individ- 
uals, and  museum  of  relics  in  the  country.  Surely  a 
happier  or  more  fitting  fate  could  not  have  befallen  it. 
With  walls  of  Montreal  granite,  grey  and  white,  long 
and  rambling,  after  the  architecture  of  the  days  of 
Louis,  the  old  landmark  is  happily  located,  in  a  fine 
state  of  preservation,  with  every  prospect  of  a  beautiful  / 
old  age.  Happy  Chateau  de  Ramezay !  would  that 
others  of  our  historic  buildings  might  share  as  appropri- 
ate a  fate  ! 

Within,  one  treads  upon  the  footprints  of  genera- 
tions gone  the  way  of  dust,  and  breathes  the  atmo- 
sphere of  departed  spirits.  Attended  by  the  courteous 
curator,  whose  fund  of  historic  lore  seems  without  end, 


3i8  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

or  one  of  his  efficient  assistants,  the  visitor  passes  from 
room  to  room  with  ever-increasing  veneration  and  that 
feehng  one  might  have  who  comes  as  an  intruder  upon 
sacred  scenes.  This  apartment  was  the  family  sitting- 
room,  where  the  original  owners  of  the  building  possibly- 
passed  their  happiest  hours  in  those  troublesome  days. 
There  was  the  reception-room,  the  council-chamber,  the 
old  hall  where  so  many  antagonistic  visitors  mingled  in 
peaceful  companionship  under  the  benign  influence  of 
De  Ramezay.  There  stood  the  wily  Huron,  over  near 
the  deep-set  window,  while  he  pleaded  in  wild,  pictur- 
esque language,  half  spoken,  half  acted,  the  cause  of  his 
unfortunate  race.  Here  stood  the  fiery  Vaudreuil,  as 
he  made  reply.  And  from  a  chair  standing  just  over 
there  rose  the  witty  De  Ramezay,  smoothing  the  rug- 
ged way  to  peace  by  his  clear,  forceful  logic.  Franklin's 
chair  must  have  stood  about  where  you  stand,  when, 
with  his  associates,  he  undertook  to  win  over  Canada  to 
the  American  cause,  as  he  had  France.  It  was  here  the 
unfortunate  Montgomery  stood,  as  he  consulted  with 
his  officers  only  the  day  before  he  went  to  fight  and  fall 
for  a  tablet  on  Quebec  rock.  Here,  too,  came  Arnold, 
with  his  sun  at  its  meridian  and  the  dark  clouds  of  dis- 
honour not  yet  risen  on  his  horizon,  to  stand  up  for  his 
people  and  his  country.  Others  came  and  went,  as 
noble  as  these. 

Following  down  the  dark  stairway,  with  its  broad 
steps,  we  come  to  the  old  kitchen,  long  and  stately, 
with  its  stone-ledged  windows,  and  huge  old  fireplace 


■I  'a 


Canada's  ''  White  City  "  319 

at  the  farther  end,  where  burned  many  a  giant  of  the 
forest.  What  feasts  have  been  prepared  here  !  What 
roasts  of  venison  !  Those  were  hardy  days,  when  men 
ate  the  substances  that  made  them  tough  and  stahvart. 
You  see  that  door  over  there  near  the  corner  ?  Behind 
that  was  the  wine  vauh,  larger  than  this  big  kitchen, 
and  from  which  came  more  Hfe  and  vivacity  too.  Ay, 
from  thence  came  the  enemy  that  robbed  the  eloquent 
Huron  on  the  next  floor  of  the  peace  that  he  demanded, 
and  did  more  than  all  else  to  ruin  his  race. 

Fifteen  thousand  volumes,  books  and  pamphlets, 
have  been  collected,  and  relics  and  curios  in  large  num- 
bers. A  section  that  cannot  fail  to  interest  is  the  Por- 
trait Gallery,  from  whose  walls  look  down  upon  the 
beholder  a  vast  company  of  celebrated  actors  in  scenes 
of  American  history.  Foremost  among  these  are  Co- 
lumbus, the  discoverer  of  America ;  Cartler,  the  Colum- 
bus of  Canada ;  Champlain,  the  chivalrous  knight  of 
civilisation  ;  Jean  Baptiste  le  Moyne  de  Bienville,  born 
1680,  died  1768,  founded  New  Orleans,  and  was  Gover- 
nor of  Louisiana  for  twenty-seven  years  ;  a  brother  of 
the  latter,  Sieur  Pierre  le  Moyne  d'Iberville,  born  1661, 
died  1706,  founder  and  first  Governor  of  Louisiana; 
Daniel  Marie  Hyacinthe  Lienard  de  Beaujeu,  born 
1 71 1,  died  1 755,  commander  of  the  army  of  Belle  Rivilre 
(Ohio),  whose  troops  won  the  battle  of  Monongahela 
against  Braddock,  both  of  the  commanders  falling  in  the 
fight,  as  Wolfe  and  Montcalm  fell  on  the  Plains  of  Abra- 
ham four  years  later  ;  Lacorne  St.  Luc,  Knight  of  the 


320  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Order  of  St.  Louis,  and  a  man  of  note  under  the  old 
rdgime ;  ChevaHer  de  Levis,  born  1720,  died  1787,  who 
so  ably  succeeded  Montcalm,  and  won  the  "  second  bat- 
tle of  the  Plains,"  but  was  not  able  to  hold  it ;  Louis 
Joseph  de  Saint  Veran,  Marquis  de  Montcalm,  born 
1 712,  killed  on  Mount  Abraham,  1759.  Then  there  are 
Guy  Carleton,  Lord  Dorchester,  born  1725,  died  1808, 
who  fought  with  Wolfe  on  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  and 
with  Murray  at  Ste.  Foye,  and  was  Governor-General 
of  Canada  for  twenty  years  ;  General  James  Murray, 
who  succeeded  Wolfe  as  commander  of  the  British  army, 
and  who  has  the  credit  of  suggesting  the  plan  of  scaling 
the  heights  at  Anse  du  Foulon  ;  General  James  Wolfe, 
born  1726,  shot  September  14,  1759,  by  his  victory  on 
the  Plains  of  Abraham,  the  virtual  conqueror  of  New 
France  ;  Charles  Cornwallis,  Marquis  Cornwallis,  born 
1738,  died  1805,  Major-General  of  the  British  army 
until  his  surrender  to  General  Washington  at  Yorktown, 
October  19,  1781  ;  Frangois  de  Montmorenci  de  Laval, 
born  1622,  died  1708,  first  Roman  Catholic  Bishop  of 
Canada,  and  a  most  able  and  zealous  prelate;  Jacques 
Marquette,  born  1637,  died  1675,  ^"^^  ^^  ^he  most  illus- 
trious missionaries  and  explorers  of  Canada,  who,  with 
Louis  Joliet,  discovered  the  Mississippi,  June  17,  1673  ; 
Le  Jeune,  the  Father  of  the  Jesuit  missions  in  New 
France,  born  in  1592,  came  to  Canada  in  1632,  preached 
Champlain's  funeral  oration  in  1635,  was  first  of  the  ten 
Superiors  of  the  Church,  wrote  nine  of  the  Relations, 
returned  to  France  in   1650,  and  died  in    1664;  Father 


Canada's  **  White  City"  321 

Jean  de  Brebeuf,  of  the  Society  of  Jesus,  born  1593, 
died  from  tortures  inflicted  by  the  Indians,  1649,  the 
most  illustrious  of  the  martyrs  of  New  France;  Gabriel 
Lalement,  Jesuit  missionary,  born  1610,  perished  by  the 
side  of  Brebeuf  in  the  Huron  country,  in  1649,  whose 
bones,  with  those  of  his  companion,  were  brought  to 
Quebec  for  burial ;  Reverend  Pere  Isaac  Jogues,  born 
1598,  was  massacred  by  the  Mohawks  October  18,  1646, 
and  was  the  first  apostle  to  the  Mission  of  Martyrs  ; 
Charles  Carroll  of  Carrollton  was  one  of  the  commission 
to  meet  at  Chateau  de  Ramezay,  in  1775,  and  was  one 
of  the  signers  of  the  Declaration  of  American  Independ- 
ence in  1776,  dying  November  14,  1832,  the  last  of  the 
famous  group  ;  Major  Robert  Rogers,  Chief  of  the  New 
England  Rangers,  who  organised  and  trained  the  raw 
militia  into  soldiers  of  the  forest,  capable  of  meeting  in 
their  own  tactics  of  warfare  Montcalm's  Indian  infantry. 
But  the  list  is  too  long  to  complete,  and  we  must  quit 
the  old  chateau  and  its  illustrious  guests  with  reluctance, 
Montreal  had  a  population  in  1760,  at  the  close  of 
French  government,  of  about  3000  people  ;  in  1809  this 
number  had  reached  12,000.  To-day  it  makes  a  grand 
total  of  350,000  souls.  This  great  number  is  composed 
of  three  race  divisions,  the  larger  portion  being  French, 
and  comprising  about  200,000 ;  the  English-speaking 
portion,  with  a  strong  Scottish  element  in  its  make-up, 
numbers  about  100,000;  while  the  third  party,  compris- 
ing the  Irish  Roman  Catholic  extraction,  has  about 
50,000  in  numbers. 


322  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Montreal,  the  queenly  Maid  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
has  a  bright  future.  Nature,  as  well  as  man,  intended 
her  for  a  great  and  powerful  metropolis.  Situated,  as 
she  is,  midway  between  the  ocean  and  the  great  Central 
West,  with  its  growing  centres  of  population  and  com- 
merce, and  upon  the  noblest  waterway  in  America,  she 
will  continue  to  grow,  to  prosper,  and  to  rule  the  pro- 
gress of  Canada. 

Sprung  of  the  saint  and  the  chevalier, 

And  with  the  scarlet  tunic  wed  ; 

Mount  Royal's  crown  upon  thy  head, 
And  past  thy  footstool,  broad  and  clear, 

St.  Lawrence  sweeping  to  the  sea  : 

Reign  on,  majestic  Ville-Marie  ! 


Chapter  XXIII 
Climbing  the  Rapids 

The  White  Steamer— Hardships  of   the   Early  Portages—"  Roads   of   Iron  " 

La  Chine  Canal— Nature  Outwitted— The  Place  of  Captives— Lake  St.  Louis 
—The  Ottawa— Once  a  Part  of  the  Great  River— Lake  St.  Francis— Sun- 
set on  the  River— Cornwall— Crossing  the  Line— St.  Regis— Its  Historic  Bell 
— First  Steamer  to  Run  the  Rapids — How  it  was  Done— Prescott- Ancient 
Landmarks— Grave  of  Barbara  Heck—"  Patriot  War  "—Ill-starred  Advent- 
ures— the  Fenian  Insurrection. 

THE  number  of  passengers  who  pass  up  the  St. 
Lawrence  at  this  section  is  small  compared  to 
the  crowds  that  come  down.  This  is  due  to  the 
generally  accepted  idea  that  it  is  a  dull  journey  up  to 
Prescott,  from  Montreal,  covering  the  distance  of  the 
falls,  while  the  excitement  and  novelty  of  "shooting 
the  rapids "  has  given  its  own  peculiar  charm  and  at- 
traction to  the  downward  ride.  But  if  it  takes  a  night 
and  a  part  of  two  days  to  climb  the  distance  made  in  a 
few  hours  coming  down,  there  is  an  interest  and  a  fas- 
cination in  this  upward  trip  which  the  other  does  not 
outrival. 

Moving  where  Cartier  led  nearly  five  hundred  years 
ago,  the  steamer,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  harbour,  enters 
the  La  Chine  Canal,  by  means  of  which  man  has  over- 
come the  obstacles  that  a  great  river  has  thrown  across 

323 


324  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

its  passage,  those  selfsame  obstacles  that  defied  and 
baffled  both  Cartier  and  Champlain,  eager  as  they  were 
to  climb  to  the  regions  beyond.  The  first  explorer, 
after  ascending  the  river  as  he  judged  about  two 
leagues,  and  coming  to  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  says  : 

We  took  counsel  to  go  as  far  as  possible  with  one  of  the  boats, 
and  the  other  should  remain  there  until  we  returned,  so  we  doubled 
the  men  in  the  boat  so  as  to  beat  against  the  current  of  the  said  rapid. 
And  after  we  had  got  far  from  our  other  boat,  we  found  bad  bottom 
and  large  rocks,  and  so  great  a  current  of  water  that  it  was  not  pos- 
sible to  pass  beyond  with  our  boat. 

It  was  then  decided  to  run  ashore,  and  follow  up 
the  bank  to  learn  the  extent  of  the  rapids,  finding  a 
beaten  path  along  which  the  natives  had  passed  in 
their  journeys  up  and  down  the  river,  carrying  their 
canoes.  It  is  not  easy  at  this  period  of  good  roads 
and  rapid  transit  to  appreciate  the  vexatious  delays  and 
perils  accompanying  the  early  traveller,  whose  only  way 
of  progress  was  the  sedgy  streams  of  the  primeval 
forest,  and  only  means  of  conveyance  the  birchen  skiff 
propelled  by  his  own  arm.  Abounding  with  rapids,  as 
most  Canadian  rivers  are,  blocked  with  ice  in  winter,  or 
robbed  of  their  volume  by  the  droughts  of  summer, 
there  were  not  many  days  in  the  journeys  of  the  early 
voyageurs  when  they  did  not  have  to  check  their  ad- 
vance, shoulder  their  baggage  and  canoe,  and  tramp  on 
foot  around  the  impassable  places  of  the  waterway. 
Not  infrequently  these  carrying-places  continued  for 
miles,  even  leagues,  over  broken  spurs  of  mountains, 
or  through  dismal  valleys  overrun  with  parasitic  vines 


AN  OLD  WINDMILL  ON  LOWER  I. A  CHINE  ROAD,  MONTREAL. 
From  a  photograph  by  W.  Notman  &  Son,  Montreal. 


Climbing  the  Rapids  325 

and    crumbling  growths   reeking  with  the   sweat   and 
slime  of  ages. 

Perhaps  no  more  plain  or  sympathetic  account  of 
such  journeys  has  been  given  than  is  to  be  found  in  the 
letters  of  Jesuit  missionaries,  who  of  all  others  were  the 
best  fitted  to  judge.  One  of  these/  in  describing  his 
trip  up  the  St.  Lawrence,  says : 

What  detracts  from  this  river's  utility  is  the  waterfalls  and 
rapids  extending  nearly  forty  leagues, — that  is  from  Montreal  to 
the  mouth  of  Lake  Ontario, —there  being  only  the  two  lakes  I  have 
mentioned  (Lake  St.  Francis  and  Lake  St.  Louis)  where  navigation 
is  easy.  In  ascending  these  rapids  it  is  often  necessary  to  alight 
from  the  canoe  and  walk  in  the  river,  whose  waters  are  rather  low 
in  such  places,  especially  near  the  banks.  The  canoe  is  grasped 
with  the  hand  and  dragged  behind,  two  men  usually  sufficing  for 
this.  .  .  .  Occasionally  one  is  obliged  to  run  it  ashore,  and 
carry  it  for  some  time,  one  man  in  front  and  the  other  behind — the 
first  bearing  the  one  end  of  the  canoe  on  his  right  shoulder,  and 
the  second  the  other  end  on  his  left.  .  .  .  It  is  necessary  to  land 
and  carry  all  the  baggage  through  woods  or  over  high  and  trouble- 
some rocks,  as  well  as  the  canoes  themselves.  This  is  not  done 
without  much  work  ;  for  there  are  portages  of  one,  two,  and  three 
leagues,  and  for  each  several  trips  must  be  made,  no  matter  how 
few  packages  one  has.  I  kept  count  of  the  number  of  portages 
and  found  that  we  carried  our  canoes  thirty-five  times,  and  dragged 
them  at  least  fifty.  I  sometimes  took  a  hand  in  helping  my  Sav- 
ages ;  but  the  bottom  of  the  river  is  full  of  stones  so  sharp  that  I 
could  not  walk  long,  being  barefooted. 

Something  of  the  deprivations,  as  well  as  perils  and 
hardships  of  these  journeys,  is  shown  in  another  place, 
quoting  from  the  same  authority,  in  speaking  of  the 
Huron  mission,  which 

lasted  more  than  sixteen  years,  in  a  country  whither  one  cannot  go 
'  The  Jesjtit  Relations  and  allied  documents. 


326  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

with  other  boats  than  of  bark,  which  carry  at  most  only  two  thou- 
sand livres  of  burden,  including  the  passengers — who  are  frequently 
obliged  to  bear  on  their  shoulders,  from  four  to  six  miles,  along  with 
the  boat  and  the  provisions,  all  the  furniture  for  the  journey;  for 
there  is  not,  in  the  space  of  seven  hundred  miles,  any  inn.  For  this 
reason  we  have  passed  whole  years  without  receiving  so  much  as 
one  letter,  either  from  Europe  or  from  Kebec,  and  in  a  total  depriv- 
ation of  every  human  assistance,  even  that  most  necessary  for  our 
mysteries  and  sacraments  themselves, — the  country  having  neither 
wheat  nor  wine,  which  are  absolutely  indispensable  for  the  Holy 
Sacrifice  of  the  Mass. 

Further  Hght  is  thrown  upon  the  manner  and  asso- 
ciation of  the  native  companions  of  these  humble  fol- 
lowers of  that  faith  which  made  of  them  priests  of  the 
wilderness  : 

To  conciliate  the  Savages,  you  must  be  careful  never  to  make 
them  wait  for  you  in  embarking.  You  must  provide  yourself  with 
a  tinder-box  or  a  burning-mirror,  or  with  both,  to  furnish  them  fire 
in  the  daytime  to  light  their  pipes,  and  in  the  evening  when  they 
have  to  encamp;  these  little  services  win  their  hearts.  You  must 
try  and  eat  at  daybreak  unless  you  can  take  your  meal  with  you  in 
the  canoe;  for  the  day  is  very  long  if  you  have  to  pass  it  without 
eating.  The  Barbarians  eat  only  at  Sunrise  and  at  Sunset,  when  they 
are  on  their  journeys.  .  .  .  To  be  properly  dressed  you  must 
have  your  feet  and  legs  bare;  while  crossing  the  rapids  you  can  wear 
your  shoes,  and,  in  the  long  portages,  even  your  leggins.  ...  It 
is  not  well  to  ask  many  questions,  nor  should  you  yield  to  your 
desire  to  learn  the  language.  .  .  .  You  must  relieve  those  in 
your  canoe  of  this  annoyance.  .  .  .  Each  one  will  try,  at  the 
portages,  to  carry  some  little  thing,  according  to  his  strength;  how- 
ever little  one  carries,  it  greatly  pleases  the  savages,  if  it  be  only  a 
kettle.  ...  Be  careful  not  to  annoy  any  one  in  the  canoe  with 
your  hat;  it  would  be  better  to  take  your  nightcap.  There  is  no 
impropriety  among  the  savages. 

These  Indian  trails  were  aptly  called  by  the  mis- 
sionaries "  roads  of  iron,"  thus  but  faintly  suggesting 


Climbing  the  Rapids  327 

the  fatigue  and  suffering  falling  to  the  lot  of  him  whose 
fortunes  led  him  to  traverse  the  way  already  pressed  by 
thousands  of  feet  that  failed  to  leave  a  single  monument 
along  the  way.  Many  of  these  portages  became  noted 
meeting-places,  where  different  members  of  the  scattered 
tribes  met  by  agreement  or  by  accident  for  a  night's 
bivouac  ;  or  sometimes  they  became  the  battle-ground 
of  rival  clans,  an  example  of  this  kind  being  still  pointed 
out  in  the  north,  beyond  the  Saguenay,  where  the  hosts 
of  Mamelons  suffered  almost  entire  annihilation.  Usu- 
ally they  became  scenes  of  rejoicings  and  wild  excite- 
ment after  a  long,  hard  struggle  to  reach  the  place 
before  the  westering  sun  should  take  its  final  plunge 
into  the  "  sea  of  space  "  on  the  far-distant  horizon. 

The  La  Chine  Canal  was  begun  in  1821,  and  though 
at  first  but  five  feet  deep  and  twenty-eight  feet  wide  at 
the  bottom,  widening  toward  the  top  until  it  was  forty- 
eight  feet,  it  was  a  long  time  in  building  compared  to 
the  way  such  work  is  done  to-day,  and  many  vexations 
and  unlooked-for  perplexities  arose  in  the  path  of  the 
constructor.  Since  then  it  has  been  enlarged  and 
strengthened,  until  now  it  is  capable  of  taking  up  to  the 
placid  waters  of  Lake  St.  Francis  the  big  steamers  that 
draw  fourteen  feet  of  water.  The  performance  is  very 
simple,  this  outwitting  the  current  too  swift  to  be  braved. 
It  is  easy  to  fancy,  from  the  glimpse  that  one  gets  now 
and  then  of  the  river  in  the  distance,  that  an  extra  toss 
of  indignation  is  given  by  the  swirling  waters  as  they 
sweep  downward  in  sight  of  us  escaping  so  easily  their 


328  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

rage.  This  may  be  only  the  dream  of  a  dreamer.  It 
is  not  a  point  for  argument. 

Now  the  portage  path  has  been  transformed  into  a 
link  of  silver,  and  the  steamer  glides  gently  into  its 
narrow  canal  whose  high  walls  lift  their  granite  sides 
over  our  heads.  A  massive  gate  bars  the  way,  holding 
in  leash  the  mass  of  water  above.  Then  another  gate 
is  closed  below  us,  and  we  are  imprisoned  between  the 
barriers.  Men  spring  to  the  levers  upon  the  platform 
of  the  upper  gate.  The  ponderous  structure  is  seen  to 
move  ;  it  rises  !  The  flood-like  water  everywhere  surges 
through  the  narrow  opening,  increasing  in  volume  as 
the  aperture  grows.  Our  prison  is  being  flooded,  and 
as  the  tide  rises  we  are  lifted  slowly,  until,  somewhat  to 
our  surprise,  we  are  on  a  level  with  the  pond  that  a  few 
minutes  before  had  threatened  to  swallow  us.  The  men 
spring  to  their  task  again  ;  the  gate  swings  ajar,  and  we 
move  proudly  forward  into  another  reception  hall  await- 
ing us,  another  gate  to  confront  us ;  the  one  we  have 
passed  to  be  closed  behind  us  ;  another  filling  of  the 
basin,  and  we  ride  another  step  higher.  In  this  simple, 
yet  majestic  way  we  climb,  lock  by  lock,  the  rapids  of 
La  Chine  ! 

What  is  true  of  these  rifts  applies  to  the  rapids  of 
Split  Rock,  where  we  are  lifted  bodily  eighty-two  feet 
in  three  locks,  of  the  Long  Sault,  and  of  all  inter- 
mediate falls.  It  is  clearly  a  case  of  nature  outwitted 
and  bafifled  by  man. 

From  these  locks  we  enter  the  celebrated  Lake  St. 


Climbing  the  Rapids  329 

Louis,  whose  shores  Champlain  described  as  bordered 
with  woods  of  chestnut,  groves  of  walnut  trees,  and  ex- 
tensive meadows  fringed  with  grape-vines.  Upon  the 
one  hand  we  pass  the  town  of  La  Chine,  founded  by  La 
Salle  soon  after  he  reached  Montreal.  It  was  he,  too, 
who  first  selected  the  site  of  Chicago  as  a  trading  post 
at  the  time  of  his  wanderings  in  the  region  of  the 
Illinois.  Nearly  opposite,  as  the  crow  flies,  on  the 
south  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  stands  the  Indian 
hamlet  of  Caughnawaga,  which  name  means  "  praying 
Indians."  It  was  here  that  many  captives  from  New 
England,  during  the  border  wars,  were  brought  before 
the  red  captors,  who  delivered  them  over  to  the  French 
at  Montreal  or  Quebec.  Among  others  to  be  held  here 
was  the  young  daughter  of  James  Johnson,  whose  narra- 
tive has  been  already  quoted.  Afterwards  she  was  im- 
mured in  a  nunnery  at  Montreal,  from  which  her  father 
found  it  impossible  to  release  her,  so  she  was  never  re- 
united to  her  family.  Her  case  was  not  a  solitary  one, 
as  many  another  bereaved  New  England  family  had  sad 
occasion  to  know. 

The  shores  of  Lake  St.  Louis  are  among  the  beauty 
spots  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  Winding  its  way  reluctantly 
down  from  the  northlands,  the  stately  Ottawa  joins 
hands,  as  it  were,  here  with  the  "river  from  the  west." 
Immediately  our  attention  is  called  to  a  remarkable 
phenomenon  of  two  rivers  running  side  by  side  in  the 
same  channel  without  mingling.  Other  rivers  may 
imitate  this  attempt,   but  nowhere   is  such  a   marked 


SS^  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

distinction  shown  as  here,  in  the  deep  green  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  and  the  pronounced  brown  of  the  Ottawa. 
The  latter,  it  has  been  boldly  asserted,  gets  its  hue  from 
the  great  forests  of  fir  and  hemlock  covering  its  head- 
waters. I  do  not  vouch  for  this.  I  even  doubt  it.  But 
I  do  claim  that  if  a  seven-league  ruler  were  laid  upon 
the  water  of  Lake  St.  Louis  and  the  boundary  marked 
with  a  magic  pencil,  the  line  between  these  rivers 
could  not  be  more  clearly  defined  ;  and  they  run  in 
this  close  companionship  for  nearly  fifty  miles  before 
they  blend  into  the  deep  azure  of  the  Lower  St.  Law- 
rence. Who  can  say  there  is  not  in  this  display  of  jeal- 
ousy a  trait  common  with  humanity,  and  that  the  lordly 
Ottawa  remembers  yet  the  not  very  distant  day  when  it 
and  not  the  Upper  St.  Lawrence  was  the  outlet  of  the 
Great  Lakes  ?  Preposterous  as  it  seems  at  first  thought, 
the  geologists  offer  good  proof  of  the  truth  of  this. 
Furthermore,  they  tell  us  that  before  this  period  the 
waters  of  those  great  inland  seas,  larger  then  than  now, 
found  an  outlet  by  the  Mohawk  valley  and  the  Hudson 
River.  Prior  to  that  period  they  flowed  toward  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico  from  an  outlet  at  the  site  of  Chicago. 
The  next  change,  that  now  seems  inevitable,  is  a  return 
to  this  ancient  route,  when  the  St.  Lawrence  will  be 
robbed  of  its  glory.  But  ere  that  day  dawns  another 
race  may  come  to  shoot  its  rapids,  and  another  tongue 
to  tell  its  history. 

The  next  series  of  steps   in   the   stairways  of   the 
rapids  is  the  Soulanges  Canal,   leading  from  the  foot  of 


Climbing  the  Rapids  331 

Cascade  Rapids  to  Couteau  Landing,  connecting  Lake 
St.  Louis  with  Lake  St.  Francis.  This  is  of  more 
recent  construction  than  the  other  sections,  and  is  one 
of  the  finest  sets  of  locks  in  the  country,  lighted  and 
operated  by  electricity.  Originally  a  canal  on  the  south 
bank,  the  Beauharnois,  overcame  the  difficulty  of  navi- 
gation on  this  portion  of  the  river.  It  was  during  the 
passage  of  the  rapids  here  that  a  division  of  General 
Amherst's  soldiers  was  lost. 

The  steamer  glides  gracefully  out  from  the  last  lock 
upon  the  breathless  bosom  of  Lake  St.  Francis  just  as 
the  setting  sun  touches  with  its  magic  pencil,  tipped 
with  crimson,  silver,  and  gold,  the  perennial  green  of  the 
landscape  and  transparent  azure  of  the  river.  If  Japan 
is  famed  for  its  beautiful  sunrise,  and  there  is  no  scene 
where  the  radiance  of  the  morning  light  is  reflected  with 
greater  glory  than  on  the  highlands  of  the  Nikko  dis- 
trict ;  if  Tibet,  the  "  roof  of  the  world,"  is  the  favourite 
tenting-ground  of  the  great  round  moon's  legions  of 
light,  dancing  with  fantastic  glee  upon  the  ascension  of 
their  queen,  then  the  St,  Lawrence  deserves  especial 
honours  for  the  glory  of  its  sunsets.  Certainly,  nowhere 
are  the  curtains  of  twilight  drawn  with  a  more  delicate 
hand,  and  nowhere  are  the  lights  and  shades  blended 
with  happier  effects.  The  river  lies  bathed  in  silver  and 
silence.  The  broad  green  meadows  repose  under  the 
tremulous  drapery  of  a  June  atmosphere.  The  forest 
on  the  highlands,  its  foliage  made  up  of  a  hundred  hues, 
glorifies    each    quivering   beam   with   its  own   especial 


332  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

charm  ;  and  the  kingly  pine,  that  has  looked  out  upon 
thousands  of  sunsets  like  this,  as  if  dreaming  of  child- 
hood's brighter  days,  suddenly  takes  on  for  a  moment 
a  cheerful  brightness,  and  then  swiftly  fiings  aside  its 
stolen  blush  to  assume  its  native  gloom.  Through  the 
great  mullioned  window  of  the  West  stream  the  lam- 
bent flames  of  evening.  As  if  the  sun  would  linger 
long  over  such  a  fair  scene,  he  opens  again  and  again 
the  eye  that  has  grown  heavy  with  watching,  and  when 
at  last  the  green  upon  the  meadow,  the  purple  upon  the 
forest,  the  umber  upon  the  bank,  and  the  silver  upon 
the  river  have  been  vanquished  by  the  overmastering 
darkness,  we,  who  watch  and  wonder,  half  expect  that 
he  will  re-appear  for  a  farewell  good-night. 

The  next  place  of  importance  on  the  north  bank  is 
the  bustling  town  of  Cornwall,  and  here  are  the  last 
series  of  locks,  six  in  number,  and  the  canal  twelve 
miles  long,  completing  the  grand  ascent  of  the  river, 
which  had  a  total  fall  between  here  and  Montreal  of 
206^  feet.  These  canals  have  a  navigable  depth  of 
fourteen  feet.  The  45th  parallel  here  intersects  the 
St.  Lawrence,  so  the  river  is  no  longer  entirely  Cana- 
dian, the  line  dividing  Canada  from  the  United  States 
crossing  here,  as  well  as  making  the  division  between 
the  two  provinces  of  the  Dominion. 

Nearly  opposite  Cornwall  is  the  interesting  village 
of  St.  Regis,  an  Indian  town.  Amid  its  grove  of  trees 
and  cluster  of  houses  stands  the  church  having  a  bell 
that  possesses  a  peculiar  and  pathetic  interest  to  the 


Climbing  the  Rapids  333 

descendants  of  the  New  England  colonists,  as  well  as 
those  of  Canada.  This  bell,  after  being  captured  from 
the  French  by  an  English  cruiser,  was  taken  to  Salem, 
Massachusetts,  and  thence  to  Deerfield.  Upon  being 
informed  that  their  bell  was  located  here  the  Indians 
rallied  and  went  upon  a  raid  against  the  town.  Sur- 
prising the  inhabitants  they  massacred  nearly  fifty,  and 
took  back  to  Canada  with  them  over  a  hundred  captives, 
and  the  bell,  which  now  hangs  in  the  St.  Regis  church. 

The  boat  comes  to  the  end  of  its  trip  at  Prescott, 
where  the  passengers  going  farther  up  the  river,  as 
nearly  all  are,  must  change  to  one  of  the  more  pala- 
tial steamers  that  ply  between  this  town  and  Toronto. 
These  latter,  on  account  of  their  size,  cannot  pass  the 
locks.  The  first  large  boat  to  attempt  the  passage  of 
the  river  below  here  was  the  Ontario,  built  at  Niagara 
about  1840.  She  proved  to  be  very  speedy,  and  was 
purchased  by  men  at  Montreal  for  a  mail  boat  between 
that  city  and  Quebec.  The  trade  closed,  the  next  thing 
was  to  get  the  boat  down  to  Montreal,  no  craft  any- 
where near  its  size  having  attempted  to  run  the  rapids. 
The  best  pilots  then  on  the  river,  two  Indians  known  as 
"  Old  Jock  "  and  "  Old  Pete,"  were  secured  for  the 
hazardous  undertaking,  the  owners  promising  them  one 
thousand  dollars  each  if  they  accomplished  their  enter- 
prise successfully.  The  manner  in  which  they  made 
this  initial  voyage  is  best  described  by  that  old  veteran 
of  the  Upper  St.  Lawrence,  Captain  Johnston  : 

First,  a  crib  was  made  forty  feet  square,  with  pine  floats  ten 


334  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

feet  apart,  with  stakes  ten  feet  long  driven  in  each  square,  project- 
ing downward.  When  all  was  ready  some  Indians  were  sent  to  the 
foot  of  the  rapids  and  some  were  stationed  in  the  trees  on  the  side 
of  the  rapids.  Several  Indians  towed  the  crib  to  the  head  of  the 
rapids  with  their  canoes  and  let  go  of  it.  Then  every  Indian 
watched  the  course  it  took  as  the  crib  sped  on  its  way  with  the  cur- 
rent of  the  stream.  When  it  reached  the  foot  of  the  rapids  the  crib  was 
turned  over,  and  it  was  found  that  none  of  the  stakes  were  broken. 
That  was  a  positive  indication  that  there  was  water  enough  to  run 
the  Ontario  through.  The  Indians  then  boarded  the  steamer.  Each 
Indian  piloted  the  Ontario  as  far  as  he  had  observed  the  crib's 
course.  The  only  white  man  on  board  was  the  engineer,  who  also, 
I  was  told,  received  one  thousand  dollars.  This  story  I  got  from 
"  Old  Jock,"  who  used  to  pilot  us,  and  who  ran  us  through  the  La 
Chine  Rapids  nine  times  without  mishap. 

In  this  way,  in  1843,  ^^"^  the  first  steamer  taken 
down  the  rapids,  and  a  descendant  of  one  of  these 
pioneer  pilots  now  guides  with  a  trusty  hand  the 
steamer  of  to-day  that  follows  in  the  track  of  the  On- 
tario. The  next  steamers  to  follow  this  course  were  the 
Canada  and  America,  in  1858  or  1859,  according  to  the 
authority  above  quoted.  It  is  said  that  only  one  white 
man  undertook  to  run  the  La  Chine  Rapids  in  those 
early  days,  and  his  name  was  Roebuck. 

Prescott  is  a  stone-built  town,  with  a  great  distillery 
and  brewery  and  two  iron  foundries,  and  a  population 
of  about  four  thousand.  It  was  named  for  General 
Prescott,  and  has  on  the  east  the  bastions  of  Fort  Wel- 
lington, named  for  the  Iron  Duke.  Prescott  is  filled 
with  historic  memories,  and  has  many  places  of  interest 
to  the  historian.  Among  these  is  the  little  church,  said 
to  be  the  oldest  Methodist  church  in  Canada,  where 


=;  X 


5  ffi 


Climbing  the  Rapids  335 

Barbara  Heck,  one  of  the  founders  of  that  faith  in  the 
valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  held  meetings.  In  the  litde 
yard  is  her  grave,  marked  by  a  plain  marble  slab. 
Other  spots  of  interest  are  the  old  blockhouse,  still  in  a 
good  state  of  preservation,  and  filled  with  memories  of 
warlike  days ;  and  the  old  windmill,  which  the  Govern- 
ment has  since  converted  into  a  lighthouse. 

This  ancient  landmark  figured  conspicuously  in  the 
closing  scene  of  what  has  been  somewhat  derisively 
called  '•  the  patriot  war,"  one  of  the  most  foolish  and 
insane  projects  ever  set  on  foot  by  men  burning  for 
notoriety.  The  scheme  seems  to  have  originated  among 
some  fanatics  of  Northern  New  York,  and  had  for  its 
purpose  the  overthrow  of  the  Canadian  Government. 
This  was  during  the  period  mentioned  in  the  descrip- 
tion of  Chateau  de  Ramezay,  and  the  burning  of  the 
Parliament  Buildings  in  Montreal.  In  the  summer  of 
1837,  the  leader  of  the  so-called  "reform  party,"  Wil- 
liam Lyon  McKenzie,  with  General  Van  Rensselaer, 
established  a  station  on  Navy  Island  in  the  Niagara 
River,  having  a  force  of  three  hundred  men.  It  was 
claimed  that  the  Government  committed  wrongs  equal 
to  those  the  British  had  inflicted  upon  the  American 
colonists,  but  the  leaders  of  the  "  patriots "  only  de- 
manded restitution  and  recognition.  Untoward  events, 
however,  were  soon  to  turn  the  tide  of  politics  into 
more  warlike  channels.  A  small  steamer,  called  the 
Caroline,  was  employed  in  taking  passengers  and  freight 
between  the  island  and  Buffalo,  and  this  one  night  was 


33^  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

boarded  by  a  company  of  British  soldiers,  fired,  and 
sent  adrift  over  Niagara  Falls.  This  act  inflamed  the 
"  patriots,"  and  one  William  Johnston,  of  evil  repute, 
became  the  acknowledged  leader.  He  fortified  himself 
upon  an  island  within  the  United  States  line.  His 
daughter  Kate  became  the  trusted  informant  for  John- 
ston and  his  band  of  rebels.  On  the  night  of  May 
30,  1838,  Johnston  and  his  followers,  disguised  as  In- 
dians and  armed  with  muskets  and  bayonets,  boarded 
the  Canadian  steamer.  Sir  Robert  Peel,  while  en  route 
between  Brockville  and  Toronto  with  twenty  passen- 
gers and  a  large  amount  of  money  to  pay  off  the  troops 
in  the  Upper  Province.  The  night  was  dark  and  rainy, 
and  with  the  watchword,  "  Remember  the  Caroline^' 
the  "  patriot "  band  ordered  the  passengers  and  crew 
to  take  to  the  boats,  following  which  they  set  fire  to 
the  steamer  and  left  her  to  her  fate.  The  sunken  hull 
is  still  to  be  seen  where  she  went  down.  Johnston 
then  made  a  personal  declaration  of  war,  and  it  became 
evident  the  Canadian  Government  had  got  to  take  de- 
cisive action  to  check  the  threatened  invasion.  The 
result  of  this  matter  was  the  landing  at  Prescott  of  a 
force  of  the  "patriots,"  under  command  of  one  Von 
Schoultz,  who  had  entered  into  the  struggle  with  ill- 
conceived  idea  of  what  it  meant.  This  company  took 
possession  of  the  old  windmill,  and  were  routed  only 
when  thirty-six  of  the  British  soldiers  and  nineteen  of 
the  rebels  had  been  killed,  besides  many  wounded  on 
both  sides.      Most   of  the   "patriot"  leaders  had   now 


i 


Climbing  the  Rapids  ZZ7 

deserted  the  cause,  and  this  ended  the  outbreak.  Sev- 
eral of  the  Insurgents  were  hanged,  among  them  Von 
Schoultz,  whose  fate  was  a  most  unhappy  one,  as  it  did 
not  appear  that  he  had  really  understood  the  crime 
he  was  committing.  He  left  a  legacy  of  ten  thousand 
dollars  for  the  benefit  of  the  British  famiHes  of  those 
who  had  been  killed.  The  ill-advised  affair  had  even  a 
wider  influence,  as  it  involved  several  prominent  Ameri- 
can politicians  in  the  melee  on  account  of  the  decided 
action  they  took  against  some  of  those  in  New  York 
who  sympathised  with  the  "patriots."  President  Van 
Buren  lost  many  votes  on  account  of  it,  while  General 
Scott  believed  that  he  lost  the  Whig  nomination  for 
the  Presidency  owing  to  the  fact  that  he  had  been  in- 
strumental in  putting  down  the  rebellion. 

During  the  Fenian  insurrection  in  1865-66,  Prescott 
was  again  the  scene  of  warlike  excitement,  when  the 
Fenian  forces  encamped  here  upon  the  eve  of  the  in- 
tended invasion  of  Canada.  Happily  these  and  many 
other  disturbing  scenes  have  passed  into  memory,  and 
the  quiet  old  town  lies  dreaming  of  the  day  when  she 
shall  awaken  to  the  possibilities  nature  has  promised 
her. 


Chapter  XXIV 
The  Gateway  to  the  West 

Mission  of  La  Presentation — Ogdensburg — Brockville — Romance  of  the  Thousand 
Islands — A  Daughter's  Devotion  to  a  Father — Carleton  Island — "  Lost  Chan- 
nel " — Memory  of  a  Bonaparte — Origin  of  the  Feud  between  the  Iroquois 
and  the  Algonquins — Legend  of  the  League  of  the  Five  Nations — Tradition 
of  Hiawatha — Cooper's  "Station  Island" — Gananoque — "The  Place  of  the 
Deer" — A  Poet's  Tribute — Kingston,  the  Limestone  City — Conclusion. 

THE  St.  Lawrence  is  about  a  mile  wide  between 
Prescott  and  the  city  of  Ogdensburg.  The  lat- 
ter place  is  builded  near  the  site  of  the  Onon- 
daga mission,  established  by  the  French  in  1 749,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Oswegatchie^  River.  Its  founder  was  a 
Sulpician,  named  Francis  Picquet,  and,  despite  the  at- 
tack of  Mohawks,  flourished  so  well  that  in  two  years  a 
sawmill  was  erected  here.  It  was  given  the  name  of 
La  Presentation,  and  created  considerable  uneasiness 
among  the  English  already  at  Oswego.  An  Indian 
runner,  appearing  suddenly  at  the  latter  place,  said  : 
"  As  I  came  through  the  forest  I  heard  a  bird  sing,  and 
he  sang  that  a  great  many  Indians  from  his  castle, 
and  many  others  from  the  Five  Nations,  have  gone  to 
Swegage."  This  mission  was  maintained  until  1760. 
The  Indians  and  their  descendants  continued  to  live 

'  Indian  term,  meaning  "  place  where  the  water  flows  around  the  hills." 

338 


The  Gateway  to  the  West  339 

about  here  until  1806,  when  a  part  of  them  went  to  St. 
Regis,  and  the  balance  to  Onondaga  upon  the  demand 
of  the  landowners.  Over  the  door  of  the  State  arsenal 
building  is  a  block  taken  from  a  stone  structure  that 
once  stood  near  the  site  of  the  present  lighthouse, 
which  has  the  following  inscription  : 

"  In  nomine  Dei  Omnipotentis 
Huic  habitationi  initia  dedit 
Frans.  Picquet.      1749." 

While  the  Treaty  of  1783  fixed  the  St.  Lawrence 
River  as  the  boundary  line  between  the  United  States 
and  Canada,  the  English  continued  to  occupy  Oswe- 
gatchie  as  a  trading  station,  "  to  protect  their  interests," 
as  they  claimed.  This  created  great  dissatisfaction  on 
the  part  of  the  Americans,  but  it  was  not  remedied 
until  the  *'  Jay  Treaty  "  stipulated  that  all  English  posts 
in  the  United  States  should  be  abandoned  on  or  before 
June  I,  1796.  Immediately  after,  Mr.  Samuel  Ogden, 
who  had  obtained  a  controlling  interest  here,  com- 
menced to  improve  the  place,  which  has  continued  to 
prosper  ever  since.     It  was  named  in  his  honour. 

So  this  modern  city  stands  upon  the  ruins  of  an 
ancient  town,  whose  inhabitants  mainly  belonged  to 
that  vanished  people  who  were  the  Romans  of  America. 
As  Ogdensburg  is  to-day  a  great  railroad  centre,  where 
two  main  lines  meet,  even  before  the  building  of  La 
Presentation  mission  this  place  was  an  important  posi- 
tion, where  the  old   Indian  trails  of  the  Mohawk  and 


340  The  St  Lawrence  River 

St.  Lawrence  valleys  crossed,  the  course  of  these  being 
closely  followed  by  the  iron  horse  of  modern  travel. 

At  the  foot  of  the  Thousand  Islands,  upon  the 
Canadian  shore,  stands  the  beautiful  city  of  Brockville, 
with  something  like  ten  thousand  inhabitants.  The 
first  settlers  of  this  town  were  United  Empire  Loyal- 
ists, who  came  here  soon  after  the  close  of  the  Ameri- 
can Revolution,  which  left  them  outlaws  in  their  own 
country.  All  through  the  war  of  i8 12-15,  this  town 
was  the  scene  of  exciting  interest,  and  was  captured  by 
an  American  force,  under  command  of  a  Captain  For- 
syth, of  Ogdensburg. 

From  this  fair  city,  with  its  pictured  rock,  speaking 
to  us  in  the  art  of  a  vanished  hand  of  savage  super- 
stition and  reparation,  we  come  to  where  lie 

New  meadows  white,  where  daisies  grow, 
Near  where  St.  Lawrence  whispers  low; 
Near  sylvan  dells,  where  Nature  smiles. 
Earth's  paradise,  the  Thousand  Isles. 

There  is  poetry  in  the  name,  romance  in  all  that 
clusters  about  the  scene  hallowed  with  a  thousand 
historic  memories.  Here  Cooper,  our  own  Scott,  found 
inspiration  for  his  greatest  novel,  and  here  another  of 
their  gift  might  find  material  for  a  series  of  American 
Waverly  novels  whose  interest  would  not  be  less  than 
those  of  Scottish  loch  and  land. 

He  would  find  here  mighty  fortresses  built  by  no  human  hand, 
castles  made  more  secure  by  natural  bulwarks  than  moat  or  barbi- 
can could  make  them,  hidden  by  bays  in  which  a  fleet  might  hide, 
channels  three  hundred  feet  deep  winding  between  wooded  islands 


The  Gateway  to  the  West  341 

and  secure  waterways.  Ellen's  Isle,  made  famous  by  the  Wizard 
of  the  North,  is  reproduced  here  in  a  hundred  forms,  and  Loch 
Katrine  has  scores  of  rivals  at  our  very  door. 

Scarcely  one  of  the  islands  that  dot  the  unruffled 
surface  of  the  lake, 

As  quiet  as  spots  of  sky 
Among  the  evening  clouds, 

does  not  have  its  tradition,  mellowed  by  the  passing 
years,  of  love  and  war,  heroism  and  intrigue,  plot 
and  sacrifice.  No  fairer  example  of  filial  devotion  is 
shown  than  in  the  character  of  brave  Kate  Johnston, 
who  stood  by  her  father  so  loyally  during  his  exile 
while  engaged  in  the  "patriot  war."  "The  Devil's 
Oven,"  the  secluded  isle  where  he  found  concealment 
for  over  a  year,  still  belongs  to  one  of  her  descendants, 
for  she  was  happily  married  when  she  had  succeeded  in 
securing  her  father's  pardon  for  any  misdemeanour  he 
may  have  committed.  He  became  a  lighthouse  keeper, 
while  she  was  loved  and  respected  for  her  devotion  to 
him  through  the  dark  days  of  his  outlawry. 

Carleton  Island  during  the  War  of  the  American 
Revolution  was  the  most  important  post  above  Mont- 
real. This  was  a  refuge  place  for  the  Tories  of  New 
York,  New  Jersey,  and  Pennsylvania.  Here  the  re- 
nowned chief  of  the  Six  Nations,  Thayendanagea,  had 
his  rendezvous.  Many  councils  of  war  were  held,  and 
many  a  bloody  raid  had  its  birthnight  here.  Among 
these  may  be  mentioned  the  heartrending  massacres  of 
Wyoming  and  Cherry  Valleys,  the  Cedars  and  Stony 


342  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Arabia,  while  from  this  island  sallied  forth  the  band  of 
avengers  who  made  their  terrible  midnight  attack  upon 
Deerfield,  Massachusetts,  for  the  rescue  of  the  bell  of 
St.  Regis.  Lying  in  the  course  of  the  old  Indian  trail 
from  the  Long  House  of  the  Iroquois  to  the  waterway 
leading  to  the  vale  of  the  Hurons  and  the  Ottawa 
beyond,  it  was  also  crossed  by  the  canoe-path  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  and  Ontario.  The  early  French  explor- 
ers  named  \t  lie  atix  Chevreuils,  or  "  Isle  of  Roebucks." 
Realising  the  importance  of  its  situation,  it  was  a  favour- 
ite resort  for  both  the  French  and  English  until,  just 
before  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century,  the 
British  erected  upon  the  crest  of  the  bluff  overlooking 
the  American  channel  a  fortress  known  as  Fort  Haldi- 
mand,  and  also  as  Fort  Carleton.  Not  very  many  years 
since,  the  traveller  up  and  down  the  river  could  see  the 
dismantled  chimney.  Now  the  island  has  become  the 
beautiful  resort  of  summer  pleasure-seekers,  and  only 
fragmentary  tales  remain  of  those  thrilling  days  of 
frontier  wars. 

One  of  the  most  romantic  incidents  of  this  portion 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  ths  story  of  the  Lost  Channel, 
which  is  connected  with  the  French  and  Indian  War  of 
1756-63.  Lord  Amherst,  in  command  of  the  English 
troops,  was  e7i  route  from  Oswego  upon  his  expedi- 
tion against  Montreal.  Quebec  had  capitulated,  and 
though  De  Levis,  in  command  of  the  French  troops, 
was  playing  a  bold  hand,  it  was  not  believed  he  could 
hold  out  much  longer.     Murray  was  already  moving  up 


The  Gateway  to  the  West  343 

the  St.  Lawrence  toward  Montreal,  Colonel  Haviland 
was  hammering  at  the  defences  on  the  Richelieu,  and 
with  Amherst's  naval  and  military  force  of  ten  thousand 
strong  victory  seemed  certain.  The  only  French  strong- 
hold between  Oswego  and  Montreal  at  that  time  was 
La  Presentation,  known  to  the  English  as  Fort  Levis. 
This  was  the  same  station  mentioned  in  the  description 
of  early  Ogdensburg. 

As  Lord  Amherst  was  moving  gaily  down  the  Lake 
of  the  Thousand  Islands,  his  fleet  consisting  of  two 
armed  vessels,  the  Mohawk  and  the  Onondaga,  and  a 
number  of  boats,  the  lookout  of  the  latter  ship  dis- 
covered a  bateau  carrying  a  party  of  French  soldiers 
putting  out  from  Deer  Island,  since  renamed  Carleton 
Island.  The  captain  gave  swift  pursuit,  at  the  same 
time  signalling  the  Mohawk  to  follow.  A  lively  race 
ensued,  and  after  going  several  miles,  before  the  Ono7i- 
daga  could  get  within  range  of  the  French  boat,  it  dis- 
appeared down  a  narrow  channel  between  a  large  island 
and  a  group  of  smaller  islands.  Unwilling  to  give  up 
the  chase  the  Onondaga  followed,  and  when  about 
midway  of  the  channel  the  vessel  received  a  whole 
broadside  from  the  wooded  banks  of  the  islands  hem- 
mine  it  in.  It  then  became  evident  that  the  whole 
affair  had  been  planned  to  entrap  the  unwary  English. 
The  decks  of  the  war-ship  were  literally  swept  with  the 
leaden  hail  of  the  concealed  French  and  Indians  ;  but 
the  English  returned  this  fire  so  fast  and  furiously 
that  the  allied  forces  were  completely  routed.      It  now 


344  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

became  necessary  to  find  the  way  out,  and  for  this  pur- 
pose a  boat  was  despatched  to  find  a  passage.  Another 
party,  under  the  command  of  the  coxswain,  named 
Terry,  was  sent  with  a  message  to  Captain  Fordham 
of  the  Mohawk  to  return  to  the  main  channel.  This 
duty  Coxswain  Terry  performed,  but  after  he  left  the 
Mohawk  to  return  to  the  Onondaga  neither  he  nor  his 
crew  were  ever  heard  of.  The  latter  ship  succeeded  in 
finding  her  way  out,  and  waited  a  league  below  until 
the  Mohawk  came  along.  Then  it  was  learned  that 
Terry  and  his  men  were  missing.  Though  they  were 
anxiously  awaited,  and  boats  were  sent  out  to  find  them, 
nothing  was  ever  learned  of  their  fate.  It  was  sup- 
posed they  had  got  bewildered  in  the  intricate  windings 
of  the  waterways  between  the  islands,  and,  unable  to 
find  the  channel  followed  by  the  Onondaga,  had  fallen 
into  the  hands  of  the  enemy.  Whether  that  was  true  or 
not,  the  place  has  been  known  ever  since  as  "  The 
Lost  Channel." 

When  satisfied  that  Coxswain  Terry  and  his  crew 
were  not  to  be  found.  Lord  Amherst  resumed  his 
descent  of  the  river,  stopping  on  his  way  to  capture  La 
Presentation,  the  torch  being  applied  to  the  dismantled 
walls  of  the  fort.  As  the  war-ships  sailed  away,  only 
the  charred  ruins  and  a  solitary  chimney  were  left  to 
mark  the  spot.  The  latter  stood  for  many  years  as  a 
landmark,  giving  to  the  island  upon  which  it  had  been 
erected  the  name  it  still  bears,  "Chimney  Island."  The 
expedition  reached  the  upper  end  of  Montreal  Island, 


The  Gateway  to  the  West  345 

at  La  Chine,  in  safety,  and,  co-operating  with  Murray 
and  Haviland,  effected  an  easy  victory  over  De  Levis 
and  his  depleted  ranks. 

Associated  with  these  charming  waters,  gemmed 
with  their  diamonds  cut  from  fairyland,  is  the  memory 
of  a  Bonaparte,  a  brother  of  the  great  Napoleon.  The 
romantic  story  of  this  exiled  nobleman,  who  desired  to 
be  known  in  this  country  as  Count  de  Survilliers,  and 
his  connection  with  the  history  of  this  region  is  inter- 
esting enough,  but  too  long,  to  be  given  here.  He  was 
afforded  no  greater  pleasure  than  in  skimming  these 
"ribbons  of  water"  in  pursuit  of  his  favourite  pastime, 
fishing,  while  he  was  a  constant  visitor  at  Cape  Vincent, 
where  a  kindred  spirit  had  taken  up  his  abode.  Not 
far  away  is  that  beautiful  lake,  a  favourite  resort  of  his, 
which  still  bears  his  family  name,  and  which,  with  its 
sparkling  surface  and  isles  scattered  with  a  prodigal 
hand  over  its  glassy  surface,  reproduces  in  miniature 
the  grand  archipelago  of  the  "  Lake  of  the  Thousand 
Islands." 

The  list  of  "memory  isles"  might  be  continued 
almost  indefinitely  if  one  desired.  As  this  region  is 
to-day  the  boundary  line  between  two  great  countries, 
so  it  was  for  unnumbered  years  the  border-range  of  two 
of  the  most  powerful  clans  of  the  dusky  brotherhoods 
inhabiting  the  ancient  wilds  of  America.  Upon  the 
north  and  the  east  roamed,  lords  of  forest  and  river,  the 
haughty  Algonquins,  noted  as  the  greatest  hunters  of 
the  land.     To  the  south  of  Manatoana  (the  Thousand 


346  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Islands)  dwelt,  in  the  valleys  of  its  rivers  and  lakes,  the 
Iroquois,  who  lived  by  fishing  and  cultivating  the  soil. 
They  boasted  of  great  fields  of  tasselled  corn  and  large 
apple  orchards,  and  looked  with  disdain  upon  the  ex- 
citement of  the  chase.  If  of  different  tastes  and  habits, 
these  people  of  the  wilds  lived  side  by  side  in  harmony 
for  many  a  changing  season. 

Upon  certain  times  it  had  been  the  practice  for  the 
young  men  of  the  two  families  to  hunt  and  fish  together, 
it  always  being  the  rule  that  whichever  party  should  kill 
the  fewer  of  the  game  animals,  or  spear  the  fewer  fish, 
should  skin  and  dress  the  fruits  of  their  united  efforts. 
Usually  the  Algonquins  were  the  fortunate  ones.  In  fact, 
it  became  looked  upon  as  a  certainty  that  the  Iroquois 
were  to  do  the  "  squaw  "  work,  while  the  others  enjoyed 
the  runninor  to  earth  of  the  noble  ofame.  Thus  the  former 
began  to  decline  a  sport  that  really  did  not  fall  to  their 
lot.  Occasionally  they  would  join  in  the  chase  to  please 
their  neighbours,  and  upon  one  of  the  last  hunts,  when 
the  Algonquins  had  boastfully  declared  that  the  young 
Iroquois  would  have  little  to  do  but  care  for  the  game 
they  brought  down,  the  mighty  hunters  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence valley  went  forth  to  slay  the  unwary  victims  of  the 
wilderness.  But  somehow  now  their  vaunted  skill  failed 
them.  Though  the  woods  ran  thick  with  tempting 
game,  they  followed  their  quest  in  vain  for  three  days. 
Then  the  Iroquois,  elated  over  the  failure  of  their  rivals, 
though  they  had  been  careful  not  to  betray  this  feeling, 
offered   to   try   their   hand.       The   Algonquins    readily 


3    E 


1 


The  Gateway  to  the  West  347 

agreed  to  this,  thinking  no  better  resuk  would  fall  to 
their  lot,  and  that  such  a  failure  would  compensate  for  the 
wounds  upon  their  own  honour.  Their  disappointment 
may  be  imagined  when  the  Iroquois,  looked  upon  as  wo- 
men on  the  hunt,  came  in  with  an  abundance  of  game. 

The  Algonquins  sullenly  held  their  peace,  but,  their 
pride,  sorely  wounded,  they  vowed  among  themselves 
to  have  revenge.  That  night,  while  the  tired  hunters 
slept,  every  one  of  them  was  slain.  The  murderers  de- 
nied their  deed,  and  it  was  a  long  time  before  the 
friends  of  the  dead  learned  the  truth.  Then  they  mildly 
asked  that  justice  should  be  done  the  slayers.  A  coun- 
cil was  called,  but  the  Algonquins  evaded  the  matter  of 
a  settlement,  and  tried  to  satisfy  the  others  with  honeyed 
words.  This  failed  of  its  purpose.  Aroused  to  a  fierce 
pitch  of  indignation,  the  Iroquois  proved  that  they  were 
warriors  as  well  as  "  squaw-men."  By  the  fires  of  their 
prophets,  by  the  honour  of  their  women,  by  the  sign  of  the 
Great  Spirit,  they  swore  they  would  never  rest— they 
nor  their  children,  even  to  the  last  generation — until 
the  last  Algonquin  had  been  swept  from  the  earth. 
This  explains  the  origin  of  that  terrible  feud  which  ex- 
isted between  these  rival  races  at  the  coming  of  the 
white  men,  and  which  continued  to  rage,  drawing  into 
its  toils  the  French  and  the  English,  all  through  the 
long,  dark  years  of  border  warfare.  If  given  as  a  story, 
there  seems  to  be  a  foundation  of  truth  beneath  it. 

In  this  connection  it  may  not  be  out  of  place  to  say 
that  the  origin  of  the  legend  relating  to  the  formation 


348  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

of  the  League  of  the  Iroquois,  so  beautifully  described 
by  Longfellow  in  his  immortal  poem  of  Hiawatha, 
belongs  to  this  realm  of  lakes  and  islands,  though  the 
poet  gives  no  hint  of  this.  It  was  upon  the  calm  blue 
waters  of  the  Lake  of  a  Thousand  Islands  that  the  two 
young  men  of  the  Onondaga  nation  were  gazing,  when 
they  saw,  as  if  in  a  vision,  the  white  canoe  driven  over 
the  water  by  the  strong  arm  of  the  river  god,  who 
proved  to  be,  upon  nearer  approach,  an  old,  but  vener- 
able, man.  With  a  single  oar  he  sped  his  light  canoe 
toward  them,  not  so  much  as  a  murmur  of  the  wind 
breaking  the  silence  as  he  approached,  his  brow  fixed  in 
deep  thought.  He  did  not  seem  to  notice  them  until 
he  had  reached  the  shore,  and,  drawing  up  his  majestic 
form  to  a  great  height,  exclaimed  aloud  that  name 
which  told  them  beyond  doubt  that  he  was  the  deity 
who  reigned  over  the  waters  and  their  inhabitants.  He 
then  invited  them  to  go  with  him  upon  a  voyage  over 
the  river,  showing  them  many  wonderful  sights  they  had 
not  dreamed  of,  and  when  promising  to  clear  the  sedgy 
channels  environing  the  charming  plots  of  land,  he 
warned  them  of  the  approach  of  war,  and  counselled  a 
union  of  nations.  He  even,  through  these  young  men, 
called  a  council  of  the  different  tribes,  and  during  the 
meeting  of  that  assembly  was  formed  the  League  of 
the  Five  Nations,  which  became  so  famous.  His  mis- 
sion accomplished,  Hi-a-wat-ha,  as  he  chose  to  be  known, 
paddled  his  snowy  canoe  out  upon  the  lake,  to  disappear 
as  mysteriously  as  he  had  come. 


The  Gateway  to  the  West  349 

The  admirer  of  Cooper's  interesting  tale  of  The 
Pathjinder,  while  aware  that  the  author  does  not  at- 
tempt to  describe  the  exact  spot,  locates  the  culminating 
scenes  of  his  story  upon  what  he  calls  "  Station  Island." 
According  to  the  historical  facts  that  are  woven  about 
it,  there  is  little  doubt  of  its  being  one  of  the  "  Admir- 
alty Group,"  located  in  the  Canadian  channel  above 
Gananoque.  The  time  was  toward  the  close  of  the 
French  and  Indian  War,  when  the  English  were  sta- 
tioned at  Oswego,  the  French  at  Fort  Frontenac,  now 
Kingston,  and  controlling  the  river.  The  supplies  of 
the  latter  came  up  the  St.  Lawrence  from  Montreal,  and 
it  was  prudent  that  the  English  should  keep  a  sharp 
lookout  for  these  provisioned  bateaux  and  the  arrival 
of  any  troops  that  might  be  sent  into  these  waters.  In 
order  to  carry  out  their  purpose  the  British  actually 
established  places  of  concealment.  This  idea  is  corrob- 
orated by  Mr.  J.  R.  Haddock,  who  says,  in  speaking  of 
the  situation  of  Cooper  s  island  : 

It  is  evident  that  this  very  group  of  islands  (Admiralty  Group) 
would  be  the  one  chosen  for  such  a  hiding  place  for  several  reasons. 
First,  it  was  nearer  Oswego;  second,  the  chances  of  recapture  were 
lessened;  third,  the  opportunity  of  watching  the  approach  of  a  fleet 
of  bateaux  unseen.  If  the  hiding  place  had  been  chosen  in  the 
Lower  or  Naval  Group,  the  chances  of  a  recapture  would  have  been 
materially  increased.  On  "  Station  Island  "  a  lookout  could  be  kept 
on  the  river  below,  so  that  the  French  on  the  mainland  could  be 
watched;  so  that  the  island  itself  could  hardly  be  distinguished 
from  those  by  which  it  was  surrounded.  One  island  in  this  group 
fulfils  the  conditions,  and  there  is  not  another  among  all  the  Thou- 
sand Islands  that  does;  and  hence  the  presumption  that  the  island 
is  here,  and  that  it  borders  on  the  Bostwick  Channel. 


350  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Nearly  opposite  here,  upon  the  Canadian  shore,  is 
the  pretty  town  of  Gananoque,  with  a  population  of  be- 
tween four  and  five  thousand.  It  is  situated  at  the 
mouth  of  a  small  river  by  the  same  name,  which  was  an 
Indian  term  meaning,  it  is  claimed,  "  The  Place  of  the 
Deer."  The  first  settlers  were  loyalists,  who  came  here 
from  the  State  of  Connecticut  at  the  close  of  the  Ameri- 
can Revolution.  One  of  them,  Sir  John  Johnson,  was 
commander  of  an  organisation  known  as  "Johnson's 
Royal  Greens."  He  received  a  grant  for  the  territory 
now  including  the  village  in  conjunction  with  Colonel 
Joel  Stone,  who  became  its  most  enterprising  founder. 
Gananoque  is  now  aptly  styled  the  Birmingham  of 
Canada,  its  water-power  and  commercial  advantages 
fully  entitling  it  to  this  distinction. 

And  now  after  our  round  trip  of  nearly  two  thousand 
miles,  from  Ontario  to  the  ocean  and  back  again,  we 
find  ourselves  approaching  the  place  from  which  we 
started,  "  where  the  lake  and  the  river  meet,"  In  paying 
a  last  look  upon  the  beautiful  scene  we  are  reluctantly 
leaving  the  tender  tribute  of  Cremazie,  the  sweet-voiced 
singer  of  Canada,  comes  to  mind  : 

When  Eve  plucked  death  from  the  tree  of  life,  and  brought 
tears  and  sorrows  upon  the  earth,  Adam  was  driven  out  into  the 
world  to  mourn  with  her,  and  taste  from  the  bitter  spring  that  we 
drink  to-day.  Then  the  angels  on  their  wings  bore  the  silent  Eden 
to  the  eternal  spheres  on  high,  and  placed  it  in  the  heavens;  but  in 
passing  through  space  they  dropped  along  the  way,  to  mark  their 
course,  some  flowers  from  the  Garden  Divine.  These  flowers  of 
changing  hues,  falling  into  the  great  river,  became  the  Thousand 
Isles,  the  paradise  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 


<■      o 


5      S 


i 


The  Gateway  to  the  West  351 

Within  sight  of  this  happy  retreat  at  the  head  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  River,  with  Lake  Ontario  upon  one 
hand  and  the  Great  Cataraqui  or  Rideau  River  upon 
the  other,  stands  Kingston,  connected  to  Ottawa  by 
rail  and  canal ;  to  the  west  by  the  lakes ;  to  the  east 
Montreal,  Quebec,  and  the  ocean,  by  rail  and  river  St. 
Lawrence,  it  is  the  most  happily  located  city  in  Canada. 
While  the  attractions  of  both  Quebec  and  Montreal  are 
not  to  be  forgotten,  this  would  seem  to  combine  the 
favours  of  the  others.  As  a  military  station  it  stands 
next  to  Quebec,  while  its  harbour  is  deep,  commodious, 
and  well  protected. 

The  early  explorers  and  defenders  of  the  valley  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  showed  keen  foresight  in  their  selec- 
tion of  outposts,  and  scarcely  one  played  a  more  import- 
ant part  in  the  border  wars  than  Kingston,  first  known 
in  the  days  of  its  founding  by  La  Salle  as  Cataraqui, 
and  then  as  Fort  Frontenac.  The  last  name  still 
clings  to  the  county,  but  even  the  name  of  the  fort  that 
he  built,  which  was  destroyed  by  the  English  in  i  758, 
to  be  rebuilt  soon  after,  was  renamed  Fort  Henry. 
When  Carleton  Island,  first  selected  as  a  military  sta- 
tion, came  within  the  American  lines,  Kingston  was 
chosen  as  the  stronghold  for  the  English,  and  it  has 
since  gained  the  name  of  the  Sandhurst,  or  the  West 
Point  of  Canada.  But  with  its  Martello  towers  and 
martial  atmosphere  clinging  to  it,  the  Limestone  City  is 
far  more  than  a  military  school  or  a  place  of  defence. 
Upon   the  separation   of  Canada  into   two  provinces, 


352  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

Kingston  became  the  first  capital  of  the  province  of 
Ontario,  or  Upper  Canada,  as  it  was  then  called.  Dur- 
ing the  period  of  the  United  Provinces  of  Upper  and 
Lower  Canada,  1841  to  1844,  the  legislature  met  here. 

Considerable  shipbuilding  has  been  done,  and  it 
has  become  a  great  grain  depot.  At  the  time  of  the 
War  of  181 2,  the  Duke  of  Wellington  advised  the  con- 
struction of  a  route  to  Montreal  independent  of  that 
by  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  outcome  was  the  Rideau 
Canal,  built  at  a  cost  of  nearly  four  million  dollars. 
This  connected  Kingston  to  Ottawa,  but  the  railroad 
some  time  since  relegated  the  canal  to  the  use  of  pleas- 
ure travel.  It  winds  through  one  of  the  most  pictur- 
esque sections  of  the  country. 

This  city  is  also  a  great  educational  centre,  and  its 
colleges  are  of  national  importance.  Among  these  may 
be  mentioned  the  Queen's  University,  School  of  Art, 
Science  Hall,  Royal  Medical  College,  School  of  Gun- 
nery, School  of  Mining,  and  several  others  deserving  of 
notice.  Considerable  manufacturing  is  done  here,  and 
altogether  it  would  appear  as  if  the  city  should  be  larger 
than  it  is,  having  about  twenty  thousand  inhabitants. 

Here  we  bid,  not  adieu,  but  au  revoir,  to  the  noble 
St.  Lawrence,  typical  of  the  wonderful  swing  and  free- 
dom of  nature.  We  see  evidence  of  this  everywhere. 
We  see  it  in  its  vast  volume  of  crystal  water,  now  gather- 
ing its  forces  for  a  plunge  down  some  mighty  incline ; 
anon  smoothing  its  rufHed  bosom  before  one  of  those 
great  mirrors  suggestive  of  the  source  whence  it  has 


The  Gateway  to  the  West  353 

brought  its  offering.  But  whether  driven  by  rapids,  or 
loitering  by  some  sleepy  lake,  it  ever  maintains  its  hold 
upon  the  grand,  the  immense,  the  sublime.  Never  does 
it  degrade  its  dignity,  or  militate  its  majesty.  Winding 
between  the  green  banks  of  some  pastoral  region,  sin- 
ister sentinels  of  rock-walls,  by  city  gates,  or  open  coun- 
try, it  ever  displays  its  cheerful  brightness,  reflects  the 
deep  azure  of  the  northern  sky,  and  sweeps  on  with 
magnificent  mien,  as  if  conscious  of  its  gigantic  work  of 
draining  half  a  continent,  of  carrying  to  the  sea  in  its 
great  drinking-horn  one-third  of  all  the  fresh  water  on 
the  globe. 


Ind 


ex 


Abnaki  Indians,  as  allies  to  the 
French,  159;  settled  at  St. 
Francis,  271 

Ailleboust,  Sieur  d',  as  governor,  119 

Algonquin  Indians,  as  allies  of 
Champlain,  62  sqq.;  settled  at  Sil- 
lery,  98;  with  Daulac,  126  sqq.; 
settled  at  St.  Regis,  271;  origin 
of  feud  with  Iroquois,  346  sqq. 

Allen,  Colonel  Ethan,  in  Montreal, 

314 

American  Commissioners,  1775,  in 
Montreal,  315 

American  invasion  of  Canada,  200 
sqq.,   206  sqq. 

Amherst,  Lord,  move  against  Mon- 
treal, 341  sqq. 

Ansc  dti  F onion,  gully  of,  182; 
Wolfe's  ascent  of,  184  sqq.;  not 
difficult  of  ascent,  261 ;  plan  sug- 
gested by  Murray,  320 

Anticosti  Island,  20 

Arnold,  Benedict,  200;  expedition 
to  Quebec,  200  sqq.;  disappoint- 
ed in  Canadian  peasants,  202; 
in  command  of  American  forces 
in  Canada,  205;  how  near  he 
came  to  gaining  a  victory  at 
Quebec,  261;  hardships  of  the 
"terrible  carrying-place,"  287 

Ashuapmouchouan  River,  221 

Asiatic  cholera  in  the  St.  Lawrence 
valley,  210 

Atlas,  lirst,  of  Western  Hemisphere, 

15 
Aubert,  Thomas,  15 
Aux  Braves,  262 


B 


Baie  St.  Paul,  232 

Bateaux,  Father,  99 

Battle     of     the     Plains,     186  sqq.; 

second    "battle  of  the   Plains," 

193  sqq. 


Beaujeu,  Daniel  Marie  de,  319 
Beaumanoir,  ruins  of,  254;  Chateau 

of,  255  sqq.;  legend  of,  257  sqq.; 

to-day,  259 
Beauport,  village  of,  246  sqq.,  253 
Bdcancourt,  mission  of,  98 
Berthier,  291 
Bic,  31 

Bienville,  Jean  Baptiste  de,  319 
Bigot,    Fran9ois,    character,     178; 

companions  of,   255;    revelry  at 

Beaumanoir,     255;     against    M. 

Phillibert,  265 
Birds  of  Canada,  290  sqq. 
Bonaparte,    the    name    associated 

with   the   Upper   St.    Lawrence, 

345 
Bona  Ventura  Island,  28 
Bougainville,  General  de,  177 
Bourlamaque,  General  de,  177 
Brant,  leader  of  the  Mohawks,  69; 

settled  in  Canada,  206 
Breadth  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River, 

4 
Brebeuf ,  Jean  de,  arrives  in  Quebec, 

83;    goes  to  Huron  country,  84; 

masters  Indian  tongue,  105;   his 

farewell,    273;    a  martyr  to  his 

cause,  321 
Brcf  Recit,  ij 

Breton,  first  French  name,  26 
British  American  Land  Company, 

289  sqq.,  294 
British   treatment   of  the   Indians, 

68  sqq. 
Brockville,  8,  340 
Brown,    William,    founder    of    the 

first    printing   office   in   Canada, 

92  sqq.;    one  of  the  founders  of 

the  first  newspapers,  93 
Bushrangers,  162 


G 


Cadieux,  his  fight  against  the  In- 
dians, 169;  Lament  de  Cadieux, 
170 


355 


356 


Index 


Caen,  Emeric  de,  occupancy  of 
Quebec,  82 

Canada,  name  of,  40;  geographical 
names  of,  40,  272 

Canadian  line,  332 

Cap  aux  Corbeaux,  59,  227 

Cape  Chat,  31 

Cape  Cod,  visited  by  De  Monts,  57 

Cape  Diamond,  249 

Cape  Gasp^,  20 

Cap  Est,  219 

Cap  Quest,  219 

Cap  Rouge,  43,  47;  Wolfe's  vessels 
anchored  off,  183 

Carleton,  Sir  Guy,  in  command  of 
English  forces  at  Quebec,  201; 
profited  by  mistake  of  Montcalm, 
202  sqq.;  victorious,  205;  Eng- 
lish commander,  320 

Carleton  Island,  scene  of  many 
councils  of  war,  341  sqq. 

Carroll,  Charles,  of  CarroUton,  in 
Montreal,  315,  321 

Cartier,  Jacques,  the  Pathfinder, 
16;  first  voyage,  19;  course,  19 
sqq.;  second  voyage,  20  sqq.; 
visits  Hochelaga,  34  sqq.;  his 
"white  winter"  at  Quebec,  37 
sqq.;  capture  of  Donnacona,  the 
Indian  chief,  39;  result  of  ex- 
plorations, 39;  maps  and  publi- 
cations, 41 ;  third  voyage,  42  sqq.; 
last  days,  49;  offered  mass  first 
time  in  Canada,  231  sqq.;  in  his 
wake  to-day,  290  sqq.;  landing- 
place  at  Hochelaga  now  marked, 
310;   pen  portrait  of,  263 

Castin,  Baron  de,  257;  his  daugh- 
ter, 257 

Cataraqui,  fort  of,  142 

Cathay,  passage  to,  21 

Catholicism  in  Europe,  18;  results 
there  led  to  discoveries  in  Amer- 
ica, 19 

Catholics  in  Canada,  279  sqq.  See 
missions  and  missionaries 

Caughnawaga,  Indian  town,  329 

Chaleur,  Bay  of,  19 

Chambly,  Jacques  de,  Captain,  299 ; 
fort  of,  296  sqq. 

Champlain,  Samuel  de,  52;  first 
voyage  up  the  St.  Lawrence,  54; 
his  narrative,  55;  in  Acadia,  56; 
explores  New  England  coast,  57; 
carried  first  colonists  to  Canada, 
59;  his  second  voyage  up  the 
"great  river,"  59;  anchors  in 
harbour  of  Quebec,  60 ;  founds  the 


town,  61;  plot  to  murder  him, 
62 ;  allies  himself  with  the  St. 
Lawrence  Indians,  62 ;  raid 
against  the  Iroquois,  63  sqq.; 
discovers  the  lake  that  bears  his 
name,  65;  encounters  the  Mo- 
hawks, 67;  returns  in  triumph, 
68;  marries,  70;  his  raid  against 
the  Onondagas,  7 1 ;  efforts  for 
the  common  people,  73;  given 
command  of  the  king's  battle- 
ships, 78;  in  full  power,  83; 
fails  to  receive  sufficient  aid 
from  France,  83  sqq.;  saves  the 
honour  of  New  France,  80 ;  flag  of, 
80  sqq.;  death,  85;  character, 
85  sqq.;  sepulture,  86;  felled  the 
first  tree,  250;  pen  portrait  of, 
26;j;  monument,  264;  first  house 
built  by  him,  266;  fort  at  Three 
Rivers,  272  sqq.;  trading  post  at 
Montreal,  310 

Champlain,  Lake,  scenery  of,  65 
sqq.;  main  war-trail  to  Canada, 
296;    "Grand  Pass,"  297 

Champlain,  Madame  de,  imbued 
with  religious  zeal,  108;  Helen's 
Isle,  in  her  honor,  303 

Chansons  de  voyage,  167  sqq. 

Charlesbourg,  254  sqq. 

Chase,  Samuel,  member  of  American 
Commission,  315 

Chateau  of  Beaumanoir,  255  sqq.; 
legend  of,  257  sqq.;  its  ruins  of 
to-day,  254,  259 

Chateau  de  Ramezay,  311  sqq. 

Chateau  Frontenac,  264 

Chateau  le  Grande,  legend  of,  235 
sqq. 

Chateau  St.  Louis,  263  sqq. 

Chaudiere  River,  286  sqq.;  valley 
of,  287;   falls  of,  287  sqq. 

Chauvin,  Pierre,  associate  of  Cham- 
plain, 51;  plants  a  colony  at 
Tadousac,  53;  pioneer  of  Catho- 
licism in  Canada,  214 

Chicoutimi,  town  of,  2 ig  sqq.; 
River,  220 

Christmas-tide,  282;  legend,  282 
sqq. 

Clayton,  7 

Closse,  Lambert,  307 

Colbert,  chosen  comptroller,  137 

College,  first,  in  Canada,  105 

Colonists  of  Canada,  272  sqq. 

Columbus,  discoverer  of  America, 
17  sqq. 

"Company  of  Canada,"  210 


Index 


357 


Conquest  of  Canada,  outcome  of, 
197  sqq. 

Cornwall,  332 

Cornwallis,  Marquis,  English  gen- 
eral, 320 

Cooper,  J.  Fenimore,  scene  of 
Pathfinder  laid  in  Thousand  Is- 
lands, 340  sqq.;  "Station  Is- 
land," 349 

Courcelles,  Sieur  de,  137  sqq. 

Coureur  du  bois,  an  unprofitable 
element,  88;  trade  ruined,  102; 
menace  to  society,  139;  in 
"winter  raids,"  154;  at  close 
range,  162;  personal  appearance, 
163;   object  of,  164 

Crane's  Island,  romance  of,  235  sqq. 

Cree  Indians,  24 

Cremazie,  quotation  from,  des- 
criptive of  the  Thousand  Islands, 

350 
Crown  Point,  where  Cham  plain  en- 
countered    the     Mohawks,     67; 
building  of  fort,    176;    fort   of, 
296  sqq. 

D 

Daniel,  Father,  105 

Daulac,  Adam,  heroism  of,  123  sqq.; 
his  fate,  134;  figure  in  bas-re- 
liefs of  Maisonneuve  monument, 

307 
Dauversiere,  treachery  of,  121 
Demons,    Isle    of,    45;     legend    of 

marooned  lovers,  46  sqq. 
Denonville,    Marquis   de,    succeeds 

to  governorship  of  Canada,  149; 

his  infamous  course,  150;   builds 

fort   at   Niagara,    151;    recalled, 

153 

Devil  and  the  Wind,  a  story,  306 

Dollard.     See  Daulac 

Dongan,  Colonel,  Governor  of  New 
York,  148;  scheme  to  catch  St. 
Lawrence  trade,  149 

Donnacona,  chief  of  Indians  at 
Quebec,  greeting  to  Cartier,  31 
sqq.;  friendly  to  t^ie  new-comers, 
35;  kindness  to  Cartier  during 
the  "white  winter,"  37;  taken 
captive  by  Cartier,  38  sqq.;  fate, 
43 ;  spot  where  he  first  met  the 
St.  Malo  navigator,  250 

Downie,  Admiral,  killed  in  battle 
of  Lake  Champlain,  209 

Duchesnau,  Marquis,  second  In- 
tendant,  142 

Dufferin  Terrace,  260 


Du   Plessis,    Pacifique,   founder  of 

Three  Rivers,  272 
Dupuy,    Paul,    hero   of    Onondaga 

Mission,  121 
Duquen,  Pere,  at  Tadousac,  214 
Durell,   Admiral,   squadron  at  lie 

aux  Coudres,  229 


Earthquakes,  228  sqq. 
Eastern  Townships,  2 8g  sqq.,    294 
Education,  suppression  of,  90 
English  force  in  Montreal,  in  1775, 

315. 
Eternity,  Bay,  223;  Cape,  223 


Fairs,  90 

Farmhouses,  early,  278  sqq. 

Fenian  insurrection,  337 

Fishing  neglected,  88 

Fitzgerald's  love  romance,  252  sqq. 

Five  Nations,  Champlain's  raid 
against,  62  sqq.;  dominion  of, 
68;  early  condition,  69  sqq.,  105; 
armistice  between  them  and  the 
English,  119;  humbled  by  Fron- 
tenac,  160;  origin  of  feud  with 
Algonquins,  346  sqq.  See  In- 
dians 

Flag  of  Champlain,  80  sqq. 

Fleur-de-lis,  the  standard  of  France, 
81  sqq.;  succeeded  by  the  tri- 
colour, 82 

Floods  of  St.  Lawrence  River,  5 

Flowers  of  conquest,  255  sqq. 

Fort  CreveccBur ,  146 

Fort  Frontenac,  179,  352 

Fort  Haldimand,  342 

Fort  Niagara,  built  by  Denonville, 

France's    ingratitude    to    Canada, 

175  ^W-     ^. 

Francis  the  First,  18 

Franklin,  Benjamin,  AmericanCom- 
missioner,  315 

French  treatment  of  the  Indians, 
68  sqq. 

Frontenac,  Count  Louis  de  Baude, 
de,  16;  his  character,  i7,gsqq.;  ap- 
pointed Governor  of  Canada, 
140;  encourages  exploration,  141 ; 
establishes  fort  at  Cataraqui,  141 
sqq.;  patron  of  La  Salle,  144; 
quarrels  with  the  Intendant, 
148;  gets  into  trouble  with 
Jesuits,    148;    succeeded  by   La 


158 


Index 


Frontenac — Coniinued 

Barre,  148;  affairs  become  worse 
after  his  recall,  1^0  sqq.;  re- 
stored, 153;  "winter  raids,"  154; 
rallies  to  meet  Phips,  156;  defies 
the  New  Englander,  157;  per- 
sonal appearance,  157;  rise  in 
fortune  following  defeat  of  Phips, 
158;  invades  region  of  Hudson 
Bay,  159;  last  blow  against  the 
Iroquois,  159  sqq.;  his  death, 
160  sqq.;  portrait  in  Chateau  St. 
Louis,  263 

Fur-trade,  beginning  of,  51;  mono- 
poly of,  58;  makes  more  trouble, 
62;  condition  of,  1635,  83  ^qff?.; 
made  over  to  the  people,  87;  re- 
sult, 88;  traffic  in  beaver,  89; 
becomes  prosperous,  159;  evils 
of,  162  ;  increase  of,  174  sqq.,  314  ; 
uncertain  rights,  215  sqq. 

G 

Gananoque,  350 

Gaspe,  compared  to  Tadousac,  212 

Gaspe  Bay,  27 

George,  Lake,  296  sqq. 

Glooscap,  27 

Gouffre,  223  sqq. 

"Grand  Pass,"  297,  299 

Grand  Trunk  Railway,  303 

Grant,  William,  bought  Chateau  de 

Ramezay,  314 
Great  Lakes,  missions  of,  125  sqq.; 

loss  of,  147 
Gresolon,  Daniel  de,  311 
Griffin,  first  vessel  .on  Lake  Erie, 

145  sqq.;  loss  of,  147 

H 

Habitans,  143,  228,  275  sqq.,  282 
sqq.  _      ^ 

Haddock,  J.  R.,  description  of 
"Station  Island,"  349 

Ha  Ha  Bay,  219 

Harvest  festival,  280  sqq. 

Hebert,  Louis,  first  householder  in 
Canada,  73;  gardens  of,  82; 
well-doing  of,  85  sqq. 

Heck,  Barbara,  founder  of  Method- 
ism in  Canada,  335 

Helen's  Isle,  303 

Hennepin,  explores  upper  Missis- 
sippi, 136,  142 

"Heroic  Period,"  136 

Hiawatha,  legend  of,  348 

Hochelaga,  34  sqq.,  300  sqq. 


Hochelaga  River,  40 

"Holy  Wars  of  Montreal,"  122 

Homesteads,  z-jS  sqq.,  286 

Hudson  Bay  Company,  expiration 
of  lease  and  result  to  Canada, 
216 

Huguenots  expelled,  83 

"Hundred  Associates,  formed  by 
Richelieu,  76  sqq.;  resume  con- 
trol of  affairs,  82 ;  throw  up 
charter,  137 

"Hungry  year,"  205  sqq. 

Huron  mission,  loi 


I 


Iberville,  Sieur  d',  159,  319 

lie  aux  Chevreuils,  342 

lie  aux  Coudres,  229;  first  mass,  23 1 ; 

scenery,  231 
He  de  Grosse,  235 
Indian  name  for  Thousand  Islands, 

6;   name  of  St.  Lawrence,  40 
Indian  schools  at  Quebec,  105 
Indians  of  Canada,  35  sqq.;  treat- 
ment   by    the    French,   68    sqq.; 
methods  of  warfare,  7 1 ;  at  Que- 
bec, 82 ;  fealty  to  the  French,  155 
Indian  trails,  old,  282;    "roads  of 

iron,"  325 
Indian  tribes: 

Abnakis,  break  their  pledge, 
154  5qg.,'  duplicate  the  horrors 
of  the  Iroquois,  159;  settle  at 
St.  Francis,  271 
Algonquins,  join  the  Hurons  in 
Champlain's  first  raid  against 
the  Iroquois,  63  sqq.;  lodg- 
ment on  the  Ottawa,  126; 
with  Daulac,  127  sqq.;  brav- 
ery in  fight,  134;  settle  near 
Three  Rivers,  St.  Francis, 
Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains, 
271 ;  legend  of,  345  sqq.;  origin 
of  feud  against  the  Five  Na- 
tions, 346  sqq. 
Hurons,  inhabitants  of  Hoche- 
laga, 35;  secure  Champlain  as 
an  ally  against  the  Iroquois, 
63 ;  feud  between  them  and 
the  Five  Nations,  64;  allies  of 
Daulac,  127  sqq.;  the  faithful 
chief,  133  sqq.;  Kandironk 
proves  himself  equal  to  Den- 
onville  in  cunning,  152;  claim 
to  lands,  270;  death  of  chief. 
306 


Index 


359 


Indian  tribes — Continued 

Iroquois,  feud  between  them  and 
the  Algonquins,  64;  sue  for 
peace,  102;  resolve  to  clear 
Canada  of  French,  114;  in- 
crease of  bitterness,  120,  122; 
fight  against  Daulac  and  his 
band,  123  sqq.;  raid  on  La 
Chine,  152;  greater  bitterness, 
159;  sue  for  peace  again,  160; 
fate  of  four  warriors  in  Mon- 
treal, 309  sqq.;  agriculturists, 
346;    origin  of  feud,   ^46  sqq. 

Koksoaks,  leading  trait,  24 

Little  Whale  River,  remarkable 
boatmen,  23 

Mohawks,  defeated  in  battle  by 
Champlain,  67;  raided  by  the 
French  under  Courcelles  and 
De  Tracy,  138;  re-open  hos- 
tilities, 148  sqq.;  massacre  at 
La  Chine,  152;  become  Cana- 
dian citizens,  206;  their  trail 
into  the  St.  Lawrence  valley, 
339  sqq._ 

Montagnais,  at  Sillery,  99;  of 
to-day,  213;  mission  closed, 
.225  sqq. 

Nipissings,  settle  at  Lake  of  Two 
Mountains,  271 

Oneidas,  flee  before  Frontenac, 
159  sqq. 

Onondagas,  repulse  Champlain 
and  his  dusky  allies,  7 1 ;  town 
of,  71;  methods  of  warfare, 
72;  mission  of,  338 

Ottawas,  first  to  trade  with  the 
French,  100;  their  domains 
the  Thessaly  of  old  Canada, 
100  sqq. 

Senecas,   one  of  their  chiefs  in 

command  against  Daulac,  129; 

routed     by    Denonville,      150 

sqq. 

Inhabitants    of    Canada,     2^4  sqq. 

See  Habitans,  Noblesse,  Colonists, 

Loyalists,    Social    life.     Harvest 

festival,  and  Indians 
"Iroquois  river  gate,"  298  sqq. 
Isle  of   Orleans,   scene  of  Wolfe's 

disembarkation,  181;    known  as 

"Wizard's  Isle,"  240,  253 


"Jay  Treaty,"  339 
Jesuit   Relations,    106;    quotations 
from,  324  sqq. 


Jesuits,  aims  of,  83 ;  encouraged  to 
carry  gospel  west,  84;  missions 
established,  95  sqq.;  oppose  Fron- 
tenac, 148;  martial  spirit  of ,  175 

Jogues,  Pere  Isaac,  experiences  of, 
118;  martyr,  321 

Johnson,  James,  extract  from  his 
journal,  297;  captivity  of  his 
daughter,  329 

Johnston,  Captain,  account  of  first 
running  the  rapids,  ;i^^  sqq. 

Johnston,  Kate,  heroine  of  the 
"patriot  war,"  336 

Johnston,  William,  leader  of  rebels 
during  "patriot  war,"  ^^6  sqq. 

Joliet,  Sieur,  at  Beaumanoir,  256; 
discovers  Mississippi  River,  320 

K 

Kalm,  Swedish  botanist,  writes  of 
Canadian  traits,  91 

Kandironk,  "the  Rat,"  "kills  the 
peace,"  152;  death  of,  306 

Kertk,  Sir  David,  conquest  of 
Canada,  78  sqq. 

Kingston,  6,  142;  the  capital,  316, 
351  sqq.;  Sandhurst  of  Canada, 
351;  Martello  towers,  351;  ship- 
building, 352;  education,  352; 
manufacturing,  352;  gateway  to 
the  west,  352 

Kirke.     See  Kertk 


L'Acadie,  54 

La  Barre,  Governor,  succeeds  Fron- 
tenac, 148;  failure  of,  149;  suc- 
ceeded by  Denonville,  149 

La  Chine,  rapids  of,  11;  estate  of 
La  Salle,  139;  massacre  of,  152; 
canal,  323  sqq.;  obstacles  of 
early  travel  here,  323;  descrip- 
tion of  hardships  by  a  Jesuit, 
224  sqq.;  portages,  325;  build- 
ing of  canal,  327;  climbing  the 
rapids,  328;  town  of,  329 

Lake  of  the  Thousand  Islands,  345 ; 
legend  of,  346 

Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains,  309 

Lalement,  Gabriel,  martyr,  32 ;  per- 
formed last  services  at  Cham- 
plain's  funeral,  86;  great  efforts, 

97 
La  Mothe,  founder  of  Detroit,  3 1 1 

La  Prairie,  portage  of,  296 
La    Presentation,    mission   of,   338 
sqq.,   343  sqq. 


;6o 


.  Index 


La  Salle,  Chevalier  de,  the  ex- 
plorer, 136,  139,  141  sqq.;  re- 
builds Fort  Frontenac,  144; 
builds  first  vessel  on  Lake  Erie, 
145;  checkered  fortunes,  145  sqq.; 
fate,  148;  character,  148;  at 
Beaumanoir  under  Talon,  256; 
portrait  in  gallery  at  Chateau  St. 
Louis,  263;  debt  of  New  France 
to  him,  264;  in  Montreal,  310; 
old  house  on  Lower  La  Chine 
road,  310 

Lauretian  Mountains,  241;  oldest 
in  the  world,  252 

Laval,  Frangois  de,  first  bishop, 
136;  restored  to  the  episcopate, 
142;  combines  with  the  Jesuits 
against  Frontenac,  148;  portrait 
in  Chateau  St.  Louis  gallery,  264; 
proposed  monument  to  his  mem- 
ory, 264;  University  of,  265; 
sepulture  of,  266;  portrait  now 
in  gallery  at  Chateau  de  Rame- 
zay,  320 

Le  Chien  d'  Or,  264  sqq. 

Le  Jeune,  Pere,  arrives  in  Quebec, 
82;  at  Three  Rivers,  84;  portrait 
in  gallery  at  Chateau  de  Rame- 
zay,  320 

Les  Eboulements,  231 

Levis,  Marquis  de,   177,   196,  269, 

303.  319. 
L' Incarnation,  Mane  de,  108 
Little  Whale  River  Indians,  23 
Long  Sault  rapids,  9 
Longueuil  mansion,  311 
Lost  Channel,  story  of,  342  sqq. 
Louisbourg,  captured  by  the  Eng- 
lish, 1745,  176 
Louis  the  Great,  137,  264 
Lower   St.    Lawrence,    scenery   of, 

21,    24,    25,    30,    31;     political 

situation  in  1828,  210 
Lower    Town,     Quebec,     249  sqq.; 

picture    of,    253;     market,     265 

sqq. 
Loyalists  in  Canada,  69,   199,  294 

sqq. 
Lundy's  Lane,  battle  of,  208 


M 


Magdalene  Islands,  19 

Maids  and  matrons  of  New  France, 
107 

Maisonneuve,  Paul  Chomedy  de, 
missionary  settlement  at  Mon- 
treal founded  by,  100;  worthy  to 


wear  the  mantle  of  Champlain, 
no,  112;  prudence  and  heroism 
of,  11$  sqq.;  portrait  of,  115; 
statue  of,   307  sqq. 

Manatoana,  Indian  name  for  the 
Thousand  Islands,  345  sqq. 

Mance,  Mademoiselle,  no;  cares 
for  the  wounded,  121;  returns  to 
France,  122 

Marguerie,  Franfois,  the  Regulus 
of  Canada,  in 

Marquette,  Father  Jacques,  founds 
first  mission  in  Michigan,  Sault 
Ste.  Marie,  136;  death  of,  136; 
visits  to  Beaumanoir  under 
Talon,  256;  discovered,  with 
Joliet,  the  Mississippi,  320 

Massacre  of  La  Chine  by  the  Iro- 
quois, 152 

Massacres  of  Cedars,  Cherry  Val- 
ley, Stony  Arabia,  and  Wyo- 
ming planned  at  Carleton  Island, 
341  sqq. 

McDonough's  victory  on  Lake 
Champlain,  208  sqq. 

Memphremagog,  Lake,  296 

Mesplet,  Fleury,  first  printer  in 
Montreal,  316 

Methodist  church,  first,  in  Canada, 
334  sqq. 

Metis,  31 

Missions,  rivalry  with  trade,  74; 
story  of,  95  sqq.;  of  Montreal  100, 
107;  need  of  money,  122;  of 
Sault  Ste.  Marie,  136;  of  Mon- 
tagnais,  225;  of  Martyrs,  321;  of 
La  Presentation,  338  sqq. 

Mistassini,  Lake,  221 

Mohawks,  defeated  by  Champlain, 
67;  at  head  of  Five  Nations,  68. 
See  Indians 

Molson,  John,  projector  of  first 
steamboat,  304 

Montcalm,  Marquis  de,  one  of  the 
great  trio  of  New  France,  161; 
in  command  of  the  French  army, 
177;  adverse  circumstances,  178; 
victorious  at  Ticonderoga  and 
Fort  William  Henry,  179;  troops 
of,  180;  last  message,  before 
battle  of  the  Plains,  182;  in- 
formed of  Wolfe's  attack,  187 
sqq.;  death  of,  189  sqq.;  sepul- 
ture, 190;  his  family,  igo  sqq  ; 
his  prediction,  199;  his  monu- 
ment, 260;  passage  up  the 
Richelieu  River,  299;  portrait  at 
Chateau  de  Ramezay,  320 


Index 


361 


Montgomery,  General,  in  command 
of  the  American  army,  201; 
hastens  to  Arnold's  assistance 
before  Quebec,  201;  plan  of  at- 
tack on  Quebec,  202;  repulse 
and  death,  203  sqq.;  sepulture, 
204;  tablet  to  his  memory,  204; 
path,  250;  passage  down  the 
Richelieu  River,  299;  capture 
of  Montreal,  315 
Montmagny,  M.  de,  succeeds  Cham- 
plain,  87;  his  work,  109;  op- 
poses settlement  of  Montreal, 
no 
Montmorenci,  M.  de  Laval  de,  265 
Montmorency  Falls,  247,  254 
Mont  Royale.  See  Mount  Royal 
Montreal,  glimpse  of,  1 1 ;  begin- 
ning of,  no;  site  of  Ville-Marie 
dedicated,  112;  arrival  of  Mai- 
sonneuve,  112  sqq.;  a  prison  pen, 
114;  attack  upon  the  little  band 
under  Maisonneuve  by  the  Iro- 
quois, 116  sqq.;  days  of  anxiety, 
120  sqq.;  appeal  for  aid  from 
France,  122;  "Holy  Wars  of 
Montreal,"  122;  threatened  by 
the  Iroquois,  122;  Daulac  forms 
his  band,  123;  defence  of  the 
brave  men,  124  sqq.;  La  Salle 
comes  to  Montreal,  139;  Iro- 
quois come  here  to  treat  with 
Frontenac,  148;  militia  of  New 
York  moves  against  Montreal, 
155;  Frontenac  here  receives 
word  of  Colonel  Winthrop's  raid 
on  La  Prairie,  156;  news  of 
Phips's  expedition  reaches  here, 
157;  Frontenac  hastens  to  Que- 
bec, 156;  rejoicing  over  the 
escape  from  Phips,  158;  voy- 
ageurs  from  Montreal,  171;  popu- 
lation of,  1758,  177;  surrender 
of  the  English,  1760,  196  sqq.; 
during  invasion  of  Americans 
in  1775-6,  201;  magnet  of  popu- 
lation, 273;  oldest  town  on  the 
St.  Lawrence,  300;  arrival  of 
Champlain,  300  sqq.;  Mount 
Royal,  301;  the  "white  city," 
301;  scenery  of,  302;  Victoria 
Bridge,  302;  environments  of, 
303;  built  on  terraces,  304; 
Notre  Dame,  304;  first  church, 
305;  old  R^collet  Gate,  306; 
squares  and  parks,  307;  statue 
of  Maisonneuve,  307;  Daulac, 
307     sqq.;      view    from     Mount 


Royal,  308  sqq.;  Cartier  Square, 
309;  fate  of  four  Iroquois  war- 
riors, 309  sqq.;  Place  Royale,  310; 
site  of  La  Salle's  house,  310;  De 
Gr^solon's  house,  site  of ,  3 1 1 ;  La 
Mothe,  tablet,  311;  seigniory  of 
Sieur  de  Verandrye,  311;  Bonse- 
cours  Market,  311;  Chateau  de 
R.amezay,  311;  its  builder,  312; 
his  wife,  312 ;  glory  of  the  times, 
313;  death  of  De  Ramezay,  314; 
William  Grant  buys  chateau, 
314;  American  Commissioners 
meet  here,  315;  first  newspaper 
in  city  founded,  316;  Numis- 
matic and  Antiquarian  Society 
get  possession  of  Chateau  de 
Ramezay,  317;  memoirs  of  the 
chateau,  ^18  sqq.;  library,  319; 
portrait  gallery,  ^ig  sqq.;  popu- 
lation of  city,  321;  metropolis, 
322.     See  Mount  Royal 

Monts,  Sieur  de,  his  character,  51 
sqq.;  first  voyage,  55;  colony, 
56;  exploration  of  New  England 
coast,  57  sqq.;  gets  control  of 
fur-trade,  58;  charges  against 
him,  58;   clears  his  name,  59 

Monument  "To  the  Brave,"  262 

Moore,  Thomas,  boating  song,  252 

Mount  Brome,  295 

Mount  Hermon,  262 

Mount  Orford,  295 

Mount  Royal,  glimpse  of,  11;  Car- 
tier's  first  visit,  36;  Champlain's 
first  visit,  54;  peerless  watcher, 
301 

Murray  Bay,  226 

Murray,  General  James,  successor 
of  General  Townshend  at  Quebec, 
193;  appointed  governor,  197; 
his  defeat,  262;  author  of  plan 
of  scaling  Anse  du  Foulon  by 
Wolfe,  320 


N 


New  England  aroused  over  Fron- 
tenac's  raids,  155;  joins  with 
New  York  in  conquest  of  Canada, 
156  sqq. 

New  Englanders  in  Canada,  199. 
See  Loyalists 

New  England  Rangers  at  siege  of 
Quebec,  188  sqq.;   sent  for  relief, 

193 
New  France,  17 
Newspaper,  first,  in  Canada,  92  sqq. 


;62 


Index 


Niagara,  campaign,  in  1812  war, 
208 

Niagara,  fort  of,  176 

Nicollet,  Jean,  85,  105 

Noblesse,  143,  157 

Notre  Dame,  largest  cathedral,  117; 
description  of,  304  sqq.;  mid- 
night mass,  305 

Notre  Dame  de  La  Victoire,  265  sqq. 

Notre  Dame  de  la  Recouvrance,  266 

Noue,  Anne  de  la,  arrives  in  Quebec, 
82 

Novtis  Orbis,  first  atlas,  15 

Numismatic  and  Antiquarian  So- 
ciety, 317 

Nun's  Island,  11 


O 


Ogden,  Samuel,  founder  of  city  of 

Ogdensburg,  339 
Ogdensburg,  city  of,  8,  338 
Old  regime,  298  sqq. 
Onondaga    Indians,   71;     town  of, 

7 1 ;   mission,  site  of  Ogdensburg, 

338. 

Onontio,  Indian  name  for  Fronte- 
nac,  154 

Ontario,  first  steamship  to  run  the 
rapids,  333  sqq. 

Ontario,  Province  of,  scenery,  100 
sqq. 

Orleans,  Isle  of,  32  sqq.,  102 

Oswego,  fort  at,  built  by  English, 
176 

Ottawa,  city  of,  made  capital,  316 

Ottawa  Indians,  100 

Ottawa  River,  100;  joins  the  St. 
Lawrence,  329;  waters  do  not 
mingle,  329  sqq.;  once  the  out- 
let of  the  Great  Lakes,  330 


Parish  Church,  305 
"Patriot  war,"  the,  335  sqq. 
Peasant  population,  198 
Peltrie,     Madame    de    la,    founds 
Ursuline  convent  at  Quebec,  108 
Percd  Rock,  27  sqq.;   legend  of,  28 

"  Period  of  Great  Immigration,"  210 

Petit  Cap,  241 

Phillibert,  M.,  264  sqq. 

Phips's  expedition  against  Quebec, 

155  sqq. 
Pilote,  the  dog  of  Ville-Marie,  115 

sqq. 


Pilots,  lack  of,  89 

Place  d' Arm.es,  117 

Place  Royale,  310 

Plains  of  Abraham,  186  sqq.;  bat- 
tle of,  186  sqq.;  second  battle  of, 
192  sqq.;  view  from,  250  sqq.;  as 
a  public  park,  260  sqq. 

Point  de  Montes,  14 

Point  Levis,  2,i  ',  rival  of  Cape  Dia- 
mond, 251;  country  beyond,  252 
sqq. 

Pointe  aux  Trem-bles,  200,  202 

Political  power,  weakness  of,  177 
sqq. 

Pontgrave,  51  sqq.;  goes  to  Tadou- 
sac,  56;   his  successors,  214 

Population  of  Canada,  in  1633,  84; 
in  1670,  139;  in  1700,  1^4  sqq.; 
in  1756,  177;  in  1791,  210;  in 
183 1,  210;  of  Montreal,  in  1904, 
321 

Porpoises,  catching  of,  229  sqq. 

Portage  de  l' Enfant,  220 

Portages,  the  "terrible  carrying- 
place"  of  Arnold's  winter  march 
to  Canada,  287;  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  ^,24  sqq.;  "roads  of 
iron,"  326;  to-day  "links  of 
silver,"  328 

Poutrincourt,  Baron  de,  55 

Prescott,  334  sqq.;  during  Fenian 
insurrection,  337 

Pres-de-ville,  203 

Prevost,  Sir  George,  head  of  Eng- 
lish invasion  of  the  States,  208; 
retreat,  209 

Prince  Edward's  Island,  19 


Q 


Quebec,  12;  view  from,  by  Oar- 
tier,  33;  original,  61;  early 
colonists,  72  sqq.;  straits  of  colo- 
nists, 78;  captured  by  Kertk,  80; 
terms  of  capitulation,  80;  bright 
years  at,  83;  as  a  shipbuilding 
town,  93 ;  sent  first  steamship 
across  the  Atlantic  from  the 
St.  Lawrence,  94;  shipping  at 
present  time,  94;  growth  un- 
der Montmagny,  100;  increased 
boldness  of  the  Iroquois,  120; 
made  capital,  137;  fire  of  1682, 
153;  second  arrival  of  Frontenac, 
153;  during  Phips's  attack,  156 
sqq.;  population  of,  1756,  177; 
siege  of,  i-jg  sqq.;  battle  of  the 
Plains,     184  sqq.;      sepulture     of 


Index 


Quebec — Continued 

Montcalm,  190  sqq.;  second  bat- 
tle of  the  Plains,  194  sqq.;  Act 
of,  198;  Montgomery's  attack, 
200  sqq.;  origin  of  name,  248; 
fortifications,  249;  Lower  Town, 
249  sqq.;  citadel,  250  sqq.;  Plains 
of  Abraham,  250;  view  from, 
2$i  sqq.;  only  walled  city,  253; 
famous  terrace,  263;  Chateau 
St.  Louis,  263;  city  of  churches, 
265;  Chateau  Frontenac,  264; 
University  of  Laval,  265;  Queen 
Victoria  gives  the  Laval  institu- 
tion the  status  of  a  university, 
265 ;  Lower  Town  again,  266  sqq.; 
in  winter,  266  sqq.;  north  bank 
above,  269  sqq. 


R 


Ramesay,  Commandant  de,  sur- 
renders Quebec  to  the  English, 
191 

Ramezay,  Governor  de,  built  Cha- 
teau de  Ramezay,  312  sqq.;  death 
of,  314 

Ramezay,  Chateau  de,  311  sqq. 

Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River, 
8;  running  the  Rapids  of  La 
Chine,  9  sqq. 

Rebellion  Losses  Bill,  211,  316 

RecoUets,  first  arrivals  in  New 
France,  96  sqq.;  removed  to 
other  fields,  83;  faithful  to 
Frontenac,  198;  at  Tadousac, 
213 

Richelieu,  Cardinal,  ambition  of, 
75  sqq.;  forms  his  company  of 
"Hundred  Associates,"  yy  sqq.; 
scheme  of  an  empire,  242; 
sepulture  of,  266 

Richelieu  River,  the  "Grand  Pass," 
2g8  sqq.;  "Iroquois  river  gate," 
299 

Richelieu  River  valley,  land  of  the 
buttercup,  297  sqq. 

Rimouski,  31 

Rivers,  importance  of,  as  boundary 
lines,  I 

Riviere  des  Prairies,  309 

Riviere  du  Loup,  227 

Roberval,  Sieur  de,  made  Vice- 
Royal  over  New  France,  42 ; 
deserted  by  Cartier,  45  sqq.; 
reaches  the  St.  Lawrence,  46; 
winter  at  Stadacon6,  47  sqq.; 
fate  of,  49 


Roebuck,  first  white  man  to  run  La 

Chine  Rapids,  334 
Rogers,  Major  Robert,  chief  of  the 

New  England  Rangers,  sent  to 

take    Fort    Pontchartrain,     197; 

raid  on  St.  Francis,  293  ;  portrait 

at  Chateau  de  Ramezay,  321 
Rohaut,    Rene    de,    established    a 

school  and  college  at  Quebec,  105 
Roquemont,    de,    in    command    of 

fleet,   78;    captured  by  English, 

79 

S 

Saguenay  River,  13,  16,  32;  ren- 
dezvous of  voyageurs,  171;  the 
dark  waters,  213;  ascent  of,  216 
sqq.;  rocky  barriers,  221;  two 
phases  of,  222 

Ste.  Anne  de  Beaupre,  old  church, 
242  sqq.;    miracles  of,  245  sqq. 

Ste.  Anne  des  Monts,  20,  31 

Ste.  Anne,  patron  saint,  242  ;  legend 
of,  243  sqq. 

Ste.  Anne,  of  Saguenay  region,  220 

Sainte  Anne,  village  of,  241 

St.  Catherine's  Bay,  32 

St.  Charles  River,  37,  254 

St.  Croix,  settlement,  56;  removal 
from,  58 

Ste.  Foye,  battlefield,  261  sqq.;  See 
"second  battle  of  the  Plains," 
monument  "To  the  Brave,"  262 

St.  Francis,  mission  of,  99;  settle- 
ment of,  271;  resort  of  Indians, 
2gi  sqq.;  springs  of,  291;  town 
of,  292 ;  river  of,  war  trail  in  days 
of  Indian  warfare,  292;  source, 
293 ;   course,  294 

St.  John,  Lake,  221 

St.  Lawrence  River,  bounds  of,  3 ; 
width  of,  3 ;  tide  of,  3 ;  bay  of, 
21;  scenery  of  lower  section,  21, 
24,  30  sqq.;  linked  to  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  147;  scenery  of  northern 
shore  above  Tadousac,  226; 
southern  shore,  226  sqq.;  sunset, 
331;   great  volume  of  water,  352 

St.  Louis,  Chateau,  built  by  Cham- 
plain,  263;    portraits  of,  263  sqq. 

St.  Louis,  Lake,  328  sqq. 

St.  Luc,  Lacorne  de,  319 

St.  Malo,  19 

St.  Ours,  Captain,  299 

St.  Peter,  Lake,  12;  fort  of,  118; 
historic  waters,  291 

St.  Regis,  settlement  of,  271;  town 
of,  332 ;  bell  and  story  of,  332  sqq. 


3^4 


Index 


Saint  Simon,  Due  de,  northern  trip, 

214 
Ste.  Th^rese,  island  of,  65 
Salaberry,  General  de,  at  battle  of 

Chateaugay  River,  207 
Sault  au  RdcoUets,  mission  of,  100 
School  for  Indian  children,  105 
Schuyler,  Fort,  297 
Seigneurial  families,  198 
Seven  Years'    War  declared,    176; 

trail  of,  299 
Sherbrooke,  290,  294 
Shipbuilding,  beginning  of,  89 
Sillery,   Noel  Brulart,  98;    mission 

of,  98;    Ursuline  sisters  at  mis- 
sion   of,    109;     historic    village, 

269  sqq. 
Social  life  in  New  France,  281  sqq. 
Society  of  Jesus.     See  Jesuits 
Society  of  Notre  Dame  de  Montreal 

organised,  1 10 
Sorel,   12;    fort  of,   296;    Captain, 

299 
Soulanges  Canal,  330  sqq. 
Split  Rock,  locks  of,  328 
Stadacon^,  16,  32;  ruin  of,  62 
Stark,  Captain  William,  at  siege  of 

Quebec,  188  sqq. 
Steamboat,  first  on  the  river,  304; 

first  to  run  the  rapids,  333  sqq. 
Sulpicians,    100;    opposed   by   the 

Government,  141 
Sunset  on  the  St.   Lawrence,  331 

sqq. 

T 

Tadousac,  5 1 ;  made  a  trading  post, 
53,  59;    captured  by  Kertk,  78; 
first    French    station,    212;    nat- 
ural   features,    212    sqq.;     situa- 
tion of,  224 
Talon,  Jean  I3aptiste,  first  Intend- 
ant,     encourages      shipbuilding, 
89;    encourages  exploration,  138 
sqq.;  patron  of  La  Salle,  139  sqq., 
256;     portrait    at    Chateau    St. 
Louis,  263 
Tecumseh,  at  Moravian  Town,  207 
Thayendanaga,  rendezvous  of,  341 
Thoreau,  quotations  from,  272,  298 
Thousand  Islands,  Indian  name  of, 
6;   park  of,  6;    scene  of  Cooper's 
novel  The  Pathfinder,  340 
Three  Rivers,  12;  founding  of,  84; 
epidemic  of,  84;  mission  of,  98; 
Indians  at,    271;    outlet    of    St. 
Maurice  River,  272  sqq.;   time  of 
Cartier's  voyage,  291 


Ticonderoga,  Fort,  297 

Tide,  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  3; 

head  of,  273 
Tonty  of  "the  silver  hand,"   136, 

144  sqq. 
Townshend,    General,    succeeds 

Wolfe  in  command  at  Quebec, 

191 
Trade  Act  of  the  Imperial  Parlia- 
ment, 210 
Trade  with  West  Indies,  176 
Treaty,  of  Utrecht,  69 ;  of  St.  Ger- 

maine-Laye,  82 ;  of  Ryswick,  1 60 ; 

of  Paris,   199;    of  Jay,  339;    of 

1783.  339 
Tri-colour  succeeds  the  fleur-de-hs 

as  standard  of  France,  82 
Trinity,  Bay,  222;  Cape,  222 


U 


Ungava  district,  23 

Union  of  the  two  provinces,  211 

United  Colonies  of  New  England, 

118 
University  of  Laval,  265 


Vaudreuil,  succeeds  Frontenac,i76; 

death    of,     176;     succeeded    by 

Beauharnois,    176;     fortune    of, 

312  sqq. 
Velasco,  26 

Verandrye,  Sieur  de  la,  311 
Verrazzano,  17 
Victoria  Bridge,  11,  302 
Victoria,  town  of,  290 
Vignan,  Nicholas,  thought  to  have 

discovered    passage   to    Cathay, 

70 
Ville-Mane  de  Montreal,  settlement 

of,     no;      dedication     of,     112; 

hospital  of,  114;    attack  of,  115; 

constant  perils  of,  120,  122 
Vikings  in  America,  26 
Vimont,  M.  Barthelemy,  prophecy 

of,  113 
Von  Schoultz,   victim  of   "patriot 

war,"  336  sqq. 
Voyageurs,  restless  energy  of,  164; 

phase  of  life,  165;    garb  of,  165; 

personal     appearance     of,     166; 

canoes   of,    166;     trips   of,    167; 

songs    of,     168;     Cadieux,     169; 

his  Lament,  170;    rendezvous  of, 

171 ;  en  route,  174 


Index 


365 


w 


Walker,   Sir  Hoveden,  loss  of  his 

fleet,  266 
War  of    181 2,   sentiment   of,    206; 

result  of,  to  Canada,  209 
War-trails  between  New  France  and 

New  England,  by  the  Ohaudiere 

River,  286;    by  the  St.  Francis, 

292;  by  the  Richelieu,  298 
Wife  of  Champlain,  70 
Wilkinson,    General,    campaign   in 

the  St.  Lawrence  valley,  207  sqq. 
William  Henry,  Fort,  297 
Windmill,  old,  at  Prescott,  335 
Winter  in  Quebec,  266  sqq. 
Winthrop,  Fitz-John,  expedition  of 

New  York  against  Montreal,  155 ; 

failure  of,  156 


Wives  needed  in  New  France,  143 
sqq. 

Wolfe,  General  James,  personality 
of,  179;  magnitude  of  his  task  in 
taking  Quebec,  181;  account  of 
his  siege  and  assault,  182  sqq.; 
story  of  reciting  Gray's  Elegy, 
184  sqq.;  death  of,  188;  sepul- 
ture at  Greenwich,  191;  monu- 
ment on  Plains  of  Abraham,  260 ; 
portrait  in  Chateau  de  Ramezay, 
320 

Wolfe's  Cove,  269 


Yamaska  River,  295 
Young,    Hon.    John,    projector 
Victoria  Bridge,  302 


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UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 

Los  Angeles 

This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 


-^i^cT  oj^inWr 


MAY 


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HAY  0 1  zooa 


Form  L9-50m-7,'54(5990)444 


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The  St.  Lawrence 
River. 


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